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Why I prefer tank transfer for curing cryptocaryon irritans (ich)

Posted 03/16/2014 at 12:35 PM by snorvich (System configuration and fish for my two tanks)
Updated 03/18/2014 at 06:33 PM by snorvich

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Originally Posted by snorvich View Post
By the way, the reason I recommend tank transfer above all other treatments for ich (cryptocaryon irritans) is because of the nature of the life cycle.

The front end of the life cycle has the least variation of time for each stage and it begins with the trophont.

The stage where the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish and that is what you see symptomatically
...
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Using Cupramine to treat cryptocaryon irritans

Posted 03/16/2014 at 12:13 PM by snorvich (System configuration and fish for my two tanks)
Updated 03/18/2014 at 06:34 PM by snorvich

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Originally Posted by snorvich View Post
For cupramine, the instructions may be a bit fuzzy. Generally folks here feel that the 0.5mg/l dose they recommend is too high and too aggressive. Try dosing at 0.35-0.40 and keep it there for the 4 week period. Also ramp up the dose slowly over 5-7 days to give the fish time to acclimate better.

Cupramine Dosing Formula / Calculator

(.381) * (strength of dose) * (gallons being treated) = mL of Cupramine to dose

Example: (.381) * (.5mg/L) * (10.5 gallons) =
...
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Rating: 2 votes, 5.00 average.

Coming from the freshwater world to a marine tank: the differences

Posted 03/15/2014 at 01:12 PM by Sk8r

Freshwater hobby to Saltwater hobby: the differences.
1. salt, obviously. The salinity level of a tank should not bounce around. Use of an ATO (autotopoff) is recommended.

2. ph becomes a fairly useless reading: track alkalinity instead. PH rises and falls during any single day. Alk is tightly locked to the calcium and magnesium in your tank. If one depletes, readings will start to fall. Keep the mg around 1200-1300, keep the calcium about 420, and the alk around 8.3-9.3 and...
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Diagnosis of Problems in Marine Fish

Posted 03/11/2014 at 12:14 PM by snorvich (System configuration and fish for my two tanks)
Updated 03/18/2014 at 06:35 PM by snorvich

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Originally Posted by snorvich View Post
Diagnosis of Problems

Tiny white dots on body or fins (looks like salt)
Research:
a) Marine Ich (parasite)


Gold, brown or rust colored patches on body
Research:
a) Marine Velvet (parasite)


Tiny black dots on body or fins
Research:
a) Black Ich (parasite)


Raised white bumps on body or fins which looks lumpy
Research:
a) Lymphocystis (viral)
b) Fungal Infection
...
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A Coralline How-to and Why

Posted 03/09/2014 at 01:16 PM by Sk8r

Coralline: what good is it, what harm is it, and do I want it? Informational.
Coralline is the purple-violet stuff on your rocks.
The bennies of having it on all your rock: a good coralline coating principally means other, more objectionable algae can't grow there efficiently. It probably (my guess) does limit efficiency of water reaching inside your rock, but if you have holey rock, you have plenty of exposure, including the part sitting on the sand, where this stuff won't grow....
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