It seems as though the preferred method is to glue the side to the back one at a time and then glue the front to both sides and then glue the bottom on...true? or would the top come before the bottom?
I like to put the front panel facing down, and glue the ends and baffles to it. That way the front seams look their best, hopefully. I flip the whole thing over and then glue all those parts to the back wall. Then I glue on the base, and typically the next day the top. (Another guy I know glues on the top (which has already been routed for the opening), then flips it over to glue on the bottom, because the top is open and air can get in and vapors out.) Here's a link to some construction images of a sump I built not too long ago:
http://melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps...chvy_sump.html
What does the term "euro-bracing" actually refer to? Is that where the top is out of one solid piece and then the openings are routed or is that were there are just strips glued along the top edges to make a brace...or is it just a catch term for any top bracing?
Typically, Euro-bracing is how four strips of glass are glued within the top of a glass tank, reinforcing the panels so they do not bow due to the water pressure. It also refers to a tank that does not have a centerbrace of any kind. I prefer to build sumps with a top flange because I like the clean appearance:
http://melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/diy/flange.html
Is there a particular brand of double sided tape you find works best? (didn't see it in your pics on your tools page melev)
I almost never use it. Maybe two times out of 106 sumps. 3M is found at Home Depot.
How do you align the framing squares when taping them? Due to the notched bottom that seems like it would be a guessing game.
The smooth area of the Speed Square (or Framing Square) maintains the pieces at a perperdicular angle, or 90 degree angle. The notch that has been cut out is to avoid the solvent wicking or bleeding under the speed square, maring the surfaces within the sump. You'd be amazed how handy that is, having that corner trimmed off.
There are times when I put a speed square on both sides of one panel, which keeps it from falling to the left or to the right. And if it happens to be an end piece, one speed square is on the acrylic holding the end up, and the other square is on the wooden work area. Because of the notch, I can press it up along side the sump, and it fits right over the base piece and pressed up against the end piece perfectly. Without being notched, I couldn't do that.
I've been playing with the idea of mounting weights, or even affixing magnets to keep the square where I need it in a more permanent way, freeing up my hands. Maybe one day I'll follow through with that plan.
What holds the vertical piece in place while you set the pins? I only have two hands... I'm guessing more double sided tape but it seems like when you pull the pins you could pull away from the tape as gravity takes over...is that were you start shimming?...
Since I'm gluing on ends and baffles, those pieces are smaller. I use the speed square to keep my piece supported, although I do let it lean slightly. I slip the pins underneath, straighten the piece and tug to make sure the pins are holding. If they need a shim, I'll insert one where necessary. Keeping my hand on the upright piece, I apply the solvent, wicking it in to the seam. After about 15 seconds or so, I stand the piece up at a true 90 degree angle, which helps push out any excess glue out of the joint. The pins are pulled and the speed squares are positioned on both sides.
I make sure to verify the piece is in the exact correct spot during the next 20 seconds, moving it up and down and side to side if it has slipped out of position.
Thanks for all the great info so far.
melev...always have loved your site...now I think it is time to break out the old video cam and post up a movie on doing one joint...would really help. Thanks again.
You are right, I should do that.