[slief]

Originally Posted by kalgra

The pump is clean as it could be. I believe the bearing is seated properly. The o-ring side up correct?

It will really suck to now have to buy a new motor block as well. I guess the thought being that the block was damaged somehow when rotor broke? I thought the electronics inside the block shut down if it detects something isnt right?

I guess it just seems a bit wierd that shaft breaks and the block goes bad at the very same time.

Thanks!
Kris

Yes, o-ring side up. What likely happened is when the rotor snapped, there was an excessive load on the block which overheated the coils. It's also possible that whatever led to the impeller shaft snapping was what caused the motor to go too and that is likely a heavy load or binding between the needle wheel and the cover or block. There is an overload protection circuit but that just causes the pump to shut itself off and try to restart when it detects too much heat in the coils. If it continues to do that, the coil inside block overheats and the block can die prematurely. That is about the only thing that causes these blocks to fail. Overload caused by friction or the impeller seizing. My guess is then the shaft sheared, the magnet was free floating inside the block and no longer centered. The block would have continued to try to spin the magnet which would have come in contact with the sides of the block or the face. That would have overloaded it. That or what ever caused the shaft to break in the first place. The good thing is that the new shaft you got should me metal. The new block if properly maintained will last 10+ years if you keep it clean inside.