Quote:
Originally Posted by SkullV
I already placed my pre-order for a pair of these fixtures, but since you said you would be answering questions today I pulled together the most relevant since your last answer  |
Thank you!!! You just saved me a lot of time:
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkullV
Tim et. al,
What kind of reliability/heat/spectrum shift testing have you done with running the XP-G at 5w? I'm mostly sold, but the prospect of the diode not dealing with the heat long term (50k hours?) is the only think still keeping me on the fence.
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There will be no reliability/heat/spectrum issues because we maintain the LED's below their maximum thermal threshold as specified by Cree. Most others do not run their LED's above 3w each not because of the danger in doing this (it's officially recognized by Cree to be acceptable for their XP-G's) but because it requires higher driving current within the drive circuitry which is difficult or expensive to design/manufacture. Running an XP-G at 3w is actually more analogous to under-driving them than running them at 5w is to over-driving them.
We designed our driver completely on our own, without any off-the-shelf integrated drive circuitry and therefore could pursue whichever route we wanted for the Radion. Building a driver that can run these higher currents also enables us to run higher current LED's such as the XM-L series, in the future.
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Originally Posted by alrha
any suggestions for a tank-mount option?
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Not at this time.
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Originally Posted by madweazl
OK, I was sitting in bed all night trying to figure out a solution for my tank. Assuming I can rotate each LED cluster 90 degrees in the hood (which looks possible from the exterior), would I be wrong in thinking I would narrow the beam pattern roughly 12" while picking up another foot length wise? It looks like each kidney shaped element has a 2' spread lengthwise and roughly 1' wide width wise? Is this a correct assumption?
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The beam from the Radion is more or less exactly square, but you could gain a small amount of coverage in the axis of your choice by rotating the fixture so both clusters are on the axis which you wish to have wider spread.
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Originally Posted by D-Nak
Also, how are the heat sinks accessed for cleaning?
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The Radion can be fully disassembled with a #2 screw driver and three allen key's however this is not required to clean the heat sink/fans. To clean the cooling chamber simply blow air with an air duster can into the heat fins from the side or up through the fan and wipe down the fan surface with a cloth filled with rubbing alcohol. We recommend periodic maintenance based on your operating environment.
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Originally Posted by LukeGI
Is the power supply for the Radion separate or is it somewhere inside the housing?
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Yes, it is housed within a separate gloss-white powder coated enclosure. The cable for the Radion is 10' long and has a removable connector which attaches to the power supply housing.
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Originally Posted by Bellagio
Can anybody answer to my questions - I can find that informations:
This PAR reading was made:
- in the air
- in the water
- what about distance between PAR meter and ligth unit?
I think that is VERY important when you compare this two brands.
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In the air, 12" from the center point of the fixture, in a black body enclosure measuring 36x36". At MACNA, at the bottom of a 60x24x24" saltwater filled aquarium, we recorded minimum PAR readings of approximately 220 using an Apogee PAR meter. Three Radions were used above this tank.
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Originally Posted by ganjero
From this picture, aren’t the heatsinks really small for that amount of LEDs? isn't that going to shorten the life of the LEDs?
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No, answered this above.