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Unread 11/26/2017, 04:09 PM   #14
lapin
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Austin
Posts: 801
Im going to chime in here and give you my thoughts. Others may not agree. With my skill level this works for me. Maybe not everyone. If I am working with 1/2" or less cast acrylic, I find the pin method works just fine. A lot of practice is needed to make good bubble free tight seams. I will say this again. A lot of practice is needed .... A bit harder the longer the seams but I can do it. I can also route up to 1/2" just fine with what I have in my garage shop. This makes for great seams. I have found I am not so good at cutting and keeping things square. Lots of guides and clamps make it possible.
Anything over 1/2" I have the plastic supplier cut and then route it on their CNC machine. Costs more but the end product is better than what I am capable of doing.
I use the pin method and weld-on #4, on everything under 1/2 inch. You can search for some treads about this. Experts cover what they have done to perfect the method. Some even have pictures of layup with shims, overlap for the fillet ect....It works. Thicker than 1/2 inch I have been using weld-on #40. Its 2 part and takes some getting use to. Pieces need to be held in place at 90 degrees with a 1mm gap, back side taped and then tilted so you can get the stuff to run into and fill the seam. Takes a lot of practice and the stuff is not cheap nor avail everywhere.
Pumps. Depends on your overflow. If its a Bean Animal I would do 1-1/2 inch drain pipes and a pump that can put out somewhere around 2500 gph. This will work if you are going to use powers heads for most of your circulation.
Sump size. Bigger is better, really depends on what in the sump, skimmer ect...and I will leave it at that.
These are just ball park things, not knowing what you plan to keep, its hard to make the call.


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