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Unread 11/23/2009, 04:58 PM   #596
Acrylics
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrosdal View Post
hey guys, hopefully some of you are still subscribed and can offer some advise. i just made my first box and remarkably it holds water.... a good thing, but i do have quite a few bubbles in the seams as welll as i had a big problem controling the flow of bonding agent as i was aplying it. i was just curious if pure methyline chloride is thinner the say weld on 3 or 4 and that is why it is coming out of my bottle so fast or if it is purely my incompotance.
No, and not incompetence, just inexperience To learn bottle & solvent control; hold the half-filled solvent bottle upright and gently squeeze the bottle until the solvent gets near the top. While still gently squeezing the bottle, turn it upside-down and lightly loosen the bottle, then gently squeeze to squirt some out, then loosen, etc. Repeat as needed to learn solvent control, hope this makes sense
Straight MC is the same viscosity as Weld-On 3 & 4 so that won't change.

Quote:
another question for you all is on polishing the seams after they are trimmed off with router. i have a few different wheels and a white and a rouge compound and they will do a great job but only after i hit it with 600grit sand paper. do you guys sand the exposed ends before polishing them or just hit it with the buffer right away? or with a flame? haven't tried the flame yet... but wasnt sure if it was the correct thing to do on a structural seam.
You can use a flame but tends to stress the material out. Sanding to 600 or so prior to buffing is normal, not doing this causes the material to heat up too much - inducing stress on the material and potential scarring from overheating the acrylic

Quote:
one more: can anyone give me their recipe for their non weld on bonding agent? all my supplier carries is methyline chloride and weld on 16 and the meth seems to be very fast and i am hoping that is why there is bubbles and excess runoff on my project. so if anyone has a measured mix that they often use with success that would be great.
Get some acetic acid (straight stuff, not photgraphic grade) and mix about 8-10% acid into straight methylene chloride. At this point you will have something equivalent to MC Bond by PolySciences and what Weld-On 5 was before they took it off the market.
BTW, this solution is far superior to Weld-On 3 & 4 IMO for practical applications. The acid will help the solvent flow in the joint much better and slow the reaction down. Don't go much beyond a 10% solution though - the joints will start to look grainy if you do.

HTH,
James


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