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Originally Posted by eonflux123
Great update! Your detail in this makes it a great read! Phosphate was the bane of my existence with my old 75 gallon and I did a similar thing that you did with pukani! When I get enough income to get back into the hobby I'm doing a super long cure on my rocks before putting them int he tank! Your display is really sick looking! The depth is really interesting! What lights do you have? If the coral are not adjusting to the lights, I believe most manufacturers have an acclimation cycle for their systems.
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eonflux123 - Thanks for the kind words. This is my second time with Pukani well third really. It was the reason I had issues with my old 180. The key is to be patient with the rock and LC is your new friend...lol. Treating with the LC and doing the 100% water changes allowed the phosphates to equalize in the water column. When they stayed a zero for a few days I did another 100% water change. I am running the Reefbreeders Photon V2 and LEDs are much brighter than they appear. I finally found my old par meter and realized the lights over the frag tank was putting out way too much par for how shallow the tank was without an adjustment period. The RBV2 do not have an acclimation cycle built in and its not like MH lights where you can just throw them in and they will be fine. I have now learned my lesson after killing off most of my Battle Corals. I made adjustments to the SPS AB+ light program and reduced everything in half. I still need to find an export of the program to see how they ramp up. Mine were set at 100% for UV, Blue, Royal Blue and 24% White, Green, and Red. I now have this at 50% and 12% respectively. But think I need to ramp up to that over the course of a hour or two set at max then ramp down. If the corals make it through I will place another other in the future but I have some more corals coming soon. This was just an expensive tough lesson to learn.