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Old 03/15/2012, 12:24 PM   #51
MHG
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Wow, and to think I was ridiculed for talking about an LFS that just tosses anemones into their tanks with nothing but floating a closed bag...I am so confused... Aclimate... Dont Acclimate...(sarcasm)


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Old 03/15/2012, 02:27 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Darth Vedder View Post
Sk8r, I have a question...

Would it make sense to test the bag water to verify sg before opening it? What I am thinking is use a syringe to pierce the bag near where it is closed off and draw a ml or so of water into the syringe, then roll down the rubber band to make sure nothing leaks out of the tiny hole

You could then spot check the sg with a refractometer

Do you see any harm in this?
A reputable LFS or online retailer will know what their salinity runs. For me at least it really doesnít matter, once you open that bag after 15 minutes of floating you are on the path of no turning back.

As soon as I open the bag I add tank water how much depends on how much is in the bag so itís a judgment call. I add tank water every 5 minutes and watch them closely to read their stress level and never let them stay in the bag longer than 30 minutes. If I see the stress level escalating rapidly 20 minutes tops for me.

I would rather take my chances let them in the tank where the water quality is healthy than leave them in the bag and run the risk of killing them that way.

Sk8r will probably have a more informative answer.


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Old 02/01/2016, 05:49 PM   #53
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i know this is an old thread, but i think it should be a sticky. this topic is often overlooked, and many beginners should have this info.


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Old 02/01/2016, 06:21 PM   #54
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Am I correct in assuming F&S is foster and smith?


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Old 02/01/2016, 06:23 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by jraker View Post
i know this is an old thread, but i think it should be a sticky. this topic is often overlooked, and many beginners should have this info.
Dude I didn't even check the dates


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Old 02/01/2016, 06:36 PM   #56
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I was doing this over a decade ago. I watched a new LFS want to acclimate everything correctly killing fish in buckets in his store and did some research. He killed some beautiful fish.


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Old 02/01/2016, 06:46 PM   #57
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I was doing this over a decade ago. I watched a new LFS want to acclimate everything correctly killing fish in buckets in his store and did some research. He killed some beautiful fish.
Doing drip shouldn't be an issue for a fish coming from 10 minutes down the road though should it? I have a drip kit that floats the bag and has a tank above that drips into the bag


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Old 02/02/2016, 07:43 PM   #58
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Wow. This has been really helpful information! I am new to the hobby and am planning on getting my first fish in the next couple days (I think). My whole intention was to put the fish into a smaller bucket and do a drip acclimation, so this awesome to know.


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Old 02/03/2016, 12:13 PM   #59
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The central purpose of acclimation, once temperature is at least moderately fixed, is salinity. If you can fix that in advance by pre-setting your quarantine tank, you've got perfect water (salt mixes try to be) at a matching salinity and an ok temperature. This will satisfy most everything the new arrival needs. And your qt, which will be dim, quiet, and clear of other fishes' smells and threats, will be a nice place to hang out and catch a fishy breath for a bit. When he finds out it's also rich in food (after a decent time to relax and get curious---THAT is the cue it's time to offer food)...he's in a good place, unbullied, unnipped, pretty secure, and fed without having to fight for it.


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge lps reef: 3 firefish, yellowhead jawfish, yellow watchman, 3 chromis, tailspot/starry blennies, pink margin fairy wrasse, mandarin, kalk, radion pro, gyre, Eshopps s-200 skimmer, basement sump.
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Old 07/01/2016, 03:36 PM   #60
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Attention Moderators!

Can someone please make this thread a sticky?

It is very important information for the life and safety of the critters we like to keep. Let's at least try to make their transition as least stressful as possible.


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Current Tank Info: Yellow/Purple, Red Head, Hoevans, Possum Wrasses, 2 Barred Rabbit, Cherub & Spotbreast Angle, Kole, Purple & Atlantic Blue Tangs, Matted Filefish, 2 Percula Clown, 4 PJ Cardinals
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Old 07/01/2016, 04:12 PM   #61
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+1 for sticky, I never thought of the PH change aspect of acclimation.


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Old 07/27/2016, 09:28 PM   #62
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I never realized you could just drop a fish into a QT as long as the salinity is good (after acclimating for temperature of course). That will definitely help in the future, thanks Sk8r!


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Old 08/08/2016, 01:11 PM   #63
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I just did a small survey to see what most refers were doing for acclimation. Most were doing very fast acclimation float bag 15 mins release into destination tank. OR they were doing various methods of adding water from destination tank cup / drip but all were doing that VERY FAST.

My Question is.. why are we are working so hard to match our salinity..when so many do freshwater dip? If a fish can survive fresh water dip... then I don't get the WHY we need to be so super exact to .001 for salinity?

I float bag 15 mins and place in QT. I do all of this in low light. In fact I almost lost a super small fish b/c the lighting was so low! I think the lights are a bigger factor then we take into account.

Neptuen


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Old 08/08/2016, 01:43 PM   #64
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Lights on a qt should be used mostly for examination of fish at least once a day if not more often. It's also considerate not to put your qt near the bass speaker of your telly.
I don't freshwater dip anything. Never have. Won't.
The 15 min float with the bag closed equalizes temperature, which is good.


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge lps reef: 3 firefish, yellowhead jawfish, yellow watchman, 3 chromis, tailspot/starry blennies, pink margin fairy wrasse, mandarin, kalk, radion pro, gyre, Eshopps s-200 skimmer, basement sump.
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Old 08/10/2016, 03:06 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neptune 555 View Post

My Question is.. why are we are working so hard to match our salinity..when so many do freshwater dip? If a fish can survive fresh water dip... then I don't get the WHY we need to be so super exact to .001 for salinity?

Neptuen
Smaller organisms that aren't as complicated don't have a cellular structure that can survive the different specific gravity and rupture. It's a great, non-chemical way to remove many lower level organisms.

It's still hard on the fish, just not as hard as other effective options.

Osmotic shock happens rapidly in lower level organisms, and slower in higher organisms. Hence a quick dip. It's still happening to the fish though.

Quote:
In all fish species osmoregulation developed in a way that enabled them to maintain the proper balance of salt and water in the water with chemical composition found in their natural habitat. If osmoregulation is disturbed due to adverse conditions (osmotic stress) or a sudden change in the chemical composition of water (osmotic shock), fish might not be able to physiologically cope with it.

Chronic osmotic stress can eventually result in fish’s death and osmotic shock can cause death very quickly.



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Old 08/11/2016, 10:13 AM   #66
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Would a drip still be good if you test the bag water and theres no sign of ammonia?



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Old 08/11/2016, 01:55 PM   #67
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Would a drip still be good if you test the bag water and theres no sign of ammonia?
Why would you want to drip anyway, when all you have to do is match salinity and acclimate for temp.


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180 gallon, 30 gallon sump, 3 250W Radiums,4 ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Reef Octopus CaRx

Current Tank Info: Yellow/Purple, Red Head, Hoevans, Possum Wrasses, 2 Barred Rabbit, Cherub & Spotbreast Angle, Kole, Purple & Atlantic Blue Tangs, Matted Filefish, 2 Percula Clown, 4 PJ Cardinals
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