|
07/25/2017, 10:10 AM | #9451 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 130
|
Quote:
|
|
07/25/2017, 06:58 PM | #9452 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: AWOL
Posts: 12,013
|
Quote:
__________________
"Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor) Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef |
|
07/25/2017, 07:42 PM | #9453 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 15
|
Hi guys,
Does anyone have any plans or measurements for a 5x2x2 using a coast to coast external overflow with BA to sump. Specifically the overflow and BA specs. I am getting a custom tank built soon and no one in my local area knows what a BA is, whenever I ask all I get is a blank look with a really confused look on their faces and they think I'm insane! Then they just try to sell me an off the shelf tank. So I really need to give a tank builder plans of exactly what I need so they can build the tank. Is there anything around that I can use to give my tank builder? |
07/26/2017, 08:09 PM | #9454 | ||||
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 186
|
Quote:
Quote:
When the cross sectional area of a 1.5" pipe is more than double that of a 1" pipe, I'm more than doubling the amount of blockage it would take to have a problem. You're counting number of pipes, instead of figuring how much area would have to be blocked. More isn't necessarily better. Quote:
Quote:
"The design criteria: 1) Dead Silent 2) Set and Forget 3) Limit Bubbles in Sump 4) Failsafe to Prevent Floods 5) Easy to Clean if Needed" I have achieved all of these. Testing of my setup has proven it works. It works silently. My intent was never to mimic somebody else, but make something that worked the way *I* wanted it to, and for my needs. BTW, if you completely closed your siphon line (simulating a 100% blockage), and the open channel took all the flow, it wouldn't keep a siphon for long. If it did, we'd not need a valve in the siphon line to keep it full. |
||||
07/28/2017, 04:07 PM | #9455 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 9
|
BeanAnimal drain with long horizontal run
Just checking to see if anyone has experience with a BeanAnimal drain to basement sump with a long horizontal run.
I am shooting for 1400-1500 GPH flow with 12' vertical drop and 27' horizontal. Total of 3-90's (using sweeps) to get from overflow to sump. I am planning on using 1-1/2" pipe, about a 3-4" slope towards the sump on the horizontal section and gate valve at the sump. Any thoughts or experiences out there with a setup close to this? Thanks
__________________
Bill Current Tank Info: 300 G African Cichlids, 180 Reef in works |
07/29/2017, 04:30 PM | #9456 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: AWOL
Posts: 12,013
|
Quote:
If the "horizontal run" is angled down, there is little likelihood that there would be a problem. However, the friction losses in such a long run, will reduce the flow capacity of the drain line significantly.
__________________
"Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor) Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef |
|
07/29/2017, 04:42 PM | #9457 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Calabasas, CA
Posts: 1,501
|
Quote:
You can get the flow you want with that setup, but if you can increase the size of the drain pipe to 2", you'll be better off in the long run since biofouling will slow it down a bit over time. I have a 30' horizontal run with 5' of drop. Using 2" drain pipe with 6 sweep els. I have plenty of flow to support 1500 gph +. I run 1300 gph (measured with the apex flow meter) and have the drain valve closed more than 1/4 of the way. When I first set up my tank I ran 1.5" drain pipe and within a year it was having a hard time keeping up with the return pump. My guess is that it was draining around 1200 gph max. Your 12' of drop will help substantially and you probably will get away with 1.5" pipe, but I'd go with the 2" for the extra headroom.
__________________
Current tank: 340g AGE peninsula |
|
07/29/2017, 07:58 PM | #9458 | ||||||
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: AWOL
Posts: 12,013
|
Quote:
Quote:
"discrete" 2. consisting of or characterized by distinct or individual parts; discontinuous. Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Again, your system short-circuits the first safety feature, because the dry emergency can only function as an open channel, until water level is high enough to stop the flow of air into both the dry emergency and open channel. It violates the basic safety rule for running siphons: never run a siphon without a dry emergency, exactly in the same way a Herbie with a so called "trickle drain" does. In the end that is all you really have. As for your dismissal of the single failure point in your system: they said the Titanic could not sink. What were the odds? The engineering was not well thought out enough, and the Titanic is sitting at the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean with 1200 souls aboard, 300 pulled from the water the next day. What were the odds of the Challenger exploding shortly after launch, considering the multitude of redundant fail safe/backup systems used? It is great it works for you; and it is great that it meets your specifications. However, for this thread, it does not meet the specifications; and I have explained why twice now. Bean, myself, and a couple others, have explained it at least a hundred times prior to this. This thread is too assist those wishing to set up a BA system the correct way, and such discussions of system that deviate far from the BA system, only serve to complicate the topic for those that are unfamiliar, and those that know just enough to be "dangerous."
__________________
"Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor) Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef |
||||||
08/09/2017, 05:21 AM | #9459 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 15
|
So i've come up with a rough design for my new build.
Can one of the experts here that has done this before take a quick look and see if it looks OK or if something is wrong with it. I'm open to ideas and improvements. I'd rather get it right the first time as it can be expensive making changes after. Thanks in advance! Last edited by Misled; 03/25/2018 at 07:29 PM. |
08/09/2017, 05:23 AM | #9460 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 15
|
Sorry for the sideways picture, for some reason it shows up portrait in photobucket but when I post here it ends up sideways!
|
08/09/2017, 05:38 AM | #9461 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 15
|
Last edited by Misled; 03/25/2018 at 07:30 PM. |
08/09/2017, 08:37 AM | #9462 |
Either busy or sleeping
|
Photobucket wants you to pay $400/year to be able to hotlink pics here. Use something else, they suck round objects that dangle between a man's legs now.
__________________
Algae Scrubber Basics!!! GOOGLE "algaescrubber zoho" General Interest Forums --> Advanced Topics --> Algae Scrubber Basics (sticky) --> POSTS #3251-64 (Basics), #5206 (Cleaning), #6884 (LEDs), #729 |
08/09/2017, 08:16 PM | #9463 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 15
|
Lets try this again! Ill get there eventually.
Any comments on the design would be greatly appreciated! |
08/11/2017, 07:22 PM | #9464 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 186
|
Quote:
|
|
08/15/2017, 09:18 PM | #9465 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 15
|
Anyone have any comments or suggestions on what I have posted above?
|
08/15/2017, 11:57 PM | #9466 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 166
|
Quote:
If that is the case, that doesn't sound too great. Whilst, the water will get into the external overflow box, what about wandering fish and whatnot? That is a critical function of the weirs on the overflow boxes. Sure, you will get maximum surface skimming, but it would come at that cost. |
|
08/20/2017, 05:22 PM | #9467 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Delaware
Posts: 921
|
Hey gang, my setup as is, is doing great and working great. I am about to upgrade my sump to one with 1" inlets. I am running 1.5". I could do a 1.5 to 1" reducer, would that impact performance or will I need to redo my drains to all 1"?
__________________
[URL=http://www.aquaticlog.com/aquariums/pdiehm/2][IMG]http://images.aquaticlog.com/aquarium/aquarium14573.png[/IMG][/URL] |
08/21/2017, 01:18 AM | #9468 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 15
|
Quote:
I do plan to put some kind of grill along the entire length to stop wandering fish from getting in the overflow, I just didn't show that. Mainly wanting advise on the overflow dimensions and the like |
|
08/25/2017, 10:38 PM | #9469 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 16
|
Hello everyone....finally got my 275 gallon half-cylinder tank in a few weeks back and have all the plumbing done...complete with the BeanAnimal design.
I can't seem to eliminate the bubbles coming out the 1.5" drain pipes in the sump. All the pipes are submerged 1" in the sump...and I even drilled small holes in the ends of the pipe just below the surface as many have suggested. Plenty of water coming out the pipes....but still lots of bubbles coming out of the full siphon pipe and the open channel pipe in the sump. Have fine-tuned the full siphon line to maintain the water level in the overflow box at about the middle of the down-turned elbows...but still lots of bubbles? Any ideas? I do see some bubbles in the overflow box....but not sure where those are coming from? Should the 90 elbows be turned at an angle vs. straight down? Thanks |
08/26/2017, 09:54 AM | #9470 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 1
|
Hi everyone!
For the past few years I've been using a MAME overflow on my tank. It looks beautiful and works well but is a major pain to clean. For my next tank I wanted to go with some plumbing with less maintenance and breakable parts and the Bean Animal overflow looked perfect =) Trouble is, I have no clue what I'm doing. I've started reading the thread but everything is in inches and gallons and a lot of pictures are missing, which makes it even more confusing. My LFS only uses Herbie style overflows and can't advise but is quite curious on how this one will do. I feel a bit bad for not having read the entire thread so if my questions were answered I would also appreciate a link. Regarding the tank: I attached a Sketchup picture. It will be 130cm x 30cm x 25cm x 1 cm thick, rimless with an internal overflow on the short (30cm) side. I would like to push ~2000 liters per hour through the display with the return on the far side hidden by rock. Regarding the plumbing diameters I though I would stick to the original design with 25 mm (1''). Quite a few people use a 38mm to 25mm adapter for the tubing inside the aquarium, I assume to maximize weir area. I would also go with that. My questions are:
I hope I didn't forget anything ; ) Cheers Reefus |
08/26/2017, 10:07 AM | #9471 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 16
|
Update. I drilled the air holes in the ends of the drain pipes slightly "above" the water level in the sump...as I read that would be better than having the holes below the surface. The bubbles in the sump did NOT go away. Should the holes be above or below the water surface to release the air bubbles?
I then read where the Open Channel drain should be a 3/4" or so above the Full Siphon....so I cut 3/4" off the end of the Open Channel elbow fitting to raise the opening a bit relative to the opening in the Full Siphon elbow. The bubbles in the sump still did NOT go away. So....can't figure out where the bubbles are coming from and how to eliminate them....so I can truly get a full siphon going? Any suggestions? No air or water leaks that I can see. The water dropping into the overflow box is causing a few bubbles.....but nothing like what's coming out of the ends of both the Full Siphon and Open Channel pipes in the sump? Just to experiment, I even close the Open Channel drain altogether and full throttled the Full Siphon Gate Valve....but bubbles continued to wage war into the sump? Regardless, even though I obviously don't have a full siphon going, even at half throttle on the Full Siphon Gate Valve....the system is keeping up with the return pump, the water level in the OverFlow Box stays pretty constant at a little above midpoint of the elbows....and it's all relatively quiet. So does it really matter that I have bubbles coming through the drain pipes in the sump....especially since the sump is on the other side of the wall from the DT? Thanks again....would appreciate any advice or suggestions any of you may have. Make it a Blessed Day! |
08/27/2017, 08:59 AM | #9472 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 527
|
Quote:
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
__________________
Build http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2638892 Parameters: Temp 77-79degF, Specific Gravity 1.023-1.024, PH 8.1-8.4, Alk 8-12, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, Phosphate <.2, Calc 3 Current Tank Info: Custom Oak Stand | 75G FO Display | 40G Breeder Sump | MarinePure Ceramic Media Plate | Eshopps x-120 skimmer | Mag9 Return | Aqua Ultraviolet Advantage 2000+ 15w |
|
08/27/2017, 12:27 PM | #9473 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 16
|
Yes, I used Teflon tape on the threaded cap that is at the top of the tee. There is no air line on the full siphon, right? No water leaks....so can't imagine where the bubbles are coming from out the other end of the full siphon line? Could something in the open channel drain be causing bubbles in the full siphon drain line...even though they are not "connected" at all? Should the drilled holes at the end of the full siphon pipe in the sump be above or below the water surface level?
I also have bubbles coming out of the open channel line...but I guess that's expected as that does have the air line attached to the cap? When I got up this morning, the water level in the overflow box was going up & down again....with lots of gurgling noise. So, I guess I do need to solve this problem. Thanks again |
08/27/2017, 07:38 PM | #9474 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 186
|
The siphon is only in the area ABOVE the valve. You will sometimes just have some air in the line below it because there is air in there. Drilling a hole above water level will just allow it to get more air in there, not let it out.
There really isn't much of a fix to the problem, but if your siphon valve is set properly, you just have to wait and the air will eventually work its way out, because you'll not be allowing any in it. IOW...if air is going in, it has to come out. If air is going out, and none is in, it means less inside. This is one reason people usually run the pipes down INTO their sump water, because it makes sure no air can get UP inside the siphon tube. |
08/27/2017, 08:41 PM | #9475 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 16
|
Thanks again guys! Could you explain what you mean by "the siphon is only in the area above the valve? You mean above the gate valve?
Given that I have the tee capped off tightly...and no water leaks.....just can't understand where the bubbles are coming from? Could it just be the pure force of the water flowing into the sump is causing the bubbles in the sump? Thanks again for your suggestions. I think I'll go back to using the pipes with holes just BELOW the surface vs. above the surface! |
Tags |
beananimal, plumbing |
Thread Tools | |
|
|