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Old 11/30/2017, 01:24 AM   #1
cellingson
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Join Date: Apr 2015
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60g rimless cube build

Hey all

Thought I would try and post my tank build on here. Extremely grateful to this site and all the wealth of information I have used.

New at this so please forgive any boredom you may incur.

Here is the tank. Previously was a planted discus tank. But much too small. Grew out 5 Rafflesia to about 6" and sold them. I just recently moved to Alaska and thought I would try my hand at saltwater with this tank. As a teenager (20 years ago) I had a small 55g saltwater tank that I sold when I went to college. Haven't experienced with saltwater since. Things have changed a lot since then.


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Old 11/30/2017, 01:29 AM   #2
cellingson
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Filtration

I was thinking a small sump with filter socks, protein skimmer, refugime, and return pump.

Attached is a 1/4 acrylic sump I had made here by a plastics guy. 15WX22LX16H. As you can see from the pic some of the welds aren't perfect. Seems like a few too many bubbles. Not sure how this will affect integrity of the joints. I was thinking that since the sump will have baffles that it won't be a huge deal. Thoughts?


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Old 11/30/2017, 07:14 AM   #3
Rover88
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Location: New Brunswick, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cellingson View Post
I was thinking a small sump with filter socks, protein skimmer, refugime, and return pump.

Attached is a 1/4 acrylic sump I had made here by a plastics guy. 15WX22LX16H. As you can see from the pic some of the welds aren't perfect. Seems like a few too many bubbles. Not sure how this will affect integrity of the joints. I was thinking that since the sump will have baffles that it won't be a huge deal. Thoughts?
Never mess around with anything in your house holding that much water! I'd recommend taking it outside (if you have an outside you can, if not someone you trusts place/yard?) and filling it with water, leaving overnight. Just for my peace of mind, I'd have to do that. :P


As for the tank setup, looks good so far!

There are tons of resources on the site about sump setups and placements. Don't skimp on your skimmer/equipment, make sure to get the right stuff the first time around. I made a mistake buying inexpensive powerheads and wound up buying better ones later. I keep the cheapo ones around for stirring up my water mix.


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Old 11/30/2017, 06:54 PM   #4
cellingson
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Thanks for the feedback Rover.

I designed my sump. See attached drawing. The exterior was built "professionally". I thought I would add the baffles myself to try and save money. Total cost was $350. Plus it was custom made to maximize space under my tank.


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Old 11/30/2017, 06:57 PM   #5
cellingson
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Adding the baffles. Used Weldon 3.

I watched a few Youtube videos and got some instruction from a friend. But much harder then it looked.


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Old 12/01/2017, 01:10 PM   #6
cellingson
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Purchased this large piece of acrylic from Amazon to make my internal overflow box and weir.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Great product and couldn't find a better price. Cut well and glued nicely.

After it arrived I decided to change things up a bit on my sump. Rearranged so that I could have two filter socks and figured I would use left over pieces from this piece of acrylic to adjust the sump


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Old 12/01/2017, 01:12 PM   #7
cellingson
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Built pictures.


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Old 12/01/2017, 01:26 PM   #8
cellingson
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I called around to a couple of local acrylic guys to get a quote on cutting a piece of acrylic for me with two holes in a piece of pre cut acrylic to fit my filter socks. $40-50 for just the holes. Which sounded crazy to me.

After some google search I tried using a dremel.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=908525
Some posters said it wouldn't work other said it would.

I thought I would give it a try.

I used the hole cutting guide attachment.
Shownn here: (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-C...FZJmfgoddRAJ-A)

First I drilled a hole in the center of the desired circle and inserted the cutting guide pivot. Then I drilled a hole at the edge of the circle. The pivot set inside the center of the circle and the drill bit in the hole at the edge. Finally I cut swiveling around at the pivot. I set the depth of the dremel to go halfway through the 1/4" acrylic on the first pass. Then increased the depth and finished the cut on the second pass. The speed was set at 15000rpm and I pushed it through the acrylic to keep it from staying in one spot too long and causing it to melt. Worked awesome! The holes were rough but sanded them down.


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Old 12/01/2017, 01:32 PM   #9
cellingson
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For some reason couldn't get attachments to upload on earlier post.

Here is a second attempt.


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Old 12/01/2017, 01:38 PM   #10
cellingson
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Here is the weir I cut.

I followed this guys table saw techniques.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZofJWyG7G_c


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Old 12/03/2017, 11:28 PM   #11
cellingson
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Drilled the tank. First time and didn't go to bad.

Picked up a set of drill bits on Amazon and watched a few videos on how to drill a tank first. Also tried a number of times on an old 10 gallon to make sure I got it right.

Only thing I would change is have someone constantly adding clear water to the area, as the glass cuts it clouds the water and you lose your landmarks.

Will plumb for the bean animal overflow. THANKS beananimal for your freely giving contributions to the hobby.


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Old 12/03/2017, 11:33 PM   #12
cellingson
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Bought this skimmer off Amazon. Bubble Magnus 5. Great reviews
It seemed like the best option for my system, and the footprint was small, which I really liked.

Also decided on the Jebao CT 4000. Had generous reviews, great output over 1000 gph, was a quiet DC pump, and super low 30W power usage. Since this pump will be running 24-7 that was important for me. And price range was reasonable. I'll let you know how it rolls out when I am finally using it.


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Old 12/07/2017, 07:12 PM   #13
cellingson
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Completed the sump with exception of adding on the filter sock piece. Everything fits in it as planned.


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Old 12/07/2017, 07:17 PM   #14
cellingson
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After checking for leaks there were quite a few noted between baffles. The welding of acrylic is much trickier then I thought it would be. I purchased some Weldon 16 and cut 1/4" dowls. I then glued/welded these in each of the corners. I am happy to say using the Weldon 16 is much easier then the Weldon 3.

For anyone looking to do this. With the weldon 16 you really need to get the right pressure. Too much pressure and all the glue gets pushed out. To little pressure and there is too much glue in the joint and when the glue evaporates it leaves air pockets. If you can use clamps that are gently nudged tight this works the best. The glue does fill in wider gaps easily.


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Old 12/07/2017, 07:20 PM   #15
cellingson
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No leaks after the extra support was placed. Now to finish the sump by adding the last piece where the filter socks will be placed.

Using the weldon 16 and dowls along the edges I was able to achieve leak proof placement.


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Old 12/07/2017, 07:25 PM   #16
cellingson
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The filter socks were sitting on the acrylic and a good of water was running under the plastic rim and bypassing the sock filtration. More then I wanted. So I used my dremel and slowly carved out a rim around the hole so that the sock would sit lower then the acrylic. After doing this the sock fit much lower and less water bypassed the sock. One of my rims was so snug that the sock actually snaps into place, no leak on this side. The other is a little looser and this is the only side that allows any water to bypass the filter sock.


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Old 12/07/2017, 07:28 PM   #17
cellingson
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Sump complete and fits under the 60g perfectly. The CO2 tank and regulator will be used for my calcium reactor. I need to find one that is low profile footprint or I will have to add an in sump one.

No onto weir placement and plumbing


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Old 12/09/2017, 08:34 PM   #18
cellingson
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Finished and installed the internal overflow box.

The box was made with two pieces of acrylic and I planned for it to run the entire length of the tank. The pieces of acrylic were welded together using weldon 16. And the final internal box secured in place with aquarium silicone.

The internal overflow box was made to be as low profile as possible. Which meant that the elbows inserting into the bulk heads are not removable from the box. May regret that decision later.


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