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Unread 02/15/2018, 04:28 PM   #151
HBtank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckeye Hydro View Post
Regardless of the type of di carts used, inline TDS meters are typically up to the task - much more so than the color indicator.

Also - you'd want a mixed bed after a cation and anion cart.

Russ
Yeah, I am thinking I would have to go with a third mixed-bed cart (in any extended life or special setup) in order to satisfy my need for a fail safe while also following the guidelines for replacement.

Although I had assumed the "ammonia and silica trap cartridges" were not the same as "anion/cation cartridges" when paired together (in terms of needing a mixed bed after)? I thought a mixed bed was only needed if it was a two stage DI system with one of those "trap" carts?


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80g Aiptasia dominated reef tank.. with fish and now a bunch of berghia!

Current Tank Info: 80g tank, re-starting a reef after a zoanthid nudibranch plauge, followed by months of steady and unstoppable STN/RTN, crashed; stayed FOWLR for a couple years, currently an aiptasia dominated reef tank with fishies and BERGHIA

Last edited by HBtank; 02/15/2018 at 04:35 PM.
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Unread 02/15/2018, 09:27 PM   #152
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So I tested my system, and got these results:
  • TAP: 198 ppm (COM100)
  • DI IN: 3.8 ppm (COM100); 2.0-3.0 ppm (in-line)
  • DI OUT: 0.9 ppm (COM100); 0.0 ppm (in-line)
  • 2nd DI Out: 0.1-0.2 ppm (COM100)
And you can see what my DI looks like, one is fully spent, the second 1/4 of the bottom.



Do in-line meters typically show values below, but close to 0? Basically the numbers show what I have seen, I actually let it go longer than usual. The DI is changed in color but not >1.0 on the output. Maybe all my meters are wrong, but it certainly makes me wary of relying on them.


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80g Aiptasia dominated reef tank.. with fish and now a bunch of berghia!

Current Tank Info: 80g tank, re-starting a reef after a zoanthid nudibranch plauge, followed by months of steady and unstoppable STN/RTN, crashed; stayed FOWLR for a couple years, currently an aiptasia dominated reef tank with fishies and BERGHIA
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Unread 02/15/2018, 09:48 PM   #153
tkeracer619
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Originally Posted by HBtank View Post

Almost feels like with specific order DI stages I would want a third simple mixed bed DI stage as as a fail safe.
I actually use a eheim 1260 pump in my RODI storage container to feed a closed loop through a non color indicating Mixed Bed cart. It lasts for a really long time, maybe 6 months. The eheim also pressurizes a RODI faucet on my shop sink


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Unread 02/15/2018, 10:09 PM   #154
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I actually use a eheim 1260 pump in my RODI storage container to feed a closed loop through a non color indicating Mixed Bed cart. It lasts for a really long time, maybe 6 months. The eheim also pressurizes a RODI faucet on my shop sink
That's awesome. Again I appreciate this thread!

Part of my re-boot I am glad I revisited, I think I had my carbon/chlorine filtration down (verified tonight with strips) but instead holes in my DI setup/maintenance that really are not hard or expensive to fix and add redundancy for (and actually save in the long run).


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80g Aiptasia dominated reef tank.. with fish and now a bunch of berghia!

Current Tank Info: 80g tank, re-starting a reef after a zoanthid nudibranch plauge, followed by months of steady and unstoppable STN/RTN, crashed; stayed FOWLR for a couple years, currently an aiptasia dominated reef tank with fishies and BERGHIA
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Unread 02/15/2018, 10:23 PM   #155
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You're welcome

I really like being able to turn on the TDS meter on the storage tank and seeing that 0.


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Unread 02/16/2018, 04:53 AM   #156
Buckeye Hydro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HBtank View Post
So I tested my system, and got these results:
  • TAP: 198 ppm (COM100)
  • DI IN: 3.8 ppm (COM100); 2.0-3.0 ppm (in-line)
  • DI OUT: 0.9 ppm (COM100); 0.0 ppm (in-line)
  • 2nd DI Out: 0.1-0.2 ppm (COM100)
And you can see what my DI looks like, one is fully spent, the second 1/4 of the bottom.
Interesting, and unusual.



Quote:
Do in-line meters typically show values below, but close to 0? Basically the numbers show what I have seen, I actually let it go longer than usual. The DI is changed in color but not >1.0 on the output. Maybe all my meters are wrong, but it certainly makes me wary of relying on them.
Assuming your COM100 is correct, then I think your test shows that the inline meter is pretty much on the money as well.

Russ


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Unread 02/16/2018, 04:55 AM   #157
Buckeye Hydro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkeracer619 View Post
I actually use a eheim 1260 pump in my RODI storage container to feed a closed loop through a non color indicating Mixed Bed cart. It lasts for a really long time, maybe 6 months. The eheim also pressurizes a RODI faucet on my shop sink
Reminds me of the UV loop we put on commercial storage tanks holding RO water.


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Unread 02/16/2018, 02:08 PM   #158
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I'm glad this thread popped back up. I'm about to set up a tank and water filtration.

The water here is very hard, between 350 and 950 ppm depending on the well the city is drawing from. That will give me RO water at between 7 and 20 ppm out of the RO with a 98% membrane.

At the bottom end, I don't think a DI stage will deplete very quickly, but I know from past experience that at the high end I won't get much more than 30 gallons out of a mixed bead cartridge.

I'm in an apartment, so a softener to precondition is not really an option. It sounds like what I need is a first stage 'rough' DI like the Spectrapure Mega MaxCap DI Cartridge. Are these newer resins really that much better? Is would appear you are getting 3.5 times the filtering at 2.5 times the price. That is IF they perform as advertised.

The other thing I can do is go to a 99? high rejection rate membrane I guess.


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Unread 02/16/2018, 02:40 PM   #159
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Standard Filmtec 75's have been spec'ed at 99% rejection for the last few years.


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Unread 02/16/2018, 02:42 PM   #160
Buckeye Hydro
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You'll want to add pressure to deal with high tds as well. At least 1 psi per 100 ppm over 250 ppm.

If your water is really that bad, are you not also in the market for a whole house system?


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Unread 02/16/2018, 03:09 PM   #161
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Standard Filmtec 75's have been spec'ed at 99% rejection for the last few years.
Interesting. I picked up a used BRS unit along with the tank. Not sure if it is a 75 or 95gpd membrane or what manufacturer it is. The membrane is supposed to be less than a year old. I`ll need to make a batch of water to see what shape it`s in.

As for whole house, that`s hard to do in an apartment.


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Unread 02/16/2018, 07:47 PM   #162
tkeracer619
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Standard Filmtec 75's have been spec'ed at 99% rejection for the last few years.
I thought they ranged from 96-99%. The ones I bought before my current 99ers I purchased from another sponsor and one was 96%, the other was 98%.

It was likely 3.5 - 4 years ago they were purchased.


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Unread 05/24/2018, 01:00 AM   #163
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The Chlorplus 20BB filter worked so well for my tank that I decided to get a bigger one for the wifey and I...

2.5 cubic ft of catalytic carbon and 48,000 grain water softener. Auto backwashes and measures water flow through unit/total gallons between recharge. This thing is clutch.


Straight from every tap in the house



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Unread 06/17/2018, 10:09 PM   #164
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Tkeracer - where did you get that setup?


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Unread 08/23/2018, 03:04 PM   #165
tkeracer619
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Tkeracer - where did you get that setup?
Sorry, some reason it didn't tell me someone responded. I got it from discountwatersofteners.com. It's a genesis high flow system. 2.5cuft catalytic carbon. Now having it a few months I couldn't go back, i'd defend that thing with my life haha.


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Unread 08/28/2018, 11:36 AM   #166
tkeracer619
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Just a heads up, if you asked a question on amazon today about this filter... Don't purchase these filters from amazon. Fresh water systems has the chlorplus20bb for $100 vs amazons $150.


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