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Old 06/22/2018, 01:29 AM   #776
PacSun Service
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don.helsted View Post
Jumping in on the wagon here just received an ac mini for my red sea max E260 looking forward to setting it up. ill hope to set it up monday as im going away for the weekend and have no change of controlling it over the weekend so guessing its best to wait.

ill keep you updated here.

ill switch from balling how would u do it totally stop it and start reactor or gradually decrease balling and increase reactor if needed ?

my thought where to start at 100 ml and then decrease balling to it stable and then raise ml a day to balling is faded out.
Hello

Yes, best is to start Calcium reactor at low doses of effluent and increase it slowly, together with decrease balling dosing untill You complete will stop dosing it.

Best regards
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Old 07/03/2018, 10:21 AM   #777
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Hello,
New to this thread but I have been reading up the past few days. Based on this thread and by corresponding with Przemyslaw, I will be purchasing the AC Mini with DC1. Would like to pulse the community on what type of media you are using and what regulator. I know the calc feeder pro does not need a solenoid for the regulator but any recommendations would be appreciated. Many thanks in advance.


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Old 07/04/2018, 09:41 AM   #778
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Hello to all.
I have recently purchased a Pacific Sun Calcfeeder pro AC3 calcium reactor.
After looking online for the Calcfeeder pro AC3 I found that there are no places to buy this model (AC3) anywhere in North America. I found a place (in Florida but I don't recall the name) that sells AC1 and AC2 models but anything larger had to be ordered from Pacific Sun EU. I was a little hesitant but placed my order but then went ahead and paid with a bank certified money transfer. Within about a week or so they sent me the reactor. During the wait time they were always easy to contact and promptly responded to all of my messages. The reactor was shipped with Fedex and I was given a tracking number. They told me to make sure that a Fedex employee was present at the time of opening, so I found it was easiest to request the package be held at the Fedex depot and I could pick it up at my convenience. Unfortunately, when the package was opened it was clear that one of the acrylic tubes connecting the two reactor chambers broke during shipping. I immediately contacted Pacific Sun to let them know about the damage and they responded to me within a matter of a few minutes, and told me they will send a replacement reactor. Within a few days they did send a replacement. Unfortunately, the new reactor also had the same issue with a cracked connecting pipe! To make a long story shorter THIS HAPPENED FOUR TIMES!!! Each time they immediately responded to me and shipped out a new reactor, and apart from my initial purchase payment they did not ask for any more cash. The reactors are well built and certainly have a solid feel, but I think that during the long trek from Poland to Canada the reactor was jostled enough to break the acrylic pipes. Each and every time however Pacific Sun quickly responded to my message. In my opinion the reactor is well built but Pacific Sun had to learn how to properly package fairly large acrylic equipment. They did learn their lesson because the 5th time the whole package came so bunddled in bubble wrap, styrofoam and plastic wrap that it literally took me a half hour to unwrap everything...but this time (FIFTH!!!) everything was A-ok. They told me that they never had any trouble like this shipping across Europe! In any case after so many attempts I think they have figured out the formula for proper packaging to North America! During this whole ordeal they were always extremely responsive to any and all messages from me. They seemed to have a bit of a learning curve regarding secure packaging but their customer service compared to any company anywhere has been second to none.
This is all for now but when I get the reactor set up and going I'll post my experience.


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Old 07/08/2018, 10:08 AM   #779
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email service now about this - just posting a warning for everyone else.

For about two months now - I've noticed a bit of water at the base of my reactor (AC4). It's been nothing but a super slow drip somewhere around the aquabee pump. It was slow enough that a small hand towel placed between the base and the true union ball valve replaced every 4 weeks or so could soak up the leaking water and evaporate before it got to my wood base.

Came home yesterday to find a very small puddle of water on the ground next to the aquarium / reactor. The small hand towel was soaked through.

Tore down the reactor this morning - figuring it was leaking around the threads of the fittings connecting the pump to the true union ball valve. To my surprise - there's no treatment applied to the threads of the fittings that screw into the aquabee. Only an o-ring to prevent leaks. With the o-ring in place - I applied a generous application of Rectoseal thread sealant to the threads and was screwing everything back down.

The slip fitting for the union portion of the true union ball valve let go. It wasn't attached via any type of sealant or gluing that I could tell. it was simply a friction fit. I did the plumber's thing then - applied the purple primer to both ends of the fittings and solvent weld to both ends of the fitting. Whatever this material is - it doesn't appear to be PVC - the solvent weld is not taking hold. I'll let it stand for a few hours and see what happens.

Here are some pics of the area where it was leaking and the water test after trying to make the repairs myself:









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Old 07/08/2018, 10:47 AM   #780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobusc83 View Post
Hello,
New to this thread but I have been reading up the past few days. Based on this thread and by corresponding with Przemyslaw, I will be purchasing the AC Mini with DC1. Would like to pulse the community on what type of media you are using and what regulator. I know the calc feeder pro does not need a solenoid for the regulator but any recommendations would be appreciated. Many thanks in advance.
I use this:
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/rebor...e-fishies.html

and for the regulator: I bought a brand new one of these:
matheson 3810A Series Dual-Stage High-Purity Regulator. (Delivery pressure: 0-50 psig, Inlet connection: 320 CGA, Cross Purge: No)
I used the parts from a regulator I bought from AlanLe (in the regulator thread) that had died on me.

The burkett solenoid I had from that thing AlanLe built for me works with the electronics from the Pac Sun Solenoid. Not all solenoids work with the Pac Sun electronics portion - so your mileage may vary. I found this to be more ideal - since I now have a regulator that doesn't need a secondary power unit to power a secondary solenoid on the regulator and the burkett fittings are better than pac sun's mechanical solenoid.


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Old 07/08/2018, 04:28 PM   #781
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Thanks for the info. I got a two stage regulator that I purchased from a person who makes regulators for a hobby through ebay that was recommended by someone.
On a different note, how is everyone faring with their reactor?


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Old 07/09/2018, 03:49 AM   #782
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@ Ted_C
Hello

This fittings are not glued to pump to allow to take out pump (for cleaning or replace). This is orginal connection made by Aquabee and o-ring should seal it properly, we could send You new o-rings as old one could be damaged somehow. You can also check that there is no dirt on o-ring, even grain of sand could cause leak when it gets between o-ring and thread on pump.

Best regards
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Old 07/10/2018, 08:26 AM   #783
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@ Ted_C
This fittings are not glued to pump to allow to take out pump (for cleaning or replace). This is orginal connection made by Aquabee and o-ring should seal it properly,
Ok - i get what you are saying - but that is why you have unions and true union ball valves. you can still glue what is supposed to be glued (you glue the union to the adapter that screws into the aquabee) and disassemble when needed.

It is a non issue for me. After 48 hours - the solvent welding of the union to the adapter appears to be holding. I do not see any leaks from the adapter fittings screwed into the pump with the thread sealant applied.

My pH is still dropping as I continuously dose CO2. I started at pH of 8.13 at 1 PM on Sunday. I am now at pH of 6.32 at 9 AM on Tuesday. It's starting to flatten out so I'm getting closer to saturation.


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Old 07/20/2018, 03:24 PM   #784
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Has anyone using this reactor run into the issue where the sediment from the breakdown of the media clouds the water and covers the co2 sensor? I ran into that issue and had to clean out the reactor and replace the media. This limits the longevity of the media because it has to be removed once it gets too soft.


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Old 07/20/2018, 07:42 PM   #785
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For AC mini owners, how far up do you have the netting? Mine is near the top of lid and my optical sensor is staying green after cycling for a couple of hours with the solenoid. I am worried the sensor operation is affected.


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Old 07/23/2018, 03:52 PM   #786
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Can you post the photo please? What kind/size of media are you using?
Green optical sensor mean that gas level is proper inside mixing chamber. Wich oH you have on output(and also alkalinity?)
Regards
Przemek


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Old 07/23/2018, 03:54 PM   #787
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@Ted_C
Im sorry for late reply - we have holiday season now and Tomasz not replied to your message.
If you need any other support from us - please let me know directly, [email protected]
Hope that your reactor is working well!

Regards!

Przemek


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Old 07/23/2018, 07:08 PM   #788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Przemek_PacSun View Post
Can you post the photo please? What kind/size of media are you using?
Green optical sensor mean that gas level is proper inside mixing chamber. Wich oH you have on output(and also alkalinity?)
Regards
Przemek
I have been maintaining the alk at 7.5 but noticed it today at 7.2 . I did notice that the mixing chamber was about 4 inches from the bottom so I degassed and the water level rosed to above the optical sensor. The optical sensor light stayed green and solenoid did not cycle. Is this normal after degassing?

I opened up the mixing chamber to try to lower the netting. I got it as far down as I could but the optical sensor housing was in the way. I degassed and the system is now cycling (co2 solenoid cycling with optical sensor).
What picture do you want me to take of?

By the way, I secured my dosing of triton yesterday morning after incrementally lowering the dosing and raising the feed rate for two days. Have been monitoring alk using a direct measurement KH system.


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Old 07/23/2018, 07:09 PM   #789
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I forgot to mention that I am using the recommended ARM coarse media


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Old 07/23/2018, 08:27 PM   #790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Przemek_PacSun View Post
Can you post the photo please? What kind/size of media are you using?
Green optical sensor mean that gas level is proper inside mixing chamber. Wich oH you have on output(and also alkalinity?)
Regards
Przemek
Przemek, you explained to me how to clean the sensor. Since this is my first CaRx, I didn't realize it's common practice to rinse the media after some time to remove the sediment. After doing some cleaning maintenance everything is back up and running. No problems.

Thanks for responding so quickly to my email.


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Old 07/28/2018, 01:58 PM   #791
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So, my mixing chamber was full of co2 today and dropped the pH in my tank down to 7.8. I'm not sure if the optical sensor didn't trigger, or if the solenoid got stuck. The solenoid light is a black circle. I forget if that's what it's supposed to be.

Also, I stripped the threads on the solenoid. Bleh. Has anyone used a different solenoid? I would like one with metal threading.


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Current Tank Info: 78"x36"x27" acrylic, 6 Orphek Atlantik V3+ Compacts, MRC Orca Pro II w/washdown, CalcFeeder Pro AC3, Emperor Aquatics 80w UV, 80/20 aluminum stand, Vortech MP60's, Theiling Rollermat, GHL Profilux 3.1T EX, Kessil H380
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Old 07/28/2018, 03:40 PM   #792
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Ok, so the optical sensor is fine, but It appears that the solenoid fails open. Is this really a fail open solenoid?


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Current Tank Info: 78"x36"x27" acrylic, 6 Orphek Atlantik V3+ Compacts, MRC Orca Pro II w/washdown, CalcFeeder Pro AC3, Emperor Aquatics 80w UV, 80/20 aluminum stand, Vortech MP60's, Theiling Rollermat, GHL Profilux 3.1T EX, Kessil H380
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Old 07/28/2018, 03:43 PM   #793
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indeed. I used the burkett solenoid (there's a discussion in this thread somewhere about it). The electronic electromagnet part of the pacific sun solenoid assembly should work on the 6011 Burkett solenoid.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...&postcount=723

Edit: here are some pics







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Old 07/28/2018, 04:17 PM   #794
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indeed. I used the burkett solenoid (there's a discussion in this thread somewhere about it). The electronic electromagnet part of the pacific sun solenoid assembly should work on the 6011 Burkett solenoid.
Fantastic! Thank you!

Edit: Solenoid ordered!


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Current Tank Info: 78"x36"x27" acrylic, 6 Orphek Atlantik V3+ Compacts, MRC Orca Pro II w/washdown, CalcFeeder Pro AC3, Emperor Aquatics 80w UV, 80/20 aluminum stand, Vortech MP60's, Theiling Rollermat, GHL Profilux 3.1T EX, Kessil H380
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Old 07/29/2018, 08:01 AM   #795
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Fantastic! Thank you!

Edit: Solenoid ordered!
I think this is the one you would have wanted:

https://www.burkert-usa.com/en/produ...lenoids/150871

It's stainless steel, 12 V 4 watt (but you wont use the burkert electronics - just slip the pac-sun electronics over the pole of the burkert mechanical portion). You only need to try to get close to the electronic profile that Pac sun uses.


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Old 07/29/2018, 10:18 AM   #796
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Thanks again. The one I ordered is actually 24vdc as I couldn't find 12v: https://www.burkert-usa.com/en/products/293135I figured it didn't matter since I'd use the pacsun electronics. Plus, it was only $25 and thought it was worth a shot. I assume it will still work.?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted_C View Post
I think this is the one you would have wanted:

https://www.burkert-usa.com/en/produ...lenoids/150871

It's stainless steel, 12 V 4 watt (but you wont use the burkert electronics - just slip the pac-sun electronics over the pole of the burkert mechanical portion). You only need to try to get close to the electronic profile that Pac sun uses.



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Current Tank Info: 78"x36"x27" acrylic, 6 Orphek Atlantik V3+ Compacts, MRC Orca Pro II w/washdown, CalcFeeder Pro AC3, Emperor Aquatics 80w UV, 80/20 aluminum stand, Vortech MP60's, Theiling Rollermat, GHL Profilux 3.1T EX, Kessil H380
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Old 07/29/2018, 02:28 PM   #797
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Thanks again. The one I ordered is actually 24vdc as I couldn't find 12v: https://www.burkert-usa.com/en/products/293135I figured it didn't matter since I'd use the pacsun electronics. Plus, it was only $25 and thought it was worth a shot. I assume it will still work.?
it might - hard to tell. I've seen one that didn't work so far.


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Old 07/30/2018, 01:36 PM   #798
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Can someone explain to me how these work? I’m about fed up with the effluent clogging on my reactor? But I could put on a masterflex pump or something similar and possibly solve my issues.
Do you set your desired alk on the calcfeeder controller and it does the rest? Sort of like the Dastaco? Will I need a certain regulator, one included, or any will work?

Corey


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Old 07/30/2018, 01:52 PM   #799
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Can someone explain to me how these work? Iím about fed up with the effluent clogging on my reactor? But I could put on a masterflex pump or something similar and possibly solve my issues.
Do you set your desired alk on the calcfeeder controller and it does the rest? Sort of like the Dastaco? Will I need a certain regulator, one included, or any will work?

Corey
You set the flow rate, but you'll need to use trial and error for your desired ALK. Any regulator will work.


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Current Tank Info: 78"x36"x27" acrylic, 6 Orphek Atlantik V3+ Compacts, MRC Orca Pro II w/washdown, CalcFeeder Pro AC3, Emperor Aquatics 80w UV, 80/20 aluminum stand, Vortech MP60's, Theiling Rollermat, GHL Profilux 3.1T EX, Kessil H380
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Old 07/30/2018, 02:50 PM   #800
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So how is this any different than the traditional CaRx set up? Or are there no real advantages to changing out my GEO

Corey


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