Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

[ostrow]

Scott I run it at about 110ml/min.

Got a link to the correct pharmed tubing? That would suck as I have about 20 yards of this crap!

[slief]

Originally Posted by ostrow

Scott I run it at about 110ml/min.

Got a link to the correct pharmed tubing? That would suck as I have about 20 yards of this crap!

This is LS17 equivalent pharmed. Depending on which head you have, this may not be compatible but if you have an Easy Load or Easy Load II head, this stuff should work. The cheap clear heads only work with the clear tubing.
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/it...x?itemid=25534

[ostrow]

"Adjustable occlusions"? When you open the head to swap the tubing, it has to rest in these metal cradles on either side. I am suspicious of these. Are they adjustable somehow??

Sorry....I read this long thread and didn't see anything about occlusions. ��*♂️

[tkeracer619]

Originally Posted by ostrow

"Adjustable occlusions"? When you open the head to swap the tubing, it has to rest in these metal cradles on either side. I am suspicious of these. Are they adjustable somehow??

Sorry....I read this long thread and didn't see anything about occlusions. ��*♂️

Adjustable Occlusion simply means you can adjust the pinch on the tubing where the roller contacts the housing. on some heads they have clamps that hold the tubing in place.

Originally Posted by ostrow

Every few weeks now my tubing springs a leak. This didn't used to happen.

Anyone know the cause or the fix?

It's LS17 tubing. I am . out of town (of course) and don't have the pump model but it's not the brushless.

The only time I have run across breaks like this occurring is...
-The tubing is long past expiration
-Wrong Tubing/ Occlusion
-Bearings or other mechanical issues with the pump head.

If this didn't happen before and nothing has changed my guess is old tubing or the head is wearing out. Does everything roll smoothly? Are the tubes clean or are they covered in crap when they are broken?

Originally Posted by slief

The cheap clear heads only work with the clear tubing.

I've been using the standard clear heads (7017-21) for years with the pharmed ls17 equivalent with no issues. I actually think the tubing lasts longer in them than in the easyloads but they are a real pain to reload the tubing.

[ostrow]

Well I replace the tubing monthly.

I will post the model numbers shortly on the pump and head. When I replace it the tubing is kind of gunked.

The tubing I have had a year or more. I bought like 30' and use maybe 6" each month. But it's new tubing in the pump on the first of the month.

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

Adjustable Occlusion simply means you can adjust the pinch on the tubing where the roller contacts the housing. on some heads they have clamps that hold the tubing in place.



The only time I have run across breaks like this occurring is...
-The tubing is long past expiration
-Wrong Tubing/ Occlusion
-Bearings or other mechanical issues with the pump head.

If this didn't happen before and nothing has changed my guess is old tubing or the head is wearing out. Does everything roll smoothly? Are the tubes clean or are they covered in crap when they are broken?


I've been using the standard clear heads (7017-21) for years with the pharmed ls17 equivalent with no issues. I actually think the tubing lasts longer in them than in the easyloads but they are a real pain to reload the tubing.

[ostrow]

Are the 77200-60 and the 7518-60 interchangeable? What is the difference?

[yellojello]

Anyone know how to fix "Err 1" for 7557? The motor seized because of bad bearing, I replaced with new bearings, and now I get this error. Wondering if the seizing burnt out the encoder or maybe I might have damaged something opening the motor up?

[slief]

Originally Posted by yellojello

Anyone know how to fix "Err 1" for 7557? The motor seized because of bad bearing, I replaced with new bearings, and now I get this error. Wondering if the seizing burnt out the encoder or maybe I might have damaged something opening the motor up?

It means the main board is sensing an encoder error. I would take the motor apart and make sure everything is properly assembled because it’s likely that the mainboard isn’t getting proper feedback from the motor. There is an encoder in the motor that you aren’t supposed to remove when you rebuild the motor. I think it acts similar to a cam position timer in a cars engine and if you removed it and it’s not in the exact same position as it was (it’s adjustable and tuned from the factory), the main board in the pump won’t be able to sense the motors RPM or at least get proper feedback from it. I suspect you may have removed it when you rebuilt your motor and or misaligned it when you reassembled or worse, damaged it. I don’t know what you do to fix that. Maybe @tkeracer619 will chime in.

This is a thread he wrote covering the rebuild. Post 3 is very explicit in mentioning to not remove the encoder until you mark it’s exact position and given the Err 1 message and its meaning, I suspect you might have done something to the encoder when you rebuilt your motor.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2611468

[yellojello]

@slief thanks Slief, I suspect the encoder wheel may have just not been in the exact position when I reassembled it. For the 7557, it's a little different then the one posted in the Repair thread, which the 7557 seems a little more safe to cause any damage. Don't know if there is a way to tell the encoder or controller to "reset" the alignment setting. I just posted some pictures in the repair thread if anyone else wants to see.

Here is the encoder and wheel. Doesn't seem that delicate as the other ones posted:

[slief]

Originally Posted by yellojello

@slief thanks Slief, I suspect the encoder wheel may have just not been in the exact position when I reassembled it. For the 7557, it's a little different then the one posted in the Repair thread, which the 7557 seems a little more safe to cause any damage. Don't know if there is a way to tell the encoder or controller to "reset" the alignment setting. I just posted some pictures in the repair thread if anyone else wants to see.

Here is the encoder and wheel. Doesn't seem that delicate as the other ones posted:

It’s likely the position and it’s likely electronically calibrated from the factory. I would make a mark on each end tighten it down and retest. Then move it slightly and retest again and continue to do so until you find the sweet spot. It doesn’t look like there is much room for adjustment so if that is the issue, it shouldn’t take much to find the position as long as you have a reference point as to where you start making adjustments from. It looks like there should be sensor on the board that would need to align with the black outer ring on the round wheel on the end of the shaft.

[Ssteve]

I have a 7550-30 with a 1707-21 head on it. Everything works great. Runs the LS17 tubing,brushless model so it’s whisper quiet as well. PM me and I can text pictures and video clips.

$350 shipped.

[tkeracer619]

Originally Posted by slief

I don’t know what you do to fix that. Maybe @tkeracer619 will chime in.

So there is a programming mode that you may need to use. When you put a new motor onto a controller they actually need to be paired. I haven't ever needed to use this but I suspect it may be due to the encoders positioning. I'll see if I can find it this evening and post back.

In my engineering world when I tune a servo motor, I tell the motor to go a step, adjust, another step, adjust, and so on until I get the motor curves exactly where I want so that the expected motion is the measured motion. My guess this service mode is an autotune mode. Fingers crossed.

[tkeracer619]

Try this...

Before using the unit, a new Motor and/or Drive Assembly must be commissioned.
Without a pump head attached, press and hold the FLOW key and the DIR key while
powering up. Release the keys when the display blanks. After all LED’s and display
segments illuminate, press the START/STOP key. Display will change to CAL En,
and the CAL LED will flash. The motor will run at slow speed for a few seconds and
then stop. The display will change to TST En, and the motor will run again for a few
seconds. When the display changes to CAL, press any key except MODE.

[tkeracer619]

Also... if that doesn't make sense you could always call cp up and talk to the support folks. I'm sure they would be glad to walk you through commissioning for your exact model. Those instructions have been the same through several generations of drives but I was unable to find the service manual for your particular drive.

[ostrow]

Scott (or someone) different issue now. I replace tubing every month. But every couple of weeks the flow stops. Pump runs but no effluent.

I see no clogs anywhere. If I ramp the speed up to like 400+ and the head and close it again it will start again. But eventually peters out again.

7243-40 and 77200-60. But running maybe 2 yrs now.

How to even diagnose? Bad head? Bad pump? What to do?

[slief]

Originally Posted by ostrow

Scott (or someone) different issue now. I replace tubing every month. But every couple of weeks the flow stops. Pump runs but no effluent.

I see no clogs anywhere. If I ramp the speed up to like 400+ and the head and close it again it will start again. But eventually peters out again.

7243-40 and 77200-60. But running maybe 2 yrs now.

How to even diagnose? Bad head? Bad pump? What to do?

Sounds like a vacuum leak on the intake side of the pump. I would check all tubing and connections as it's likely pulling in air from some place.

[ostrow]

Well, everything's tight. I've ordered a replacement head, used, can keep as backup. Could be the gears. Very strange.

Just found a 7550-30 for under $200 will use and keep other as spare/backup and maybe replace gears. Let's see if the new pump and head resolve this.

[Gary Majchrzak]

Kamoer FX-STP Peristaltic Continuous Duty Dosing Pump now being offered for CaRx feed on a very popular reefing website.
(Somewhere in this 60+ page thread it's already been mentioned but I can't locate that!)
Does anyone in here care to comment on this Kamoer pump?

Feel free to PM me if apropos. (I'm giving away free no-prizes)

[ostrow]

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

If this didn't happen before and nothing has changed my guess is old tubing or the head is wearing out. Does everything roll smoothly? Are the tubes clean or are they covered in crap when they are broken?

I missed this before. They are covered in crap when broken. What does this indicate?

[ostrow]

I replaced the head and that fixed it. But interested in the gunk question ...

[stephj03]

Not sure if it's cool to put here but I a brushless model fs in the dry goods forum. Feel free to have this deleted if this is bad form.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

[dadnjesse]

Just picked up a 77301-22 with a 77301-21 head does anyone know where I can get a instruction manual for this I have never used one of these before

[LQT]

Originally Posted by dadnjesse

Just picked up a 77301-22 with a 77301-21 head does anyone know where I can get a instruction manual for this I have never used one of these before

Hop onto the Cole Parmer website and enter the model number of your pump in the search. It should lead you in the right direction.

[slief]

Originally Posted by dadnjesse

Just picked up a 77301-22 with a 77301-21 head does anyone know where I can get a instruction manual for this I have never used one of these before

Google is your friend! A quick Google search for "77301-22 manual" revealed this:
https://www.aps.anl.gov/files/APS-Up...tingManual.pdf

[dadnjesse]

Thanks