295-gallon Peninsular ZEOVit SPS with Solaris I Series

[Ed Reef]

Been surfing many marine forums and I must say this is one of the best forum out there for people like me who want to learn. I have mostly been an observer in this forum for a while now and I think it's about time I start my own thread.

This is my 1st build thread and I wanted to chronicle the development of my new 295 gallon Peninsular tank.

Like many, I have been fascinated by aquatic life since I was a child. Consequently, I have had an aquarium of one form or another for more than 20 years. My journey into the saltwater realm started in 2000 with a 120-gallon reef set-up in my parent home with all the wrong equipment.javascript:smilie('') This tank is set-up in my parent house (still there but now it's only FWLR) so I only get to enjoy it whenever I go back home once a year as my work do take me to different countries. Then in early 2006, I decided to start my own reef tank, starting with a 15-gallon Nano, which very quickly follow by a 45-gallon custom Cube and my current 180-gallon. Needless to say, I had my share of problems with nuisance algae and all the wrong equipments until I decided to do more research and buy my first reverse osmosis unit 2 years ago! It was only a matter of time until I decided to upgraded again and this time to a 295-gallon Peninsular SPS dominated tank.

After months of learning, planning, research and consultation, I finally decided to go ahead with my new tank using the latest in marine technology and combined all the great ideas from all of those great reefers in RC as well as this forum as my current SPS are getting too crowded in my existing tank. My decision to used the ZEOVit system also inspired from the many beautiful SPS tanks I see in RC and Zeovit forums…

Another goal I’m trying to achieve is to try to keep my hands out of the water as much as possible and have the best colors and health for my corals and fishes… The tank must also be as quiet as possible as one of the main problem with my current tank is my overflow is too loud and my pumps (local) are too noisy and loosing it’s flow after a while. Also my current tank is not design for easy maintenance as the plumbings are all glued and not able to remove for easy cleaning.

Hopefully this will be my final upgrade….

[Ed Reef]

This tank will be a peninsular tank measures 200cm long, 80cm wide and 70cm high, making it hold approximately 295 gallons. It is viewable from three sides, and has Sapphire® 15mm glass on all viewable sides with a 19mm regular glass on the based. Wanted to go rimless using a 19mm Sapphire® but can’t seem to get that here in China… ☹ even thou they advertise it’s available…



System Profile:
Tank Size: L: 200cm x W: 80cm x H 70cm (3-side view Low Iron Glass)
Sump Size: L: 102cm x W: 70cm x H 60cm (Custom)
Type of Reef: SPS Dominated tank with some fishes and LPS
System: Side Overflow with 200 pounds of base Reef rocks
Cabinet: Iron Metal Stand with Custom made 3-side View wooden Panel



The tank overflow is located on one end with sufficient space to hide, 2 x Tunze and 1 wavebox and a 1⁄4" piece of black acrylic laminated to the inside of the tank, which also incorporates the overflow's teeth and euro bracing that surrounds the tank’s perimeter. 8 x 1â€� holes are drilled in the euro-brace to be used for add flow, should it be required in the future.



I designed and will get a local contractor to construct the stand and canopy, as I’m not much a DYI type of guy. The stand is built from iron rods welded together so it is perfectly level in my apartment. On top of the stand are a layer of 15mm plywood and a layer of 3mm thick high-density rubber insulation.

Of particular concern to me during the canopy’s design was maintaining access to all areas of my tank and not having any obstructions or unsightly hardware (I do not have a center brace, only euro-bracing). While this was not easy to accommodate, I wanted to be able to move my corals all the way around the tank without removing my hand! I planned to accomplish this by the use of a stainless steel kitchen type door hinge and magnets to hold the panels open, thereby allowing unobstructed access to the tank. All wood surfaces were sealed with three coats of oil-based polyurethane.

Sump and Refugium:
I copy the tank design from someone in RC (can’t remember who) and made some modification to suite my needs accordingly. No refugium will be used in my new system as I will be running the ZEOvit style system



The sump is 102cm long, 70cm wide and 70cm high and has 4 baffles and incorporates a frag/ quarantine tank. The sump houses a 30cm x 70cm frag/ quarantine tank where new fishes or SPS frags can be first introduce before being place in the main tank. I planned to light the frag tank with a 60cm T5HO or an MH150w but have not decided yet which direction to go.



Water Quality and Filtration:
I am not one to check water parameters all that often due to my busy work schedule. The goal for me is to have an automated system with little daily maintenance as possible. I will be using my current 5-stage RO water filter. Biological filtration is provided by approximately 180lbs. of based dried reef rocks, which I plan to seed using some live rocks and ZEObak to seed. I also plan to add in approximately 2-3cm of aragonite in the display - just enough to facilitate aquascaping rather than provide any significant biological filtration.

Water Parameters:
It was a no-brainer for me to use the ZEOvit system to maintain my water parameter after seeing all those beautiful Zeovit tanks in RC and Zeovit forums. Will be using the ZEOVit system for this tank with ZEO Carbon and a Deltec PF 601S Series Fluidised Calcium Reactor powered by Aquabee pump to maintain my Calcium in my tank. Will also be using D-D Solenoid Valve and D-D CO2 Pin Wheel Regulator to avoid a CO2 disaster and AB Brand SP3000 Peristaltic Pump as water feed to the Calcium reactor.

Similarly, no UV or other phosphate removal medium is used. I have tried carbon and phosphate removal media in my existing system, but have decided not to go this direction for my new tank after seeing no visible indicators of improvement, apart from the used of ZEOCarbon as it’s recommended for the ZEOvit system.

For mechanical filtration I will utilize 100-micron nylon filter bags on both 1.5� overflow drainpipes, the 1� coral fragment tank’s overflow drainpipe and the 1� skimmer output pipe. I plan to change the 100-micron filter bags daily. The bags will be hand-washed/rinsed in warm water; no detergent or bleach is used during washing.

For skimmer, the choices are between an external BK250, ATI BM250 and Deltec AP 902 or 702 but after some reading in different forums, I decided to go with a Deltec - AP 702 skimmer instead. This is powered by 2 x Eheim 1260 series pumps and is rated for 1500L to 2000L system, so should be more than enough to removed all those organic waste from the amount of fishes I planned to keep in my new tank. I originally wanted to go with the Deltec AP902 series but the height of this skimmer is just too tall for my tank as everything has to fit under my stand. ☹

For my ZEOvit reactor, I decided to go with I~Aquatic's ZEOvit Reactor: IZ-818 (Up To 4L of ZEOVit) as from what I read; this is the best reactor out there that is jam-free. This reactor will be feed via a Eheim 1250 series pump rated at 1200l/h. There is also a section in my sump to place my ZEOCarbon and this should help keep water parameter in line.

I will also be using my existing GROTech III NG dosing pump (3 pumps) to help maintain my Mg and dKH parameters and maybe dosing of some of my ZEOvit daily supplements.

Lighting:
With the amount of choices today, this was the most difficult thing for me to decide. In my current tank, I’m using a Solarmax XBright Series 250w MH with T5HO with XM10K bulbs but was never really happy with the colors and light spread. It’s also very difficult for me to get replacement bulbs and T5 tubes here in China.

With the soaring electricity bills and limited access to imported MH bulbs and T5HO, I finally decided to go with the latest 72� I Series Solaris 20K LED Illumination System as there seem to be a lot of positive feedback on the I-series. Hopefully I won’t have to worry about changing light bulbs in the next 10 years and looking forward to a reduce in electricity bills.

My only concern is the spread of lights as my tank is 80cm wide but I was assure that it will not be a problem if I hang it 10cm above my tank….planned to build a movable lighting tracks to hang my Solaris so that I can have to option to move it left/ right or front/ back. This way, if I need some light focus on a certain area, I have the option to move my lightings as LED lightings are very précised and my concern is light spread.

I have not decided what lights to used for my frag tank…but it will be a year or two before I needed them anyway.

Circulation:
Circulation will be provided by an Sequence Reeflo Pump - Hammerhead (18,000L/h) whose output will be delivered back into the tank via two 1� penductor on the far end of the tank.

I estimate about 10,000 L/h is delivered back to the tank from the return pump. I might add on 2 Wavesea + in the future to my returns if this is not enough to give a random flow.

I was contemplating on using a close loop but in the end decided not to go this direction, as I want to reduce the risk of flooding from those add holes drilled. As in China, I have difficulty in getting good bulk heads (SCH80 series) I opt for 2 x Tunze Turbelle Stream 6201 and 1 x Tunze Wavebox 6212 hidden in my overflow instead. I spoke to Roger of Tunze and he says this should be more than enough flow and should create a 1.5â€� wave… ☺

I estimated my total flow should be about 50x turnover for the tank.

Controller:
With my goal of automation as much things as possible, I was doing a lot of reading on aquarium controllers….after much thoughts and comparison, I decided to go for want I think it’s the best out there at this moment - ProfiLux Plus II Professional Ex Plus, which included the below:
➢ 2 x 6 socket digital power bar
➢ 1 x ph/temp expansion card
➢ 1 x ph port
➢ 1 x ph electrode (for tank)
➢ 1 x ph electrode (for CR)
➢ 1 x temp port
➢ 1 x temp sensor
➢ 1 x ORP port
➢ 1 x ORP electrode
➢ 1 x Conductivity port
➢ 1 x Conductivity electrode (platinum)
➢ 3 x level control port
➢ 1 x level controls fastening kit
➢ 1 x mechanical float switch
➢ 1 x optical float sensor
➢ 1 x level sensor y-splitter
➢ 2 x tunze control cable
➢ 1 x tunze control y-splitter
➢ 1 x RS232 cable
➢ 1 x USB expansion card with USB cable
➢ 1 x calibration liquid set

I think I’m the 1st person in China using this controller so let’s see. Will feedback more once I start setting up the controller.

Chiller:
My current tank is using a local brand chiller - Hailea HL-1200CHB rated for up to 1500L tank, which comes with a build-in titanium chiller coil and a build-in heater. Been using for a year now in my current tank and I find it very reliable (been through outside temperature from 6 degree to 42 degree) and I don’t have to worry about adding additional heater in my sump area.

For my new system, I will also be utilizing the same chiller but a larger unit - Hailea HL-2000CHB, which is rated for tanks up to 3000L

Coral Pegging System:
I was most impress with RC’s Dave Jelley’s TOTM (May 2007) as he create an easy way to relocated SPS corals as well as fragging. For those of you in this hobby, we all know how difficult it is to try to glue or move those SPS corals under water and I think his method is very innovative.

This system incorporates drilling small holes into both the display tank's live rock and the base of the subject coral. Rigid tubing is then inserted into the hole in the subject coral and is then placed into the desired hole in the live rock. However, instead of using rigid tubing’s, I have will be using SPS frag plugs instead.

Aquascaping:
The idea is to create a natural as possible Aquascaping with overhangs and plenty of swimming space for my fishes. I have seen so many nice aquascaping here in RC and it’s difficult to decided what I like as I like them all….should I go minimalist, Bonsai type aquascaping or pillars with overhangs??

I finally decided to go with pillars with overhangs as I think this will met my objective of a natural reef for my SPS to grows and also allowed plenty of flow and space for my fishes…

With that, I will be using PVC tubes to create pillars. I will be using 90 percent dried based reef rocks to drill holes into them and aquascape them to my liking. Good thing is here in Fuzhou, I’m able to go to the LFS and choose the type of based rocks I like and need. One of the advantages of being a regular customer, I guess....

The adventure begins……..

[Ed Reef]

Been busy the last couple of months putting my plans for my tank in order. As most of the equipments I wanted to used are not available locally, I have to coordinate with distributors in Singapore for most of my equipments.

On 2 Feb I have orders for the following items:

LIGHTINGS:
- Solaris I 72 inch 20K LED Illumination System
- Solaris Hanging Kit

EQUIPMENT:
- Return Pump - Sequence Reeflo Pump - Hammerhead (18000L/h)
- I~Aquatic's ZEOvit Reactor: IZ-818 (Up To 4L of ZEOVit)
- Protein Skimmer Deltec - AP 702 w/ Drain Valve
- Calcium Reactor - Deltec PF 601S
- D-D Solenoid Valve
- D-D CO2 Pin Wheel Regulator
- Rowalith C+ (12.5 kg)

SET-UP:
- Penductor - 1 inch MPT Black with 0.3 inch orifice

MAINTAINANCE:
Test Kits
- Salifert kH/Alk Profi Test
- Salifert NO3 Profi Test
- Salifert Ca Profi Test
- Salifert Mg Profi Test
- Korallen Zucht Potassium Test Kit
- D&D PO4 High Sensitivity Test Kit

Apart from my Solaris lighting and my Hammerhead return pump, which have a wait list until end Mar/ early April, most of my equipments should arrived around 3rd week of Feb.

Also place orders for my GHL Profilux Controller from their distributor in Singapore, which I should be able to pick up while I’m in Singapore middle of Feb.

My wallet is now so much lighter.... there goes my year-end bonus saving....

[Ed Reef]

Now for more updates:

15 Feb, 2008 (Friday)
- Collect all my equipments in Singapore. Most equipment have arrived, except for my return pump (estimated arrived end Feb) and my lights (estimated arrived end Mar/ early Apr).
- Will order my Tunze 6201 and wavebox in China as they are out of stock here in Singapore…

The next day my ProfiLux Plus II Professional Ex Plus controller has also arrived… I’m so excited. Gabriel (distributor GHL in Singapore) was great in Customer Service and even delivers it to the hotel for me. Now I have to figure out how to carry these entire equipments home from Singapore to China, Fuzhou tomorrow…

18 Feb, 2008 (Monday)
Back safely in Fuzhou but some of my items I left in HK as I was unable to carry so many things from my flight from Shenzhen to Fuzhou. Anyway, I will get it shipped within this 2 weeks or see if I have any friends coming up to Fuzhou and they can help me carry here….

28 Feb, 2008 (Thursday) - MY HAMMERHEAD SHIPPED FROM SINGAPORE….
- Yes, got an e-mail that my Hammerhead has arrived and will be shipped via DHL today….should take a few days to arrived.
- Place orders for my Co2 cylinder locally. Decided to order 2 cylinder as I can use 1 for spare when I need to refill the other one…
- Also place orders for my Tunze 6201 pump and wavebox and my AB3000 SP3000 Peristaltic Pump for my Calcium Reactor.
- I also order my ZEOvit supplements for 6 months stocks as below:

* ZEOvit (1L) x 14
* ZEOfood7 (50ml) x 1
* ZEObac (Shelf Life - 6 months) (50ml) x 1
* ZEOstart2 (500ml) * 1
* ZEO Activated Carbon (1000ml) x 6
* Amino Acid High Concentrate (100ml) x 1
* Pohl's Coral Vitalizer (Natural Coral Food) - 50ml x 1

- Also place orders for 55.2kg of ZEO Aragonite sand (2-3mm), which should be delivered next week. This should give me about 2-3mm sand bed (I hope)

29 Feb, 2008 (Friday)
- Can’t find good plumbing here in China…I cannot believe it…as China is the manufacturer of the world…!! Anyway manage to find a local online website for plumbing parts from Taiwan and place orders for my plumbing and should arrived next week….
- For bulkheads, I cannot get any reliable brand names so will minimized the holes in my tank.

More in next updates with pictures..... stay tune.....

[Charlie's Angel]

Looking forward to following along.

[Ed Reef]

2 Mar, 2008 (Sunday)

- Today I start my collection of dried reef rocks to start building my pillars for my new tank.
- Went to the LFS with some of my staff and I bought 180kg of dried reef rocks….mostly are flat pieces so it’s easier for me to make my pillars…



Each piece is about 12 - 14� across….



- Also finalized the making of my new tank today…. they made my current 150-gallon tank and I must say their workmanship is quite satisfactory.
- Check my DHL shipment for my Hammerhead return pump for my new tank and it’s already in HK.... bounce2 Ed

[ReefingBuddha]

look good, sounds like you have it all figure out. That looks like some really nice base rock, I'm sure aqua scaping will be a lot of fun. Looking forward to seeing where this tank is going. Subscribed.

[khoivo1]

do you think your solaris i series will have enough light coverage with 32"w tank/??
i want one of that light too but don't know much about it,,,thanks

[invincible569]

Your planning is exceptional. Keep the ideas and designs coming. I also was a bit worried when you mentioned the Solaris. Hopefully it will work out ok for you.

[Tangwich]

I'm tagging along as I'm thinking this is going to be a great build thread. Congrats and can't wait to see what's next....

[ReefingBuddha]

RC member Marcy (Me No Nemo) will be able to answer any Solaris questions you might have. She also has a I series solaris and is very happy with it. She did have some problems with the solaris H series in her store as it didn't give enough front to back light coverage and she might be the perfect person to ask about your 32" wide tank. I have had a solaris myself and was very happy with the control aspect and was reasonably satisfied with the light intensity but was less impressed by the light spread. My problem at the time was the I had a hexagon tank and I was getting a lot of shadow within and under the branches of SPS which I didn't like. In a rectangle tank I think it would work out great but Marcy knows a lot more then I do. Good luck and things look AWESOME!

[Ed Reef]

Originally posted by thirschmann
look good, sounds like you have it all figure out. That looks like some really nice base rock, I'm sure aqua scaping will be a lot of fun. Looking forward to seeing where this tank is going. Subscribed.

Thanks thirschmann for subscribing to my thread.... can't wait to start on my aquascaping....

Originally posted by khoivo1
do you think your solaris i series will have enough light coverage with 32"w tank/??
i want one of that light too but don't know much about it,,,thanks

Well khoivo1, you can check out Solaris website for more info about the lights or as thirschmann says, one of the good build thread with a Solaris lights will be Marcy - she have a great build thread and very knowledgeable about this lighting, which I'm also subscribe to...

Originally posted by invincible569
Your planning is exceptional. Keep the ideas and designs coming. I also was a bit worried when you mentioned the Solaris. Hopefully it will work out ok for you.

Thanks invincible569 - I'm so happy the big boys are onto my thread now...your build thread and your tank have been an inspiration to me and many others and I'm sure as I go along there will lot's of advise I'm looking forward to asking you.. Now if I can only get Tbone onto this thread, I can reach a 1000 post before I put the 1st drop of water in my tank...

As for the lights, we are very fortunate that now we have so many choices for lightings (to the extend confusing...hehehe) compare to when I first started in this hobby... I have look at different options of MH, T5HO and LED lighting fixtures; Giesemann SPECTRA HQ (E40) / T-5, Giesemann MOONLIGHT HQ / T-5 dim, even the new Giesemann Matrix 12 x 80 Watt T-5 & ATI Dimmable Power Modul T5...the choices are crazy. I'm currently using a 250w MH with T5 on my existing 150-gallon tank and I have tried different combination MH bulbs, from 10k to 20k combination but yet to find a combination that is suitable to my eyes and yet provided acceptable growth.

It wasn't easy to fork out this amount of $$ on some 'untested' technology but that was the case for T5 lightings a few years ago too... I remember when I first started off this hobby, there were talks about T5 only good for FW planted tanks but boy...have that chance today with so many T5 only tanks making their way into the TOTM...who knows, one day we might have a LED lighted tank for TOTM... Also the I-series seem to have much less complains on quality build compare to their initial G and H-series...

After summarizing what I want to achieve in this tank, I believe Solaris suit my needs best for easy maintainance, colors temperature & acceptable coral growths. From my reading and what I see on tanks with Solaris set-up (not that I have seen a lot for comparison, only 1 actual set-up and the rest from forums like this), the LED light spread are more direct (like a spot light) with less spread compare to a MH. With my Peninsular tank width of 80cm and 70cm high, and the lighting fixture width of 22cm, I'm planning to hang the fixture 10cm above the edge of my tank and should give me a light spread of 80cm (my understanding from their website) but less intensity towards the the edge of the tank and hopefully promoted less algae growth (remember I have 3 panel glass to clean ) ) or I might need to start saving for another fixture... or alternatively add on those track 150w MH spot lights later on pointing towards the side to cover those 'blind spots' (similar to what you have achieve in yours) My planned aquascaping will also be along the center (3 side view) and only 60cm width so this should give the corals sufficient lights... However, if my tank was not set-up as a Peninsular but a one side view, I won't have go with the Solaris but maybe one of the shortlisted lights above....so i'm not saying this LED lighting is for everyone but most important is to see what best suit your needs, aquascaping, overall looks, color temperature, etc..

I also notice that SPS sort of grow upwards towards the lights as well instead of the normal wide branching when using MH (not sure if I'm making sense here)

I hope this thread does not turn out into another heated debate of Solaris vs. others thread as there is already plenty of that in this forum

Originally posted by Tangwich
I'm tagging along as I'm thinking this is going to be a great build thread. Congrats and can't wait to see what's next....

Thanks Tangwich - you just put pressure on me to post more pictures...

Originally posted by thirschmann
RC member Marcy (Me No Nemo) will be able to answer any Solaris questions you might have. She also has a I series solaris and is very happy with it. She did have some problems with the solaris H series in her store as it didn't give enough front to back light coverage and she might be the perfect person to ask about your 32" wide tank. I have had a solaris myself and was very happy with the control aspect and was reasonably satisfied with the light intensity but was less impressed by the light spread. My problem at the time was the I had a hexagon tank and I was getting a lot of shadow within and under the branches of SPS which I didn't like. In a rectangle tank I think it would work out great but Marcy knows a lot more then I do. Good luck and things look AWESOME!

Agree with thirschmann to subscribe to Marcy (Me No Nemo) build thread as she is the expert on Solaris - me, I'm just a newbie.... Ed

[khoivo1]

i asked me no nemo but he said ask PFO to see how high i can hang the light to get 32" depth ( front to back)
i thought before you build this thread you have been asking or looking around to know if its cover or not,,,but i guess i will keep looking around to see who know it better,,, i may also call pfo to see what they say thanks

[Ed Reef]

Originally posted by khoivo1
i asked me no nemo but he said ask PFO to see how high i can hang the light to get 32" depth ( front to back)
i thought before you build this thread you have been asking or looking around to know if its cover or not,,,but i guess i will keep looking around to see who know it better,,, i may also call pfo to see what they say thanks

Below is a quote I take directly from their website on light spread. Hope it's helpful.

[quote] The Solaris is designed very much like a spot light. The higher the light is away from the bottom of the tank, the wider the spread of the light will be. The dimensions in the following diagram are the maximum light spread at the corresponding height. It is recommended to plan for the light spread to be equal to the water depth. ie: If the tank water depth is 18" than the light spread will be 18" front to back.

The length of the Solaris needs to be the approximate length of the tank. With a metal halide system a 24" tank can be lit with one 12" pendant. Using the Solaris, you would need a 24" long system to light the 24" long tank.

Corner tanks and half circle tanks need to be closely watched when applying the Solaris. Please contact us for advise on these type of tanks. The Solaris has performed well on most bow front tanks. [unquote]

So in summary, YES, it will cover the 32" width. However, it's best to see one for your self to see if LED lightings spread is what you really want. Like I say in my previous post, this LED lighting will not suit everyone's needs...it will depend on your aquascape set-up, expectation of coral growths, etc. If you do a search here, you can find a lot of thread on LED lightings...but in the end of this day, I think the only one who can make decision on lightings is yourself as what suit someone's needs might not necessary suit your needs... good luck...Ed

[Ed Reef]

oh...in your case, for a 32" light spread, you will need to hang it 32" from the bottom. i.e. if your tank is 24" high, then you will need to hang it 8" above the edge of your tank to get the 32" light spread at the bottom of your tank...

Should you decided to go with Solaris, do take note that the intensity of the lights are somehow weaker towards the top part of the tank...meaning the intensity of the lights are stronger towards the middle to bottom onwards...this will mean you will have to take this into consideration when you are planning your aquascaping...Ed

[Ed Reef]

Not a very exciting update but at least some pictures...

- Yes….CO2 Cylinder arrived for my new tank…I order 2 CO2 cylinder (2L/ 1L) so that I can used the 1L unit as spare while I refill the other.
- Also order a D-D Solenoid Valve to be used with my CO2 to avoid a sudden crash of CO2…intend to used my Profilux to control the PH probe in my CR and to shut off the Solenoid when the PH get’s too high/ low.



More in next updates... Ed

[khoivo1]

thanks ed,,,
so with your 32" front to back,,i am guessing that you gonna hang the light up right?? i think i will keep reading your thread here to see how is it goes,,,
i couldn't do a search on rc here ,,,don't know why but alway asking me to be a premium member or what ever,,,i can't find any on google either,,so i will check back here in couple day to see how is everything goes,,,good luck to you with your plan thanks

[Ed Reef]

Originally posted by khoivo1
thanks ed,,,
so with your 32" front to back,,i am guessing that you gonna hang the light up right?? i think i will keep reading your thread here to see how is it goes,,,
i couldn't do a search on rc here ,,,don't know why but alway asking me to be a premium member or what ever,,,i can't find any on google either,,so i will check back here in couple day to see how is everything goes,,,good luck to you with your plan thanks

Yes, I'm planning to hang it about 10cm above the edge of my tank but will see how it goes...my planned aquascape is along the center of the tank (about 60cm width) as it's a Peninsular set-up with 3-side view so I do not mind too much if it does not spread the whole 80cm. My biggest concern is actually shadows as the light is very focus and as the SPS grows, that could be a problem. However, I can always add a couple of those track hanging MH spot lights later on if required to light those shadow areas....


You can subscribe to this thread (if you want to) and everytime there is an update, an e-mail will be send to you....Ed

[LiveRock27]

I love the detail in your planning for this setup. I will be following along. Good luck with the setup and getting all your equipment.

[Ed Reef]

Originally posted by LiveRock27
I love the detail in your planning for this setup. I will be following along. Good luck with the setup and getting all your equipment.

Thanks - will surely need all the luck I can get... Ed

[Tangwich]

I use to rely on luck, but then I found ReefCentral...great to know of a place with sooooo many individuals willing to offer helpful advice.
Aquascaping is going to be a dream with that rock Ed. Any drawings or sketches that resemble what you want your rockwork to look like?

[Ed Reef]

Originally posted by Tangwich
I use to rely on luck, but then I found ReefCentral...great to know of a place with sooooo many individuals willing to offer helpful advice.
Aquascaping is going to be a dream with that rock Ed. Any drawings or sketches that resemble what you want your rockwork to look like?

Yeah...Tangwich, I agree RC is the best... can't imagine what this hobby would be like without this forum...I have learn so much from simply reading all those wonderful build-thread and that's the reason I'm starting my own now so that hopefully you all can advise me when I'm off track and also hopefully others can find this thread useful for their own future build threads

Sorry no visual drawing or sketches on my aquascaping but have it up in my head.. My worry is drilling those rocks as I've never drilled them before so this is the 1st time..... Ed

[Tangwich]

Alright Ed, we all know that you have a fish list as we all work on a fish list the first day we even start to think about upgrading to a bigger tank...so out with it..lol..

-Jesse

[Aaronovky]

like to the finished tank like to see more photos soon!!!!!

[Ed Reef]

Originally posted by Tangwich
Alright Ed, we all know that you have a fish list as we all work on a fish list the first day we even start to think about upgrading to a bigger tank...so out with it..lol..

-Jesse

Fish list????? what's that?? you mean we actually have to keep fishes in the tank










Well, the stocking list was supposed to come later in this thread but since you asked....

Most fishes will be from my existing 150-gallon tank to start off

CURRENT FISHES:

Surgeonfish Family
• 1 x Yellow Tang – how can a tank be without this fish??
• 1 x Palette Tang
• 1 x Goldring Bristletooth (Yelloweye Bristletooth)
• 1 x Powder Blue Tang x 1

Triggerfish Family
• 1 x Niger Trigger

Damselfish Family
• 3 x Ocellaris Anemonefish (false Percular Clownfish)
• 2 x Green Chromis

Angelfish Family
• 1 x Emperor Angelfish (Juv)
• 1 x Flame Angelfish

Dottybacks Family
• 1 x Royal Dottyback

Anthias Family
• 4 x Squarespot Anthias
• 3 x Copper Anthias

and then will try to get the followings:

FUTURE FISHES:

Surgeonfish Family
• 3 x Yellow Tang
• 1 x Purple Tang
• 1 x Orangespine Unicornfish (Naso)

Triggerfish Family
• Crosshatch Trigger (a pair) OR 1 x Sargassum Trigger

Angelfish Family
• 1 x Bluegridled Angelfish
• 1 x Regal Angelfish (might try if I can get a healthy species)

Cardinal Fish Family
• 8 x Orangestriped Cardinal OR Threadfin Cardinal OR Bluestreak

Hawkfish Family
• 1 x Longnose Hawkfish OR Flame Hawkfish

Blennie Family
• 1 x Biocolor Blenny
• 1 x Redstreak Blenny
• 1 x Lawnmover Blenny

Wrasses Family
• 1 x Six Liner Wrasse
• 1 x Leopard Wrasse
• 2 x Flasher/ Fairy Wrasses (depending what I can get)

Grammas Family
• 1 x Royal Gramma

Anthias Family
• 8 x Bartlett’s Anthias OR Purple Queen Anthias OR Princess Anthias

Any suggesting?? I actually love schooling fishes and started wiht about 10 Green Chromis but over time they seem to just kill each other off...leaning only 2 now in my tank....