Retrofitting a horizontal overflow to existing vertical overflow

RobertK · 09/03/2006, 10:37 PM

Hi there,
Has anyone installed an internal horizontal overflow that flows from left to right (or vice versa) and dumps into an existing internal vertical overflow? I've got a 65 gal tank with a single vertical corner overflow. I want a horizontal overflow but can't drain and drill the tank. I'd really appreciate any guidance from anyone who's tried this before I take the plunge.
Thanks,
Robert

headshrink · 09/03/2006, 11:24 PM

Great idea. I would think two strips of acrylic siliconed to the top back of the tank....would need to punch a hole into your existing overflow. I would think making the teeth would be the toughest part..... maybe you could used one of those guides for making box joints with the router....

RobertK · 09/03/2006, 11:35 PM

Yes, I'm not sure how to make the teeth. What sort of guide are you talking about?

headshrink · 09/04/2006, 02:08 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by RobertK
Yes, I'm not sure how to make the teeth. What sort of guide are you talking about?

You can check out thisDIY job, but I wouldn't run acrylic through on that blade.
You could also look at something like this. Although, the teeth may be too big.
The cheapest, however, and possibly the best for your application would be Melev's tooth jig.

Good luck!

RobertK · 09/04/2006, 08:06 AM

Thanks for the suggestions and links. (you just like the first one because the blades are made by Freud, right?) I agree the third one is the only one I could even consider, except I don't own a router or a table saw. I'll have to chew it over. Maybe my local plastics shop can do it for me.
Thanks,
Robert

brackishdude · 09/04/2006, 08:49 AM

No teeth, just weir. Weldon a piece of plexi to the inside of your vert OF to close those teeth.

Check out the calfo threads over the last few days. Here's more http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=619976

The interface between the existing box and the calfo would be the tough part, getting flush and sealing it. The water can flow through a drilled hole at any level (i.e. no "over-the-top-flow needed).

Good luck and post pics.

RobertK · 09/04/2006, 10:10 AM

Yes, I've been reading that thread and all the others I can find on overflows. I've seen the trend away from using teeth, but I've been having trouble figuring out how to do it without them.

Part of the problem is that the tank has euro braces sticking out 3-1/2" from all four walls. I think the whole contraption needs to be removable so I can clean it - I won't be able to get down into it from the top due to the brace. I might have to rig up a clamp or tie of some sort to hold it onto the tank from the top.

I was thinking of cutting out one or more of the teeth rather than sealing them off. Also, I presume that I'll have to make it slightly lower on one side to make the water flow from left to right.

Keep those ideas coming! I'll post some pics when I can.

Thanks,
Robert

RobertK · 09/04/2006, 12:17 PM

Here is a picture of my overflow. It is 5" square and the adjacent glass top brace is 3.5" wide. The tank itself is only 15" wide. I will need to somehow attach the new horizontal overflow to the top brace so that I can remove it for cleaning, as the brace will prevent me from getting down into it from above. I will need to abandon the hole in the brace for the return line and run the return in front of the new overflow. I am thinking I might build some brackets out of acrylic so I can slide the overflow on and off the brace, then clamp it to the side wall of the old overflow - that way I won't need to use any silicone or glue. What do you think?

Rendos · 09/04/2006, 01:48 PM

Here is my toothless overflow..

RobertK · 09/04/2006, 04:59 PM

Rendos,
Where did you get that black mesh?
Thanks,
Robert

sjm817 · 09/04/2006, 07:15 PM

Its plastic Gutter Guard. Comes in a roll. Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

Jasen Hicks · 09/04/2006, 07:18 PM

Robert, from the other post...

Id use ABS as it is easier to silicone to glass. I have heard of horror stories of using silicone on acrylic and it not holding worth a beans.

Jasen

RobertK · 09/04/2006, 07:51 PM

Awesome.
Thanks, guys.
RK

RobertK · 09/04/2006, 07:54 PM

Rendos,
Looks like you have the gutter guard glued to the inside of an acrylic overflow. Yes? What kind of glue?
Thanks,
RK

RobertK · 09/06/2006, 02:15 PM

OK, so I still could use some help designing this thing. What I've deciced to do is build a trough 3.5' long (the width of the top opening on the tank) that is the same width as the glass top brace (3") or less, with brackets that will clamp it onto the brace. I'll also clamp it onto the existing overflow, that way the whole thing will be removable for cleaning and I won't need to glue/silicone it in place. I still haven't decided about the teeth and about how to tap into the existing overflow.

Here are my questions:
1 - what dimensions of the trough would be needed to handle about 700 GPH? The smaller the better so as not to take up too much tank space.

2 - How much of a drop is needed from left to right to ensure that the water flows steadily through the new trough into the existing vertical overflow?

3 - How thick do you think the sheet of water will be as it spills over into the trough?

Thanks!

Robert

09/03/2006, 10:37 PM	#1
RobertK Premium Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Monterey Bay, CA Posts: 869	Retrofitting a horizontal overflow to existing vertical overflow Hi there, Has anyone installed an internal horizontal overflow that flows from left to right (or vice versa) and dumps into an existing internal vertical overflow? I've got a 65 gal tank with a single vertical corner overflow. I want a horizontal overflow but can't drain and drill the tank. I'd really appreciate any guidance from anyone who's tried this before I take the plunge. Thanks, Robert

09/04/2006, 01:48 PM	#9
Rendos Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 5,380	Here is my toothless overflow.. __________________ Richard Rendos - Founder WTMRAC It can't rain all the time. Current Tank Info: 92 gallon corner bowfront

09/04/2006, 07:15 PM	#11
sjm817 On Yer left! Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Northern VA Posts: 18,777	Its plastic Gutter Guard. Comes in a roll. Home Depot, Lowes, etc. __________________ - Scott

09/04/2006, 07:18 PM	#12
Jasen Hicks Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Yokosuka, Japan Posts: 240	Robert, from the other post... Id use ABS as it is easier to silicone to glass. I have heard of horror stories of using silicone on acrylic and it not holding worth a beans. Jasen __________________ Jasen Hicks I work and live in Japan. Thanks Navy! "Girls only want boyfreinds with great skills!" http://www.JasensCustoms.com Current Tank Info: 10G Office Reef

09/03/2006, 11:24 PM	#2
headshrink Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Folsom "Big House", CA Posts: 1,255	Great idea. I would think two strips of acrylic siliconed to the top back of the tank....would need to punch a hole into your existing overflow. I would think making the teeth would be the toughest part..... maybe you could used one of those guides for making box joints with the router....

09/03/2006, 11:35 PM	#3
RobertK Premium Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Monterey Bay, CA Posts: 869	Yes, I'm not sure how to make the teeth. What sort of guide are you talking about?

09/04/2006, 08:06 AM	#5
RobertK Premium Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Monterey Bay, CA Posts: 869	Thanks for the suggestions and links. (you just like the first one because the blades are made by Freud, right?) I agree the third one is the only one I could even consider, except I don't own a router or a table saw. I'll have to chew it over. Maybe my local plastics shop can do it for me. Thanks, Robert

09/04/2006, 08:49 AM	#6
brackishdude Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 372	No teeth, just weir. Weldon a piece of plexi to the inside of your vert OF to close those teeth. Check out the calfo threads over the last few days. Here's more http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=619976 The interface between the existing box and the calfo would be the tough part, getting flush and sealing it. The water can flow through a drilled hole at any level (i.e. no "over-the-top-flow needed). Good luck and post pics.

09/04/2006, 10:10 AM	#7
RobertK Premium Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Monterey Bay, CA Posts: 869	Yes, I've been reading that thread and all the others I can find on overflows. I've seen the trend away from using teeth, but I've been having trouble figuring out how to do it without them. Part of the problem is that the tank has euro braces sticking out 3-1/2" from all four walls. I think the whole contraption needs to be removable so I can clean it - I won't be able to get down into it from the top due to the brace. I might have to rig up a clamp or tie of some sort to hold it onto the tank from the top. I was thinking of cutting out one or more of the teeth rather than sealing them off. Also, I presume that I'll have to make it slightly lower on one side to make the water flow from left to right. Keep those ideas coming! I'll post some pics when I can. Thanks, Robert

09/04/2006, 12:17 PM	#8
RobertK Premium Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Monterey Bay, CA Posts: 869	Here is a picture of my overflow. It is 5" square and the adjacent glass top brace is 3.5" wide. The tank itself is only 15" wide. I will need to somehow attach the new horizontal overflow to the top brace so that I can remove it for cleaning, as the brace will prevent me from getting down into it from above. I will need to abandon the hole in the brace for the return line and run the return in front of the new overflow. I am thinking I might build some brackets out of acrylic so I can slide the overflow on and off the brace, then clamp it to the side wall of the old overflow - that way I won't need to use any silicone or glue. What do you think?

09/04/2006, 04:59 PM	#10
RobertK Premium Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Monterey Bay, CA Posts: 869	Rendos, Where did you get that black mesh? Thanks, Robert

09/04/2006, 07:51 PM	#13
RobertK Premium Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Monterey Bay, CA Posts: 869	Awesome. Thanks, guys. RK

09/04/2006, 07:54 PM	#14
RobertK Premium Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Monterey Bay, CA Posts: 869	Rendos, Looks like you have the gutter guard glued to the inside of an acrylic overflow. Yes? What kind of glue? Thanks, RK

09/06/2006, 02:15 PM	#15
RobertK Premium Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Monterey Bay, CA Posts: 869	OK, so I still could use some help designing this thing. What I've deciced to do is build a trough 3.5' long (the width of the top opening on the tank) that is the same width as the glass top brace (3") or less, with brackets that will clamp it onto the brace. I'll also clamp it onto the existing overflow, that way the whole thing will be removable for cleaning and I won't need to glue/silicone it in place. I still haven't decided about the teeth and about how to tap into the existing overflow. Here are my questions: 1 - what dimensions of the trough would be needed to handle about 700 GPH? The smaller the better so as not to take up too much tank space. 2 - How much of a drop is needed from left to right to ensure that the water flows steadily through the new trough into the existing vertical overflow? 3 - How thick do you think the sheet of water will be as it spills over into the trough? Thanks! Robert