tds creep?

jck9 · 12/09/2007, 08:04 AM

what does everyone do to battle their tds creep? i want to try and eliminate it if posssible so i dont go through di resin so fast. my ro/di is from the filter guys. it has the dual di setup. any help is appreciated. thanks

jck9 · 12/09/2007, 11:09 AM

anyone?

Donw · 12/09/2007, 11:12 AM

Depends on how high your incomming tds is and how it is set-up. Lots of ways to do this.

Don

AZDesertRat · 12/09/2007, 11:59 AM

Get an RO bypass valve and waste the first quart or so of water before it hits the DI. It really does not last for long and a quart might even be more than you would need to waste.

jck9 · 12/09/2007, 01:43 PM

i thought of doing that but the way. but the only problem is i have it so that the ro/di tops off the holing tank automatically with a float valve. i am moving my sump and equipment to the basemment where the ro/di is and will then auto top off my sump out of the holding tank so i will not be able to bypass the water before it runs. before my ro it is 320 after ro before the di it is 15. after the di it is 0. anymore ideas? thanks so far

Donw · 12/09/2007, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jck9
i thought of doing that but the way. but the only problem is i have it so that the ro/di tops off the holing tank automatically with a float valve. i am moving my sump and equipment to the basemment where the ro/di is and will then auto top off my sump out of the holding tank so i will not be able to bypass the water before it runs. before my ro it is 320 after ro before the di it is 15. after the di it is 0. anymore ideas? thanks so far

You could fill the holding tank with a latching type controller. You could use a pressure switch to bypass to waste. The first would be the easiest.

Don

jck9 · 12/09/2007, 03:30 PM

not exactly sure what your refering to. could you explain?

AZDesertRat · 12/09/2007, 07:55 PM

You would be better off with float switches and a solenoid. You can place the switches a good distance apart so the water has to drop significantly before the unit refills the storage vessel so TDS creep is greatly minimized. You other option is what they referred to earlier. Once your storage is full, shut the supply line off for several days again until it drops enough so when you open and refill it TDS creep is not a big problem. Float valves are a inexpensive option that does not work well if you want ultrapure water.

2thdeekay · 12/10/2007, 09:37 PM

This is what I have done. I have a 5 gallon bucket as my RODI reservoir. It has a float switch that keeps it full.

To combat TDS creep, I setup the 5 gal bucket so that it fills with new RODI water only after the bucket gets 95% emptied. This requires an enclosure for the float switch, and a one way air valve connected to the top of that enclosure. No solenoid required.

Think of the float switch enclosure as an "inverted cup in the bathtub", with a one way air valve attached at the top (bottom of cup). Do a search for "DIY anti TDS creep" If you can't find it, I can post photos.

2thdeekay · 12/12/2007, 10:35 PM

I've been using it for several months, and haven't had any issues, except for a defective air check valve. Until I replaced it, the bucket wouldn't fill all the way to the top.

When it reaches empty, water purges from the float valve enclosure, and the float valve opens. As it fills with RODI, air from the enclosure is vented thru the top via check valve, and the bucket fills till the float valve shuts. No solenoid necessary.

The toughest part was attaching the enclosure (with the float valve enclosed) to the side of the bucket, without having any water/air leaks. I used 2 zip ties thru 4 holes drille thru the threaded endcap and side of the bucket. I used epoxy to seal it from leaks. I had to patch it a couple times before getting it to have a perfect air/water seal.

Hope that helps.

2thdeekay · 12/12/2007, 11:11 PM

Correction: When I said float switch earlier, I meant float valve. Only 1 float valve & 1 air check valve is required to do this. No solenoid or electricity needed, except for a (peristaltic) pump to move water from the reservoir to the tank as needed.

I also use a ball valve on the 1/4 water line connecting the bucket to the RODI, so I can detach the reservoir if needed.

12/09/2007, 08:04 AM	#1
jck9 Moved On Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: pataskala, oh Posts: 589	tds creep? what does everyone do to battle their tds creep? i want to try and eliminate it if posssible so i dont go through di resin so fast. my ro/di is from the filter guys. it has the dual di setup. any help is appreciated. thanks

12/12/2007, 10:35 PM	#10
2thdeekay Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Boise, Idaho Posts: 663	Photos of my DIY anti-tds reservoir I've been using it for several months, and haven't had any issues, except for a defective air check valve. Until I replaced it, the bucket wouldn't fill all the way to the top. When it reaches empty, water purges from the float valve enclosure, and the float valve opens. As it fills with RODI, air from the enclosure is vented thru the top via check valve, and the bucket fills till the float valve shuts. No solenoid necessary. The toughest part was attaching the enclosure (with the float valve enclosed) to the side of the bucket, without having any water/air leaks. I used 2 zip ties thru 4 holes drille thru the threaded endcap and side of the bucket. I used epoxy to seal it from leaks. I had to patch it a couple times before getting it to have a perfect air/water seal. Hope that helps. Last edited by 2thdeekay; 12/12/2007 at 11:13 PM.

12/09/2007, 11:09 AM	#2
jck9 Moved On Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: pataskala, oh Posts: 589	anyone?

12/09/2007, 11:12 AM	#3
Donw Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 2,334	Depends on how high your incomming tds is and how it is set-up. Lots of ways to do this. Don

12/09/2007, 11:59 AM	#4
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	Get an RO bypass valve and waste the first quart or so of water before it hits the DI. It really does not last for long and a quart might even be more than you would need to waste.

12/09/2007, 01:43 PM	#5
jck9 Moved On Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: pataskala, oh Posts: 589	i thought of doing that but the way. but the only problem is i have it so that the ro/di tops off the holing tank automatically with a float valve. i am moving my sump and equipment to the basemment where the ro/di is and will then auto top off my sump out of the holding tank so i will not be able to bypass the water before it runs. before my ro it is 320 after ro before the di it is 15. after the di it is 0. anymore ideas? thanks so far

12/09/2007, 03:30 PM	#7
jck9 Moved On Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: pataskala, oh Posts: 589	not exactly sure what your refering to. could you explain?

12/09/2007, 07:55 PM	#8
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	You would be better off with float switches and a solenoid. You can place the switches a good distance apart so the water has to drop significantly before the unit refills the storage vessel so TDS creep is greatly minimized. You other option is what they referred to earlier. Once your storage is full, shut the supply line off for several days again until it drops enough so when you open and refill it TDS creep is not a big problem. Float valves are a inexpensive option that does not work well if you want ultrapure water.

12/10/2007, 09:37 PM	#9
2thdeekay Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Boise, Idaho Posts: 663	This is what I have done. I have a 5 gallon bucket as my RODI reservoir. It has a float switch that keeps it full. To combat TDS creep, I setup the 5 gal bucket so that it fills with new RODI water only after the bucket gets 95% emptied. This requires an enclosure for the float switch, and a one way air valve connected to the top of that enclosure. No solenoid required. Think of the float switch enclosure as an "inverted cup in the bathtub", with a one way air valve attached at the top (bottom of cup). Do a search for "DIY anti TDS creep" If you can't find it, I can post photos.

12/12/2007, 11:11 PM	#11
2thdeekay Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Boise, Idaho Posts: 663	Correction: When I said float switch earlier, I meant float valve. Only 1 float valve & 1 air check valve is required to do this. No solenoid or electricity needed, except for a (peristaltic) pump to move water from the reservoir to the tank as needed. I also use a ball valve on the 1/4 water line connecting the bucket to the RODI, so I can detach the reservoir if needed.