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Unread 09/07/2008, 05:05 PM   #51
Aquarist007
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tswifty8
Here's how I would like to set up the Closed Loop with the Ocean's Motions 4 way. I really like how pwhitby set up his closed loop. The ports in the back push out water from behind the rockwork, and the ports below keep the water on the bottom in continuous circulation.

The ports on the back would fire, then the ports on the bottom would fire on alternating intervals.



how many holes have to be drilled?


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Unread 09/07/2008, 05:12 PM   #52
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Those frigs put out alot of heat, I'd relocate that.
lookin good
Erik


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Unread 09/07/2008, 05:18 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally posted by capn_hylinur
how many holes have to be drilled?
3 for the overflow
2 for the closed loop intake
6 for the closed loop returns
-------------------------------------
11 Total

I'm probably just going to run the returns up over the side of the tank where they will hook into the wavy sea wavemakers.

http://www.wavysea.com/


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Unread 09/07/2008, 05:23 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tswifty8
3 for the overflow
2 for the closed loop intake
6 for the closed loop returns
-------------------------------------
11 Total

I'm probably just going to run the returns up over the side of the tank where they will hook into the wavy sea wavemakers.

http://www.wavysea.com/
that's alot of holes in the tank--you better check that out with Harold--the master driller


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Unread 09/07/2008, 05:34 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kreeger1
Those frigs put out alot of heat, I'd relocate that.
lookin good
Erik
Good point... I hadn't thought of that.

Thanks Erik.


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Unread 09/07/2008, 05:38 PM   #56
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Here's the other possible location for the tank.

There's a closet next to the tank where I would be able to house an ATO reservoir, and possibly some other things, but the majority of the stuff would need to be housed under the stand. However, in this setup temp fluctuations would not be as big of a concern.

Noise from the pumps/skimmer is my big concern if I would set the tank up here, because it's right in the living room next to the television.




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Last edited by Tswifty; 09/07/2008 at 05:48 PM.
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Unread 09/07/2008, 05:42 PM   #57
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A rough guess of how much room the tank would take up. I'd end up with abut 4" of room on each side of the tank.




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Unread 09/07/2008, 05:55 PM   #58
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I'd drill the least amount of holes possible as well, I remember drilling like 6-7 holes in a tank...on the last hole, Snap, crackle and pop.

Drilling 5 or 6 holes on the cheapo 10 dollar ebay bit is also no good IMO. If you do drill alot, get another bit and change it out after the third hole.

Hope that helps, and good luck


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Unread 09/07/2008, 06:01 PM   #59
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So much for waiting for this build huh TJ?

I'm waiting for the pictures of your local RC members coming over and helping you build this beast up like what happens so often in these big tank threads.

That does seem like a lot of holes in that tank though. Good luck!


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Unread 09/07/2008, 06:06 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kreeger1
I'd drill the least amount of holes possible as well, I remember drilling like 6-7 holes in a tank...on the last hole, Snap, crackle and pop.

Drilling 5 or 6 holes on the cheapo 10 dollar ebay bit is also no good IMO. If you do drill alot, get another bit and change it out after the third hole.

Hope that helps, and good luck
Yeah I was going to order the bits from glass-holes.com

I was also going to order a few of them for that exact reason. I wasn't sure how many holes I could expect to get out of each bit.

All the holes will be for 1" bulkheads, except I plan on making the two for the closed loop intake a bit larger. Possibly 1-1/2" or 2"

I'm going to call the local glass shop, and see if I could drop it off for them to do, or if I'll be stuck doing it myself. If I have to do it myself, the number of holes may drop significantly.


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Unread 09/07/2008, 06:10 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally posted by D to the P
So much for waiting for this build huh TJ?

I'm waiting for the pictures of your local RC members coming over and helping you build this beast up like what happens so often in these big tank threads.

That does seem like a lot of holes in that tank though. Good luck!
Well setting up the overflow, drilling holes, painting the back... That's all the cheap easy stuff.

When it comes to purchasing all the equipment I need, I predict we'll see the build slow down quite a bit.


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Unread 09/07/2008, 06:17 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tswifty8
Well setting up the overflow, drilling holes, painting the back... That's all the cheap easy stuff.

When it comes to purchasing all the equipment I need, I predict we'll see the build slow down quite a bit.
nah--there's always the girlfriend who will understand when you can't spend a quarter on her

but don't worry she's cute enough to find someone else real quick

just kidding


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Unread 09/07/2008, 06:25 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally posted by capn_hylinur
nah--there's always the girlfriend who will understand when you can't spend a quarter on her
Haha... There's only one gift she has on her mind nowadays.




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Unread 09/07/2008, 06:47 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tswifty8
3 for the overflow
2 for the closed loop intake
6 for the closed loop returns
-------------------------------------
11 Total

I'm probably just going to run the returns up over the side of the tank where they will hook into the wavy sea wavemakers.

http://www.wavysea.com/
Could you reduce the closed loop return to just 4 holes instead of six and why 3 holes for the overflow? I love redundancy, but won't 2 holes for the overflow work just fine? That would bring you down to 8 holes instead of 11.


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Unread 09/07/2008, 06:58 PM   #65
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The 3 holes in the overflow go along with BeanAnimal's plumbing system. Each hole and corresponding standpipe have a specific purpose. The system utilizes 3 standpipes in order to run silent, handle a large span of flows, and prevent basically any chance of an overflow. I currently use this system on my 90g tank.

As far as the closed loop goes. I could reduce the back to 2 holes, but I like the idea of having flow pushing out across the length of the back panel, versus just two isolated areas.


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Unread 09/07/2008, 07:09 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tswifty8
Haha... There's only one gift she has on her mind nowadays.

+ 2.3 million!!!! I wanted to read throught the whole thread and then comment, but wow wee, I couldn't help meself. Call me, and we will meet at the jewelry store. I do bling really very well!!


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Unread 09/07/2008, 07:21 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tswifty8
Yeah I was going to order the bits from glass-holes.com

I was also going to order a few of them for that exact reason. I wasn't sure how many holes I could expect to get out of each bit.

All the holes will be for 1" bulkheads, except I plan on making the two for the closed loop intake a bit larger. Possibly 1-1/2" or 2"

I'm going to call the local glass shop, and see if I could drop it off for them to do, or if I'll be stuck doing it myself. If I have to do it myself, the number of holes may drop significantly.
I like your initial layout of your closed loop except for the side by side intakes. I would move one over to the other side to even out the flow. Depending on the pump you choose to drive the CL thats alot of gph flow in a concentrated area that could cause a vortex...lol, My blueline 100HD can cause a vortex to form in my sump if the water level drops to low so their height below the surface is something to consider.
My 75g fowlr has 6 holes in the back, 2 x 1.5" and 4 x 1" in a piece of glass 24" x 48".
I would have no problems drilling the amount of holes you spoke of, if it were my tank and I had a panel 72" x 30" to play with. I find the biggest issue with drilling holes is keeping the drill and the bit perfectly vertical. If you use good quality bits they will cut an awsome groove and when the drill tips over ever so little the bit grabs and will snap a tank really quick. I like to use my 18v cordless Dewalt and let the weight of the drill do the cutting with no extra pressure. Always use two hands on the drill to steady it while drilling. The only tank I ever had an issue with is the one where I had a lack of concentration and took one hand off the drill to reach for the water. I concentrate like crazy now on keeping the drill vertical with both hands. I also really like to use my portable drill press to drill holes near the edges that are within the reach of the chuck. If the glass shops near you are anything like the ones here, they dont guarantee that they wont break the tank and then charge you $20 a hole. I'd rather do it myself and save a wad of cash. If you do buy the bits from Glass-holes.com buy the bulkheads from them as well. Their bits and bulkheads are supposed to be a really tight fit which is great since you want as much of the flange and gasket in contact with glass because its what reinforces the glass were you put the holes. You dont want a sloppy fit.


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Unread 09/07/2008, 08:03 PM   #68
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I know one of the guys I work with said that his friends were having success drilling tanks if they took a piece of PVC pipe that was bigger in diameter than the hole they wanted to drill, I think he said duct taping it to the tank (maybe a different adhesive, or no adhesive) so that the hole of the PVC corresponded with the soon to be hole of the tank, and then filling it part way with some coolant. They said the coolant kept the drill bit from heating up too much, and from what he said there were no future problems that happened in the tank that would be because of the coolant.

I've never tried it, nor do I personally know anyone whose tried it (not that this guy would lie), but I dunno if anyone here on RC can attest to whether or not that would-be/is a good idea.


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Unread 09/07/2008, 08:05 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally posted by 2frosty4u
I like your initial layout of your closed loop except for the side by side intakes. I would move one over to the other side to even out the flow. Depending on the pump you choose to drive the CL thats alot of gph flow in a concentrated area that could cause a vortex...lol, My blueline 100HD can cause a vortex to form in my sump if the water level drops to low so their height below the surface is something to consider.
My 75g fowlr has 6 holes in the back, 2 x 1.5" and 4 x 1" in a piece of glass 24" x 48".
I would have no problems drilling the amount of holes you spoke of, if it were my tank and I had a panel 72" x 30" to play with. I find the biggest issue with drilling holes is keeping the drill and the bit perfectly vertical. If you use good quality bits they will cut an awsome groove and when the drill tips over ever so little the bit grabs and will snap a tank really quick. I like to use my 18v cordless Dewalt and let the weight of the drill do the cutting with no extra pressure. Always use two hands on the drill to steady it while drilling. The only tank I ever had an issue with is the one where I had a lack of concentration and took one hand off the drill to reach for the water. I concentrate like crazy now on keeping the drill vertical with both hands. I also really like to use my portable drill press to drill holes near the edges that are within the reach of the chuck. If the glass shops near you are anything like the ones here, they dont guarantee that they wont break the tank and then charge you $20 a hole. I'd rather do it myself and save a wad of cash. If you do buy the bits from Glass-holes.com buy the bulkheads from them as well. Their bits and bulkheads are supposed to be a really tight fit which is great since you want as much of the flange and gasket in contact with glass because its what reinforces the glass were you put the holes. You dont want a sloppy fit.
I'm not sure where to place the intakes for the closed loop, or if I should use only one versus two, and how big to make the intake plumbing?

I'm thinking of using a Reeflo Snapper for the return pump, and a Reeflo Dart for the Closed Loop... possibly Reeflo Snappers for both Thoughts?

I'm guessing the closed loop pump will be pushing up 3 feet.

http://www.saltycritter.com/pumps/re...ater-pumps.htm

Never having drilled holes, I am pretty nervous about doing this. I have a few random tanks lying around that I can practice on. How much speed do you use when drilling the hole?

Here's the example I'll be working off of:

http://www.glass-holes.com/product.s...7&productId=19


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Unread 09/07/2008, 08:27 PM   #70
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haha what's with all the sound effects on that video? At first I thought I had another window open with some stupid video playing.


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Unread 09/07/2008, 08:41 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally posted by D to the P
haha what's with all the sound effects on that video? At first I thought I had another window open with some stupid video playing.
NO JOKE!!!

Teej, I am making your build m,ix tape right now! A lot of Asia inspired music, and Robo cop movie sounds. I am going to add cheer mixes too. One can never have enough of that!


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Unread 09/07/2008, 08:42 PM   #72
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Asian music......ASIAN music.


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Unread 09/07/2008, 08:56 PM   #73
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LOL.

Makes you wonder what people are thinking... and doing outside the camera's scope.


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Unread 09/07/2008, 09:15 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally posted by seanb
Could you reduce the closed loop return to just 4 holes instead of six and why 3 holes for the overflow? I love redundancy, but won't 2 holes for the overflow work just fine? That would bring you down to 8 holes instead of 11.
He is using beananimals overflow setup:

http://www.reefcentral.com/wp/?p=299


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Unread 09/07/2008, 09:25 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally posted by D to the P
haha what's with all the sound effects on that video? At first I thought I had another window open with some stupid video playing.
Quote:
Originally posted by raen
NO JOKE!!!

Teej, I am making your build m,ix tape right now! A lot of Asia inspired music, and Robo cop movie sounds. I am going to add cheer mixes too. One can never have enough of that!
Quote:
Originally posted by raen
Asian music......ASIAN music.
Quote:
Originally posted by Schwe
LOL.

Makes you wonder what people are thinking... and doing outside the camera's scope.
Who knows...


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