Building My 375gal Glass Reef - Page 39

dzhuo · 03/11/2009, 11:47 PM

that's a lot. do you think this is too much for a 150g? is there a way to dial down the flow but still silent?

GlassReef · 03/12/2009, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by dzhuo
... do you think this is too much for a 150g? is there a way to dial down the flow but still silent?

Yes, that would be too much, IMHO, for a 150gal. I used 1-1/2" pipe. You can go down to 1". Most commonly used return motors can be throttled back quite a bit. I know the Reeflo Darts, that I use, can be dialed back 60% or 70% (and more) without any problem. It's the way they're designed - watts used even goes down the less you pump.

mflamb · 03/12/2009, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by dzhuo
that's a lot. do you think this is too much for a 150g? is there a way to dial down the flow but still silent?

On a 150, I would use 1 inch pipe and a Reeflo Snapper for return. You could "T" off of the return side for reactors, chiller, etc... and have plenty of sump turnover, and could still throttle it back if necessary.

dzhuo · 03/12/2009, 01:53 PM

crap, i already have the external box drilled for 3 1.5". what about the following:

Would this give me lower turnaround? (I also asked Bean about this in another thread so hopefully someone can help me out here)

I don't have a reactors (not planning to use one at this stage, thinking about dosing pump intead) or chiller so I have nothing to T off. I can probably T off a little to the fuge but that's not much...

brucem · 03/12/2009, 02:14 PM

I think you could use a dart and still have it silent. I like a lot of turn over in my tank. Mine is barebottom so I like to get the detritus out and into the sock if possible. on my 240 I use 2" drain and have the main one half open

EnglishRebel · 03/12/2009, 02:15 PM

I don't know what Tom would suggest but I believe that you should tie the two emergencies together and separate the primaries (open and syphon), (this is what BeanAnimal told me).
Also I believe that the gate valve should be on the open drain and let the syphon run without restriction -- at least that's my understanding of his design from his web site.

dzhuo · 03/12/2009, 02:20 PM

Alan,
The reason why I have 3 1.5" holes drilled is because I was planning to use BeanAnimal's design but since I am pretty new to plumbing, I am worrying that I might not be able to set up Bean's design properly. This design I posted above isn't the same as Bean, it's a herbie design with a couple emergency drains.

I would still go with Bean's design but the huge turnover seems unnecessary because my tank is only 150g.

EnglishRebel · 03/12/2009, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by dzhuo
Alan,
The reason why I have 3 1.5" holes drilled is because I was planning to use BeanAnimal's design but since I am pretty new to plumbing, I am worrying that I might not be able to set up Bean's design properly. This design I posted above isn't the same as Bean, it's a herbie design with a couple emergency drains.

I would still go with Bean's design but the huge turnover seems unnecessary because my tank is only 150g.

Oh -- okay now I understand what you're doing. I already ran a 1-1/2" drain to my basement equipment room so that pretty much rules out a BA system. I'm going with two Dursos and two emergencies but will see what you end up with before I commit.

GlassReef · 03/12/2009, 04:04 PM

The fact that you have already drilled for 1-1/2" pipes doesn't preclude using Bean's design. The turnover through your overflow is going to be based on how much water you are pumping. If I was in your situation I would probably just add 1" > 1-1/2" adapters above the floor of your overflow box. You said you already drilled for three 1-1/2" drains. That makes:

1. syphon drain - this should have a valve, be it ball or gate. I have a ball on mine, but if I had it to do over again I'd install a gate valve - much easier to fine tune. The valve allows you to tune the drain (within reason) to the size of your pipe and the flow of your pump.

2. open channel drain - this is there any surplus water is accepted that the syphon drain can't handle. Ideally, you would adjust the valve on the syphon drain so that a little water is diverted to the open channel drain.

3. backup/failsafe drain - as the name suggests, this is for situations where one of the other drains clogs, etc.

I guess my point is - even if you have already drilled for 1-1/2" pipes - you can still use the BA design. It's just a matter of adjustment.

Mike, Alan, (or anyone else, for that matter) jump in here if you see points where I have gone wrong.

mflamb · 03/12/2009, 04:12 PM

I think you hit the nail on the head. I have 2" bulkheads with 2" 90s and 1.5 inch drain pipe, so 1.5" down to 1" should be ok.

EnglishRebel · 03/12/2009, 06:09 PM

Tom
You got it right.

and gate valves are much better than ball valves for controlling flow.

nivenethan · 03/12/2009, 06:29 PM

What are you doing for humidity & temperature control? I'm setting up a 600 gallon system in a room sealed off from the rest of house in basement. Really struggling with this.

Any advice would be awesome?

dzhuo · 03/12/2009, 08:10 PM

sounds good so basically do a 1" adapter to the 1-1/2" to the primary syphon drain? and leave the rest as 1-1/2"?

if i put a 1" adapter to the 1-1/2" how much flow reduction are we talking about here? you mention a full 1-1/2" syphon will give me more than 2000gph, how much would a 1" syphon be then?

Thx for taking the time to help me out!

GlassReef · 03/12/2009, 10:11 PM

You should have no problem draining 1500gph with 1" syphon.

bbehring · 03/13/2009, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by nivenethan
What are you doing for humidity & temperature control? I'm setting up a 600 gallon system in a room sealed off from the rest of house in basement. Really struggling with this.

Any advice would be awesome?

Nivenethan, take a look at this thread: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=917188

Cato built in his basement and had to address humidity and temp control. Plus it's a great thread!

GlassReef · 03/13/2009, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by nivenethan
What are you doing for humidity & temperature control? I'm setting up a 600 gallon system in a room sealed off from the rest of house in basement. Really struggling with this.

Any advice would be awesome?

Sorry for being so late in answering. I installed a FanTech inline fan attached to a humidistat. Air from the fishroom is evacuted to the outside. The model, specs, etc. are all a few pages back in the thread. Seems to handle my system easily. In addition, I agree with bbehring, take a look at the thread he referenced. Well worth it.

nivenethan · 03/13/2009, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GlassReef
Sorry for being so late in answering. I installed a FanTech inline fan attached to a humidistat. Air from the fishroom is evacuted to the outside. The model, specs, etc. are all a few pages back in the thread. Seems to handle my system easily. In addition, agree with bbehring, take a look at the thread he referenced. Well worth it.

Excellent...thanks guys!

bbehring · 03/13/2009, 05:00 PM

Tom, wasn't trying to hi jack your thread! I think it's the best one on here! Cato's runs a close second though!

GlassReef · 03/13/2009, 06:09 PM

Always glad to see that you have posted on my thread!

You always add something of value. Thanks!

GlassReef · 03/15/2009, 12:22 PM

Gonna start gluing up the refugium today. I figured I can't put it off any longer. I'll take a lot of pics during the process. I know it's been done, many times, before - but I thought I'd do a little "how to" series on gluing up an acrylic tank. Might help someone out there with the itch to put together a sump, fuge, or frag tank.

Also, there is some life in the display now. I'll be taking some pics later on, today. Probably post them tomorrow.

uncleof6 · 03/15/2009, 05:11 PM

I smell a thread split comming real soon......I refer others to your build thread.

Jim

GlassReef · 03/15/2009, 06:59 PM

Thanks, Jim. I can use every referral I can get!

Jhardain · 03/15/2009, 07:31 PM

Too bad I don't live down there any more, I could just drop by and see your tank.

I used to live in Springhill. About 12 yrs ago, I lived in FL for around 14-15 yrs. When I first got into fish I could buy Neon's 4 for $1.00 LOL now they are $2+ a piece. I guess that shows my age..... but still one of the best hobbies around!!

GlassReef · 03/16/2009, 10:14 AM

Yeah, I know what you mean. I had most of my saltwater tanks while I lived in Europe. I can remember when I could get really beautiful large Acropora colonies for the equivalent of $25. Of course, those days are long gone.

GlassReef · 03/16/2009, 10:33 AM

Well, I managed to get a little DIY done over the weekend. I've been trying to decide, for weeks, where to place my AC-III probes. I didn't want them in the sump because I hate bending down all the time to get at them. I thought I might put them in the Fuge, but then thought better of it since the Fuge will be quite a distance from the display. Finally the the light went on - why not put them in the overflow box? I thought that would work out pretty well because I could put the controller itself, on the back of the display tank - directly below the box.

So I put together a little probe holder out of spare 3/8" black acrylic. It holds 3 probes: temp, pH, and ORP.

I placed it in the left end of the overflow box:

This pic shows it from outside the box, but not very well, due to all the reflections:

I used Velcro to attach the AC-III and the LinkSys controller (connects the AC-III to my wireless network) to the back of the display tank, just under the OF box:

Works out real well there because the OF box protects the controller from being bumped, etc.

Please excuse all the extra wires laying around - I haven't yet sorted them out.

BTW: should anyone have a good reason not to leave the probes on the overflow, please let me know - but break it to me gently.

03/11/2009, 11:47 PM	#951
dzhuo Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 4,338	that's a lot. do you think this is too much for a 150g? is there a way to dial down the flow but still silent? __________________ One of the most frustrating thing about this hobby? The blind leading the blind.

03/12/2009, 01:53 PM	#954
dzhuo Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 4,338	crap, i already have the external box drilled for 3 1.5". what about the following: Would this give me lower turnaround? (I also asked Bean about this in another thread so hopefully someone can help me out here) I don't have a reactors (not planning to use one at this stage, thinking about dosing pump intead) or chiller so I have nothing to T off. I can probably T off a little to the fuge but that's not much... __________________ One of the most frustrating thing about this hobby? The blind leading the blind.

03/12/2009, 02:15 PM	#956
EnglishRebel Retired Rebel Reefer Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Triad NC Posts: 1,902	I don't know what Tom would suggest but I believe that you should tie the two emergencies together and separate the primaries (open and syphon), (this is what BeanAnimal told me). Also I believe that the gate valve should be on the open drain and let the syphon run without restriction -- at least that's my understanding of his design from his web site. __________________ Alan "Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few. " Sir Winston Churchill praising those young RAF pilots. August 20th 1940 Click on my name for drop down list and select "Visit EnglishRebels Home Page" for my build thread. Current Tank Info: 60x30x24 200G AO custom glass tank, basement equipment room, 30G and 55G Fuges, LifeReef sump & 30" skimmer.

03/12/2009, 02:20 PM	#957
dzhuo Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 4,338	Alan, The reason why I have 3 1.5" holes drilled is because I was planning to use BeanAnimal's design but since I am pretty new to plumbing, I am worrying that I might not be able to set up Bean's design properly. This design I posted above isn't the same as Bean, it's a herbie design with a couple emergency drains. I would still go with Bean's design but the huge turnover seems unnecessary because my tank is only 150g. __________________ One of the most frustrating thing about this hobby? The blind leading the blind.

03/12/2009, 04:04 PM	#959
GlassReef Got Reef Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Weeki Wachee, Florida Posts: 2,501	The fact that you have already drilled for 1-1/2" pipes doesn't preclude using Bean's design. The turnover through your overflow is going to be based on how much water you are pumping. If I was in your situation I would probably just add 1" > 1-1/2" adapters above the floor of your overflow box. You said you already drilled for three 1-1/2" drains. That makes: 1. syphon drain - this should have a valve, be it ball or gate. I have a ball on mine, but if I had it to do over again I'd install a gate valve - much easier to fine tune. The valve allows you to tune the drain (within reason) to the size of your pipe and the flow of your pump. 2. open channel drain - this is there any surplus water is accepted that the syphon drain can't handle. Ideally, you would adjust the valve on the syphon drain so that a little water is diverted to the open channel drain. 3. backup/failsafe drain - as the name suggests, this is for situations where one of the other drains clogs, etc. I guess my point is - even if you have already drilled for 1-1/2" pipes - you can still use the BA design. It's just a matter of adjustment. Mike, Alan, (or anyone else, for that matter) jump in here if you see points where I have gone wrong. __________________ Tom No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.

03/12/2009, 02:14 PM	#955
brucem Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: seminole florida Posts: 673	I think you could use a dart and still have it silent. I like a lot of turn over in my tank. Mine is barebottom so I like to get the detritus out and into the sock if possible. on my 240 I use 2" drain and have the main one half open

03/12/2009, 04:12 PM	#960
mflamb Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Pasadena, Texas Posts: 8,422	I think you hit the nail on the head. I have 2" bulkheads with 2" 90s and 1.5 inch drain pipe, so 1.5" down to 1" should be ok. __________________ Click on my red house to see my 390 and 300 build thread. Those are my last 2 tanks in Tampa. Now in Pasadena waiting to buy a house to set up my next tank....anemones and clowns...probably a 3x3 150 gallon.

03/12/2009, 06:09 PM	#961
EnglishRebel Retired Rebel Reefer Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Triad NC Posts: 1,902	Tom You got it right. and gate valves are much better than ball valves for controlling flow. __________________ Alan "Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few. " Sir Winston Churchill praising those young RAF pilots. August 20th 1940 Click on my name for drop down list and select "Visit EnglishRebels Home Page" for my build thread. Current Tank Info: 60x30x24 200G AO custom glass tank, basement equipment room, 30G and 55G Fuges, LifeReef sump & 30" skimmer.

03/12/2009, 06:29 PM	#962
nivenethan Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Des Moines, IA Posts: 251	What are you doing for humidity & temperature control? I'm setting up a 600 gallon system in a room sealed off from the rest of house in basement. Really struggling with this. Any advice would be awesome? __________________ Darren Current Tank Info: 300 gal *******, 8 AI Sol White, 100 g lps tank tied to main system w/ 2 Radions,BK SM300, Apex, Geo 624 Ca, Avast kalk stirrer, BRS jumbo GFO, BRS Jumbo Carbon, lots of ColeParmer peristaltic pumps, 2MP60ES, 2MP40ES, 250 gal MRC custom sump

03/12/2009, 08:10 PM	#963
dzhuo Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 4,338	sounds good so basically do a 1" adapter to the 1-1/2" to the primary syphon drain? and leave the rest as 1-1/2"? if i put a 1" adapter to the 1-1/2" how much flow reduction are we talking about here? you mention a full 1-1/2" syphon will give me more than 2000gph, how much would a 1" syphon be then? Thx for taking the time to help me out! __________________ One of the most frustrating thing about this hobby? The blind leading the blind.

03/12/2009, 10:11 PM	#964
GlassReef Got Reef Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Weeki Wachee, Florida Posts: 2,501	You should have no problem draining 1500gph with 1" syphon. __________________ Tom No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.

03/13/2009, 05:00 PM	#968
bbehring Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Hemet, California Posts: 917	Tom, wasn't trying to hi jack your thread! I think it's the best one on here! Cato's runs a close second though!

03/13/2009, 06:09 PM	#969
GlassReef Got Reef Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Weeki Wachee, Florida Posts: 2,501	Always glad to see that you have posted on my thread! You always add something of value. Thanks! __________________ Tom No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.

03/15/2009, 12:22 PM	#970
GlassReef Got Reef Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Weeki Wachee, Florida Posts: 2,501	Gonna start gluing up the refugium today. I figured I can't put it off any longer. I'll take a lot of pics during the process. I know it's been done, many times, before - but I thought I'd do a little "how to" series on gluing up an acrylic tank. Might help someone out there with the itch to put together a sump, fuge, or frag tank. Also, there is some life in the display now. I'll be taking some pics later on, today. Probably post them tomorrow. __________________ Tom No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.

03/15/2009, 05:11 PM	#971
uncleof6 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: AWOL Posts: 12,013	I smell a thread split comming real soon......I refer others to your build thread. Jim __________________ "Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor) Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef

03/15/2009, 06:59 PM	#972
GlassReef Got Reef Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Weeki Wachee, Florida Posts: 2,501	Thanks, Jim. I can use every referral I can get! __________________ Tom No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.

03/15/2009, 07:31 PM	#973
Jhardain Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: GA Posts: 102	Too bad I don't live down there any more, I could just drop by and see your tank. I used to live in Springhill. About 12 yrs ago, I lived in FL for around 14-15 yrs. When I first got into fish I could buy Neon's 4 for $1.00 LOL now they are $2+ a piece. I guess that shows my age..... but still one of the best hobbies around!! __________________ When I hit the lottery, I am buiding a house around a tank the size of the Chattanooga or Atlanta Aquarium. Now that would rock! :) Current Tank Info: 220G Reef System 125G Display, 55G Frag Tank, Several Smaller Separate tanks and Phyto station in garage.

03/16/2009, 10:14 AM	#974
GlassReef Got Reef Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Weeki Wachee, Florida Posts: 2,501	Yeah, I know what you mean. I had most of my saltwater tanks while I lived in Europe. I can remember when I could get really beautiful large Acropora colonies for the equivalent of $25. Of course, those days are long gone. __________________ Tom No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.

03/16/2009, 10:33 AM	#975
GlassReef Got Reef Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Weeki Wachee, Florida Posts: 2,501	Well, I managed to get a little DIY done over the weekend. I've been trying to decide, for weeks, where to place my AC-III probes. I didn't want them in the sump because I hate bending down all the time to get at them. I thought I might put them in the Fuge, but then thought better of it since the Fuge will be quite a distance from the display. Finally the the light went on - why not put them in the overflow box? I thought that would work out pretty well because I could put the controller itself, on the back of the display tank - directly below the box. So I put together a little probe holder out of spare 3/8" black acrylic. It holds 3 probes: temp, pH, and ORP. I placed it in the left end of the overflow box: This pic shows it from outside the box, but not very well, due to all the reflections: I used Velcro to attach the AC-III and the LinkSys controller (connects the AC-III to my wireless network) to the back of the display tank, just under the OF box: Works out real well there because the OF box protects the controller from being bumped, etc. Please excuse all the extra wires laying around - I haven't yet sorted them out. BTW: should anyone have a good reason not to leave the probes on the overflow, please let me know - but break it to me gently. __________________ Tom No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.