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Old 04/29/2005, 04:39 PM   #51
jaze36
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nice work!


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Old 04/29/2005, 10:20 PM   #52
reefkeeper59
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Every pipe has union's for quick removal. System's can be moved and reasembled without tools and no cutting of any plumbing.


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Old 04/29/2005, 10:46 PM   #53
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Hehe, very nice. Unions are possibly the best thing since sliced bread.


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Old 04/30/2005, 12:15 AM   #54
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I have had an idea similar to this. But my motivation was to do heavy feedings with marine snow, phyto, and other nutrients. The system would be closed but you could raise the food particles per particles of water ratio to get great growth, but not pollute your nice display tank. This would work really well I think for sun corals and such. Of course you're talking about frequent water changes on this system and good filtration, both mechanical and biological. Just my .02


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Old 04/30/2005, 03:15 AM   #55
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dogstar74

The advantage of the hang on or the one I have (on top of 240) or any addition to a main system is that you get the filtration from the main unit while gaining space. Although the concept of the feeding for growth is definetly good thinking. Now can these two concepts be combined?

Your idea may be valid if the main system can hold the remaining bioload from the excess food, nutrient dosing (eliminating the need for a water change). If the corals in the remote holding container can consume the majority of the supplements (while shut off from main system) and the remaining then being circulated within the entire system consumed by the remaining corals (which I have 500 corals) , skimmed and also consumed by refugium media, that may be a good idea.

My system is perfect for that test. I have a valve that regulates the flow to the frag tank. I could shut it off from main system (frag tank has two 200gph powerheads for circulation), feed and then circulate to main system after specified time. I've actually done that, but only slowed the flow down to a trickle. I didn't have the two small powerheads in there then. I was also concerned about the heat next to 1250watts of MH. I could turn on the two lights at the ends during this specified time and watch temp in frag tank.

HMMMMMMMM. Selective feeding. Time for a stick on thermometer.

Thanks dogstar74


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Old 04/30/2005, 03:27 AM   #56
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Wow, that's a great idea!


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Old 04/30/2005, 07:25 AM   #57
Richard Francis
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shoestring Reefer
Interesting idea. I wonder if plastic rain gutters could be used. They wouldn't be clear, but that's no biggie IMO if they are for frags.
Then how do you light them?


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Old 04/30/2005, 10:37 AM   #58
tomviolence
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very clean work. I second richard how are you going to light it?


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Old 04/30/2005, 01:29 PM   #59
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Interesting idea. I wonder if plastic rain gutters could be used. They wouldn't be clear, but that's no biggie IMO if they are for frags.

same as the race tracks.

gutter was a fast cheap and easy idea for someone who doesnt have access to tools or the knowhow/capability


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Old 05/26/2005, 08:54 PM   #60
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I don't do much with acrylic but, I think I might convert from my 55 gallon frag setup to two or three of these made out of glass on the wall instead.

Dremel drilling glass has become an easy task after a lot of practice and I cheap source for 1/4" glass.

Would requite a lot less light and be easier to reach the frags to move them.

Thanks for the ideas!

speakeraddict


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Old 09/03/2005, 09:29 AM   #61
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Any update on the runners after ~ year?


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Old 09/03/2005, 09:36 AM   #62
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i like it, i like it a lot.......


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Old 09/03/2005, 09:40 AM   #63
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You mean you like the idea, or you made one and it is working good for you?


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Old 09/03/2005, 09:50 AM   #64
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Good fabrication, how do you feel about the flow in there?


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Old 09/03/2005, 11:57 PM   #65
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They are still holding up well- I added center braces a long time ago, they really needed it.

I think I'd put a piece of 1/2" plywood under them next time, just to be extra safe.

My flow rate is lower than desired, because I don't have enough pump on them. I was planning on putting a power head in each one that ran the water back to the other end, but never got around to it.

Zeph


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Old 09/04/2005, 08:05 AM   #66
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Are you able to clean in there?

Glad to hear they are still going!


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Old 09/10/2005, 11:35 AM   #67
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Cleaning is a little tough- I leave about 8" clear at one end, and start there. Cleaning that section then sliding everything down.

I have to admit- I mostly just let the algae grow on the front of them. They are not for viewing (much) but for growing.

Zeph


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Old 09/10/2005, 11:46 AM   #68
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These look really great and functional.
Thanks for the information.

Steve


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Old 09/27/2005, 11:03 AM   #69
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I found this on another web site and had posted a link and was pointed to here. I like the idea, i will have to try it.


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Old 09/27/2005, 12:19 PM   #70
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Have you thought about putting a powerhead on each tank where the water leaves blowing in the opposite direction. If you put them on a wave timer blowing against the incoming current, it could generate a surge type current when the powerhead shuts off. OF course it cant be to powerful that it doesnt let water leave the tank, and a way to make sure the one end doesnt overfill would be a good idea, but it could work.


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Old 09/30/2005, 10:13 PM   #71
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That's a good idea- My original plan was to plumb in a Mag 2 or larger in each one, that pulled water from one end and piped it to the other end, to increase flow. Just never took the trouble.


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Old 10/25/2005, 01:35 PM   #72
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Zeph... I found a link to this from the Barr Aquatic site. I have a question: Have you checked this in the event of a Power Outage? It looks to me like the water would want to back siphon out of the upper raceway down to the level of the input at the far left leaving the tank nearly empty. You have a check valve installed? You could modify the input of the pump from the sump into the raceway to drop the water into the long tank or input the water at or very near the upper limit of the height of the water in the tank. This should keep the back siphon to a minimum.
Great idea though... I love it. Just wait til the wife goes out of town next


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Old 10/30/2005, 12:55 PM   #73
Zephrant
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Howdy- But of course. I added plumbing as you suggest right after these pictures were taken.

Everything is carefully tested for a power fail situation, as I stop the main pump once a month or so for water changes. I try not to rely on a check valve as they are not 100% fail proof, but I do have one large one in the system. If it fails, the system will draw down the main tank a few inches extra, but not drain it.

Update:

About two weeks ago I took them off line. I've upgraded my lighting to MH, and can't run just two VHOs on my ballast (have to run all four). I was getting a lot of detritus in them, and algae growth too. I moved everything back to the main tank under the MH.

I have not decided what to do with them yet- Maybe make a non-lighted rock area, or a settlement filter out of them.

Zeph


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Old 10/30/2005, 01:26 PM   #74
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aptasia filter


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Old 10/30/2005, 07:44 PM   #75
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Dendrophyllia zone, with a smattering of suncorals.


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