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04/10/2007, 01:23 PM | #1 |
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This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...78#post9692378
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04/10/2007, 01:23 PM | #2 |
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Has anyone tried using stucco? If so... what were the results? I would think it wouldn't be as porous.. but I'm not 100% sure on that.
I'm also not sure if it would need to be handled like the portland cement mixes for kuring times or not... |
04/10/2007, 01:25 PM | #3 |
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This makes split 3 does it not??
Go go fake rocks! On a side note, if anyone wants to see (or wants more info on) how I make the fake tunnels during my next batch I will document the process and get details of the weed eater string size.
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04/10/2007, 01:31 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
Yinepu: Not sure. This is 100% my opinion, but I wouldn't use stucco. Azazael13: Sure! Enlighten us!
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Travis Stevens Current Tank Info: Restarting 28g Bowfront |
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04/10/2007, 01:44 PM | #5 |
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made my first batch today.
was quite fun i have some ideas i am going to try and then post for tunnels etc.
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04/10/2007, 01:45 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
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04/10/2007, 01:47 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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Travis Stevens Current Tank Info: Restarting 28g Bowfront |
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04/10/2007, 01:48 PM | #8 |
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I am a little confused by something.. it was mentioned earlier on to leave the rocks out of water for the first few weeks to a month.. but the ones with salt need to soak to remove the salt crystals deep inside the rock..
Will the few weeks of soaking them remove most of the salt inside (assuming they are only soaked for aproximately two weeks)? Or is it better to soak them longer just to be on the safe side? |
04/10/2007, 01:49 PM | #9 | |
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04/10/2007, 01:56 PM | #10 |
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Yinepu:
go back to the page before this one. Then read Travis' summary, it's really good. THEN read Insane Reefer's thorough 'points and tips' that Travis suggests. If you can get thru all of it, there's lots of info on it. This is 95% of what you need to know. I like a 1:1:2 ratio of cement: tank sand : Mortons Water Softener salt found at Lowe's or Home Depot, blue bag. Congrats Travis! on a side note, our kid #2 is due on Thursday. I have some rock that's been curing in salt for 6 days. I'll be busy for a little while, obviously. Opinions, please: should i start to Kure the rock now, after 7 days, or should I just let it Cure in the salt for another two weeks, probably? Honestly, I don't know how often I'll be able to change water during these next couple of weeks. Thanks everyone! -G. |
04/10/2007, 01:58 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
btw.. congrats! |
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04/10/2007, 02:01 PM | #12 |
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thanks - yeah, busy. AND my 8.9 month pregnant wife is watching me make live rock in the garage, wondering when I'm going to get all preparations done for kid#2!!
talk about a peeved pregnant lady |
04/10/2007, 02:01 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
A typical cycle is this (for me anywa) 1) Make rocks on a Saturday. 2) Have my wife slap me when I walk towards the mold to check on them for at least 5 days. 3) Thursday to Following Saturday: During this point I will take the rocks from mold (longer wait for bigger rocks) and then submerse them. 4) One week from first submerge change water. 5) One week later change again. 6) For the next two weeks I change every 3-4 days. 7) After one month check PH. 8 - ???) Not sure what goes here yet Fin) Place rocks in tank and let the life grow. Now I open this up to TLS or IR to point out the error in my ways. Oh something else I am doing, after the 3 week point I am separating out my rocks into separate containers. I would like to think that small rocks will be ready before the big ones, so this way I can tell individual rocks and know when they are ready. All of my water changes are in normal water as well, don't have my RO/DI yet, however my final water soak will be in store bought RO/DI I think.
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04/10/2007, 02:11 PM | #14 |
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Yinepu: It's your personal preference. I would suggest longer, but it will take some trial and error to get right to find out how long it will take for the salt to completely come out of the rocks.
goldmaniac: Congratualtions and Good Luck! I would pull the rock from the salt mold and let it stand for another week or so before soaking to bring the pH down. Azazael13: There are so many variances that it is difficul to tell how long it will take. As far as your procedures, you're right on except one thing. Since there is ample amount of Ca(OH)2 with newly made rocks, you're better off changing the water more often at first and less often towards the end. In fact, this could theoretically speed up your specific process.
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Travis Stevens Current Tank Info: Restarting 28g Bowfront |
04/10/2007, 02:14 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
However I know my rocks are getting close because the water is looking less and less 'yucky'
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Percula Clownfish Current Tank Info: 2 foot cube (Salt) and 35G Hex (Fresh) |
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04/10/2007, 02:17 PM | #16 |
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Wow, this has been quite a busy day for the DIY rock thread!
I should be chiming in shortly with some of my own results & the weather is getting good enough to start making some more
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04/10/2007, 02:32 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
I will be making some rocks this weekend.. so I'll be sure to post my recipe and what all I do as well as any results! I already have the portland cement type I/II play sand crushed oyster shell crushed coral still need to get some salt... |
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04/10/2007, 02:37 PM | #18 |
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I have another question... for those who make caves using the rubber glove/balloon method; have you noticed the insides of the caves being very smooth?... or does the salt manage to give them some texture?
I am guessing the amount of smoothness would depend on the wetness of the mix... but rocks I have seen using the balloon/glove for making the caves all look fake when you look inside the caves... (outside = rough... inside = too smooth and man made). Granted the rocks I have seen in person didn't appear to have salt in the mix... so that may have had something to do with it... |
04/10/2007, 02:41 PM | #19 |
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No salt in the mix has a large portion of what happens with smooth ness, but gloves and balloons will always look manmade when you pull them out. No real way around that except to use a sand or salt mold to make the caves out of.
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Travis Stevens Current Tank Info: Restarting 28g Bowfront |
04/10/2007, 02:54 PM | #20 |
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ah... gotcha!
Thanks again! |
04/10/2007, 04:22 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
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Percula Clownfish Current Tank Info: 2 foot cube (Salt) and 35G Hex (Fresh) |
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04/10/2007, 05:45 PM | #22 |
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MDMS The info you want about hydraulics is here:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=993625 Disregard the thread title
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04/10/2007, 05:46 PM | #23 |
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Travis,
Glad the move went well, sorry it had to happen though - sudden moves stink. Nice write-up - covers the basics pretty concisely.
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------------------------------------- 'Ocean is more ancient than the mountains, and freighted with the memories and the dreams of Time.' Current Tank Info: Oceanic Biocube 8 |
04/10/2007, 07:03 PM | #24 |
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I have a question regarding DIY Rock. If you wanted all your rock to be DIY rock, would there be a way to seed it? Is there a site that sells the typical creatures you'd get with live rock, but without having to buy live rock?
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04/10/2007, 07:13 PM | #25 |
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You could get someone that has DIY rock thats already established and get some from them. At some point it has to be started with already live rock. Your wanting the coralline algae more than the critters the critters usually come with things you pick up along the way.
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