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Unread 02/18/2018, 03:34 PM   #2226
slief
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtraylor View Post
Anyone seen the GHL LX7's vs the GHL 6300's (Lx6's with LX7 pucks). Wondering how well the power balancing works on the LX7's...how much more light can you get out of the LX7
Power balancing works very well! While I haven’t compared the 6300 to the LX7, I do have a 6200 that was over one of my tanks before I switched to the LX7. How much more light you gain depends on your settings but if you figure that you will never use channels like white, red, green or UV at full power, having the ability to shift that power over to channels you actually use can pay dividends. Especially if you really need to crank the lights up to get the most out of them. Having run both the 6200 and the LX7’s, it’s a no brainer for me since I only had one 6200 and needed several new lights over my main display. LX7 was the best and only choice. I suppose if I had a bunch of 6200’s I might have played with the LX7 clusters but even then, I think I would have gone with the LX7’s.


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Unread 02/21/2018, 07:07 AM   #2227
CWR24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mako61 View Post
I just mounted my lx7s. I made the mount myself out of 8020 series 10. By just luck the wire fits snuggly into the slot. Im pretty happy with how it came out.

I have them 13 inches over my tank. Im not sure if that is good for a 60x22x22 tank. I think it may be a little high. I can move them down, but i kinda like having the space. Still playing with the color I have it set pretty blue.

Mako.......your mount and idea look awesome!!

I am setting up a Reefer 350 and just purchased 2 new GHL Mitras LX7's and want to mount them this way.
Was gonna also get the standard GHL mounts but figured to poke around first and see what other guys came up with.

Would it be possible for you to provide me in detail a parts list of things I would need to accomplish this?
I saw you used the company 8020 and gave their site a looking over, but I'm admittedly not the sharpest DIY'er and get confused looking at all those parts.

Also, did you use any special part or bracket between the light itself and the arm it's mounted to? As it appears that theres something there but can't tell what it is in pictures.

Thanks in advance for any insight you can give........Craig.


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Unread 02/21/2018, 07:18 AM   #2228
CWR24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WCKDVPR View Post
M4 and the bolt holes are 17 cm apart.

I did an fully adjustable mounting system using 8020, with the 1020 profile.



Got my lights running today. How do I turn on the lunar lighting and program/turn on the clouds?

Thanks!
Great looking setup buddy!!

I just bought a pair of the GHL Mitras myself and will be using them on a Reefer 350 that's 48" long.
If I were to mount these from front to back like you did instead of side to side, do you think they will provide enough coverage from left to right for my size setup?

I really like the look of yours, and another reefer the page before had his done sideways......and both seem like solid options.

Would it be possible for you to provide me a detailed parts list of what you ordered off of 8020, along with any extras I might need that weren't from their site?

Any info and help would be much appreciated.

Thanks.......Craig


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Unread 03/05/2018, 02:34 PM   #2229
CWR24
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Can you tell me what kind of mounts you used for your GHL Mitras?

Just received my order last week and want some mounting ideas/options.

Thanks, Craig


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Unread 03/05/2018, 02:38 PM   #2230
CWR24
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GHL mounts

Quote:
Originally Posted by ReefClownMIA View Post
So who is excited for the upcoming LX7's ?





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Are these the standard GHL Mitras mounts or something non-GHL that I would need? And additional mounting hardware to hold them like that??

Just received my 2 Mitras for my Reefer 350 last week and considering mounting them sideways instead of forward facing for more left to right coverage.

Thanks to any help anyone can provide soon as I'm looking to get things ordered and mounted.


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Unread 03/05/2018, 05:41 PM   #2231
slief
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CWR24 View Post
Are these the standard GHL Mitras mounts or something non-GHL that I would need? And additional mounting hardware to hold them like that??

Just received my 2 Mitras for my Reefer 350 last week and considering mounting them sideways instead of forward facing for more left to right coverage.

Thanks to any help anyone can provide soon as I'm looking to get things ordered and mounted.
Those are discontinued 8020 mounts. You could use the GHL Flex mounts and then add an Articulating Mount to the Flex Mount to rotate and angle them.


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Unread 03/05/2018, 07:23 PM   #2232
CWR24
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Thanks so much for your input on this Slief......it's much appreciated.

I had seen you had mentioned those when I was looking over your thread a week or two ago and wasn't sure if the articulating mounts were a GHL product or after market.

My Reefer 350 and Mitra lights are all black, and I would like the mounts to be all black as well if possible.
So in the other posts above that I sent messages on but didn't get any feedback......where the other 2 guys used the 8020 product, can I use the articulating mounts you suggest on the 8020.....or won't it fit/fasten in the tracks?
Not sure if you are familiar with that stuff and would know.

Thanks again for responding as I wanted to send you a PM, but being new on here and not having enough messages, it would not let me PM anyone.


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Unread 03/05/2018, 07:32 PM   #2233
scuzy
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Are you need to do is drill a hole in the 8020 profile and put a long enough screw in with washer. Think the screws are m8 threaded.


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Unread 03/05/2018, 08:54 PM   #2234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CWR24 View Post
Thanks so much for your input on this Slief......it's much appreciated.

I had seen you had mentioned those when I was looking over your thread a week or two ago and wasn't sure if the articulating mounts were a GHL product or after market.

My Reefer 350 and Mitra lights are all black, and I would like the mounts to be all black as well if possible.
So in the other posts above that I sent messages on but didn't get any feedback......where the other 2 guys used the 8020 product, can I use the articulating mounts you suggest on the 8020.....or won't it fit/fasten in the tracks?
Not sure if you are familiar with that stuff and would know.

Thanks again for responding as I wanted to send you a PM, but being new on here and not having enough messages, it would not let me PM anyone.
The mounts work great with any T Slot alumina extrusion just like those from 8020. You just use carriage bolts to slide into the T slot and then nuts on the articulating mount button or the nuts that you can get from 8020 that go into the T slot and matching screws from the outside to hold the articulating button in place.

This is a rack I built for a customer using his existing lights and some T slot extrusion I had laying around. These are mounts from the same source mounted to T slot extrusions similar to thiose available from 8020. The slot is the same and in this case, I used carriage bolts. If I were to do it again, I would likely use the nuts that go into the extrusion instead of the carriage bolts.





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Current Tank Info: 480G display mixed reef, 90G sump, 90G refugium, 60G display refugium. Check out my build thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1783476
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Unread 03/05/2018, 10:07 PM   #2235
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@Craig sorry i missed your post/questions.

I created basically an adapter plate out of black acrylic. Its 9 x 1.5 inches 3/8 thick. It has 4 holes 2 go to rail and 2 go to light. The rail and light holes are close to each other so it doesnt flex the acrylic. I had the plate made at tapplastics. They rounded the corners and polished the edges for me. I drilled the holes myself to make ordering easier. ( I got 4 in case I messed up)

I used black plastic spacers and metal screws from bolt depot to attach light to plate and plate to rail. It all works very well. If you are interested I can show some close ups.

I think the ability to change the angle like steve would be nice, but I needed something a lot more elegant. These are exposed in my living room. I added a third light since that pic, so series 10 8020 is plenty string.


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Unread 03/06/2018, 08:24 AM   #2236
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Thanks for reaching out Mako.....

I also will be using in the living room and want things looking nice.

If you can send some various pics that would be great!! Maybe of that black acrylic you used and the positioning of screw holes.
And for the 8020 pieces I am assuming you mounted it to the backside of the stand.....or did you buy those pieces to make a base? I was curious if those probably would not be weighted enough at the bottom to keep everything in place.

Also did you use the 10 Series 2" X 1" for both the mount going up n down as well as the piece over the tank holding the light? Or is it the 1" X 1"?

Another thought was if using 8020 if you are able to lower or raise the light if needed or are you stuck with it at a certain height?

Much thanks for your time......Craig


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Unread 03/06/2018, 08:27 AM   #2237
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Solid ideas and help my friend......I think my light is starting to go on now!!

Nice work btw on that rack. And for helping with mu questions. Hope you don't mind me hitting you up if I need anything else clarified.


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Unread 03/06/2018, 03:10 PM   #2238
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That shows the three lights currently.

here are a few close up - warning I didnt resize these

https://i.imgur.com/P3q2G0Q.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6hE9qyc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/aQwcRoe.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lSMu16H.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nKBffT6.jpg?1


The 2 Up parts and the 2 arm parts are 1x2 t-slot. The front cross member is 1x1 with slots on three side so the front edge doesnt have a slot. There are 2 cross members in the back that are 1x1. They help it stay square when slide up and down and attaching.

The last image shows the acrylic piece I have extra and few spare parts. Note that I didnt use that black nylon washer. I order a few different sizes of spacer they fit inside each other to get the diameter I wanted. The center screw holds the weight the nylon spacer is for spacing. ( and looks) You need enough space/seperation to get a little allen wrench in to tighten once you slide the light into place.

The picture of the back shows how I connected to the stand. I offset it a bit with stacked 3-1x6 wood glued parts so I can clean glass etc. The mistake I made is I should have done 2 sets of blocks and made the up/down arm longer. That block flexs the stand a bit because of the torsion ( it wants to spin). 2 block 18ish inches apart would be better with the anchor on each block instead of both on the same block. This will adjust in height. It can also adjust front to back a little since the top forward arm sits on top of the up t-slot. I ended up all way forward - i made the arm 1 inch longer that ideal. In the end the lights can adjust up/down, forward/back and left/right. They cant spin or change angle.

The acrylic is 1/4 not 3/8 like I said early. Also the 2 holes on the acrylic could be a little closer. The farther they are apart the more flex it puts on the acrylic. If they are close it wants to shear ( which it cant) instead of bend/flex. Thats why I have 2 anchors to the t-slot not one in the middle -- that would flex for sure.

anyway thats what I did...


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Current Tank Info: Returning Reefer - Red Sea 525XL, Mitras LX7s, Apex, check homepage for vids of tank
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Unread 03/07/2018, 02:58 AM   #2239
CWR24
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First of all.......nice looking tank and quite the job on the mount. Looks really sleek and great!!
Thanks for taking the time on the detailed breakdown along with the pics, gives me a better idea on how to piece things together and how the parts work.
I'll see what I can come up with moving forward. I would like to incorporate your ideas along with those articulating mounts that Slief uses in some way.

Appreciate your time in doing so.......Craig


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Unread 04/05/2018, 03:09 PM   #2240
dirtrider225
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For a mixed tank favoring lps, softies and anemones (48lx30wx20h) will 2 lx7's be enough? I plan on mounting them around ~10 inches above the water or so. They also will be mounted perpendicular to the front pane of glass l l and not parallel


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Unread 04/05/2018, 03:35 PM   #2241
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Should be OK just keep sps closer in the central zone


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Unread 05/18/2018, 04:27 PM   #2242
CWR24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slief View Post
The mounts work great with any T Slot alumina extrusion just like those from 8020. You just use carriage bolts to slide into the T slot and then nuts on the articulating mount button or the nuts that you can get from 8020 that go into the T slot and matching screws from the outside to hold the articulating button in place.

This is a rack I built for a customer using his existing lights and some T slot extrusion I had laying around. These are mounts from the same source mounted to T slot extrusions similar to thiose available from 8020. The slot is the same and in this case, I used carriage bolts. If I were to do it again, I would likely use the nuts that go into the extrusion instead of the carriage bolts.



Hey Slief........if you or any of the guys out there see this and can help me out it would be appreciated.
GHL evidently doesn't find it necessary to include any instructions whatsoever with their mounting brackets.

Looking for how and where these are to be exactly used.

Thanks.......Craig


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Unread 05/18/2018, 05:46 PM   #2243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CWR24 View Post
Hey Slief........if you or any of the guys out there see this and can help me out it would be appreciated.
GHL evidently doesn't find it necessary to include any instructions whatsoever with their mounting brackets.

Looking for how and where these are to be exactly used.

Thanks.......Craig

Your image didn’t show up but I got your PM. Here are a couple pictures I just took for you since I have a flex mount here.

In a nutshell, the nut with the tab goes into the extrusion. You need to compress the tab a bit as you slip the nut into the slot. The tab holds the nut in place and keeps it from sliding out when you insert the bolt with the thumb screw through the stand and into the nut in the extrusion.

Drill two holes in the stand, slip nuts into the extrusion at the same spacing as the holes in the stand. Insert bolts with thumb screws through the stand and into the nuts inside the extrusion and tighten.

These pictures should make it pretty clear. I inserted the thumb screw assembly just so you can see how that all goes together.

This is the nut on the thumb screw.



This shows the orientation of the nut in the extrusion.



The nut inside the extrusion.


Nut in the extrusion with the thumb screw/bolt inserted.



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Current Tank Info: 480G display mixed reef, 90G sump, 90G refugium, 60G display refugium. Check out my build thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1783476
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Unread 05/20/2018, 09:50 PM   #2244
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Just joined the Mitras club with 4x L7206's over my 150g, 5x2x2. So far, so good. My only issue is that the keys on one unit won't light up or work very well. I've tried doing the key calibration but it doesn't help the issue. Any suggestions?


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Unread 05/21/2018, 03:44 PM   #2245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJoFan View Post
Just joined the Mitras club with 4x L7206's over my 150g, 5x2x2. So far, so good. My only issue is that the keys on one unit won't light up or work very well. I've tried doing the key calibration but it doesn't help the issue. Any suggestions?
Send me a PM, please, with the details.

-Marco


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Unread 05/23/2018, 08:16 PM   #2246
KJoFan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco@GHLUSA View Post
Send me a PM, please, with the details.

-Marco
PM sent


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Unread 06/22/2018, 03:55 PM   #2247
brianmsu80
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What controllability do you have over the built-in LCD display on the Mitras LX7206?

Can you dim it? Can you also schedule for it to go on and off at certain times?


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Unread 06/22/2018, 06:03 PM   #2248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianmsu80 View Post
What controllability do you have over the built-in LCD display on the Mitras LX7206?

Can you dim it? Can you also schedule for it to go on and off at certain times?
According to the manual...
Display bright (0% - 100%) determines the display brightness during the day
Display dark (0% - 100%) determines the brightness of the display at night
Display dark Start and End determine the time in which the display is to be dimmed.


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Unread 08/13/2018, 04:12 PM   #2249
CWR24
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Hey there Slief......been awhile, I think I replied via email to you before. But just in case I wanted to say thank you again for the previous help with advice and pics.
Was revisiting the thread and didn't reply back on here.

Take care.....Craig


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Unread 08/13/2018, 04:50 PM   #2250
slief
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Originally Posted by CWR24 View Post
Hey there Slief......been awhile, I think I replied via email to you before. But just in case I wanted to say thank you again for the previous help with advice and pics.
Was revisiting the thread and didn't reply back on here.

Take care.....Craig



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For All Royal Exclusiv & Bubble King questions please refer to our Sponsor forum: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/fo...play.php?f=745

Current Tank Info: 480G display mixed reef, 90G sump, 90G refugium, 60G display refugium. Check out my build thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1783476
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