My New Tank Came and Problem Already

[JMorris271]

Hi Guys
The 120gal Deep Blue dual overflow tank I ordered came this morning and already I have a question.
I will be putting in a Herbie system and was thinking that the emergency drain would be 1.25 inches. The regular drain was to be 1 inch. I am tempted to use the 1.75 asthe main drain but I have been told better.
The Regular drain is cut for a .75" instead of 1"that I was expecting. Will .75 be too little drainage given that I will have 2 drains; one .75" drain in each corner?
I will merge the each .75 tube/pipe into one 1.5" pipe going into the sump Skimmer Chamber
I see no advantage to increase the main drain size from .75 to 1". What do you think?
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[Esage]

So, you have a 3/4" drain and a 1/2" return? The two different Deep Blue tanks I have bought, had 1" drain and 3/4" return.

[JMorris271]

Originally Posted by Esage

So, you have a 3/4" drain and a 1/2" return? The two different Deep Blue tanks I have bought, had 1" drain and 3/4" return.

The main drain will be .75"
The Emergency will be 1"
I have the same thing you have hole wise
I can make the Return anything I want.

This is a Herbie System

[ca1ore]

Dual 3/4" as siphons will be just fine as long as you are not planning to run crazy flow through the sump.

[JMorris271]

Originally Posted by ca1ore

Dual 3/4" as siphons will be just fine as long as you are not planning to run crazy flow through the sump.

I can live with that.Thanks

[A sea K]

That tank has two overflow boxes so you can do a beananimal system. Basically the same as a herbie but with additional safeties in the added siphon and emergency.

You have 2) 3/4 holes and 2) 1" holes.
Use one 3/4 for the full siphon, one 1' for the secondary siphon and the last 1" hole for the emergency, the last 3/4 will be used for the return to the tank from the circulation pump.

[JMorris271]

Originally Posted by A sea K

That tank has two overflow boxes so you can do a beananimal system. Basically the same as a herbie but with additional safeties in the added siphon and emergency.

You have 2) 3/4 holes and 2) 1" holes.
Use one 3/4 for the full siphon, one 1' for the secondary siphon and the last 1" hole for the emergency, the last 3/4 will be used for the return to the tank from the circulation pump.

What is the advantage of doing this over a Herbie system and doesn't that require drilling holes in the back of the tank?

[JMorris271]

This morning is paint day. Two coats of black are going on and I want to get it plumed if at all possible if can decide on the type.
Can I cut he barbs off and use the bulkhead as a slip or a thread?

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[A sea K]

Originally Posted by JMorris271

What is the advantage of doing this over a Herbie system and doesn't that require drilling holes in the back of the tank?

The advantage is added safety. Use three of the holes for the beananimal and the single remaining hole as your return from pump, so short answer is no need to drill any holes.

[A sea K]

Originally Posted by JMorris271

This morning is paint day. Two coats of black are going on and I want to get it plumed if at all possible if can decide on the type.
Can I cut he barbs off and use the bulkhead as a slip or a thread?

Attachment 292811

Sorry, just noticed this. The supplied bulkheads that come with the deep blue tanks are of very poor quality and there are many complaints of not being able to fully tighten them. It would be in the best interest long term to buy new bulkheads. I just set-up a 30gal deep blue and bought my slip/slip bulkheads from BRS.

[JMorris271]

Originally Posted by A sea K

The advantage is added safety. Use three of the holes for the beananimal and the single remaining hole as your return from pump, so short answer is no need to drill any holes.

Thanks Sea. That sounds great!

Can someone recommend a good ammonia test kit besides API?

[A sea K]

Salifert has a solid reputation for test kits and is primarily what I use.
Here is some info on the bean animal design. http://www.beananimal.com/projects/s...ow-system.aspx

[JMorris271]

Originally Posted by A sea K

Sorry, just noticed this. The supplied bulkheads that come with the deep blue tanks are of very poor quality and there are many complaints of not being able to fully tighten them. It would be in the best interest long term to buy new bulkheads. I just set-up a 30gal deep blue and bought my slip/slip bulkheads from BRS.

I have doubts about the bulkheads supplied by Deep Blue as well.I've got a list of plumbing items I need to buy though I am just becoming too impatient because I've been working on his project since May and hit delays one after another.
Does your tank have an adjustable overflow? This is something completely new to me?

[A sea K]

I did away with all of the supplied plumbing items from deep blue. I used slipxslip bulkheads from BRS and made up all other plumbing using standard fittings and sch40(thinwall) pvc.
Do NOT get in a hurry at this stage. It is far easier to build correctly the first time then to have to re-fit or repair a running sytem.
A good LFS might have bulkheads, if not then a good plumbing supply house is another option. Also, the hole sizes on deep blue tanks are for sch 40 bulkheads, not sch 80(too big).

[JMorris271]

I went to my LFS, the same one that ordered the wrong tank, not once but two consecutive times before they got me the Deep Blue ( I ordered Marineland).
Asked for some bulkheads I needed>They looked and couldn't match up the halves. So I have to order online.
Thanks for the heads up about the Sch 40.

[jgalen0025]

My lfs stopped selling deep blue bc they had too many failures

[JMorris271]

Originally Posted by A sea K

The advantage is added safety. Use three of the holes for the beananimal and the single remaining hole as your return from pump, so short answer is no need to drill any holes.

Are the overflow weirs taking the place of the coast to coast and doing the same thing?
All of the descriptions of the BA I see involve back drilling.

[Shawn O]

Those bulkheads look kinda cheesy to me too. I couldn't trust those enough to get a good night's sleep.

I'm looking at an almost identical tank as yours and plan to do the BeanAnimal style drain as well. I was considering the two 1" holes for main siphon and the return and the two 3/4" holes for the 2nd siphon and the emergency drain. I intend to do a C2C in mine and scrap the corner panels that come with it, maybe build fake rock structures to go around the pipes from the bottom up to the C2C.

Any thoughts as to why not to use the larger holes for the main siphon and return?

[JMorris271]

Originally Posted by Shawn O

I'm looking at an almost identical tank as yours and plan to do the BeanAnimal style drain as well. I was considering the two 1" holes for main siphon and the return and the two 3/4" holes for the 2nd siphon and the emergency drain. I intend to do a C2C in mine and scrap the corner panels that come with it, maybe build fake rock structures to go around the pipes from the bottom up to the C2C.

I don't understand the advantage of internal C2C box instead of the corner weirs. Just wanting to figure it out here. If there are stil holes in the bottom of the tank, how is this BA safer than a Herbie?Any help here.
Thanks

[Shawn O]

The BeanAnimal is just a modified Herbie, from what I understand. One full siphon, one durso and one open emergency pipe as an additional backup to the durso type drain.

The C2C is supposed to allow a longer weir for surface skimming in the DT. Also, I just don't like the look of the corner weirs or the fact that some (without lower vents) could possibly keep stagnant water at the bottom. I'd rather cover them with fake rock that could provide a place for tiny creatures to live and hide.

[A sea K]

Originally Posted by JMorris271

I don't understand the advantage of internal C2C box instead of the corner weirs. Just wanting to figure it out here. If there are stil holes in the bottom of the tank, how is this BA safer than a Herbie?Any help here.
Thanks

No real advantage other than more surface skimming and not actually needed for your tank. You just need to understand how the basic principle works and adapt it to your individual system.
As far as safer than a Herbie, it simply has one extra emergency drain in case of unforseen blockage of the two primary drains, think extra redundancy.
With the bean you have a primary "full" siphon, that is where almost all of the flow from your tank to the sump goes and MUST be controlled(tuned is a better word) with a valve. Secondly you have the "open channel" it carries whatever leftover flow the primary "full" does not and will act as a full siphon if and when needed, the open channel does not require a valve. Third and last is the "emergency channel" it is always dry unless both of the other systems fail for whatever reason, also does not require a valve.

[JMorris271]

I've looking around for some kind of a foam to go under the sump in my cabinet. I painted and urathaned it a gadzillion times but just wanted more. While in Target yesterday, I I found just what I wanted. It's a foam yoga mat. Just thick enough and right sized.
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Sorry for the bad paint job shot. I finished the back painting . I hope it helps with seeing the inside if I can ever get it done. Also got the hardware up to hang the lights up.
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I got more plumbing parts to change the overflow system I am using. Thanks Members for helping me decide.

Now to go get this paint off my hands before my wife gets home.
Almost ready to do first leak test and may go ahead with rockscapping.if I can pass the test.