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12/14/2017, 07:04 PM | #76 |
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I got two of the four powered up last night with little to no issues and set them over the tank. Not proper height yet since I won't be able to work on the canopy until next week. These are running at 100% since I do not have them connected to my controller. I'm really pleased with the color and spread. I am not sure if four will be enough over the tank though. It is 30" tall x 30" deep x 54" wide. Will be interesting to see how they go when all four are running with water and rock. I'll be using dry rock and starting the cycle in January.
Only issue that I have is cooling the LED driver he builds. Great little piece but boy did it get super hot quick. No idea how I can mount and cool this. I just had the lights on for maybe 3 or 4 minutes then noticed the heat on them and next a flicker to warn me it was over heating (nice feature). I'll try and get some better photos. During the cycle if it looks like I need more than I'll order another pair, driver, power supply which would let me also add another pair if necessary. I'm thinking six will be more than enough.
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12/14/2017, 09:00 PM | #77 | |
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I didn't think he used linear drivers but if he did.. the greater the voltage differential the greater the heating.. example of worst case.. 48V power supply running 1 3V LED.. |
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12/14/2017, 10:42 PM | #78 | |
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Quote:
Edit: Thank you btw.
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12/14/2017, 11:16 PM | #79 | ||
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Quote:
and switching buck regulators so shouldn't heat "much"...at least to my understanding. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...477205&page=19 Quote:
I have a couple of the O2 5 up drivers based on the same topology and just thermal pasted them to a circular heat sink.. Don't recall any heat issues but to be honest didn't really check.. They have been running for months now w/ no problems.. you may want to drop him (theatrus) a note.. doesn't seem right..but ??? Last edited by oreo57; 12/14/2017 at 11:36 PM. |
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12/15/2017, 01:43 AM | #80 |
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those drivers are so tiny I love em. been having a hard time getting ahold
of theatrus on a few question on my build i'm leaning toward using his drivers. but its unclear exactly what the upper and lower limits of that driver are. any idea what the lowest Vout would be? it lists 12-48 but unclear if that's 12-48 in or out. also curious if its like a meanwell LDD if if I fed it say 50V from a 48v psu with the adjustment turned up would that be fine with a 47v led load. reason i'm curious is my setup i'm planning for my freshwater light is a 36V cob then adding 2xDeep Red and 1xRoyal Blue and 1xhyper violetto that channel, this comes out to about 47ish volts at 1amp if i'm reading data sheets right then on the salt version if I break out the channels i'll have loads as low as 6-7volts |
12/15/2017, 08:49 AM | #81 | ||
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Output is 9-45V....... 6-7V out of range.. suggest "sticking w/ the manuf plan"........... Never known anyone to series large voltage COBs w/ small..instinct tells me it's problematic.. |
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12/15/2017, 08:53 AM | #82 | |
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Quote:
I was going to order another pair of the Aquastars last night just to be safe but he is out of stock!
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12/15/2017, 09:07 AM | #83 |
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There should be no wiring/circuits on the back side of the board AFAICT.. just "holes" .. i.e vias for heat conduction..
Use heatsink plaster or some other thermal silicone or glue or compound and screws to attach to a block of aluminum or some such arrangement.. |
12/15/2017, 10:36 AM | #84 |
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HI oreo57 - thanks for the image and information. Here are the drivers that I am using of his. The back of the driver definitely has solder connects and/or bumps that would touch the aluminium / heat sink. Wouldn't that cause a short?
Appreciate the help by the way.
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12/15/2017, 11:37 AM | #85 | |
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Pretty sure you could put a narrow bar heatsink to cover the Dice look 5 x 5 holes. Just avoid the edges... That said.. some "like" boards.. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...2477205&page=4 |
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