ATI Sunpower VS Giesemann Matrixx II (Non-dimmable) - Page 9

rtparty · 02/03/2017, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nstocks

I did not!

But it looks like ATI has a higher output (brightness). Needless to say, the Pacific Sun and ATI fans were far too loud for my OCD of a near silent tank. (first light was AI Hydra 52 that was pretty quiet)

Not sure what optimal means to be honest. More wattage per $ or longer bulb life?

The ATI fans are a little loud. I really wish they used more fans and slightly larger so they could bring the noise down. That is always a consideration for some and I understand that fully. My current build has to be quiet since it will be close to my room and the baby's room.

Optimal performance means most output. For our use here I would also include bulb life into the mix as well since we all want bulbs to be brighter and last longer. A non cooled T5 bulb seems to last about 6 months for our purposes. A properly cooled T5 bulb can easily last 12 months. I ran many of mine out to 14 months with no negatives. The best we can do is use the tools we have and watch our corals.

gus6464 · 02/03/2017, 05:12 PM

The new PAC sun Althea looks promising. It has 120mm fans so should be very quiet.

I do wish it was on/off vs having a controller. They should just have diuna for dimming and Althea for regular.

Nstocks · 02/03/2017, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rtparty

The ATI fans are a little loud. I really wish they used more fans and slightly larger so they could bring the noise down. That is always a consideration for some and I understand that fully. My current build has to be quiet since it will be close to my room and the baby's room.

Optimal performance means most output. For our use here I would also include bulb life into the mix as well since we all want bulbs to be brighter and last longer. A non cooled T5 bulb seems to last about 6 months for our purposes. A properly cooled T5 bulb can easily last 12 months. I ran many of mine out to 14 months with no negatives. The best we can do is use the tools we have and watch our corals.

I'm way overdue to replace mine at 13 months, maybe longer... I wonder if this is why Acan has bleached... (Or could be NOPOX)

I take it you use a PAR meter?

brad65ford · 02/06/2017, 05:40 PM

Hi guys i know this is a ATI vs Matrixx thread but i figured there is more people here that know more about T5 lighnting suggestions with our ATI sunpowers. Some of you that have been following my recent struggles with the Matrixx now in the ATI and coming from running 2 Orphek's Atlintik V3 LED fixtures. Its only been a few days and some of the corals don't seem to like the switch, but its only a few that seem upset. Alk seemed to have gone up and cal is still the same what has been concerned, makes me think they don't like the change yet or something else. Has anyone switched from led to t5 does this seem normally that it takes time for some of the corals to adjust to the different types of lights? Hoping I'm not over lighting the system water surface par is 750 and 6" below the water we are seeing 450 par bottom is 260-300 par, only running full 8 bulbs for 4 ours and just blue/actinic for 2 hours before and after main lights (8 hours total cycle). I don't know which type but its fuzy tort, my cali tort is doing fine, my undata monti seems to have gone into shock which its done in the past (only monti that has a mind of its own). My green slimmer which has always been darker has starting to lighten up. All the rest of the milli's look great though, seems you can blast the snoot out of them. Wondering if I'm to bright or running all 8 bulbs for to long for some of the corals.

Moving forward would like to hear others thoughts on the transition and how long it may take for a full turn over. Want to change things especially since some of the coral look a little funny but thinking its best not to.

rtparty · 02/06/2017, 07:53 PM

Just make sure to watch your alkalinity for a little. As the corals adjust they may grow less and won't suck up the alkalinity. I'd also only run peak for a couple hours for a little bit. The corals are receiving a lot more light than they're used to even if PAR measures close. LEDs are so directional that sides and bottoms of corals don't get as much light as T5s

brad65ford · 02/07/2017, 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rtparty

Just make sure to watch your alkalinity for a little. As the corals adjust they may grow less and won't suck up the alkalinity. I'd also only run peak for a couple hours for a little bit. The corals are receiving a lot more light than they're used to even if PAR measures close. LEDs are so directional that sides and bottoms of corals don't get as much light as T5s

Thanks Ryan, good advise seriously these lights are like a touch! Par is just crazy high and its 18" above the water lol.

brad65ford · 02/21/2017, 07:43 PM

This thing works damn good ;-) Already have the fixture down 12 1/2" from the water surface. Most corals on top are seeing 440-490 par with out any issues. Increased the all bulb's on duration to 6 hours while the two blues are still on for 9 1/2 hours total. Corals are growing very good with a drop in alk / cal which i wanted to see. Plan to increase more full bulbs duration since this is what ATI suggested instead of lowering fixture. Will report back, below are some pic of a few corals.

Also I've been wanted to add same blue LED's since i do miss the dusk / dawn looks. I've posted this in the Kessil section in hopes to get some feedback since i haven't wired or completed it yet.

"I've been wanting to add two A160 just for accenting lighting but the cans are big to shove under the ATI fixture. So I took one part and removed fan since i'm only going to run at the lowest setting but kept the heat sink. Have a feeling it will cook regardless do to the t5 heat anyway though I do not care if they don't last a while especially since i'm only after dusk / dawn viewing purposes.

Came up with a cleaner way of holding the heat sink with carbon fiber thin tubes inside of the lip of the ATI fixture. All i need to do now is cut an lengthen the wires, whats cool is i will be able to tuck all wires inside behind the reflectors (should be pretty clean looking). Was also thinking about splitting the power in half by only using one power supply but wiring two fixtures. Not sure if they will cut my power in half which i want or it just may not run both. If anyone has any suggestions i'm more then willing to listen. Photos below with the light on the tank are just mock ups, looks much better in person.

Best,
Brad

rtparty · 02/22/2017, 02:51 PM

Sweet pics Brad! I'd be worried about the Kessil LEDs and the heat but time will tell. Glad you're liking the fixture

brad65ford · 02/22/2017, 06:48 PM

Thanks rtparty. The Kessil just have a look to them that imo is one of the nicest accented lights for a reef tank. Wishing there was an easy add on to our fixtures that what i'm trying to come up with. The reefbrites light out put does not look as nice as a Kessil imo. Made some progress, found the white led light connections it is only one wire. Whats even more interesting is now the blue led's work backwards regarding brightness when increasing color. Really its not backward just how Kessil changes the spectrum, when you increase color you reduce blue. So 100 percent color and 5 percent intensity is so little light its going to be perfect for dusk to dawn and keeping temps down with out the fan and the t5 blasting above. Still do not know if i can get away with running two lights on one main ciruit board. If it allows it, will be half of what its outputted is now which is super low and i want for no heat issues. Wishing i could find a 8 ribbon 120 feet computer cable, may get some ethernet cable which is 8 wire, only need 7 now ;-)

ReefCowboy · 02/22/2017, 11:35 PM

Brad, im with you on the kessils blues...I also miss them from when I had my halides/A160's retrofitted.
My ATI has done wonders to corals, and Im very happy when they are on and their overall tank color appeal, but I also miss the blue led dor dusk/dawn. If I can have that ai will be 100% satisfied.

For my 5x2x2' tank build, Im thinking maybe going 2x ATI 4x80W sunpowers, with three A160's sandwiched in the middle of the two fixtures, covered by an open top light canopy.

gus6464 · 02/22/2017, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ReefCowboy

Brad, im with you on the kessils blues...I also miss them from when I had my halides/A160's retrofitted.
My ATI has done wonders to corals, and Im very happy when they are on and their overall tank color appeal, but I also miss the blue led dor dusk/dawn. If I can have that ai will be 100% satisfied.

For my 5x2x2' tank build, Im thinking maybe going 2x ATI 4x80W sunpowers, with three A160's sandwiched in the middle of the two fixtures, covered by an open top light canopy.

Don't you have an orphek?

ReefCowboy · 02/22/2017, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gus6464

Don't you have an orphek?

I have an office tank which was intended for it. For the larger build I have been planning on, it will be more cost effective to go T5-led accenting

gdemos · 10/16/2017, 11:26 AM

I have the 8x54 Dimmable Sunpower w/1 standard Reefbrite strip and have had SPS Success for 4 years.
Due to some poor programming on my part which had my bulbs at say 10% ramp up power; i began having problems. I changed ballasts, end caps, busted 2 controllers in the process. But seems back to normal now that i fixed the programming.

I am not a light junky but have been learning. I am not measuring PAR/PUR/Temps...but I am considering a new fixture and stumbled upon this thread. Thanks all for the info.

Seems collectively here that ATI beats GMann in all but 'fit and finish'.
Despite my success w/ATI, the problems of taking the fixture down/repairing etc has been a turn-off so i've ventured to look at other solutions.

I have an In-Wall build. Back of tank has a 'louvered wall'. I also have a smart fan (CPU type fan). But i do need to resolve some heating issues. I also just installed a 1/2 HP Chiller to be safe. In search for a solution i think i've uncovered too many choices! For me, i want plug/play/set-forget....and i want continued success w/my SPS. The appeal to MH is the Contrast/Shimmer. Appeal to t5 is my experience - it works. Appeal to LED is light weight/easy maintain. (I have a Hydra 52 over my frag tank and no issues).

I have looked at:
Orphek LED V4 Atlantik
ATI Powermodule
GMann Aurora
GMann Dim Matrix
New- Aquatic Life Hybrid Fixture
Radion Ecotech
Hydra AI
GMann Spectra (t5/MH)

I never got into measuring Par or temp like all here seem to have a passion for. So beyond ATI v GMann i know. but appreciate the input.
-Greg

02/06/2017, 05:40 PM	#204
brad65ford Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: SWFL Posts: 1,219	LED to T5 swap advice. Hi guys i know this is a ATI vs Matrixx thread but i figured there is more people here that know more about T5 lighnting suggestions with our ATI sunpowers. Some of you that have been following my recent struggles with the Matrixx now in the ATI and coming from running 2 Orphek's Atlintik V3 LED fixtures. Its only been a few days and some of the corals don't seem to like the switch, but its only a few that seem upset. Alk seemed to have gone up and cal is still the same what has been concerned, makes me think they don't like the change yet or something else. Has anyone switched from led to t5 does this seem normally that it takes time for some of the corals to adjust to the different types of lights? Hoping I'm not over lighting the system water surface par is 750 and 6" below the water we are seeing 450 par bottom is 260-300 par, only running full 8 bulbs for 4 ours and just blue/actinic for 2 hours before and after main lights (8 hours total cycle). I don't know which type but its fuzy tort, my cali tort is doing fine, my undata monti seems to have gone into shock which its done in the past (only monti that has a mind of its own). My green slimmer which has always been darker has starting to lighten up. All the rest of the milli's look great though, seems you can blast the snoot out of them. Wondering if I'm to bright or running all 8 bulbs for to long for some of the corals. Moving forward would like to hear others thoughts on the transition and how long it may take for a full turn over. Want to change things especially since some of the coral look a little funny but thinking its best not to. __________________ 525xl BB Last edited by brad65ford; 02/06/2017 at 05:46 PM.

02/06/2017, 07:53 PM	#205
rtparty Raise The Reef! Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Utah Posts: 7,404	Just make sure to watch your alkalinity for a little. As the corals adjust they may grow less and won't suck up the alkalinity. I'd also only run peak for a couple hours for a little bit. The corals are receiving a lot more light than they're used to even if PAR measures close. LEDs are so directional that sides and bottoms of corals don't get as much light as T5s __________________ Ryan Click on my user name and check out my homepage! Current Tank Info: 50g Cadlights/Giesemann Spectra (250w Radium, 2 ATI Blue Plus, 2 ATI Actinic)/2 x Vortech MP10wQD/Skimz SN123/Eheim Compact 3000+

02/21/2017, 07:43 PM	#207
brad65ford Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: SWFL Posts: 1,219	ATI 80x8 Sunpower update. / A160 kessil add on This thing works damn good ;-) Already have the fixture down 12 1/2" from the water surface. Most corals on top are seeing 440-490 par with out any issues. Increased the all bulb's on duration to 6 hours while the two blues are still on for 9 1/2 hours total. Corals are growing very good with a drop in alk / cal which i wanted to see. Plan to increase more full bulbs duration since this is what ATI suggested instead of lowering fixture. Will report back, below are some pic of a few corals. Also I've been wanted to add same blue LED's since i do miss the dusk / dawn looks. I've posted this in the Kessil section in hopes to get some feedback since i haven't wired or completed it yet. "I've been wanting to add two A160 just for accenting lighting but the cans are big to shove under the ATI fixture. So I took one part and removed fan since i'm only going to run at the lowest setting but kept the heat sink. Have a feeling it will cook regardless do to the t5 heat anyway though I do not care if they don't last a while especially since i'm only after dusk / dawn viewing purposes. Came up with a cleaner way of holding the heat sink with carbon fiber thin tubes inside of the lip of the ATI fixture. All i need to do now is cut an lengthen the wires, whats cool is i will be able to tuck all wires inside behind the reflectors (should be pretty clean looking). Was also thinking about splitting the power in half by only using one power supply but wiring two fixtures. Not sure if they will cut my power in half which i want or it just may not run both. If anyone has any suggestions i'm more then willing to listen. Photos below with the light on the tank are just mock ups, looks much better in person. Best, Brad __________________ 525xl BB Last edited by brad65ford; 02/21/2017 at 07:49 PM.

02/22/2017, 02:51 PM	#208
rtparty Raise The Reef! Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Utah Posts: 7,404	Sweet pics Brad! I'd be worried about the Kessil LEDs and the heat but time will tell. Glad you're liking the fixture __________________ Ryan Click on my user name and check out my homepage! Current Tank Info: 50g Cadlights/Giesemann Spectra (250w Radium, 2 ATI Blue Plus, 2 ATI Actinic)/2 x Vortech MP10wQD/Skimz SN123/Eheim Compact 3000+

02/22/2017, 06:48 PM	#209
brad65ford Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: SWFL Posts: 1,219	Thanks rtparty. The Kessil just have a look to them that imo is one of the nicest accented lights for a reef tank. Wishing there was an easy add on to our fixtures that what i'm trying to come up with. The reefbrites light out put does not look as nice as a Kessil imo. Made some progress, found the white led light connections it is only one wire. Whats even more interesting is now the blue led's work backwards regarding brightness when increasing color. Really its not backward just how Kessil changes the spectrum, when you increase color you reduce blue. So 100 percent color and 5 percent intensity is so little light its going to be perfect for dusk to dawn and keeping temps down with out the fan and the t5 blasting above. Still do not know if i can get away with running two lights on one main ciruit board. If it allows it, will be half of what its outputted is now which is super low and i want for no heat issues. Wishing i could find a 8 ribbon 120 feet computer cable, may get some ethernet cable which is 8 wire, only need 7 now ;-) __________________ 525xl BB Last edited by brad65ford; 02/22/2017 at 06:55 PM.

02/03/2017, 05:12 PM	#202
gus6464 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 1,079	The new PAC sun Althea looks promising. It has 120mm fans so should be very quiet. I do wish it was on/off vs having a controller. They should just have diuna for dimming and Althea for regular.

02/22/2017, 11:35 PM	#210
ReefCowboy Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Long Island, New York Posts: 1,742	Brad, im with you on the kessils blues...I also miss them from when I had my halides/A160's retrofitted. My ATI has done wonders to corals, and Im very happy when they are on and their overall tank color appeal, but I also miss the blue led dor dusk/dawn. If I can have that ai will be 100% satisfied. For my 5x2x2' tank build, Im thinking maybe going 2x ATI 4x80W sunpowers, with three A160's sandwiched in the middle of the two fixtures, covered by an open top light canopy. __________________ Rimless 150 Gal Sps System: Giesemann Spectra/New Apex/2x MP40qd's+ 2x Gyre XF250's/Cor20/Custom Stand, Sump and Algae Scrubber/2x DOS dosing/Skimz Octa 205i Skimmer

10/16/2017, 11:26 AM	#213
gdemos Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Posts: 459	I have the 8x54 Dimmable Sunpower w/1 standard Reefbrite strip and have had SPS Success for 4 years. Due to some poor programming on my part which had my bulbs at say 10% ramp up power; i began having problems. I changed ballasts, end caps, busted 2 controllers in the process. But seems back to normal now that i fixed the programming. I am not a light junky but have been learning. I am not measuring PAR/PUR/Temps...but I am considering a new fixture and stumbled upon this thread. Thanks all for the info. Seems collectively here that ATI beats GMann in all but 'fit and finish'. Despite my success w/ATI, the problems of taking the fixture down/repairing etc has been a turn-off so i've ventured to look at other solutions. I have an In-Wall build. Back of tank has a 'louvered wall'. I also have a smart fan (CPU type fan). But i do need to resolve some heating issues. I also just installed a 1/2 HP Chiller to be safe. In search for a solution i think i've uncovered too many choices! For me, i want plug/play/set-forget....and i want continued success w/my SPS. The appeal to MH is the Contrast/Shimmer. Appeal to t5 is my experience - it works. Appeal to LED is light weight/easy maintain. (I have a Hydra 52 over my frag tank and no issues). I have looked at: Orphek LED V4 Atlantik ATI Powermodule GMann Aurora GMann Dim Matrix New- Aquatic Life Hybrid Fixture Radion Ecotech Hydra AI GMann Spectra (t5/MH) I never got into measuring Par or temp like all here seem to have a passion for. So beyond ATI v GMann i know. but appreciate the input. -Greg