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10/10/2019, 02:39 AM | #1 |
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upgrade metal halide fixture to led
Any of you guys came up with idea of upgrading old MH fixture to led?
I've got this old aquaconnect 2x150w MH + 2x 54w t5 that's been out of use ever since we moved on to t5's. Would love to make a LED/T5 hybrid out of it, if done correctly imo it would look much like those fancy Giesemann's models, Gemini or Aurora, or any other overpriced modern fixture.. been researching my options here for a while now.. but could not find some example of anybody doing the same... surely someone had to come up with that idea already or is there a catch? any ideas.. links --?
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10/10/2019, 06:21 AM | #2 |
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10/10/2019, 06:30 AM | #3 |
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I’m not 100% sure that moving from Halide to LED is actually an upgrade.......
That said, you could just put a rapid LED puck in both the halide lamp locations.
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Originally posted by yellowslayer13: "I hate that hole" Current Tank Info: SCMAS Member 225 peninsula euroreef RS180 Apex 400W X 3 20k radiums / Spectra mixed SPS |
10/10/2019, 07:14 AM | #4 | |
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Plan was to remove the ballasts and to rewire these two for led plucks.. I've been hearing a lot that temperature might be to much of a challenge for simple computer fans in such closed setup so leds would most likely burn... Any experiences there?
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10/10/2019, 08:41 AM | #5 |
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i still run halides so, no
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Originally posted by yellowslayer13: "I hate that hole" Current Tank Info: SCMAS Member 225 peninsula euroreef RS180 Apex 400W X 3 20k radiums / Spectra mixed SPS |
10/10/2019, 02:19 PM | #6 |
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You need actual heatsinks for those pucks if you plan to run them in that fixture.
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LED snob. Unapologetic Luxeon Rebel and Bridgelux Vero fanboy. Every time a fluorescent or halide fixture is scrapped, an angel gets its wings. |
10/10/2019, 02:38 PM | #7 |
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How do you think 200w of leds is going to like a 300w power supply? Leds need a constant current supply.. Doea that puck have that integrated into it?
And yes. Heatsinking is a necessity
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10/11/2019, 01:13 AM | #8 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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10/11/2019, 07:33 AM | #9 |
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You need proper ventilation for it to work. I would chop a hole above each puck and slap a chrome PC fan grille over the holes. As long as you have holes for cool air to draw from up there for the intake of the fans it should work well. Without additional holes it will be very tricky to cool properly without some creative ductwork inside to direct air across the heatsinks well.
I would seriously contemplate leaving the T5s in there, and just replace the halide sections with LED, would be a nice versatile fixture that way, that would combine two very effective technologies well. You will need to run drivers between the LEDs and the PSU, what are the specs on that puck? Voltage/current per channel, etc. Should be able to copy/paste from whichever page you bought them from, as the mods will likely nuke any link you post here if it's from one of the auction sites.
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LED snob. Unapologetic Luxeon Rebel and Bridgelux Vero fanboy. Every time a fluorescent or halide fixture is scrapped, an angel gets its wings. |
10/11/2019, 12:46 PM | #10 | |||
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so here are the specs LED Chip Brand: CREE XPE and Epileds Output: 100W DC Forward Voltage (VF): 29V ~ 32V DC Forward Current (IF): 1800mA ~ 2000mA Size: 82mmx66mmx3mm LED Configuration: 4x 430nm UV 7x 450nm royal blue 7x 470nm blue 4x 490nm cyan 2x 660nm red 6x 7000K white Packing List 1x 100W Multichip LED
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10/11/2019, 12:52 PM | #11 |
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nice one , thx
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10/11/2019, 12:59 PM | #12 | |
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LEDS are not like regular lightbulbs.. They need to be "fed" the proper amount of current or they will go up in smoke.. You need a constant current power supply for each one of those pucks or other method to convert the output of what you bought to a constant current.. You will also need heatsinks as 100W through those pucks even mounted to a good metal plate will overheat them. Then have you put any thought into dimming?
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10/11/2019, 01:06 PM | #13 |
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2 x Meanwell LPF-90D-48 LED drivers
with 2 x 100k potentiometers (for manual knob based dimming) will get those pucks up and running very well.. If you aren't willing to put extensive heatsinking into them then use Meanwell LPD-60D-48 or even LPF-40D-48 to drive them at less current (less current = less heat = less total brightness)
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10/12/2019, 12:11 PM | #14 |
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Those pucks aren't 100W's btw...
If you feed them a constant current of 2A and it's voltage is 32.. that's 64W... The metal cavity for the mh's looks like it's all removable so that's going to give you a lot of room and air space. W/ that space I'd really consider putting in like orphek bars over pucks.. or design your own linear array.. That beamswork like addition above is sort of what I'm referring to.. only much stronger... Advantage is spreading the heat out.. Second suggestion.. 3 pucks.. Last edited by oreo57; 10/12/2019 at 01:07 PM. |
10/12/2019, 02:24 PM | #15 |
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No, not really.. just like back in the day.. plain simple on /off controlled by good old analog timmer.. although is modern thing i dont see much adavanage for corals in dimming the lights.. fixture like that + small led moonlight for night ambient would do just fine for me
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10/12/2019, 03:07 PM | #16 | |||
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Im lost, why does specification say output: 100W than? Quote:
Quote:
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10/12/2019, 04:15 PM | #17 | |
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Usually based on # of 3W "class" diodes.. 30 x 3 = 90 rounded to 100W.. Yes .. basic electronics.. W = V X A Use a 3A driver and you could get 100W-ish out of them.. |
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10/12/2019, 04:19 PM | #18 | |
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10/12/2019, 07:57 PM | #19 |
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https://youtu.be/Mls7zCKljic
Similar style.. Yea if going "non-destructive" best to sell it...or use it as is.. Can't speak for the market .. but it's prob. not worth a lot currently.. Last edited by oreo57; 10/12/2019 at 08:03 PM. |
11/11/2019, 06:09 AM | #20 |
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little update,, project is almost done, hope to have it up and running by next weekend.
I've been asked about progress so here it goes.. We decided to go ahead and ignore few remarks about not knowing better and being misinformed. So far so good, heatsinks and fans mounted. also added temp. safe swithces. Made few all day tests and lamp was running for 14 hours never exceeding temp. of 32C.. So I'd cautiously state that we're on safe side of that dilemma . Power supply is crappy cheap stuff, I'll admit to that.. and for that reason I purchased another ,, just to play it safe.
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11/11/2019, 08:09 AM | #21 |
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.. and few shots more,
- temp swithc mounted on heatsink - leds turned on testing it over the friends tank - T5s alone ( 2x54w actinic) that will do for mornings and evenings - led pucks alone - T5's & leds
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11/11/2019, 12:57 PM | #22 | |
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Channel arrangements, current ect.. This is the chip right? http://www.topledlight.com/100w-cree..._p1856cec.html your buck converter.. https://www.amazon.in/LM2596-DC-DC-B.../dp/B009P04YTO diodes seem uncontrolled..except by sheer luck..well more like running out of voltage. Your 2 chips are fed in parallel off the buck converter.. Those chips are meant to be driven w/ the likes of these AC/DC drivers like this: ELG-100-54 https://www.onlinecomponents.com/mea...E&gclsrc=aw.ds One per chip... Using your current power supply (assume 36V or greater) you could do an LDD-1500HW.. One per chip.. https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/...LDD-H-SPEC.PDF The "w" is just for err wired.. Will make things easier. https://www.ledsupply.com/led-driver...SABEgJGWfD_BwE only adds $16 to th cost.. plus shipping I suppose.. 5% off today.. Last edited by oreo57; 11/11/2019 at 02:06 PM. |
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11/11/2019, 02:58 PM | #23 |
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Thats the chip, right. But it is modded, UVs are replaced with blue and white, they would burn so they had to be taken out. Buck converter is there for fans, it converts 31,5 to 12v for them to run.
Yes chips are connected directly to psu, output is lowered to 31,5v. Im explained that coller the diodes less A they pull but giving the same power. Well this is not my work, and I should not be credited for it. As I stated in posts earlier, Im from different background and electronics are not my thing, so I entrusted this job to an reefer friend who is in this sort of thing by trade. I did some asking arround to learn things for myself as well and been instructed to use drivers to provide constant current otherwise leds would burn. ... This was dismissed by my tech and explained to me that it would be dumb to go that way.. because it will lower the output (32v x 2A --> 64W) what we did here is more like 31,5v x 3A --> 94,5A per puck. UVs that were risk are replaced and that should do. I could have bought it in set. https://www.ebay.com/itm/660NM-490NM...xLG7ThR9ZrVLsM but we decided to against that,, fans and heatsinks might be also of questionable quality..
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Mario Current Tank Info: 120g anemone tank Last edited by Jadran; 11/11/2019 at 03:18 PM. |
11/11/2019, 02:58 PM | #24 |
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Not bad
Not sure I understand the wiring as described, but hope it works well for you.
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LED snob. Unapologetic Luxeon Rebel and Bridgelux Vero fanboy. Every time a fluorescent or halide fixture is scrapped, an angel gets its wings. |
11/11/2019, 03:15 PM | #25 | |
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