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Unread 10/20/2006, 08:13 AM   #351
highquality
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Too late....lol What is the shortest time you all have waited to fill up a tank or sump after glueing? Im in a hurry to get it setup! I have orders coming in.


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Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Unread 10/20/2006, 01:05 PM   #352
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Minimum 12 hours. I prefer 24 hours, but then again I'm referring to a sump rather than a display tank. James would have the best answer for your question.


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Unread 10/20/2006, 01:40 PM   #353
Acrylics
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Personally, I'd wait as long as possible. *In general* solvent bonded joints reach 90% strength in about 24hrs, 95% strength in about 72hrs, and full strength in 7-14 days. I know you're not gonna wait that long though
Give it 24hrs and then have a go at it. But, if you can still smell the solvent in 24hrs, give it another 24 - hope this make sense.

FWIW, I wait at least a week before I ship anything.

James


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Unread 10/20/2006, 03:51 PM   #354
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So if I wait three days i should be good for sure ? I can go ahead as well and put some WO #16 in a few joints that look a little weak. It wont affect the WO #4 drying after 24 hours?


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Unread 10/20/2006, 08:32 PM   #355
Acrylics
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You should be fine after 3 days. From a theoretical POV, you *should* wait on adding anything to the joint as adding stuff *may* inhibit/delay the joint from coming to full strength. However in the real world, I *personally* wouldn't hesitate to add 40 after 24hrs but if you have 16, there ya go.
Trying to walk a fine line between what ought to be recommended in a perfect world and what is realistic...not always easy if ya know what I mean

HTH,
James


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Unread 10/23/2006, 04:54 PM   #356
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i know what you mean, Thanks - Shes finished


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Unread 10/23/2006, 05:00 PM   #357
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highquality - you forgot one thing.




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Unread 10/24/2006, 02:53 PM   #358
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I knew that was coming , here a partial shot of the tank on end while the exterior overflow box was being glued on. i post some final shot later on.


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Unread 10/25/2006, 06:29 PM   #359
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Ok , I have a leak! I originally ran a bead of wo 16 around all inside corners. I used a small tip and made the bead of 16 real tiny . there is some bubbles at the leak . should I put a acrylic block in there or just run some more wo 16, but this time put a little more on? Is this pretty normal for you guys ever?


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Unread 10/25/2006, 07:51 PM   #360
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Im gluing in a triangle piece right now to stop the leak and reinforce. what should i use for this: WO #3 or #4 or #16?


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Unread 10/25/2006, 08:58 PM   #361
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I would use #4.


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Unread 10/26/2006, 07:42 AM   #362
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Ok so here is my forray in the Acrylic manufacturing hobby

I just leak tested my Melev Front Refugium and had a pleasant suprise ... no leaks

Here are some pics with water in them, so it a little hard to get a true feel of the look because of the water. I'll post a couple later after its been drained.

So how do you finish the edges? my bracing is extra sharp after routing it (got a couple nice scrapes vacuuming chips out )







EDIT: Oh, I think I'm gonna add a top cross-brace, my side brace got routered a little close on the front (only about 3/4 inch) and lets the front bow a little.


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Current Tank Info: Now Defunct: 70 gal Reef 4/30/04, 29 gal Sump/Refuge, CPR SR-4 Skimmer, 4x65W PC, Maxijet 1200 PH, Aquaclear 500 HOB Filter, 90lbs Tonga Kaelini, 20lbs Tonga Branch. 65gal Hex Reef tank in the process of converting to Equus tank.
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Unread 10/26/2006, 08:20 AM   #363
Acrylics
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Good Job
For the sharp edges - just scrape them with the side of a chisel or similar. When you get this down - the shaving(s) will be just a long string.

James


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Unread 10/26/2006, 01:25 PM   #364
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It looks nice. You can always run a propane torch around the inside flange to soften those edges, but not on the outside as it can weaken the seams.


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Unread 10/26/2006, 02:17 PM   #365
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Quote:
Originally posted by Acrylics
Good Job
For the sharp edges - just scrape them with the side of a chisel or similar. When you get this down - the shaving(s) will be just a long string.

James
Quote:
Originally posted by melev
It looks nice. You can always run a propane torch around the inside flange to soften those edges, but not on the outside as it can weaken the seams.
Thanks for the tips.

It was fun/nerve wracking waiting for the seams to leak !! lol

I'll post a pic of it under my tank sometime this weekend.


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Current Tank Info: Now Defunct: 70 gal Reef 4/30/04, 29 gal Sump/Refuge, CPR SR-4 Skimmer, 4x65W PC, Maxijet 1200 PH, Aquaclear 500 HOB Filter, 90lbs Tonga Kaelini, 20lbs Tonga Branch. 65gal Hex Reef tank in the process of converting to Equus tank.
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Unread 10/26/2006, 02:30 PM   #366
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That's when it'll leak. Don't forget the sheet of rigid foam underneath.


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Unread 10/26/2006, 03:28 PM   #367
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Quote:
Originally posted by melev
That's when it'll leak. Don't forget the sheet of rigid foam underneath.
On my LOWE'S shopping list for tonight. I was going to use an anti-fatigue mat, do you think that will work?


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'The time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time.'
- Bertrand Russell -

Current Tank Info: Now Defunct: 70 gal Reef 4/30/04, 29 gal Sump/Refuge, CPR SR-4 Skimmer, 4x65W PC, Maxijet 1200 PH, Aquaclear 500 HOB Filter, 90lbs Tonga Kaelini, 20lbs Tonga Branch. 65gal Hex Reef tank in the process of converting to Equus tank.
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Unread 10/26/2006, 05:52 PM   #368
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Possibly. I just use the pink 3/4" stuff that sells for $11 for a 4x8 panel. It cuts easily with a utility knife, and makes a great substitute for woodwork.


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Unread 10/27/2006, 04:26 PM   #369
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I used WO #16 and then i see your post about using #4. Now im worried it will crash apart after it setup with water. when I glued the sides on the bottom, It made more bubbles than when i did the sides. so the bottom seams are not as clear as the sides. not sure why the bottom did not go as well. any way i get some pics up soon.


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Unread 10/27/2006, 04:49 PM   #370
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#16 will work as well, but for a patch I don't think it is needed. Water testing your work is key.


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Unread 10/27/2006, 05:41 PM   #371
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Hree ya go, what do you think?


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Unread 10/27/2006, 05:41 PM   #372
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BAM!


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Unread 10/27/2006, 05:43 PM   #373
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BAM again!


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Unread 10/27/2006, 05:44 PM   #374
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And here is the culpret. this seam already has the triangle piece glued in , hence the extra extra bubbles of #16


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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Unread 10/27/2006, 07:33 PM   #375
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Swedge, what thickness acrylic did you use there? just curious if i should be worried about my back panel.


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" If you can touch people with wildlife, then they want to save it." Steve Irwin

Current Tank Info: One of my tanks is a 50 gallon Mini Reef - 250 wt 20k on a PFO mag. ballast - a 250 wt krystal star 11k on a dynamic E-ballast - ASM G2 1/2 skimmer -TLF phosban reactor with 1 1/2 carbon in it -
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