220gal Plywood/steel hybrid. Pull up a chair, this will take a while.

[crázy clowntang]

the dimensions of the tank are 10ft long by 4ft wide by 30inches tall. Have any ideas?

[Horace]

BTW, guys Low-E is not Low Iron (which is what starfire is). Low-E glass is for insulating. Low-E glass blocks more heat etc from coming through your windows from the sunlight, and thus will help on your energy bills if your windows are made of it. However, Low Iron is a whole different ball game. It is MUCH clearer than either Low-E or standard glass.

[kcress]

Horace good point!! I never noticed that mistake! Now I am wondering if those glass samples are really showing low iron or just low E. That would explain my "doesn't do justice" comment.

Low-E glass just has a coating on it.

[AcroSteve]

My tank dims are about 30x72 internal with a water level of about 25"

[virginiadiver69]

Steve, what kind of plywood are you using and why?
I looked through the thread for the answer so sorry if this has been covered already.
I'm planning a plywood build myself and am following yours with interest.

[JCTewks]

I think I remember reading that He is using 13ply baltic birch (correct me if I'm wrong or stupid Steve )

[AcroSteve]

Well, I was looking for the cheapest, smoothest plywood with the most plies I could find in 4x8 sheets. What I ended up with is birch plywood with between 11 and 13 plys.

Lower grade plywood has been used by others, but the surface is pretty rough and it tends to have more internal voids than a premium product.

[virginiadiver69]

If money were no object is this the same you would use? If someone were to say to you "Steve... tell me what kind of plywood you want to use for your tank and I'll have it delivered at no cost to you"... what would it be? I ask because considering the amount of money that gets put into toys and gadgets for this hobby, If I'm gonna build a 300+ gal woodie I'm not gonna skimp on the backbone. I get the impression that you know your way around carpentry and woodworking so your recommendation would mean a lot to me.

[JCTewks]

If money were no object 13ply baltic birch would be the way to go. That is a very high grade of plywood; there are no voids in the internal ply's, more ply's means more strength, and the 2 skin ply's are uniform and free of voids. The price has come down a bit lately, and the availability of 4x8 sheets has increased. It used to be difficult to find it in anything other thatn 5x5 and 5x10 sheets.

FWIW, 13ply baltic is the same thing used for highend PA speakers...we're talking about the huge arrays you see in arena's! Most top of the line kitchen and bath cabinets use it for the cabinet boxes as well

[scaryperson27]

You're a pretty crafty man!!

[AcroSteve]

Yea, this is just regular birch plywood, not really baltic birch, which is a grade higher.

The stuff I am using was made in China, but it is readily available. I don't have easy access to a nice woodworking store that has flexable hours like a home dept does.

[JCTewks]

The quality of the Chinese import plywood has GREATLY improved in the last 4-5 yrs. It used to be that most of it was made with low quality glues and questionable "hardwood" ply's. If you buy ply with a reputable companies name on it you are more than likely getting a good product as the reputable co's won't sell the crappy stuff anymore and have found factories in china that will do it "right". It's still not baltic....but it's getting closer to that quality

[chriscobb]

Any updates on the tank build

[AcroSteve]

Funny you should ask. Yes, I have been working on the steel framework and the integration of it for the last week or so. I should have some pics by the end of the week.

Nothing is welded/glued or glassed yet, but I am getting very close.

[chriscobb]

Cool looking forward to the updates

[AcroSteve]

Well, I did use my table saw as much as I could. Here is my auxiliary fence for cutting the groove for the angle in the long side of the bottom. The end was done with the previously mentioned hand saw.





Here is almost everything dry fit and ready to weld. I need one more piece of small angle - say about 3/4 or so for the left front corner. Pretty much only for support during construction, but it will be thin enough that I will probably leave it in after the glass is installed.
Currently, I am just using a piece of wood to support the upper pieces.






Closeup of the overflow. I used 1-1/2 on the back and will be cutting some of it out here in the overflow for some additional clearance. You might be able to make out my layout line.



Here are some closeups of the "joints". These will be welded and ground smooth. Originally, I bought some scrap 3/16x1-1/2 angle that prooved to be a little too rough. I purchased 20' of 1/8X2" angle for most of the front and perimeter. However, I needed more than 20' so I was able to use some of the better pieces of the 1-1/2. Should work out fine. Everything viewable from the front and side will be covered with wood anyway.




Keep in mind, this is angle and the other 2" leg is inserted into a groove I cut into the edge of the plywood.




Now, all I need is for my buddy "radone" to get that tank of argon so I can start welding.

You guys send him a message or two so he doesn't forget.

[radone]

Anticipation is killing me

[AcroSteve]

Oh, and for you welders, I have some joint prep yet to do. So don't pick on me yet.

[stugray]

Is radone planning on TIG or MIG weld?

If it was TIG, a "good" welder could tack the joints in place where you have it clamped & a wet rag would "put out the fire" before it caused any damage.

That way it would fit like a glove exactly where you need it.

Stu

[chriscobb]

Hey Acro....looks good....if I'm understanding correctly you cut like a dado into your bottom piece to slide the lip of the angle iron into? Looks very good!!!!!

[AcroSteve]

Originally posted by stugray
Is radone planning on TIG or MIG weld?

If it was TIG, a "good" welder could tack the joints in place where you have it clamped & a wet rag would "put out the fire" before it caused any damage.

That way it would fit like a glove exactly where you need it.

Stu

That's the plan - TIG, but I will be doing the welding. I might let him look over my shoulder.

And yes, all the angle either fits into a dado or rabbit where it meets the plywood.

[chriscobb]

Another dumb question Acro that's been puzzling me on my build as well......I'm planning to start my plywood build shortly and was going to integrate the angle myself, but how are you planning to attach or secure the angle to the plywood and then with putting wood over top the angle and securing that as well outer shell on the front to the wood behind it?

[ReefEnabler]

awesome work!!

As somebody with almost no experience welding/working with metal, I'm interested in any and all details/pictures you provide about the next part of the process.

this is going to be one tough tank, that's for sure.

[AcroSteve]

Originally posted by chriscobb
Another dumb question Acro that's been puzzling me on my build as well......I'm planning to start my plywood build shortly and was going to integrate the angle myself, but how are you planning to attach or secure the angle to the plywood and then with putting wood over top the angle and securing that as well outer shell on the front to the wood behind it?

Not dumb at all.

The angle shown will be "attached" to the plywood with West epoxy thickened with adhesive additives. Additionally, I think I am going to drill some 3/8 holes through the angle and plywood and insert wooded dowels for some definite positive attachment.

After this, I think am going to wrap the fiberglass cloth around from the inside to the outside of the tank.

The wood trim will be attached also with epoxy.

[radone]

Any updates?