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Old 01/14/2020, 10:19 PM   #1
greg10
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150 build with refugium

Tank started September 2019

150 gallon
sump
40g refugium (started January 2020)


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Old 01/14/2020, 10:34 PM   #2
greg10
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Refugium
IMG_20200115_000027.jpg

Display
PANO_20200109_125504.jpg


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Old 01/15/2020, 07:23 AM   #3
Michael Hoaster
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Nice. So your refugium is plumbed in with your reef display, for nutrient uptake?


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Current Tank Info: 180g Seagrass Sandbar Lagoon, START DATE November 28, 2018
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Old 01/15/2020, 07:56 AM   #4
greg10
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yes, I have two durso overflows in my display. One drains directly to the refugium and the other to the sump. The refugium also drains to the sump.


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Old 01/15/2020, 10:36 AM   #5
Michael Hoaster
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I see you split the difference with the purple light on your chaeto and daylight on your mangroves. I think that could work well. Keep us informed.

The challenge with this type of setup is that if you want your reef AND your 'fuge to be successful displays, you kind of have to walk a tightrope. Corals like low nutrients, macros like high nutrients. If you get hit all the right numbers for your reef, your macros will suffer, and vice versa.

It helps if you have a priority, which I assume is your reef display. So shoot for those good reef parameters, and then try different macros to see what can survive in those lower nutrient levels.

If you find that you become more interested in a successful refugium display, I recommend you detach it from the reef system, so you can give those plants everything they want.

Good luck with it!


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As many naturalists and environmentalists have suggested, we should set aside our arrogance,
our desire to conquer and control everything, and walk hand in hand with Mother Nature. -Walter Adey

Current Tank Info: 180g Seagrass Sandbar Lagoon, START DATE November 28, 2018
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Old 01/15/2020, 11:23 AM   #6
greg10
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Thanks, as of now, the reef tank is the priority

I had to turn off the skimmer a couple weeks ago because the chaeto was dying. Now, it's more exploding than growing.


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Old 01/15/2020, 12:39 PM   #7
five.five-six
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg10 View Post
Thanks, as of now, the reef tank is the priority

I had to turn off the skimmer a couple weeks ago because the chaeto was dying. Now, it's more exploding than growing.


LOL, well, turn the skimmer back on?


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Old 01/15/2020, 09:18 PM   #8
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I've got my trusty magus 9 curve skimmer back on task


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Old 01/18/2020, 12:15 AM   #9
Han Solo
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does it matter having the mangrove leaves underwater?


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Old 01/18/2020, 09:17 AM   #10
greg10
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I've seen both ways suggested, float and let the roots grow down and plant and let it grow up out of the water.

I ended up planting mine in the sand and a few of the plants' leaves are now out of the water.


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Old 01/20/2020, 01:40 PM   #11
greg10
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Originally Posted by Michael Hoaster View Post
Nice. So your refugium is plumbed in with your reef display, for nutrient uptake?
I had a dual overflow with two durso drains. One went to the refugium, the other directly to the sump.

I re-plumbed it to a single drain to my sump with a utility pump pumping water to the refugium.


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Old 02/04/2020, 08:41 PM   #12
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I'm seeing an explosion of these in my refugium


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Old 09/07/2020, 05:32 PM   #13
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I've had a hard time balancing good parameters for my display and having solid macro growth in my refugium. If the refugium is doing well, the display is not. If the display is doing well, the refugium is not.

I'm considering separating the refugium from the display tank.


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Old 09/08/2020, 08:46 AM   #14
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That is the challenge with reef tanks and refugiums. Ideal reef conditions are not ideal for macro growth, and vice versa. If you want the best chance of getting an impressive reef AND refugium, separate them, so you can provide ideal conditions for both.

If you want a refugium to help manage nutrient levels in your reef, it's good to have a mix of fast-growing greens and slower-groing reds. If you're managing your reef well, your fuge will slow way down and 'wait' for the next high nutrient event. In general, if your reef is doing well, your fuge will be 'idling' and not very pretty to look at.

Impressive reef/refugiums can be done. You just have to choose corals that can handle higher nutrient levels, like soft corals. Check out Vlangel's thread in the macro section, "High Nutrient Macro Algae/Sea Grass Reef".


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As many naturalists and environmentalists have suggested, we should set aside our arrogance,
our desire to conquer and control everything, and walk hand in hand with Mother Nature. -Walter Adey

Current Tank Info: 180g Seagrass Sandbar Lagoon, START DATE November 28, 2018
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Old 09/09/2020, 06:54 AM   #15
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They are separated

I'm reading through Vlangel's thread- impressive


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Old 09/16/2020, 10:30 AM   #16
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With this being seperated, should I feed the refugium? If so, what should I feed it with?


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Old 09/16/2020, 11:44 AM   #17
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The CNP (Carbon, Nitrogen, Phosphorus) ratio for macros and seagrasses is 550-40-1. These are the big 3 nutrients for plants. Then there are trace elements that get used up quickly in closed systems. The most important one is Iron. Water changes and fish food will take care of the phosphate and trace elements, with an occasional dose of Iron possibly required.

That just leaves Carbon and Nitrogen.

Plants' favorite form of Carbon is CO2. I add CO2 by running a small CO2 tank with a regulator. The output goes into the intake tube of a canister filter, which then puts out CO2-heavy water into the tank. Plants' second favorite form of Carbon is bicarbonates. Plants have to 'work' to convert bicarbs into CO2, but if you don't want to go the CO2 route, this is the next best choice. Google ways to increase bicarbonates in marine aquariums.

Nitrogen is pretty easy. Plants' preferred form of Nitrogen is ammonia, but it's risky to dose it because it can cause algae. Potassium Nitrate is a safer choice. It is sold in hardware stores as stump remover. Mix some up in a jug and start playing around with amounts and frequency of dosing.

I hope this is helpful.


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As many naturalists and environmentalists have suggested, we should set aside our arrogance,
our desire to conquer and control everything, and walk hand in hand with Mother Nature. -Walter Adey

Current Tank Info: 180g Seagrass Sandbar Lagoon, START DATE November 28, 2018
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Old 09/16/2020, 12:08 PM   #18
greg10
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I have a CO2 tank, but it's for other purposes. I am great at dumping fish food.

I'll have to read the chemistry info.

$5 for stump remover, that looks simple.


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Old 09/21/2020, 01:08 PM   #19
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Nitrates are at 5ppm, what should I target for refugium?

I have a small amount of cyano in there


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Old 09/21/2020, 02:16 PM   #20
Michael Hoaster
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Good question. I don't know the answer. That 5ppm sounds good, but I think the optimum number varies. The more plant biomass you have the more Nitrate it can take. It's also linked to light levels. The more light, the higher the nutrients can be run. And it varies with the plants. Fast-growing greens like caulerpa can use more, slower growers like the reds need less.

Sorry I don't have a better answer. My plant biomass changes drastically after pruning/export, and the variety of plants I have varies wildly in nutrient needs, so I never figured out the perfect level.

You might try lowering Nitrate levels to see what effect it has on the cyano, balancing against the effect on your plants.


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As many naturalists and environmentalists have suggested, we should set aside our arrogance,
our desire to conquer and control everything, and walk hand in hand with Mother Nature. -Walter Adey

Current Tank Info: 180g Seagrass Sandbar Lagoon, START DATE November 28, 2018
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Old 09/21/2020, 03:03 PM   #21
greg10
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I'm going to increase flow for a few days. It's in a dead spot.

I'm not adding any nitrate until the cyano dissapears.


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