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Unread 01/09/2017, 01:08 PM   #1
canadianeh
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Question phosguard vs phosband

what's the difference between Seachem phosguard and phosband? Are they not the same product? What's the pros and cons?

I am intending to use it with a reactor.


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Unread 01/09/2017, 01:22 PM   #2
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They are both useful to lower phosphates in a tank but they are very different products.

Phosguard is alluminium based. Phosban is iron based.

Some people, not all, do not want alluminium based products releasing aluminium in their reef tanks. Some claim no alluminium is released if washed carefully beforehand.
Some report soft corals may react to Phosguard if not washed carefully before use.

Phosguard is cheaper by the volume but you need more to remove phosphates and need to change it more often.

Iron based phosphate removers have gained more popularity in general with reefers these days.


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Unread 01/09/2017, 01:30 PM   #3
canadianeh
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They are both useful to lower phosphates in a tank but they are very different products.

Phosguard is alluminium based. Phosban is iron based.

Some people, not all, do not want alluminium based products releasing aluminium in their reef tanks. Some claim no alluminium is released if washed carefully beforehand.
Some report soft corals may react to Phosguard if not washed carefully before use.

Phosguard is cheaper by the volume but you need more to remove phosphates and need to change it more often.

Iron based phosphate removers have gained more popularity in general with reefers these days.
Rowaphos.....is this stuff really much better and one of the best out there?


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Unread 01/09/2017, 01:45 PM   #4
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Rowaphos.....is this stuff really much better and one of the best out there?
I am not aware there exists any studies demonstrating better performance of all the stuff out there. Rowaphos is considered by many as one of the best , but it is also the most expensive and I hate it because you need to rince it again and again before use otherwise a red/brown color will tint your whole tank for a few hours at least after introduction. For these reasons alone, I believe there are better choices out there.


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Unread 01/09/2017, 01:48 PM   #5
canadianeh
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I am not aware there exists any studies demonstrating better performance of all the stuff out there. Rowaphos is considered by many as one of the best , but it is also the most expensive and I hate it because you need to rince it again and again before use otherwise a red/brown color will tint your whole tank for a few hours at least after introduction. For these reasons alone, I believe there are better choices out there.
good to know about the rinsing part!

What do you use?


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Unread 01/09/2017, 01:53 PM   #6
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good to know about the rinsing part!

What do you use?
I just bought the one from Aqua Forest...............have not used it yet but the price is great and I read you do not even need to rince it before use.

http://www.reefsolution.com/catalog/...us-p-9117.html


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Unread 01/09/2017, 02:49 PM   #7
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I started with GFO but after a few days no matter what I did it would clump up in the reactor and stop tumbling. I switched to Phosguard and have had no problems with any of my corals. I did read about aluminum particles being released and agitating coral, but I have the output from the reactor draining into a filter sock and none of the corals seem to be effected. I run it together with GAC separated by sponges and put enough of each so that they get depleted around the same time.


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Unread 01/09/2017, 02:57 PM   #8
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. I switched to Phosguard and have had no problems with any of my corals..
I have used Phosguard as well sometimes too and have not witnessed any bad reactions from my corals either.


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Unread 01/09/2017, 03:32 PM   #9
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is there negative effects of continuously running phosband in reactor?


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Unread 01/09/2017, 05:11 PM   #10
Sawen
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is there negative effects of continuously running phosband in reactor?
Make regular tests to make sure you do not completely strip away all phosphates from your reef tank. Are you aiming for an ultra low nutrient system?


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Unread 01/09/2017, 07:19 PM   #11
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All of these products are forms of GFO:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/index.htm

They might be able to lower the phosphate level in a system low enough that corals have problems growing. That seems to be have happened to a number of people, although it's hard to know exactly what's happening in our systems.


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Unread 01/09/2017, 09:58 PM   #12
canadianeh
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Quote:
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Make regular tests to make sure you do not completely strip away all phosphates from your reef tank. Are you aiming for an ultra low nutrient system?
I am starting to get reading on phosphate now despite I am running chaeto ball in one of my AIO chambers. Light is only ON on the chaeto at night time for 12 hours.
I think the phosphate comes from the fish pellets. I only feed them a pinch though.
Last night Phosphate reading was 0.06 ppm. Is this high?

If I run reactor with phosbound, will it not just strip phosphate? Is it okay to have 0 phosphate in reef tank?


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Unread 01/10/2017, 07:46 AM   #13
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I am starting to get reading on phosphate now despite I am running chaeto ball in one of my AIO chambers. Light is only ON on the chaeto at night time for 12 hours.
I think the phosphate comes from the fish pellets. I only feed them a pinch though.
Last night Phosphate reading was 0.06 ppm. Is this high?

If I run reactor with phosbound, will it not just strip phosphate? Is it okay to have 0 phosphate in reef tank?
You will get different answers and opinions on this. What corals are you trying to keep? What are you trying to accomplish? I have a mixed tank and am not aiming for a low nutrient system. I keep my phosphates between 0.02 and 0.08. Most of the time, it is at 0.04. But accuracy of the test kit I use is + or - 0.02.


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Unread 01/10/2017, 08:22 AM   #14
canadianeh
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You will get different answers and opinions on this. What corals are you trying to keep? What are you trying to accomplish? I have a mixed tank and am not aiming for a low nutrient system. I keep my phosphates between 0.02 and 0.08. Most of the time, it is at 0.04. But accuracy of the test kit I use is + or - 0.02.
I am trying to just keep softies and LPS only right now. In the far future, I would like to add only few SPS tops.
I have two spots where I am getting some kind of blackish hair algae. The funny thing is the HA only grow on the Fauna Marin aquascape fix glue that I use to joint the rocks. It is not growing on the rocks. Only on the glue.

That is why I am reducing the lights from 13 hours a day to 10 hours a day. I also want to get GFO reactor as well. This is my reasoning.


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Unread 01/10/2017, 08:38 AM   #15
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You are not targeting colors in an exclusively SPS tank so I do not think you should aim for 0 phosphates. I think your 0.06 is pretty good. Anywhere between 0.02 and 0.06 I think would be a good target. A little algae in a reef tank in my opinion is a sign of good health. If you get too much algae, take your 0.06 down to 0.02. Aiming for 0 may starve your softies and even some LPS. I will let others chime in with other opinions.


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Unread 01/10/2017, 08:42 AM   #16
canadianeh
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You are not targeting colors in an exclusively SPS tank so I do not think you should aim for 0 phosphates. I think your 0.06 is pretty good. Anywhere between 0.02 and 0.06 I think would be a good target. A little algae in a reef tank in my opinion is a sign of good health. If you get too much algae, take your 0.06 down to 0.02. Aiming for 0 may starve your softies and even some LPS. I will let others chime in with other opinions.
but is it only me, or did you find it strange that the HA only grows on the glue portion but not on the rocks?


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Unread 01/10/2017, 08:55 AM   #17
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Maybe the smoother surface makes it easier for algae to attach to?


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Unread 01/10/2017, 02:50 PM   #18
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The rock surface might have other organisms that are inhibiting algal growth, as another idea.


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Unread 01/11/2017, 03:35 PM   #19
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My bryopsis on my coral/invert QT grew on a ball of phosguard...

I have not seen a bad reaction to phosguard. IME people who had a bad reaction likely dropped phosphates rapidly causing the issue. You have to start slow and work your way up.


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Unread 01/12/2017, 11:40 AM   #20
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the HA only grows on the glue portion but not on the rocks?
.

HA is sign of excess nutrients, may also have to do with your 3 month old tank not ready for corals and fish.

Perhaps you can add a refugium.


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Unread 01/12/2017, 11:43 AM   #21
canadianeh
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Originally Posted by tkeracer619 View Post
My bryopsis on my coral/invert QT grew on a ball of phosguard...

I have not seen a bad reaction to phosguard. IME people who had a bad reaction likely dropped phosphates rapidly causing the issue. You have to start slow and work your way up.
Always appreciate valuable opinion from experienced reefer like yourself. I will keep an eye of it.


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Unread 01/12/2017, 11:44 AM   #22
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Always appreciate valuable opinion from experienced reefer like yourself. I will keep an eye of it.
Good now you are learning, make sure to keep up with water changes.


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Unread 01/12/2017, 11:48 AM   #23
canadianeh
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Good now you are learning, make sure to keep up with water changes.
I was responding to the other guy, not you.

Make sure you test your water periodically and keep up with the husbandry. Continue to learn is good for you.


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Unread 01/12/2017, 11:51 AM   #24
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I was responding to the other guy, not you.

Make sure you test your water periodically and keep up with the husbandry. Continue to learn is good for you.
Definitely agree, hope you do the same.

You already made lots of newb mistakes.


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Unread 01/12/2017, 11:54 AM   #25
canadianeh
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Definitely agree, hope you do the same.

You already made lots of newb mistakes.
It is common for newbie to make mistakes. It is mind blowing when someone who is in a hobby for a long time make newbie mistakes.


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