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Unread 08/30/2013, 10:13 PM   #1
fredyu
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Question on using floor jack in the basement to support tank on main floor

Hi,
I am planning to put a 150 gallon aquarium (on metal stand) on the main floor.
I also plan to put a 55 gallon sump under the DT as well.

With water and live rocks, this tanks is over 2000lb+, should I install floor jack from the basement to support the floor joist on the main floor?

specs(main floor)
Floor joist are 2"x8" and the joinst span are 12".

The tank will sit against a wall (side of the house) and sitting perpendicauar to the floor joist (so approximatly 5 to 6 joists supporting the tank)

i took some floor joist picture below.

Also, the metal stand is supported by 4 legs only. is there anything I can DIY between the metal stand and the floor so I can sprend the weight more evently to the floor?

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Frederick


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Unread 08/31/2013, 05:50 AM   #2
billdogg
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A floor jack certainly can't hurt, but probably isn't needed. If you decide to use one, a great way to make it's header? is to sandwich a piece of 3/4 plywood between two 2x6's or 2x8's using screws and glue. place it so that the front of the tank sits on top of it.

No, I'm not a building inspector or construction engineer. I have, however, cracked ~80 year old floor joists because I didn't think about the problem ahead of time. I had a 150DT/50sump and a 120DT/40sump, in the dining room. All seemed fine, then one day it sorta seemed like the floor was extra "springy". A quick trip (and I mean really quick) to HD, some fast work with some scrap lumber, and the floor was once again rock solid.


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Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer
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Unread 08/31/2013, 06:04 AM   #3
fredyu
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Thank Billdog!
So you don't think I need a floor jack to begin with?

Frederick


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Unread 08/31/2013, 06:36 AM   #4
joedc
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I would use a 4x4 the length of the tank placed under the front or slightly past with two screw jacks if the joist don't hit the 4x4 shim it don't force it up your floor will be uneven. When I installed tanks for a few years most tanks 125 and up this is what we did


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Unread 08/31/2013, 06:38 AM   #5
joedc
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The problem is how long is the joist run where your putting the tank the longer the weaker


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Unread 08/31/2013, 07:29 AM   #6
billdogg
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using a 4x4 is actually much weaker than using a laminated sandwich like I suggested. Because you are up against an outside (load-bearing) wall, I think it will probably be ok, but once again - my only construction experience is DIY - no formal degree.

When I set my 120DT/50sump up in my living room, I was a bit concerned because the 60g tank that it was replacing would show a small amount of "bounce" when you walked by. It is located in the middle of the room, but is perpendicular to the floor joists, and sits on top of one of the steel I beams that go across the foundation. I was fully prepared to stick an additional floor jack in the middle of my finished basement of needed. What happened instead is that the floor around the tank is now rock solid. go figure.


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Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer
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Unread 08/31/2013, 07:42 AM   #7
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A 4x4 is beyond stronger then you know a cross support with 2 screw jacks is rated and toms of support and if you plan to laminate a floor to hold weight the performance is only as good as the person doing it


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Unread 08/31/2013, 07:43 AM   #8
fredyu
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Thanks all!

Billdogg, do you have a pic on how you install your sandwich? Do you install the sandwich supported with 2 jack?

As long as I can give .......my wife..... A good night sleep (or give me a good sleep by stopping her from asking me if the tank is going to fall), I will do it.

Frederick


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Unread 09/01/2013, 07:16 AM   #9
ca1ore
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If it is an unfinished basement and a pair of floor jacks won't be overly intrusive, I'd definately put one under each front corner of the tank. Will eliminate deflection.


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Unread 09/01/2013, 08:09 AM   #10
joedc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ca1ore View Post
If it is an unfinished basement and a pair of floor jacks won't be overly intrusive, I'd definately put one under each front corner of the tank. Will eliminate deflection.
That's what I'm saying I'd use a header also


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Unread 09/01/2013, 10:20 AM   #11
albano
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I believe the floor jacks should be on 'plates', not directly on the concrete/flooring


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Unread 09/01/2013, 01:52 PM   #12
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I'd be more concerned with the stand having feet that its putting all its weight on vs a full perimeter base to distribute its weight, the thought of one of those feet punching a hole or slowly depressing a large dent in the flooring could be very problematic.


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Unread 09/01/2013, 02:12 PM   #13
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Sounds like another potential point of failure. By this I mean you put the onus on the jack mechanics "holding their weight" as well ( no pun intended).


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Unread 09/01/2013, 09:19 PM   #14
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you should put the floor jack in before the tank is located. You want to brace the floor before it gets any possible deflection from the weight


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Unread 09/01/2013, 09:25 PM   #15
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This is a screw jack the chance of mechanical failure is as good as winning the powerball and yes I would distribute the load however they have a flange 90% of the time


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Unread 09/01/2013, 09:33 PM   #16
DerekFF
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Question on using floor jack in the basement to support tank on main floor

You're good. A pair of screw jacks would make that bomb proof


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Unread 09/02/2013, 06:01 AM   #17
billdogg
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The "sandwich" of a pair of 2x6's with 3/4" plywood between would be used as a header. Make it long enough to span the full width of the tank plus an additional floor joist on both sides. For example - if the tank is 48" and the floor joists are 16" on center, it will straddle three of them - make your header long enough to span 5 floor joists and use one floor jack in the center.


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Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer
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Unread 09/02/2013, 08:34 AM   #18
dave2184
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Like I said earlier I don't think floor construction is the issue being 2x8s with 12 inch centers.

I'd be more concerned with the fact the bottom of the stand is supporting the tank with all its weight on 4 little feet.


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Unread 09/02/2013, 08:46 AM   #19
ca1ore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schatzi View Post
you should put the floor jack in before the tank is located. You want to brace the floor before it gets any possible deflection from the weight
Deflection is the problem IME. Had a 180 some while back on a similar floor, and as I filled it the beams deflected slightly and the tank went out of level. Lally columns fixed the problem.

Seems like: Two floor jacks, $100, a 2x6 header, $25, two floor plates, $25 ..... Reeftank peace-of-mind ..... Priceless.


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Unread 09/02/2013, 08:46 AM   #20
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Just gonna throw this out there, they make these things called adjusta-posts. Just sayin.


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Unread 09/02/2013, 09:47 AM   #21
albano
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Misled View Post
Just gonna throw this out there, they make these things called adjusta-posts. Just sayin.
Can't speak for everyone else, but adjustable posts/lally columns/floor jacks is exactly what I'm referring to


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Unread 09/02/2013, 10:38 AM   #22
Misled
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Just making sure.


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Unread 09/02/2013, 01:12 PM   #23
joedc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albano View Post
Can't speak for everyone else, but adjustable posts/lally columns/floor jacks is exactly what I'm referring to
There the same thing and also I see the joist size witch is pretty strong but the longer the joist the weaker


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Unread 09/02/2013, 08:42 PM   #24
fredyu
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thanks for all your reply!

Quote:
Originally Posted by albano View Post
I believe the floor jacks should be on 'plates', not directly on the concrete/flooring
I the 'plates' something you buy from hardware store? or something you DIY from wood?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave2184 View Post
I'd be more concerned with the stand having feet that its putting all its weight on vs a full perimeter base to distribute its weight, the thought of one of those feet punching a hole or slowly depressing a large dent in the flooring could be very problematic.
Dave, this is actually more concern to me too. I am thanking building a frame with 2"x4" and have all 4 legs sitting on the frame so to avoid the feet punching a hole or dent the floor. also the frame will distribute the weight to the frame and then to the floor. do you have any other suggestion?

Quote:
Originally Posted by billdogg View Post
The "sandwich" of a pair of 2x6's with 3/4" plywood between would be used as a header. Make it long enough to span the full width of the tank plus an additional floor joist on both sides. For example - if the tank is 48" and the floor joists are 16" on center, it will straddle three of them - make your header long enough to span 5 floor joists and use one floor jack in the center.
Thanks Billdogg, I will do what you suggest for sure

Quote:
Originally Posted by joedc View Post
There the same thing and also I see the joist size witch is pretty strong but the longer the joist the weaker
The joist run from the wall to the "I" beam around 12 feet long. The tank will be located on the wall side of the joist.


Frederick


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Unread 09/17/2013, 09:04 PM   #25
fredyu
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I found a good articles explaining Residential Wood Framed Floors and Aquarium Weights if you are interested

http://badmanstropicalfish.com/articles/article28.html

Frederick


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