Acro Eating Flatworms in a Bowl: Test Time! - Page 2

Jovreefer · 01/31/2006, 01:02 PM

FWIW a guy in my reef club was playing with these flatworms. He says it takes them 5 days with no acro's to die. They will not touch pocillipora or digitata either.

If I remember correctly ...14 days for the worms to hatch and another month or longer before they get big enough to see with the naked eye. They can reproduce before they are visable also.

Nothing kills the eggs either and they will lay eggs on soft corals and rocks as well so you are NOT safe if you just scrape the eggs off dead coral areas and dip the coral! You MUST QT all incomming corals for 3 MONTHS to be sure you do not introduce them into your system!

(the above is just regurgatated from him)

Please EVERYONE QT...we can stop the spread of these nasty worms if we are honest and do proper QT on EVERY new coral!

I dont have these nasty critters (knock on wood) and I QT everything that comes in. If I ever find a worm that frag will be tossed in the trash...I dont care if its a PM! I'd rather not risk it in my tank. I've spent to much money and time in my LITTLE 20 gallon tank to ever want to see ANYTHING in my tank. I dont undersand why others dont think this way...

I've read countless posts on FWE not working in higher doses on juvinile bugs, As well as the other treatments mentioned above...the only one with good results is Levamisole. Why play roulette with these other treatments?

weatherson · 01/31/2006, 02:03 PM

Jovreefer,

Thanks for the additional info as it helps to better understand and thus fight these bastards. Your recommendation for quarantining your new additions is sound advice but... we are discussing the eradication of a tank already infested. Some people weren't even aware of these pests prior to finding them in their tanks. I think anyone who had previously had always done proper dipping of their corals and yet has these pests in their tank is now well aware of the need to quarantine or at least update his or her dipping method as new issues arrive.

Unfortunately, in my opinion, you lost credibility with me when you stated that you simply discard a new coral if you find a worm on it. Can you imagine how many living corals would be purposely killed if everyone were to take this course of irresponsible action? So you quarantine new additions for the sake of the corals in your tank but the new acquisitions are expendable? Hmm.

If you've read countless other threads regarding these flat worms and their treatments, then surely you recognize that it takes many attempts with different treatments to try and find one or more that are effective. Bear in mind that many people have found to have these in their tanks that are virtually impossible to remove all their corals from to treat them outside of the tank. Again, while the future may include the quarantining of all corals, the task at hand is attempting to find what will kill them in the tank, whether via chemical or a natural predator.

When I placed multiple age worms (see the above photo with newly hatched worms) in a bowl and did a FWE treatment on them, all the worms perished. Adults and juveniles alike. But, you did say "juvinile bugs", so perhaps you are not referring to AEFW's. Personally, I am not play roulette with my tank but rather researched and slowly ramped up to stronger dosages with close observation between increased dosages. There would be no progress if everyone didn't push the envelope some. As long as it's respectful of the potential possibilities and with having gathered as much knowledge in advance, this can be done without catastrophic results. But then again, this is all just my opinion.

Jovreefer · 01/31/2006, 02:50 PM

First I'd like to just state...I'm in NO way attacking anyone here if it came across like that I'm sorry. I understand that we just found out about these FW's and some have probably had them for a while. I also understand that alot of people have large colonies attached to structure pieces of rock and simply cannot take the coral out to treat. What I would be attacking is if someone who had these knowingly sold corals to someone else thinking FWE cured them or just not doing anything and selling them & people not using proper QT techniques NOW since we know some of the horrible devistating things that could infest our tanks & knowing there is always that irresponsible reefer that will sell corals with bugs on them.

According to the person who did the tests on the FW's you cannot see juvinile ones even with a regular magnafying glass, you can however see "shiney" movements if you use a good macro camra and take multipul pictures as fast as possible. So the ones you SAW dieing were small adults, not juvi's. (maybe he will see this thread and chime in...I dont have links to his tests) He did say that the levamisol did kill all BUT eggs.

I'm sorry I lost credibility with you with my practices...but thats just me... I'm not going to risk a healthy tank with beautiful corals that I've spent countless hours on just to try to rid a frag of FW's to find out 6 months down the road there was that one egg stuck inside the frag rock and has hatched, laid new eggs in rocks and these eggs have been dipped and hatched, laid more in rocks and because I've done my 3 month QT thinking I'm safe I've now infected my tank.

REMEMBER...Eggs are UNAFFECTED BY ANY DIP SO FAR.. And HAVE BEEN PHOTOGRAPHED ON ROCKS AND SOFT CORALS NEXT TO SPS, they do not only lay on SPS. So...remembering this... Yes I do think its perfectly fine to thow away a coral that has FW's in QT to protect the health of my tank.

I dont think your playing rouleete with your tank if you already had them either... as long as your not effecting new corals or exporting corals out of your tank. Personally if I found worms in my tank... after alot of crying and why me's I'd be so depressed about it I'd give the acro's to someone doing research & let the tank sit acro- less till someone found a tank cure AND an egg cure before I ever got back into SPS. I applaud everyone who is doing tests and trying to find ways to erradacate them.

Jovreefer · 01/31/2006, 02:55 PM

Whew...I write alot! sorry

Oh...and do I get some credibiliy back if I say, If I get an infected frag and the guy thats doing the tests wants it to do more tests with I'd be more than happy to give it to him instead of trashing it?

stonecold · 01/31/2006, 03:15 PM

what is the outcome if one chooses to do nothing about it? Will the acro dies in given time?

Sparkss · 01/31/2006, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jovreefer
.. And HAVE BEEN PHOTOGRAPHED ON ROCKS AND SOFT CORALS NEXT TO SPS, they do not only lay on SPS.

This is exactly why an in tank treatment is needed so badly. And levamisol so far has not proven to be a safe in tank treatment, not by a long shot. To adequatley treat a tank with it, all corals could have to be removed, not leaving any remnants behind on the rockworks (all encrusting slivers of skin would need to be found and chipped/scraped off) and then the corals treated with the Levamisol and QTed for weeks (to allow for any eggs to hatch and die in both the QT and main tanks, since the lifespan is 5 days, but I don't know the eggs gestation period before they hatch). If any coral skin were left behind, fallen down behind a rock or whatever, then this treatment option would still fail.

...Eggs are UNAFFECTED BY ANY DIP SO FAR..

Which is why we do multiple treatments across several weeks, in an attempt to break the life cycle of these pests. So far as I know, no pest control scheme has proven effective against a pests eggs (any pest). That is more or less the nature of an egg, to keep the embryo safe until such a time as it is ready to hatch.

Sparkss · 01/31/2006, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by stonecold
what is the outcome if one chooses to do nothing about it? Will the acro dies in given time?

The given time = days or weeks, depending on the size of the colony

weatherson · 01/31/2006, 03:39 PM

Quote:

First I'd like to just state...I'm in NO way attacking anyone here if it came across like that I'm sorry. I understand that we just found out about these FW's and some have probably had them for a while. I also understand that alot of people have large colonies attached to structure pieces of rock and simply cannot take the coral out to treat. What I would be attacking is if someone who had these knowingly sold corals to someone else thinking FWE cured them or just not doing anything and selling them & people not using proper QT techniques NOW since we know some of the horrible devistating things that could infest our tanks & knowing there is always that irresponsible reefer that will sell corals with bugs on them.

Agreed and no personal attack was felt.

Quote:

According to the person who did the tests on the FW's you cannot see juvinile ones even with a regular magnafying glass, you can however see "shiney" movements if you use a good macro camra and take multipul pictures as fast as possible. So the ones you SAW dieing were small adults, not juvi's. (maybe he will see this thread and chime in...I dont have links to his tests) He did say that the levamisol did kill all BUT eggs.

I hope this person does chime in as I am curious as to his findings but... I have the photo I took to go on and to me, it sure looks as if the white, small worms are newly hatched. The majority of them are positioned on or near the darker looking eggs. I am assuming these are empty eggs compared to the lighter brown eggs seen in close proximity, seemingly still with worms inside. Thus, the lighter color of the egg itself beings its transparency.

Quote:

I'm sorry I lost credibility with you with my practices...but thats just me... I'm not going to risk a healthy tank with beautiful corals that I've spent countless hours on just to try to rid a frag of FW's to find out 6 months down the road there was that one egg stuck inside the frag rock and has hatched, laid new eggs in rocks and these eggs have been dipped and hatched, laid more in rocks and because I've done my 3 month QT thinking I'm safe I've now infected my tank.

REMEMBER...Eggs are UNAFFECTED BY ANY DIP SO FAR.. And HAVE BEEN PHOTOGRAPHED ON ROCKS AND SOFT CORALS NEXT TO SPS, they do not only lay on SPS. So...remembering this... Yes I do think its perfectly fine to thow away a coral that has FW's in QT to protect the health of my tank.

First of all, I am going to assume the use of all caps is a means of stressing your point and not the standard use of yelling. Italics is a better option.

As to the credibility issue, is not a quarantine tank for observation as well as treatment when issues are found? Part of the research involved with these pests is learning their life cycle to enable the timely treatment. Observation would show the time of hatching and allow for treatment at this time. This is not even considering the potential for finding a treatment/natural predator (there always is one) that is capable of eradicating even the eggs. Time will tell. If your intent is to trash an infected coral, I'd suggest you not purchase, trade or acquire any new corals. Donating them to a reputable researcher is definitely a viable alternative. Credibility renewed.

By the way, I have a 240-gallon tank with approximately 80 SPS corals. Giving all your corals to research in your mentioned scenario is commendable but not an option in my case.

Stonecold, Yes, the coral succumbs to these pests due to their appetite for the coral's tissue (zooxanthalae).

Joseph

Sparkss · 01/31/2006, 03:44 PM

Joseph,

FWE ordered from Marine Depot (none avail locally) along with sufficient extra GAC. I should have it by Thursday and will most likely do the first treatment Thursday evening. I will post he results here (and will keep checking up on your status and any updates in the mean time

)

Jovreefer · 01/31/2006, 03:45 PM

I posted in one of my long posts...egg gestation is MIN 14 days before they start to hatch. These worms live months after hatching...they will die in 5 days ONLY if there is no food. Just to clear that up...it seemed like from your post that you thought that was their life expectancy with food.

From what the person who did these tests says a few weeks is not suffecient QT time period. QT should be done for 3 MONTHS. This will assure you that you have a chance to break the life cycle of the eggs that hatch and produce more eggs that hatch. While of course doing weekly or bi-weekly dips.

Edit: wow I'm slow...3 posts since I began typing this lol.
Weatherson...yes the all caps is for ATTENTION GRABBING as well as stressing my point...no yelling

YIKES...a 240gal infected?!?!? I think I'd ...wow...I dunno...I owe you a box of tissues though just for hearing how big your tank is.

weatherson · 01/31/2006, 03:52 PM

Research hungry minds sure would like to either know who this mystery person is or a link to his documented findings, if they have been documented. Second hand info stated as fact is a little bothersome. Have you forgotten where you read this info or was it given to you first hand?

Jovreefer · 01/31/2006, 03:57 PM

Hmm... Like I said I'm just regurgatating what I've herd from this guy. As far as the eggs and newly hatched worms ...can you see them with the naked eye or must you use a lense to see them? from what he says you cant see newly hatched ones with the naked eye so I dunno

I'm only looking for "1" more sps (a deep water one) and I'm done with stocking so no more purchasing...or tossing corals

Jovreefer · 01/31/2006, 03:58 PM

He's posted on here and on the reef clubs site ( I never book marked sorry)...name is one eye...I'm leaving work now but when I get home I'll send him a PM about this thread and hopefully he'll chime in

Sparkss · 01/31/2006, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jovreefer
These worms live months after hatching...they will die in 5 days ONLY if there is no food. Just to clear that up...it seemed like from your post that you thought that was their life expectancy with food.

No, we were on the same page. The 5 days lifespan was without food. Similar to the lifespan of that other pest, the LRBs, but not to get off topic.

EDIT : I would also like to see the research documentation for the 14 day gestation period prior to hatching. That would seem to indicate that a minimum of 3 treatments, each 1 week apart, was needed to break the lifecycle, and that only if the 1st treatment was successful in erradicating any living specimens.

We have over 160 gallons total water volume, so I know exactly how Joseph feels and also how important an in tank treatment is.

Thank you for sharing your information and expereinces

weatherson · 01/31/2006, 04:11 PM

Heck, I could barely see the eggs with my eyes.

Here's the shots again for quick reference...

Joseph

Jovreefer · 01/31/2006, 06:29 PM

here is one of one eyes threads...I skipped it straite to page 3, the first 2 were nothing importaint...I'm not sure if this one has the 14 day gestation on it but I think so.
http://216.235.242.50/forums/showthr...t=12107&page=3

Jovreefer · 01/31/2006, 06:54 PM

check the acro flatworms I gotem you treat em thead too...I think he chimes in there.

Bigred · 01/31/2006, 07:35 PM

Well not to top off with the biggest system with AEFWs but my 380 with 400+ total. That's why I think we need to find something to treat the tank, not just predipping/QTing the corals before putting them in. I figured they lay eggs on corals since that's the only place that I think would be logical. The adult pic a suitable coral for the babies to hatch and feed on as soon as they hatch. I have found probably close to 100 AEFWs but so far only 2 packs of eggs. So I have dipped the same coral I found them on and they don't have them anymore. This is over a weeks period of time. Maybe they do prefer certain coral and maybe certain colors. The only corals I found them on were brown/green in color. The really like Valida's.

Sparkss · 02/01/2006, 01:45 AM

Steve,

I agree wholeheartedly about the absolute need for an in tank treatment. You had mentioned that your tests with FWE was unsuccessful in killing the AEFWs. Can you think of any differences or reasons that your tests had such different results than Josephs ? different batch or expiration date on the FWE ? Different strains of AEFWs ? Others have had hit and miss success using FWE, so the topic is wide open for speculation. At this point I am willing to try almost anything to erradicate these little monsters. You and Joseph are from the same reef club, so the chances of all things being equal has better odds than not....Many thanks again for all of your testing and efforts.. and for sharing your expereinces here on RC

Bigred · 02/01/2006, 08:16 AM

I think it might be that my FWE is too old. I have had it for over a year. I just got the Tropic Marin Pro-Coral Cure which is supposed kill all coral parasites according to there website. This is what it says on the box in the last sentence:

Therefore it is recommended to preventively treat all newly purchased Acropora corals with TMPCC and to apply PCC to all corals which are attacked by flatworms.

Treatment is 1 ML of TMPCC to 200ML of SW. The bottle of TMPCC is 200 ML.

imbuggin · 02/01/2006, 10:08 AM

weatherson....sorry to say but I agree. I threw out 6-7 years growth on 90% of my corals about 9 month to a year ago.(all my montis were tossed as well (some basketball size). I will not add any corals now until a full tank solution is in place. I took everything out of my 300 gallon and scrubbed,fragged, and tossed out.

Now things are colored up and litteraly growing from encrusted patches on the rock. I also have added tons of wrasses and blast all rocks and corals twice a week with a tunze.

This may be drastic, but I was sick of watching my prize corals get eaten. Now at least I see some growth again. I was ready to make my 300 a fish only I was so frustrated.

Bigred · 02/01/2006, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bigred
Treatment is 1 ML of TMPCC to 200ML of SW. The bottle of TMPCC is 200 ML.

Does this caculate out to one bottle of 200 ml will treat 1/2 gal of water?

TA · 02/01/2006, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bigred
Does this caculate out to one bottle of 200 ml will treat 1/2 gal of water?

No...200 ml will treat approx 10 gal.

slug · 02/01/2006, 01:01 PM

Quote:

They really like Valida's

This was my experience as well.

I think I've gotten aefw under control in my tank by fragging badly infected colonies, blowing off rocks and corals occaionally with a powerhead, and adding a bunch of wrasses.

Anyone have aefw who also has many wrasses?

Sparkss · 02/01/2006, 01:09 PM

I also ordered 2 bottles of TMPCC about a week ago, for dipping any new additions. We will be picking it up at our next frag swap the weekend after next

.

Still hoping for good success with an in tank treatment for the existing corals that I can't pull to dip. I should have the FWE tomorrow.. hopefully it will be up to the task

.

01/31/2006, 01:02 PM	#26
Jovreefer Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: In my tank Posts: 2,462	FWIW a guy in my reef club was playing with these flatworms. He says it takes them 5 days with no acro's to die. They will not touch pocillipora or digitata either. If I remember correctly ...14 days for the worms to hatch and another month or longer before they get big enough to see with the naked eye. They can reproduce before they are visable also. Nothing kills the eggs either and they will lay eggs on soft corals and rocks as well so you are NOT safe if you just scrape the eggs off dead coral areas and dip the coral! You MUST QT all incomming corals for 3 MONTHS to be sure you do not introduce them into your system! (the above is just regurgatated from him) Please EVERYONE QT...we can stop the spread of these nasty worms if we are honest and do proper QT on EVERY new coral! I dont have these nasty critters (knock on wood) and I QT everything that comes in. If I ever find a worm that frag will be tossed in the trash...I dont care if its a PM! I'd rather not risk it in my tank. I've spent to much money and time in my LITTLE 20 gallon tank to ever want to see ANYTHING in my tank. I dont undersand why others dont think this way... I've read countless posts on FWE not working in higher doses on juvinile bugs, As well as the other treatments mentioned above...the only one with good results is Levamisole. Why play roulette with these other treatments? __________________ Men occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing ever happened.

01/31/2006, 02:50 PM	#28
Jovreefer Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: In my tank Posts: 2,462	First I'd like to just state...I'm in NO way attacking anyone here if it came across like that I'm sorry. I understand that we just found out about these FW's and some have probably had them for a while. I also understand that alot of people have large colonies attached to structure pieces of rock and simply cannot take the coral out to treat. What I would be attacking is if someone who had these knowingly sold corals to someone else thinking FWE cured them or just not doing anything and selling them & people not using proper QT techniques NOW since we know some of the horrible devistating things that could infest our tanks & knowing there is always that irresponsible reefer that will sell corals with bugs on them. According to the person who did the tests on the FW's you cannot see juvinile ones even with a regular magnafying glass, you can however see "shiney" movements if you use a good macro camra and take multipul pictures as fast as possible. So the ones you SAW dieing were small adults, not juvi's. (maybe he will see this thread and chime in...I dont have links to his tests) He did say that the levamisol did kill all BUT eggs. I'm sorry I lost credibility with you with my practices...but thats just me... I'm not going to risk a healthy tank with beautiful corals that I've spent countless hours on just to try to rid a frag of FW's to find out 6 months down the road there was that one egg stuck inside the frag rock and has hatched, laid new eggs in rocks and these eggs have been dipped and hatched, laid more in rocks and because I've done my 3 month QT thinking I'm safe I've now infected my tank. REMEMBER...Eggs are UNAFFECTED BY ANY DIP SO FAR.. And HAVE BEEN PHOTOGRAPHED ON ROCKS AND SOFT CORALS NEXT TO SPS, they do not only lay on SPS. So...remembering this... Yes I do think its perfectly fine to thow away a coral that has FW's in QT to protect the health of my tank. I dont think your playing rouleete with your tank if you already had them either... as long as your not effecting new corals or exporting corals out of your tank. Personally if I found worms in my tank... after alot of crying and why me's I'd be so depressed about it I'd give the acro's to someone doing research & let the tank sit acro- less till someone found a tank cure AND an egg cure before I ever got back into SPS. I applaud everyone who is doing tests and trying to find ways to erradacate them. __________________ Men occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing ever happened.

01/31/2006, 02:55 PM	#29
Jovreefer Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: In my tank Posts: 2,462	Whew...I write alot! sorry Oh...and do I get some credibiliy back if I say, If I get an infected frag and the guy thats doing the tests wants it to do more tests with I'd be more than happy to give it to him instead of trashing it? __________________ Men occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing ever happened.

01/31/2006, 03:15 PM	#30
stonecold Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Ashburn, VA Posts: 679	what is the outcome if one chooses to do nothing about it? Will the acro dies in given time? __________________ TOTM - May 2014

01/31/2006, 03:44 PM	#34
Sparkss Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Oakley (94561) Posts: 5,030	Joseph, FWE ordered from Marine Depot (none avail locally) along with sufficient extra GAC. I should have it by Thursday and will most likely do the first treatment Thursday evening. I will post he results here (and will keep checking up on your status and any updates in the mean time ) __________________ - Tom Current Tank Info: 380 starfire inwall ,two 150g sump/fuge. Volcano Ca RX, ato, 6' Volcano skimmer. LAIIIs w/400w AquaConnect 14K on IC EBallasts

01/31/2006, 02:03 PM	#27
weatherson Premium Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: California Posts: 2,022	Jovreefer, Thanks for the additional info as it helps to better understand and thus fight these bastards. Your recommendation for quarantining your new additions is sound advice but... we are discussing the eradication of a tank already infested. Some people weren't even aware of these pests prior to finding them in their tanks. I think anyone who had previously had always done proper dipping of their corals and yet has these pests in their tank is now well aware of the need to quarantine or at least update his or her dipping method as new issues arrive. Unfortunately, in my opinion, you lost credibility with me when you stated that you simply discard a new coral if you find a worm on it. Can you imagine how many living corals would be purposely killed if everyone were to take this course of irresponsible action? So you quarantine new additions for the sake of the corals in your tank but the new acquisitions are expendable? Hmm. If you've read countless other threads regarding these flat worms and their treatments, then surely you recognize that it takes many attempts with different treatments to try and find one or more that are effective. Bear in mind that many people have found to have these in their tanks that are virtually impossible to remove all their corals from to treat them outside of the tank. Again, while the future may include the quarantining of all corals, the task at hand is attempting to find what will kill them in the tank, whether via chemical or a natural predator. When I placed multiple age worms (see the above photo with newly hatched worms) in a bowl and did a FWE treatment on them, all the worms perished. Adults and juveniles alike. But, you did say "juvinile bugs", so perhaps you are not referring to AEFW's. Personally, I am not play roulette with my tank but rather researched and slowly ramped up to stronger dosages with close observation between increased dosages. There would be no progress if everyone didn't push the envelope some. As long as it's respectful of the potential possibilities and with having gathered as much knowledge in advance, this can be done without catastrophic results. But then again, this is all just my opinion.

01/31/2006, 03:45 PM	#35
Jovreefer Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: In my tank Posts: 2,462	I posted in one of my long posts...egg gestation is MIN 14 days before they start to hatch. These worms live months after hatching...they will die in 5 days ONLY if there is no food. Just to clear that up...it seemed like from your post that you thought that was their life expectancy with food. From what the person who did these tests says a few weeks is not suffecient QT time period. QT should be done for 3 MONTHS. This will assure you that you have a chance to break the life cycle of the eggs that hatch and produce more eggs that hatch. While of course doing weekly or bi-weekly dips. Edit: wow I'm slow...3 posts since I began typing this lol. Weatherson...yes the all caps is for ATTENTION GRABBING as well as stressing my point...no yelling YIKES...a 240gal infected?!?!? I think I'd ...wow...I dunno...I owe you a box of tissues though just for hearing how big your tank is. __________________ Men occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing ever happened.

01/31/2006, 03:52 PM	#36
weatherson Premium Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: California Posts: 2,022	Research hungry minds sure would like to either know who this mystery person is or a link to his documented findings, if they have been documented. Second hand info stated as fact is a little bothersome. Have you forgotten where you read this info or was it given to you first hand?

01/31/2006, 03:57 PM	#37
Jovreefer Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: In my tank Posts: 2,462	Hmm... Like I said I'm just regurgatating what I've herd from this guy. As far as the eggs and newly hatched worms ...can you see them with the naked eye or must you use a lense to see them? from what he says you cant see newly hatched ones with the naked eye so I dunno I'm only looking for "1" more sps (a deep water one) and I'm done with stocking so no more purchasing...or tossing corals __________________ Men occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing ever happened.

01/31/2006, 03:58 PM	#38
Jovreefer Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: In my tank Posts: 2,462	He's posted on here and on the reef clubs site ( I never book marked sorry)...name is one eye...I'm leaving work now but when I get home I'll send him a PM about this thread and hopefully he'll chime in __________________ Men occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing ever happened.

01/31/2006, 04:11 PM	#40
weatherson Premium Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: California Posts: 2,022	Heck, I could barely see the eggs with my eyes. Here's the shots again for quick reference... Joseph

01/31/2006, 06:29 PM	#41
Jovreefer Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: In my tank Posts: 2,462	here is one of one eyes threads...I skipped it straite to page 3, the first 2 were nothing importaint...I'm not sure if this one has the 14 day gestation on it but I think so. http://216.235.242.50/forums/showthr...t=12107&page=3 __________________ Men occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing ever happened.

01/31/2006, 06:54 PM	#42
Jovreefer Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: In my tank Posts: 2,462	check the acro flatworms I gotem you treat em thead too...I think he chimes in there. __________________ Men occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing ever happened.

01/31/2006, 07:35 PM	#43
Bigred The Truth Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ Posts: 2,401	Well not to top off with the biggest system with AEFWs but my 380 with 400+ total. That's why I think we need to find something to treat the tank, not just predipping/QTing the corals before putting them in. I figured they lay eggs on corals since that's the only place that I think would be logical. The adult pic a suitable coral for the babies to hatch and feed on as soon as they hatch. I have found probably close to 100 AEFWs but so far only 2 packs of eggs. So I have dipped the same coral I found them on and they don't have them anymore. This is over a weeks period of time. Maybe they do prefer certain coral and maybe certain colors. The only corals I found them on were brown/green in color. The really like Valida's. __________________ Water change? What is that? Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef

02/01/2006, 01:45 AM	#44
Sparkss Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Oakley (94561) Posts: 5,030	Steve, I agree wholeheartedly about the absolute need for an in tank treatment. You had mentioned that your tests with FWE was unsuccessful in killing the AEFWs. Can you think of any differences or reasons that your tests had such different results than Josephs ? different batch or expiration date on the FWE ? Different strains of AEFWs ? Others have had hit and miss success using FWE, so the topic is wide open for speculation. At this point I am willing to try almost anything to erradicate these little monsters. You and Joseph are from the same reef club, so the chances of all things being equal has better odds than not....Many thanks again for all of your testing and efforts.. and for sharing your expereinces here on RC __________________ - Tom Current Tank Info: 380 starfire inwall ,two 150g sump/fuge. Volcano Ca RX, ato, 6' Volcano skimmer. LAIIIs w/400w AquaConnect 14K on IC EBallasts

02/01/2006, 08:16 AM	#45
Bigred The Truth Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ Posts: 2,401	I think it might be that my FWE is too old. I have had it for over a year. I just got the Tropic Marin Pro-Coral Cure which is supposed kill all coral parasites according to there website. This is what it says on the box in the last sentence: Therefore it is recommended to preventively treat all newly purchased Acropora corals with TMPCC and to apply PCC to all corals which are attacked by flatworms. Treatment is 1 ML of TMPCC to 200ML of SW. The bottle of TMPCC is 200 ML. __________________ Water change? What is that? Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef

02/01/2006, 10:08 AM	#46
imbuggin Moved On Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: chicago Posts: 1,495	weatherson weatherson....sorry to say but I agree. I threw out 6-7 years growth on 90% of my corals about 9 month to a year ago.(all my montis were tossed as well (some basketball size). I will not add any corals now until a full tank solution is in place. I took everything out of my 300 gallon and scrubbed,fragged, and tossed out. Now things are colored up and litteraly growing from encrusted patches on the rock. I also have added tons of wrasses and blast all rocks and corals twice a week with a tunze. This may be drastic, but I was sick of watching my prize corals get eaten. Now at least I see some growth again. I was ready to make my 300 a fish only I was so frustrated.

02/01/2006, 01:09 PM	#50
Sparkss Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Oakley (94561) Posts: 5,030	I also ordered 2 bottles of TMPCC about a week ago, for dipping any new additions. We will be picking it up at our next frag swap the weekend after next . Still hoping for good success with an in tank treatment for the existing corals that I can't pull to dip. I should have the FWE tomorrow.. hopefully it will be up to the task . __________________ - Tom Current Tank Info: 380 starfire inwall ,two 150g sump/fuge. Volcano Ca RX, ato, 6' Volcano skimmer. LAIIIs w/400w AquaConnect 14K on IC EBallasts