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Unread 10/30/2006, 08:02 PM   #1
kelley_mc
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Kelley's 37 gal system. from the start

Well, I've debated quite a bit whether or not to start this thread and decided, why not. The setup will be small by almost all Reef Central standards and it does not fit in the Nano tank thread. However, I realized that many people out there may also be in the same situation I am and they may be interested in the thread of this tank size. So here we go....

DISCLAIMER: I am not an expert. I have about 3 years of experiece and most of my research has come from right here on RC. Any comments, questions and feedback are appreciated.

I first started by building the stand frame. Simple 2x4 construction. Nothing overly complicated.

Here is an image.




Last edited by kelley_mc; 10/30/2006 at 08:18 PM.
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Unread 10/30/2006, 08:07 PM   #2
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I designed the stand so that there is open space behind where the aquarium will sit so that the plumbing will be contained within the stand. Here is a pic with a 20 gal long on the stand where the 37 gal will eventually sit. (Note that the 37 gal has the same footprint as a 20 long.)



The stand, canopy and the area behind the tank will eventually all be "skinned" with oak.


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Unread 10/30/2006, 08:11 PM   #3
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Here is a pic of the sump that I have built.



I made it using a 20 gal tall AGA. Baffles are acrylic and simply installed using silicone. The flow will be from left to right.

Drain (Skimmer) --> Refugium --> Return


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Unread 10/30/2006, 08:14 PM   #4
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Here is a pic of the sump in the stand.




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Unread 10/30/2006, 08:17 PM   #5
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Here is a pic of the tank, stand and sump.



Note: This time the tank on the stand is a 29 gal, not the 37 gal I will be using. I orginally was going to use the 29 gal but at the last minute decided to upgrade to the 37.


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Unread 10/30/2006, 08:26 PM   #6
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Next I installed the refugium light and cooling fan.



Here is a top view to show how I installed the fan and light.



The bulb I am using is a compact fluorescent



Found this on Melev's website.


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Unread 10/30/2006, 08:39 PM   #7
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Next was on to the drilling. I found that it was easiest to use my drill press. I used the lowest speed setting which I believe was about 620 RPMs. I also used a cut top off a plastic cup. I used duct tape to attach it to the tank and filled it with water to keep the dill bit cool. I found the drill bit on E-bay. It cost me about $9 including shipping. I was very pleased with the quality of the bit. I found that keeping the glass and bit wet and at low RPM, it worked great and the bit still looks like new. Here are some pics.



I used 2x4s to keep even pressure on the underside of the glass. I feel that this helped out.



The most important part I found when using the drill press to drill the glass was being sure that the bit sat perfectly level with the glass prior to drilling. I used spare 2x6s and shims to be sure it was just right.




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Unread 10/30/2006, 08:49 PM   #8
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Up next was the painting. I taped off everything that I didn't want painted. Around the drilling holes for my drains, I used the sticker that came with my bulkheads. I then stuck some painters tape on the inside of the tank where the holes were just in case any paint bleed through. None did, but I wanted to be sure.

Here are some pics.


And the finished product after painting.

Back side:



Front side:




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Unread 10/30/2006, 08:52 PM   #9
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You can see the down turned elbows in the pic. I used threaded bulkheads, I painted the white pvc with Krylon fusion paint, let them dry and screwed them in. Here is a closeup




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Unread 10/30/2006, 08:56 PM   #10
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Next I built the pvc drain lines. I used 1 inch pvc and what I believe is a durso design. A small hole was drilled in the cap at the top of the pvc for air flow. Hopefully the system will be quiet. Not way to tell for sure until I perform the wet test.




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Unread 10/30/2006, 09:04 PM   #11
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your water level is going to be really low


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Unread 10/30/2006, 09:20 PM   #12
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are your baffles look too high? i am new to diy sumps so this is more to teach myself.
Thanks for posting it is a great service to new reefers.


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Unread 10/30/2006, 09:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by scaryperson27
your water level is going to be really low
I will be using a Calfo style overflow. Once that is installed, the water level will be raised up above the black trim line.


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Unread 10/30/2006, 09:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by db_triggerfish
are your baffles look too high? i am new to diy sumps so this is more to teach myself.
Thanks for posting it is a great service to new reefers.
The water level will only be as high as the lowest baffles, which is about 3-4 inches below the top of the aquarium. These baffles reach all the way to the bottom. The baffles that are installed higher are open on the bottom to create a bubble trap and have no effect on the water height.

I hope this helps!


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Unread 10/30/2006, 09:34 PM   #15
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More to come...


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Current Tank Info: 37 gal AGA with 20 gal sump/refugium, Coralife Super Skimmer 125, Current Sunpaq 150 watt MH, 2 Koralia Nanos for flow, Ebo Jager 200 and 150 watt heaters, 65 lbs LR (Fiji, Caribbean, Uaniva), Chaeto, Quiet One 4000 return pump, 24 watt UV sterilizer
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Unread 10/30/2006, 09:46 PM   #16
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I love 37 gallon tanks. I had one but sold it here a few month ago and am kicking myself now. I would really love to do dwarf seahorses and that would have made a great tank.


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Current Tank Info: 90 AGA MegaFlow, 120 lbs. LR, RedSea Berlin skimmer, 20 gallon sump, 2 150W Metal Halide
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Unread 10/31/2006, 06:53 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by avshockey311
I love 37 gallon tanks. I had one but sold it here a few month ago and am kicking myself now. I would really love to do dwarf seahorses and that would have made a great tank.
I agree. There is something about there shape that appeals to me. I have had a 37 gal freshwater for years and love the way it looks. When I decided to upgrade my 20 this year and add a sump, I initially was going to do the 29 but didn't like the lack of height. So I decided to go with the 37. The nice thing about the 37 is that the footprint of the 20 long, 29 and 37 are all the same. People with a stand for these can easily change their tank size.


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Unread 10/31/2006, 07:16 AM   #18
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I agree with the comment about the baffles. They actually may be ok, but you're going to be cutting it close if the power goes out. You're going to have water in the pipes that will go down to the sump when the power goes out. Other than that the setup looks great. I have a 37 gallon with a ten gallon sump.


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Unread 10/31/2006, 07:26 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by lgoins
I agree with the comment about the baffles. They actually may be ok, but you're going to be cutting it close if the power goes out. You're going to have water in the pipes that will go down to the sump when the power goes out. Other than that the setup looks great. I have a 37 gallon with a ten gallon sump.
Thanks!

The room available at the top using the Reef Central calculator is 5 gallons based on the 24 x 12 x 4 inches. In addition, there should be room for more water in the pump section as I do not plan on having this area running filled to the top.

I won't be sure until I do the wet test, but hopefully it will be OK. Wish me luck!

If its no good, I will just have to make the change. I want to be safe so if I find that it works but is too close for comfort, I will be changing it.

Thanks for the input. I will hopefully do a wet test this week so I will let you know how it goes.


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Unread 10/31/2006, 09:00 AM   #20
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Last night I ordered about 40 lbs of LR. I will begin cycling this rock as soon as I receive it. I expect delivery this week. The rock is Uaniva Live Rock that I ordered from Salty Critter. So far, the customer service has been great. I was able to specify what size rock I would like. This rock will be added to the 25 lbs of Caribbean LR and 15 lbs of Fiji LR that I already have in my 20 gal setup.

Here are some pics from the Salty Critter site:






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Unread 10/31/2006, 09:38 AM   #21
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Next was on to the overflow box. I liked the look and design of the Calfo style box. Most seem to go across the entire length of the back of the aquarium. I decided to stop it short on both ends for 2 reasons.

1. I didn't want the silicon on the viewable sides of my tank
2. I needed to have openings on both the corners so that I have a location for my returns nozzles from my sump.

Here is a pic of the glass I used to build the box.



Here is the glass clamped together to shape the box




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Unread 10/31/2006, 09:42 AM   #22
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Next was applying the silicon. I did not use painters tape on these seems and I should have. They look OK but would have been nicer if I used the tape to give it a nice clean look.




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Unread 10/31/2006, 09:51 AM   #23
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Once the silicon used to build the box had cured, I installed the box to the aquarium. Leveling is key here. I used levels to confirm that the top plastic rim was level with the bottom of the aquarium and with the sides. Next I used the top rim as a guide and secured the box in place with clamps. I checked this about 10 times using a speed square. I dragged the speed square along the entire edge of the glass to confirm it was even. I did my best to be sure it was as level as possible but I won't know for sure until I do the wet test. Some people say that it is best to put the tank where it is going to be and fill it with water. Then use the water line as the guide as to where to install the box. I am a long way from putting the tank in its final resting place so I had to try to use another method. Hopefully it worked.




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Unread 10/31/2006, 09:57 AM   #24
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I wanted to divert the water flow returning from the sump in more than one location. I settled on using a manifold design. It is very basic and simply the water comes up from the pump into a pvc system that wraps completely around the top edge of the tank. There are two outputs in the back and two in the front.




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Unread 10/31/2006, 10:04 AM   #25
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Here is a pic of the complete drain and return system. I shortened the Calfo box so that I could run the return nozzles along the back edge of the aquarium.




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