How to tell if glass is etched or water-marked?

pompeyjohn · 05/03/2013, 06:19 PM

I have attacked this glass with vinegar, razor blades and CLR. The marks still remain around where the water line was. None seem to be having an effect. My thinking was that as the marks were around the water line that it would be mineral deposits. But I cant get this glass clean. Could it be etched?

pompeyjohn · 05/04/2013, 03:17 PM

Here are some pics - what do you think?

Thanks

drdoolittle · 05/04/2013, 03:28 PM

Nice tank John. What dimensions is that?

Vinegar soak for a day or two didn't work?

pompeyjohn · 05/04/2013, 03:44 PM

nope vinegar soak didn't work

Yeah the dimensions are great - that is why I bought, filled with dirty water. It is around 47 gallons.

Int. dimensions 28 1/2w x 21 1/8d x16h
Ext. dimensions 29 1/8w x 21 7/8d x 17h

drdoolittle · 05/04/2013, 04:58 PM

How does it look with water in it? Clear?

My experience vinegar soak and razor does the job. Seen that on acrylic but not on glass.

Hope you get it off.

pompeyjohn · 05/04/2013, 06:42 PM

visible even with vinegar

tomorrow I think I am going to experiment with creating a little dam area using plumbers putty and then filling it with muratic acid.

saveafish · 05/04/2013, 06:47 PM

Try CRL. Put it on a paper towel and and lay the soaked paper towel on it for a few hrs keeping it wet with CRL.

drdoolittle · 05/05/2013, 08:56 AM

Muratic acid is strong. Hope it works.

uncleof6 · 05/05/2013, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pompeyjohn

visible even with vinegar

tomorrow I think I am going to experiment with creating a little dam area using plumbers putty and then filling it with muratic acid.

I would not experiment too much. Generally, Hard Water deposits are relatively easy to remove. In SOME cases, Acetic Acid will be all that is needed. (Vinegar.) If that does not do it, you need to get a specially formulated hard water deposit remover. They are made for pro window cleaners, not what you will find at HD. Shop around. The next step up is POSPHORIC Acid. However, if you haven't got it all off, what remains is silicates. Silicates are next to impossible to remove. Hydrofluoric Acid, is the best bet, for removing silicates.

However, you have to be careful with acids and glass. If you are working on the tin side of the glass, many acids will react with the tin embedded in the glass, causing a "gray haze." Some recommend mechanical polishing to remove these stains. In most cases, after spending time ad infinitum, polishing will probably work quicker. In many cases, the only way to get rid of the stains is to replace the glass.

I would not spend much time on it, in the end, it is pretty much a wasted effort.

saveafish · 05/05/2013, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uncleof6

However, you have to be careful with acids and glass. If you are working on the tin side of the glass, many acids will react with the tin embedded in the glass, causing a "gray haze." Some recommend mechanical polishing to remove these stains. In most cases, after spending time ad infinitum, polishing will probably work quicker. In many cases, the only way to get rid of the stains is to replace the glass.

That might very well be the reason it is already that way.

sleepydoc · 05/05/2013, 06:49 PM

Be VERY careful with hydrofluoric acid. In fact, I would recommend not using it at all unless you have the right equipment and experience with it.

pompeyjohn · 05/05/2013, 09:10 PM

Muriatic Acid did nothing to the haze. I think this glass is heading towards the trash can.

JustinGr · 05/06/2013, 09:33 AM

There are a number of automotive glass polish kits available that you can try. They are just a polishing compound that removes scratches and stains. If you are are the point of giving up, its worth a try.

pompeyjohn · 05/06/2013, 11:53 PM

I have some turtle wax heavy duty rubbing compound. I have also heard about diamond powder and cerium oxide. Going to check with friends to see if any have an orbital sander I could use. Thanks all for the comments.

JustinGr · 05/07/2013, 06:20 AM

Most autopart stores (big name) carry the products and they are inexpensive. Some of the places will rent the tools you need.

ashish · 12/10/2017, 04:55 PM

Dude, I have the same problem only my tank is 8 months old. Im waiting on answer from the manufacture.

I hate to tear down my tank and looking for a way to buff it out as razor blade is not working.

I know its been awhile but did the cerium oxide and sander work?

ratherbeflyen · 12/15/2017, 01:31 PM

I converted a peninsula tank to an external overflow. The glass was etched behind the old drain/overflow, once I cleaned it up and filled it with water, you can hardly tell it's etched.

ashish · 12/17/2017, 11:18 PM

I am starting to think my tank has calcium carbonate precipitation on the 2 low iron panels.

I have the seaswirl hitting these 2 panels
I had the 2 part dripping into the return pump chamber but flow was not turbulent enough!
Tanks started developing 4 months after setting up.

I tried to clean with vinegar and razor blade but dont' think it made much of a difference.

I can't see a tank from Coast to Coast being etched below waterline after 6 months!.

anyone else can relate?

05/03/2013, 06:19 PM	#1
pompeyjohn Registered Member. Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 890	How to tell if glass is etched or water-marked? I have attacked this glass with vinegar, razor blades and CLR. The marks still remain around where the water line was. None seem to be having an effect. My thinking was that as the marks were around the water line that it would be mineral deposits. But I cant get this glass clean. Could it be etched?

05/04/2013, 06:47 PM	#7
saveafish Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: indiana Posts: 873	Try CRL. Put it on a paper towel and and lay the soaked paper towel on it for a few hrs keeping it wet with CRL. __________________ If it was'nt for the sea I could not see or sing ( Jimmy Buffet ) I like to glue animals to rocks and put disturbing amounts of electricity and saltwater next to each other Reefing is'nt how long you been in it. It is how deep you get in it. Current Tank Info: 400g display build, 300g sump, 75g ATO, 75g refug and a few more. Close to a 1000g. 200g mixing station.

05/05/2013, 06:49 PM	#11
sleepydoc Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 3,907	Be VERY careful with hydrofluoric acid. In fact, I would recommend not using it at all unless you have the right equipment and experience with it. __________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 120 gallon, coast to coast overflow w/beananimal overflow. Waveline DC 10000 II return pump, 40 gal sump, Octopus XS200 skimmer, T5 lighting

05/06/2013, 09:33 AM	#13
JustinGr Clown Pimp Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Bloomington, IN Posts: 644	There are a number of automotive glass polish kits available that you can try. They are just a polishing compound that removes scratches and stains. If you are are the point of giving up, its worth a try. __________________ Thank You, Justin Grant Current Tank Info: Reef:75 Gallon, 90# LR, SSB, 2x AI SOL Blues Managed by Neptune's Apex, Inland Aquatics Dump Style ATS, 2 Koralia on wave maker, and MP 10 on custom wave.

05/07/2013, 06:20 AM	#15
JustinGr Clown Pimp Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Bloomington, IN Posts: 644	Most autopart stores (big name) carry the products and they are inexpensive. Some of the places will rent the tools you need. __________________ Thank You, Justin Grant Current Tank Info: Reef:75 Gallon, 90# LR, SSB, 2x AI SOL Blues Managed by Neptune's Apex, Inland Aquatics Dump Style ATS, 2 Koralia on wave maker, and MP 10 on custom wave.

05/04/2013, 03:17 PM	#2
pompeyjohn Registered Member. Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 890	Here are some pics - what do you think? Thanks

05/04/2013, 03:28 PM	#3
drdoolittle Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Tracy, California Posts: 1,921	Nice tank John. What dimensions is that? Vinegar soak for a day or two didn't work?

05/04/2013, 03:44 PM	#4
pompeyjohn Registered Member. Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 890	nope vinegar soak didn't work Yeah the dimensions are great - that is why I bought, filled with dirty water. It is around 47 gallons. Int. dimensions 28 1/2w x 21 1/8d x16h Ext. dimensions 29 1/8w x 21 7/8d x 17h

05/04/2013, 04:58 PM	#5
drdoolittle Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Tracy, California Posts: 1,921	How does it look with water in it? Clear? My experience vinegar soak and razor does the job. Seen that on acrylic but not on glass. Hope you get it off.

05/04/2013, 06:42 PM	#6
pompeyjohn Registered Member. Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 890	visible even with vinegar tomorrow I think I am going to experiment with creating a little dam area using plumbers putty and then filling it with muratic acid.

05/05/2013, 08:56 AM	#8
drdoolittle Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Tracy, California Posts: 1,921	Muratic acid is strong. Hope it works.

05/05/2013, 09:10 PM	#12
pompeyjohn Registered Member. Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 890	Muriatic Acid did nothing to the haze. I think this glass is heading towards the trash can.

05/06/2013, 11:53 PM	#14
pompeyjohn Registered Member. Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 890	I have some turtle wax heavy duty rubbing compound. I have also heard about diamond powder and cerium oxide. Going to check with friends to see if any have an orbital sander I could use. Thanks all for the comments.

12/10/2017, 04:55 PM	#16
ashish Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Bridgewater NJ Posts: 500	Dude, I have the same problem only my tank is 8 months old. Im waiting on answer from the manufacture. I hate to tear down my tank and looking for a way to buff it out as razor blade is not working. I know its been awhile but did the cerium oxide and sander work?

12/15/2017, 01:31 PM	#17
ratherbeflyen Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Posts: 107	I converted a peninsula tank to an external overflow. The glass was etched behind the old drain/overflow, once I cleaned it up and filled it with water, you can hardly tell it's etched.

12/17/2017, 11:18 PM	#18
ashish Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Bridgewater NJ Posts: 500	I am starting to think my tank has calcium carbonate precipitation on the 2 low iron panels. I have the seaswirl hitting these 2 panels I had the 2 part dripping into the return pump chamber but flow was not turbulent enough! Tanks started developing 4 months after setting up. I tried to clean with vinegar and razor blade but dont' think it made much of a difference. I can't see a tank from Coast to Coast being etched below waterline after 6 months!. anyone else can relate?