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12/15/2017, 03:49 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Center Valley PA
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About to setup a calcium reactor
So I bit the bullet and got a calcium reactor, I figured it was a good time since I am about to be out of my 2 part.
I bought this as an used package. -korallin 1502 reactor -pinpoint PH monitor -Milwaukee MA957 Dual-Valve CO2 Regulator I would love the $300 carbon doser regulator but I do not have the spare cash for that at this point. I have an order in for an aluminum 5 pound Co2 tank that I will get on Sunday. For the feed, I have a toms aqua lifter. I really would like a masterflex but again I do not have the spare cash at this time. -------------------------- I am looking for any suggestions on how to get this started, where should I start, what should I look out for, something I definitely should or shouldnt do. Also what media do you guys highly recommend? Just look for some help from all the experts out there for someone who has never had a CaRx before. I am excited
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-Cody SPS Dominant 180 gallon. Link to my tank: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2618245 |
12/15/2017, 05:14 PM | #2 |
Ancient Eskimo Legend
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The wind blew, the chit flew, and then they came two by two. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Current Tank Info: 375g Tanganyikan Tank & 470g mixed reef |
12/15/2017, 05:42 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Miller Place, NY
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250 gallon mixed reef, 2 Reefbreeder's Photon V 2, Deepwater BLDC 12, DAS EX-3 Skimmer, MTC mini cal, 2-3/4" Sea Swirls, Aquacontroller & 6 Tunze pumps. |
12/15/2017, 07:38 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Pomona
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For media, I used TLF Reborn and ReMag
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12/16/2017, 08:05 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2006
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12/18/2017, 04:06 AM | #6 |
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 6,256
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I use Korallin reactors.
I use medium grade ARM. Any natural media is nearly identical, IMO. Man-made stuff does not have as many trace elements in it and is harder to melt, IME. Set the bubbles at 10 and the drips at 40 - per minute. This is a good ratio for this reactor. Work from here. It will take a day, or so, for the PH to stabilize in the chamber. I do not use a PH monitor on mine. I tune it by hand and let it run. You will have to choose to use it, or not - they are just different methods and neither is better than the other, IMO. Those links are good, so read and understand them. You will need the process to "click" in your mind, and then you are home free - I can just look at the bubble and effluent rate and know that it is in range. One thing that you do need to know is that you can still use a Salifert test kit to test alk out of the effluent - every time that you go back in for a new syringe of the reagent, just keep adding them together. Reactor alk of around 20 is good for me... but it will be different for everybody and depend on the PH in the reactor and effluent flow rate. The only real important thing is that the tank stays stable. You will get all of this. It is not hard. I am really stupid and I figured it out. Focus on actually learning rather than just repeating directions and you will be fine. |
12/18/2017, 07:06 AM | #7 |
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+1 on running it by test results and not by controller. You’ll find that there are two factors at play. Amount of effluent, and strength of effluent. And you will be varying both of those when tuning it at first until you are stable. Until you get a masterflex I would honestly recommend a quality ac pump over an aqualifter. Just get one of those nicer needle/gate valves with the JG fitting.
You’ll be adjusting both the speed of the effluent drips, and the bubble rate until you find exactly the ratio that works for your tank. I prefer to start with as slow of an effluent as possible. And gradually increase the bubble count until alk holds still. And if you accidentally overshoot it by a hair, then increase the effluent a touch to balance it back out. I can only adjust my bubble count so much before over or under shooting it when it needs adjusting. So it’s helpful to be able to raise and lower the effluent a hair to better stabilize it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
12/18/2017, 03:01 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Center Valley PA
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Thanks a lot everyone!
I am going to hopefully get my Co2 bottle filled tomorrow and then hopefully get it setup and running. I will definitely read those articles tonight and hopefully get everything setup correctly with no major hiccups. I still need to do some more research on the cheapest but best way to raise the PH before it goes back into the tank so my PH doesnt lower by too much.
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-Cody SPS Dominant 180 gallon. Link to my tank: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2618245 |
12/19/2017, 02:44 AM | #9 |
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 6,256
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Don't sweat the PH. If you home is already full of CO2 and you have chronically low PH, this will lower it just a bit. If you do not, then you won't even notice.
If your reactor is not tuned well, then a bit of extra CO2 might get into your tank. ...most of the time, this melts the media, so you will surely notice. |
12/19/2017, 09:48 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Hollywood, CA
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Hi Cody, you're getting great advice! Take your time and its easy, JDA nailed it. I had the MTC pro cal and it served my system well many 40lb bags melted. Your thread is inspiring. Dosing 3 part the last year. I'd like the Geo 618 a good reg but any quality reactor should work. I ran at 10-12 DKH no problems and great growth. All ATO was Kalk and good surface agitation, good ventilation not a problem with depressed PH, if anything the higher DKH stabilized PH. One bonus is no SG swing over time.
Joe
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130 gallon LeeMar rimless 54"x28"x21" and 70 gallon sump cycling, rock and sand. |
12/20/2017, 10:13 PM | #11 |
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I had that reactor before on I think a 90 gallon. If i remember correctly id did not have a co2 recirculate and for this reason I when with slightly smaller media. it will certainly get the job done for you!
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