My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges - Page 29

Wally.B · 10/11/2017, 09:01 PM

PH (All 3 TANKS) !! SPS-Tank matches FRAG-Tank (Even Better) !!

Wally.B · 10/11/2017, 10:43 PM

OOPS (CO2 Scrubber) Backwards

Yes, Canister/Reactor connectors are flipped. It would be better to draw air from bottom, since even exposure to Air this stuff will absorb CO2.

It doesn't really matter (for test), but I read instructions and the Color Change (Media Expiration) is suppose to start from Bottom up.
Totally expired when the whole Canister Changes Dark Violet.

INSTRUTIONS SAY: [1 Litre Jar of this CDX will last 6 weeks, on Typical Household Recyled AIR, and Skimmer Drawing Air@100 LPH]

I could reverse the Canister Connection, but let's see how long this stuff lasts.
I'll know beyond COLOR change, since PH will start Dropping.

Big E · 10/12/2017, 03:52 AM

Hi Wally,

Some of those frags looked pale/bleached. Any that are light in color I would put in the shade, for example under a frag rack or ledge. Let them completely brown out before they're moved back into any direct light.

sensei · 10/12/2017, 05:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big E

Hi Wally,

Some of those frags looked pale/bleached. Any that are light in color I would put in the shade, for example under a frag rack or ledge. Let them completely brown out before they're moved back into any direct light.

professor,
can you explain why let them brown out??
I ask becuase I just moved one of my frags in frag tank down becuase of the same reason, but I just moved it 3 " down not such a dramatic change as you are sugesting here. maybe I need to shade it more?

About 5 month ago I had another frag that looked bleached and I moved it 6 " down, it has now a green color but still color is not vivid nor beautifull. I wonder if thing would have been different if I had done what you are suggesting and letting it brown out and then move up slowly.

thanks for your answer.

Big E · 10/12/2017, 06:15 AM

Hi Jorge,

You have a deep tank, so moving 6" down can produce the same effect. If it darkens in color that works too, but some corals are so bleached it's best to just try to brown them out.

You can brown them out in 2-3 weeks........if left in the direct light it may take months to darken up or you can lose the frag altogether.

When they are pale like that you're just looking for the zoo to re-populate. It easier for that to happen in the shade. Once it's in that brown state you can move it back into some light so it can start growing. All the new growth will be colorful.

sensei · 10/12/2017, 06:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big E

Hi Jorge,

You have a deep tank, so moving 6" down can produce the same effect. If it darkens in color that works too, but some corals are so bleached it's best to just try to brown them out.

You can brown them out in 2-3 weeks........if left in the direct light it may take months to darken up or you can lose the frag altogether.

When they are pale like that you're just looking for the zoo to re-populate. It easier for that to happen in the shade. Once it's in that brown state you can move it back into some light so it can start growing. All the new growth will be colorful.

excellent explanation!!
I just shaded a lot the frag that I moved 3" down. I will see what happens.
Thanks a lot professor!

Wally.B · 10/12/2017, 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big E

Hi Wally,

Some of those frags looked pale/bleached. Any that are light in color I would put in the shade, for example under a frag rack or ledge. Let them completely brown out before they're moved back into any direct light.

Ed,

I highly value your opinion. I know you know exactly what you are talking about (I DON'T know much about SPS).

So I need to understand things VERY Clearly.

TWO THINGS:

1) I thought the plan was to leave things alone for a while
---------> I just got this tank stable with ALK=7.0 in last day or so
---------> New Frags have survived without any damage longer than ever before.
---------> All Frags are showing good PE (Which I never had before)
---------> SOME TIPS are showing Vibrant NEW TIP Colors (Not all, some).

2) OLD Pictures (SPECIFIC Frag Move)
---------> Most of the pictures are before some acclimatization, so let me retake photos of each (Learning Photography, in BRIGHT MH lighting)
---------> Once I have new PHoto's you can recommend (FRAG #xxx) to be moved

So let me understand your recommendation.

-> Some Frags are overexposed, and need some lighting rest. CORRECT?
-> Perhaps I need to raise lights? (But that would affect all FRAGS) and (Bad change in General)
-----> Same bad ideal (To reduce PHoto Periods Currently=[ 6HR MH, 8 HRS MH+T5 ] ).
-> Perhaps I need to increase nutrients?

-> OR SOMETHING SIMPLE (My FRAG RACK is MAGENETIC and can be lowered 4 inches EASILY)

Let me re-take photo's and you can give me some specific advice (FRAG # wise)

** NOTE** These are all $7 test frags, but frags are frags **

Wally.B · 10/12/2017, 07:58 AM

ED,

I sounds like your suggestion is to brown out (Some Specific) coral FRags, and then let new growth come back colorful with a Stronger Frag.

What is the purpose/effect of the browning? (Light reduction to build up strength/Health? OPPOSITE of PALE/Bleach/Fading)

I kind of did this for my RED PLANET a while ago to save it (just instinct). I put it at back. Lower. It got deep colors, and Thick PE (I'll show the photo). It appears to be recovering (never went brown, but colored up DARKER, Richer)

I kind of get the sense that my PARS at 350-360 MID tank might be too much in genral (All Frag Varieties).
Maybe decrease PARS in general (lights 2" higher), and move FRAG needing higher lighting UP.

Wally.B · 10/12/2017, 08:24 AM

ED,

(ONE OTHER IDEA - FRAG TANK is OPTION)

Instead of messing with DT.

I just got the FRAG tank Water Matched perfectly (if not better) than DT.

-> I dump DT 5% (twice a week water changes) into Frag Tank (Equates to 15-20% WC in FT) (So it will pretty well have same Water Parameters, plus I will be feeding a tiny bit of Reef Roids Once a week, into FT)
-> FRAG tank has 1x 150W MH bulb (on half of FRAG tank, so half of FT is dimmer). Fixture can be raised or lowered at will.
-> Thus I could place select FRAG into Frag Tank for healing/browning (THEN MOVE BACK TO DT).

BAD IDEA? GOOD IDEA?

Wally.B · 10/12/2017, 10:35 AM

FRAG PHOTOS (CURRENT) TAKE 1 (Health CHECK not COLOR CHECK)

The MACRO ring is getting me better FOCUDED close ups.

THESE photo's are under Royal Blue/White LEDS (Will retake for Color when MH lights come on).

I'm no expert, but to me this is Pretty Healthy.

PALE in some cases, but not what I would call "Bleaching".

Certainly Drastic Improvement from All FRAG Health just a few weeks ago.

Wally.B · 10/12/2017, 11:09 AM

Just did this.

FRAG #03 (is a plug with 3 pieces on it).

I cut off one piece and moved it onto new Plug into Frag Tank. (Raised lights in FRAG tank to be 100+PARS less than DT SPOT)

Let's see how it does in FT vs DT.

I can do the same for FRAG #08

Wally.B · 10/12/2017, 12:00 PM

ORIGINAL PURCHASE (Reference Photo)

To put things into perceptive.

Here are the Frags and Condition with Photo's from Store WEB PHOTOs at time of purchase.
They were put into my Tank Sept 28th, EXACTLY two Weeks ago.

Matching (Coral NUMBERING) on Each Photo.

I'll take a better photo from TOP (When MH lights come on)

That will be a good comparison, if they Improved, SAME, or Worsened.

sensei · 10/12/2017, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wally.B

FRAG PHOTOS (CURRENT) TAKE 1 (Health CHECK not COLOR CHECK)

I'm no expert, but to me this is Pretty Healthy.

PALE in some cases, but not what I would call "Bleaching".

Certainly Drastic Improvement from All FRAG Health just a few weeks ago.

according to what I have learned a pale frag may be the beginning of a slow bleaching that can occur over a couple of months. I have a frag that was pale and I kept it in same place and it became more pale and it has even grown but color does not look good. Some other had super nice PE and grew and that kept me thinking that I should not move it, until they died....
In your photos I can not really see which are the pale ones, but if you have 1 or 2 pale ones there should be no harm in moving them down and experiment with those keeping them in same tank.

I would shade them as Ed suggested or lower them a lot so that there is a significant difference in the direct light they are receiving.

I just shaded a lot one of my frags after reading what Ed said.

any way you like tinkering, this is a way to tinker with a frag while keeping all other variables under your control.

I wish I have done this with 7$ frags

Wally.B · 10/12/2017, 12:54 PM

I'm not going to post a bunch of Boring Photo's.

I did take photo's of each FRAG from TOP (MH Light ON).

No change from Original Purchase. Maybe a touch better.

Just two Examples:

I'm leaving things alone FOR NOW, till I get some ENCRUSTMENT, and GROWTH.

I have a couple of FRAG pieces in Frag-Tank.....

Wally.B · 10/12/2017, 01:28 PM

Maybe time to make things more Exciting and Colorful.

I should go pick up my Strawberry Shortcake.

But first, I install new MH bulbs. They should be here tomorrow.
By Monday, my DT should be very close to ALK=7.5

Big E · 10/12/2017, 02:24 PM

The frags on post 710 look fine.

There were some earlier pictures that they looked almost white, those are the corals that would need to be lowered/shaded.

One already had algae trying to grow on it.

Basically, any new coral you receive that is pale or bleached needs to receive less light till it recovers.

Most of the time when you shade or lower them a lot they lose color, but will darken back up. If they keep color that's fine
but quite often they turn brown.

Wally.B · 10/12/2017, 02:29 PM

Ed, ok. Thanks. Understand your advice.
Good to know for future, if needed.
I think all is in good order.

No harm splitting that one frag into FRAG TANK to test if ready for future use.

That alage growing frag was noticed right away and is also in frag tank, doing ok.

Big E · 10/12/2017, 02:42 PM

I didn't know how many frags were pale........the milli on post 699 looked pale as well.

Wally.B · 10/12/2017, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big E

I didn't know how many frags were pale........the milli on post 699 looked pale as well.

ED,

To make thing easier for you and everyone.

I put a Frag numbers (eg #01) on each Photo (Bottom Right Corner) , so if you have a comment on pale, shading etc, raise it, etc ..... just mention FRAG #___.

The Millie on Post 699 is FRAG #01.
It's the one I retook a picture of today.

Still think it could use some shading?

reefmutt · 10/12/2017, 04:58 PM

I think moving things around is a mistake..
Don’t open that door.
Most of the corals look very good.
No harm in raising your lights, though.
The near dead one has been moved and moved again.
Agreed that millie doesn’t look fantastic and some older shots ed is referring to aren’t great but your recent shots show some generally happy corals.
I’d keep to minimal adjustments, Wally
I think that that millie shot is slightly overexposed and contributing to the paleness look.
Just trying to keep your hands out of the tank, Wally..

Wally.B · 10/12/2017, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reefmutt

I think moving things around is a mistake..
Don’t open that door.
Most of the corals look very good.
No harm in raising your lights, though.
The near dead one has been moved and moved again.
Agreed that millie doesn’t look fantastic and some older shots ed is referring to aren’t great but your recent shots show some generally happy corals.
I’d keep to minimal adjustments, Wally
I think that that millie shot is slightly overexposed and contributing to the paleness look.
Just trying to keep your hands out of the tank, Wally..

Just to be clear, the near dead one (with Algae) was only moved once. Into Frag tank. (doing better, no algae)

And the Overexposed Millie (I see bleaching from Bottom at back facing lights),
I won't move out of DT. It's looks pretty bad at back. (Never noticed till just now)
It's right dead center underneath the MH bulb, so I'll move it across the rack to the far right-OR-left, Away from MH bulb.

I don't think I need to raise lights since they are at Good PARS (300-350 Mid Tank), and DT Frag Rack is Below Mid Level
When new MH Bulbs arrive, I'll raise the Fixture a bit (After comparing PARS with Quantum Meter)

reefmutt · 10/12/2017, 06:31 PM

I forget, are you just past the one week mark for the new bunch of frags?
I would hope to start seeing some encrusting by next weekend.. not tomoww..

Wally.B · 10/12/2017, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reefmutt

I forget, are you just past the one week mark for the new bunch of frags?
I would hope to start seeing some encrusting by next weekend.. not tomoww..

I wait patiently.

Two Frags haven't gone well.
But when I check original ($7 bring home photos), those two came with problems from the start.

The rest show no problems. Not touched, and WON'T BE TOUCHED.

And NO WAY, am I bringing in anymore, till we have some progress (encrustment).

Wally.B · 10/14/2017, 10:38 AM

Quick UPDATE (All Good in DT)

-> Things look good for All FRAGS in DT
-> ALK creping close to 7.1
-> Algae Scrubber Working Well
-> Have Quantum Meter (New Bulbs arrive Monday)
-> That Millie of moved out of DT Bright Light has Darkend up a bit.

--->The Algae Cover FRAG that I moved into Frag Tank (BLEACHED) over two days.
Was it doomed or is FRAG tank not yet ready.

---> The other Split FRAG I moved into FT is doing fine (TOP right Photo Below).

I put in some Cheap but Healthy FRAGS into FRAG TANK (To test properly)

Wally.B · 10/14/2017, 06:41 PM

FRAG TANK (CDX - Soda Lime) PH Stabilized [ After 4 Days ]

Took 4 days running the CO2 Scrubber on Frag Tank.

PH has stabilized at 8.1, which is Ideal. (No Risky Additives/Chemicals, just Oxygen thru Skimmer)

I also learned how that Color Indicator works on the CDX media.
It may turn purple/Violet right away, but that doesn't indicate FULLY Expired.
If you stop running CO2 Scrubber it goes back to white (as the inner pellet recovers to the Surface)

So when Expired, it will stay Violet (I'll find out).

10/11/2017, 10:43 PM	#702
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	OOPS (CO2 Scrubber) Backwards Yes, Canister/Reactor connectors are flipped. It would be better to draw air from bottom, since even exposure to Air this stuff will absorb CO2. It doesn't really matter (for test), but I read instructions and the Color Change (Media Expiration) is suppose to start from Bottom up. Totally expired when the whole Canister Changes Dark Violet. INSTRUTIONS SAY: [1 Litre Jar of this CDX will last 6 weeks, on Typical Household Recyled AIR, and Skimmer Drawing Air@100 LPH] I could reverse the Canister Connection, but let's see how long this stuff lasts. I'll know beyond COLOR change, since PH will start Dropping. Last edited by Wally.B; 10/11/2017 at 10:59 PM.

10/12/2017, 03:52 AM	#703
Big E Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: South Euclid, OH Posts: 4,281	Hi Wally, Some of those frags looked pale/bleached. Any that are light in color I would put in the shade, for example under a frag rack or ledge. Let them completely brown out before they're moved back into any direct light. __________________ 80g Rimless Acropora System reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2197142&page=31 Ed

10/12/2017, 06:15 AM	#705
Big E Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: South Euclid, OH Posts: 4,281	Hi Jorge, You have a deep tank, so moving 6" down can produce the same effect. If it darkens in color that works too, but some corals are so bleached it's best to just try to brown them out. You can brown them out in 2-3 weeks........if left in the direct light it may take months to darken up or you can lose the frag altogether. When they are pale like that you're just looking for the zoo to re-populate. It easier for that to happen in the shade. Once it's in that brown state you can move it back into some light so it can start growing. All the new growth will be colorful. __________________ 80g Rimless Acropora System reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2197142&page=31 Ed

10/12/2017, 07:58 AM	#708
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	ED, I sounds like your suggestion is to brown out (Some Specific) coral FRags, and then let new growth come back colorful with a Stronger Frag. What is the purpose/effect of the browning? (Light reduction to build up strength/Health? OPPOSITE of PALE/Bleach/Fading) I kind of did this for my RED PLANET a while ago to save it (just instinct). I put it at back. Lower. It got deep colors, and Thick PE (I'll show the photo). It appears to be recovering (never went brown, but colored up DARKER, Richer) I kind of get the sense that my PARS at 350-360 MID tank might be too much in genral (All Frag Varieties). Maybe decrease PARS in general (lights 2" higher), and move FRAG needing higher lighting UP. Last edited by Wally.B; 10/12/2017 at 08:03 AM.

10/12/2017, 08:24 AM	#709
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	ED, (ONE OTHER IDEA - FRAG TANK is OPTION) Instead of messing with DT. I just got the FRAG tank Water Matched perfectly (if not better) than DT. -> I dump DT 5% (twice a week water changes) into Frag Tank (Equates to 15-20% WC in FT) (So it will pretty well have same Water Parameters, plus I will be feeding a tiny bit of Reef Roids Once a week, into FT) -> FRAG tank has 1x 150W MH bulb (on half of FRAG tank, so half of FT is dimmer). Fixture can be raised or lowered at will. -> Thus I could place select FRAG into Frag Tank for healing/browning (THEN MOVE BACK TO DT). BAD IDEA? GOOD IDEA? Last edited by Wally.B; 10/12/2017 at 08:30 AM.

10/11/2017, 09:01 PM	#701
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	PH (All 3 TANKS) !! SPS-Tank matches FRAG-Tank (Even Better) !!

10/12/2017, 10:35 AM	#710
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	FRAG PHOTOS (CURRENT) TAKE 1 (Health CHECK not COLOR CHECK) The MACRO ring is getting me better FOCUDED close ups. THESE photo's are under Royal Blue/White LEDS (Will retake for Color when MH lights come on). I'm no expert, but to me this is Pretty Healthy. PALE in some cases, but not what I would call "Bleaching". Certainly Drastic Improvement from All FRAG Health just a few weeks ago. Last edited by Wally.B; 10/12/2017 at 11:21 AM.

10/12/2017, 11:09 AM	#711
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	Just did this. FRAG #03 (is a plug with 3 pieces on it). I cut off one piece and moved it onto new Plug into Frag Tank. (Raised lights in FRAG tank to be 100+PARS less than DT SPOT) Let's see how it does in FT vs DT. I can do the same for FRAG #08

10/12/2017, 12:00 PM	#712
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	ORIGINAL PURCHASE (Reference Photo) To put things into perceptive. Here are the Frags and Condition with Photo's from Store WEB PHOTOs at time of purchase. They were put into my Tank Sept 28th, EXACTLY two Weeks ago. Matching (Coral NUMBERING) on Each Photo. I'll take a better photo from TOP (When MH lights come on) That will be a good comparison, if they Improved, SAME, or Worsened.

10/12/2017, 12:54 PM	#714
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	I'm not going to post a bunch of Boring Photo's. I did take photo's of each FRAG from TOP (MH Light ON). No change from Original Purchase. Maybe a touch better. Just two Examples: I'm leaving things alone FOR NOW, till I get some ENCRUSTMENT, and GROWTH. I have a couple of FRAG pieces in Frag-Tank.....

10/12/2017, 01:28 PM	#715
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	Maybe time to make things more Exciting and Colorful. I should go pick up my Strawberry Shortcake. But first, I install new MH bulbs. They should be here tomorrow. By Monday, my DT should be very close to ALK=7.5

10/12/2017, 02:24 PM	#716
Big E Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: South Euclid, OH Posts: 4,281	The frags on post 710 look fine. There were some earlier pictures that they looked almost white, those are the corals that would need to be lowered/shaded. One already had algae trying to grow on it. Basically, any new coral you receive that is pale or bleached needs to receive less light till it recovers. Most of the time when you shade or lower them a lot they lose color, but will darken back up. If they keep color that's fine but quite often they turn brown. __________________ 80g Rimless Acropora System reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2197142&page=31 Ed

10/12/2017, 02:29 PM	#717
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	Ed, ok. Thanks. Understand your advice. Good to know for future, if needed. I think all is in good order. No harm splitting that one frag into FRAG TANK to test if ready for future use. That alage growing frag was noticed right away and is also in frag tank, doing ok. Last edited by Wally.B; 10/12/2017 at 02:35 PM.

10/12/2017, 02:42 PM	#718
Big E Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: South Euclid, OH Posts: 4,281	I didn't know how many frags were pale........the milli on post 699 looked pale as well. __________________ 80g Rimless Acropora System reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2197142&page=31 Ed

10/12/2017, 04:58 PM	#720
reefmutt Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Mtl. Canada Posts: 7,824	I think moving things around is a mistake.. Don’t open that door. Most of the corals look very good. No harm in raising your lights, though. The near dead one has been moved and moved again. Agreed that millie doesn’t look fantastic and some older shots ed is referring to aren’t great but your recent shots show some generally happy corals. I’d keep to minimal adjustments, Wally I think that that millie shot is slightly overexposed and contributing to the paleness look. Just trying to keep your hands out of the tank, Wally.. __________________ Matt. Current Tank Info: 53x32.5x26 190g dt 60g of sumps 3 tank-100 gal frag system 6xAI prime 8xt5. 4x maxspect gyre. Skimz Dual internal sicce pump skimmer Deltec PF601s ca rx+Kalk stirrer

10/12/2017, 06:31 PM	#722
reefmutt Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Mtl. Canada Posts: 7,824	I forget, are you just past the one week mark for the new bunch of frags? I would hope to start seeing some encrusting by next weekend.. not tomoww.. __________________ Matt. Current Tank Info: 53x32.5x26 190g dt 60g of sumps 3 tank-100 gal frag system 6xAI prime 8xt5. 4x maxspect gyre. Skimz Dual internal sicce pump skimmer Deltec PF601s ca rx+Kalk stirrer

10/14/2017, 10:38 AM	#724
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	Quick UPDATE (All Good in DT) -> Things look good for All FRAGS in DT -> ALK creping close to 7.1 -> Algae Scrubber Working Well -> Have Quantum Meter (New Bulbs arrive Monday) -> That Millie of moved out of DT Bright Light has Darkend up a bit. --->The Algae Cover FRAG that I moved into Frag Tank (BLEACHED) over two days. Was it doomed or is FRAG tank not yet ready. ---> The other Split FRAG I moved into FT is doing fine (TOP right Photo Below). I put in some Cheap but Healthy FRAGS into FRAG TANK (To test properly) Last edited by Wally.B; 10/14/2017 at 10:43 AM.

10/14/2017, 06:41 PM	#725
Wally.B Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Toronto GTA,Canada Posts: 1,763	FRAG TANK (CDX - Soda Lime) PH Stabilized [ After 4 Days ] Took 4 days running the CO2 Scrubber on Frag Tank. PH has stabilized at 8.1, which is Ideal. (No Risky Additives/Chemicals, just Oxygen thru Skimmer) I also learned how that Color Indicator works on the CDX media. It may turn purple/Violet right away, but that doesn't indicate FULLY Expired. If you stop running CO2 Scrubber it goes back to white (as the inner pellet recovers to the Surface) So when Expired, it will stay Violet (I'll find out).