My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges

[reefmutt]

Wally! You’ve censored your frags!
There’s a classic reef porn shot for you. All the sexy areas have been blacked out.
How sad..

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

Wally! You’ve censored your frags!
There’s a classic reef porn shot for you. All the sexy areas have been blacked out.
How sad..

I already feel the Stress melting away from daily micro watching.

It's not so sexy watching Frags STN slowly.
Hoping they get pretty over next while.

Censor Film is thin so I can still clean glass.
Can't wait to un-censor the tank area in a couple of weeks.

May have a Centerfold Photo or two [ I hope ]

[Wally.B]

Actually, I keep looking at the Tank to see New Frags and only See the Tank Backing Strip.

Few OLD Original Corals are visible. See the Forest Fire underneath, and old Frags on TOP.
See the Tubinaria on the left.

The STRIP SHOW will commence Friday Nov 5th.
When I will Peel the Strip Off, and EXPOSE everything.

Stay tuned.

Looking for Appropriate music!! Maybe some bubble tunes.

[reefmutt]

Oooooooh! Burlesque reef porn!! Doesn’t get any better!!
Can’t wait!

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

Oooooooh! Burlesque reef porn!! Doesn’t get any better!!
Can’t wait!

Me too!! Can't wait.

But as I mentioned on Rakie's thread, I am going to break my (No Coral Feeding) promise.
We'll not a broken promise, but starting earlier than planned.

Here is why.



That small Virgin piece of Screen in my ATS has taken off.
So scrubber is back to normal.

** TIME TO replace the Coraline Covered Screens that are not doing that as well, with all new SCREENs which I will Seed the same way **


Since my N & P are in the good Lower Range N=2.5 P=0.12, this means I have a little wiggle room for more nutrients.

I AM STARTING (as of last night), feeding the SPS corals at night with some Polyp Booster and Reef Roids.

Also I am changing my frozen feeding way. I used to just crush the frozen food and throw it into Tank with JUICE.
Instead I'm rinsing the Frozen in Brine Shrimp net.
This will reduce wastes going into system, but still feed the Fish with meaty stuff (to produce good Poo Nutrients)

My goal is to give the Corals more nutrients, and more nutrients at night.

STILL NO OTHER ADDITIVES (like B-Balance, etc).
-> One Exception (Acro Power, 1/2 dose, twice a week)

I run no risk of starting an Algae Bloom since Scrubber is working. (And the Turbo Snail is Starving in the DT)
And if I do, I can back off.

THIS WHOLE (Take 3, rebuild) was always about HIGH NUTRIENT IMPORT/EXPORT, and Time to test my SYSTEM Design.

[reefmutt]

Acro power aspartic acid, that’s it.
Feed your fish extra nori and you’ll get it naturally.
With your nutrients where they are, it is my personal opinion that adding acropower is completely useless.
I am a fan of reef roids.. polyp booster.. never tried it much but don’t really see the need..
Start slow Wally

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

Acro power aspartic acid, that’s it.
Feed your fish extra nori and you’ll get it naturally.
With your nutrients where they are, it is my personal opinion that adding acropower is completely useless.
I am a fan of reef roids.. polyp booster.. never tried it much but don’t really see the need..
Start slow Wally

OK. Will be careful.

When I say Reef Roids (I'm using 1/16 of a teaspoon, and I put 1/3 in Frag Tank, the rest 2/3 in DT).

Poly Booster is suppose to have the Aminos and other foods in there. I use 10 drops before doing Reef Roids. 1/4 the recommended dose, and not daily.

I'm using what I have, since I have 1/2 small bottle Acro Power which is an Amino (Wrong?). Recommended dosage is 10ml twice a week. I'm doing 2.5 ml.

What do you suggest I get some of the Poly Labs Colors? Or other real amino products like Aquaforest Brand. Too early for such a tiny Frag load?

[Wally.B]

ATS - Phase 2 - (Replacement Screen)

I'm replacing the main Center Screen.

The outside Basket Screen remains as is (Coraline Covered). It's actually idea for Algae not to grow on outside housing.



The reason for the PORT Holes, and there are also cut slits that you can't see, is as screen builds up Algae, water continues to flow across the screen, directed by flow channels.

The previous test screen will remain till the new one kicks in.

[reefmutt]

Originally Posted by Wally.B

OK. Will be careful.

When I say Reef Roids (I'm using 1/16 of a teaspoon, and I put 1/3 in Frag Tank, the rest 2/3 in DT).

Poly Booster is suppose to have the Aminos and other foods in there. I use 10 drops before doing Reef Roids. 1/4 the recommended dose, and not daily.

I'm using what I have, since I have 1/2 small bottle Acro Power which is an Amino (Wrong?). Recommended dosage is 10ml twice a week. I'm doing 2.5 ml.

What do you suggest I get some of the Poly Labs Colors? Or other real amino products like Aquaforest Brand. Too early for such a tiny Frag load?

Yes, acro power contains aspartic acid which is an amino acid..
Supplements are really in the realm of user preference. And everybody has a different preference so tough to give advice.
I will say that I am not convinced aminos are ever needed at all, ever. But when nutrients are ultra low, maybe they can have some benefits. You are nowhere near ultra low nutrient right now..

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

Yes, acro power contains aspartic acid which is an amino acid..
Supplements are really in the realm of user preference. And everybody has a different preference so tough to give advice.
I will say that I am not convinced aminos are ever needed at all, ever. But when nutrients are ultra low, maybe they can have some benefits. You are nowhere near ultra low nutrient right now..

Too early for amino's.
Maybe even too early for any Reef Roids.

I tested last night, and wanted to confirm today.

My Nitrates 2.5-5ppm are the same but for some reason my Phosphates have jump from 0.12/0.14 last time I tested(Oct 17th week ago) to 0.25.

I can't see 1 feeding of Polyp booster/Reef Roids doing this, but will stop just in case.

The only change to tank is I reduced water change from the Aggressive 5% twice a week, to 2.5% twice a week.
Also I have been feeding fish a bit more Pellets vs Flake/Frozen since trying to train these guys to eat them like Kitchen Tank.

Going back to 5% WC.

I wondered why that Algae Scrubber Screen took off (this week). Higher P would explain it.

[sensei]

Wally,
this jump in PO4 was in sps tank or frag tank?

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by sensei

Wally,
this jump in PO4 was in sps tank or frag tank?

SPS tank.

But I should test Frag tank.

[Wally.B]

What is going on.

Frag Tank P=0.6 (but Frag tank is Filthy, and barely maintained. Never did Fresh Salt Water change, only using OLD SPS tank water).

[reefmutt]

I think it’s a good idea to go back to 5%weekly.
May actually replenish some elements and minerals to keep ats happier..
That may help with p..
Not to mention making corals happier.

[reefmutt]

That big ol’ cowrie is in the frag tank, isn’t he? Munching away on nori..

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

That big ol’ cowrie is in the frag tank, isn’t he? Munching away on nori..

Yes, like crazy. He ate everything off Glass, so I started feeding him sheets again. Every other day (1"x2" sheet).

Why is P rising, and N staying put in DT?
P rose like crazy in Frag tank, since it was lower than before. Haven't check N in Frag Tank. Frag tank is 1/4 Water Volume so things are concentrated.

I could see P rising in SPS tank (if pellets have P in them) the fish don't like pellet and my training them is wasting some. I'm hoping hermits clean up the missed pellets.

But Water changes appear to be a Essential at this point till things stabilize/balance.

And MAYBE even the Odd Good NEW Water change in Frag Tank.
Actually with Cowrie eating Nori, might be just good idea to no longer re-use DT water for FT water changes. That was because I didn't have fish.

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

I think it’s a good idea to go back to 5%weekly.
May actually replenish some elements and minerals to keep ats happier..
That may help with p..
Not to mention making corals happier.

It was 5% TWICE A WEEK = 10% Weekly.

I lowered to 5% weekly (2.5% twice a week)

[Wally.B]

Matt,

I know water changes (maybe 2.5% THREE times a week might be better for the short period to tackle the spike in P ).

It's easy to calculate P drop with water changes. Same as I did for ALK increase.
However N will also drop.

I understand drastic P drops can be bad. I did that last time adding GFO which I will never do again.

HOW quickly should I drop P? Work over next 5 days to bring down to old 0.12?

Here are where things stand.

[Wally.B]

Frag TANK ( COWRIE <-SWAP-> FRAGS ) Nori L-Side Finished

So the Cowrie Polished off all the Nori on Left side of Frag Tank.

Move him over to Right Side to work over there.

Of course Frag have to be move onto other side for their Safety.



Now that I understand how P is more concentrated in Frag tank, I'm going to do things differently.

For starters, this week will be daily 2.5-5% Water Changes in DT (P=0.25) and will bring that down to original (P= approx. 0.12).

Will re-use water into Frag Tank to slowly bring down (P=0.6) to (P=0.25).

THEN afterwards, do a the Odd Fresh Salt Water changes in Frag Tank.

Cowrie will continue to Nurish Corals and keep both sides clean Alternating.

The left side is Sparkly clean. That Yellow/look is a reflection of the CopePod Tank next to Frag Tank.

35 Gallon Frag tank is 3.5 Gal Water change for 10%. (Small stuff)

[Wally.B]

PHOSPHATE SPS TANK (GOOD) *** FALSE READING *** [ ATS Screen Seeding Contamination ]



I DID SWITCH over to Hanna Phophate ULR test since running out of Packet for ppb tester.

I had a sneaking suspicion that my Phosphates didn't jump that bad.

I read before that one shouldn't do Phosphate readings after feeding, etc.

I think when I seeded the ATS screen, I didn't rinse it enough from the Smeared Macro Algae.
That suspended fine Macro Alage Particulate in the Water Column and caused a false reading on the Hanna Phosphate Tester.

However the FRAG tanks 0.6 reading was correct.
After doing Water change in SPS Tank, I used that water for Frag Tank.
And Phosphates dropped a bit.



I learn something from this.
How to better maintain the Frag tank, and a reason why that Purple Acro Browned (High P).

Will be easy to fix the P with a few spaced out water changes.

[reefmutt]

Even though you found out that you had a false reading in the display tank, you asked a very important question above: ‘how do I quickly drop P?’
Well, I think my answer is never, no matter what. Just accept the current value and begin to take steps to control its rise and then steps to lower it as naturally and/or gradually as possible.
Just like your past alk issue.. no need to have an overreaction and do crazy things. Just begin steps to reverse the trend.
Of course it is better to try to reduce p by increasing sinks instead of sources (Assuming sources are food inputs) once you’ve eliminated possible sources like bad ro water, or cheap foods etc.
maybe your skimmer can be tweaked.. I forget what the display has for nutrient reduction. Is there a fuge there as well?
Even if you resort to gfo or carbon, you should always begin at way less than recommended levels and work up slowly..
Having said all that, n of 2-5 and p of .1 ish is not a huge concern. You could work on p a little but I’d try small tweaks to the system before resorting to LC or gfo or even carbon..

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

Even though you found out that you had a false reading in the display tank, you asked a very important question above: ‘how do I quickly drop P?’
Well, I think my answer is never, no matter what. Just accept the current value and begin to take steps to control its rise and then steps to lower it as naturally and/or gradually as possible.
Just like your past alk issue.. no need to have an overreaction and do crazy things. Just begin steps to reverse the trend.
Of course it is better to try to reduce p by increasing sinks instead of sources (Assuming sources are food inputs) once you’ve eliminated possible sources like bad ro water, or cheap foods etc.
maybe your skimmer can be tweaked.. I forget what the display has for nutrient reduction. Is there a fuge there as well?
Even if you resort to gfo or carbon, you should always begin at way less than recommended levels and work up slowly..
Having said all that, n of 2-5 and p of .1 ish is not a huge concern. You could work on p a little but I’d try small tweaks to the system before resorting to LC or gfo or even carbon..

Thanks Matt, (What is LC??)

My wording "HOW quickly should I drop P?" was not what I meant to say.
I meant "HOW Slowly", but I do understand your point.

I need a stable/balanced system, not constant Yo-Yo adjustments (That fall apart when I get busy)

I think I have everything in place.

-> IMPORT (Good Fish load, Frequent Feeding)

-> EXPORT (Good Skimmer, ATS, Easy-Water changes)

----> I think WATER CHANGES are the best thing I have.

---------> ATS comes 2nd since it's auto regulating (Adjusts SLOWLY to changes in Nutrients)
--------------> I will be in good shape one my new Screen matures.

---------------> Skimmer is needed now (but perhaps someday it can be shut down, or run less frequently as ATS kicks in))


--> No additives (Stopped Aminos).

But I am thinking (just thinking (reading about) one Additive). IRON
I been reading that weekly IRON top up can assist ATS Macro Growth, and if used properly, beneficial to Corals.
(((( BUt again, my Frequent Water changes, should be good enough, and let's see what new screen runs like ))))

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

.....
Is there a fuge there as well?
Even if you resort to gfo or carbon, you should always begin at way less than recommended levels and work up slowly..

Having said all that, n of 2-5 and p of .1 ish is not a huge concern. You could work on p a little but I’d try small tweaks to the system before resorting to LC or gfo or even carbon..

I do have that 5 Gallon Fuge built into Sump. (Water changer compartment)
It's not what I would call an Super Active Fuge.
-> No lighting except from room Light, and MH lights leaking from SPS Tank Fixture near by.
-> Just a 2-3" sandbed with dead SPS pieces as Bacteria Growth Media and acts a buffer zone. (Bed has critter glore, from Serpent Starfish, Copepod, and Bristle worm, etc)
-> No macro (since ATS is Macro).
-----> Plus in case you forgot, I have the MARINEPURE Ceramic BIO wall in Sump

As far as Carbon. I've removed any I had (permanently). But my plan is some Carbon baggie polishing maybe once a month (for 12-24 hours).

GFO. No need at this point. (Some day, when P gets stable and lower than 0.1)

[sensei]

Wally,

have you ever dosed iron?
I was reading the same thing.
I have never dosed iron, but I read an article from Randy Holmes and he recommended to dose iron for algae filters. The thing is that he also mentioned that it can also encourage other kinds of algae and I do not want algae in dt to be encouraged.

[sensei]

Wally,
do you still have the pod farm connected to any of your tanks?
I am thinking of doing one, but not sure how to do it?