Quarantine method for new tank

HarlequinTusk · 09/13/2019, 09:02 AM

Pretty much every article or video discusses using media (usually a sponge) from the DT to introduce adequate nitrifying bacteria. While this totally makes sense, what if you are trying to quarantine for a brand new tank? Do you have to use the same tank cycling method on the QT as you would for a DT? Or should you do large water changes every few days? Any advice would be appreciated.

nereefpat · 09/13/2019, 09:20 AM

It kind of depends what type of quarantining you plan on doing. Most folks probably don't have a cycled qt, but rely on water changes and Prime to keep ammonia low enough.

Are you just keeping new fish separate for a while? Copper? Tank transfer method?

HarlequinTusk · 09/13/2019, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nereefpat

It kind of depends what type of quarantining you plan on doing. Most folks probably don't have a cycled qt, but rely on water changes and Prime to keep ammonia low enough.

Are you just keeping new fish separate for a while? Copper? Tank transfer method?

Still researching the pros & cons of each method. I have a 210g DT with a dedicated fish room for equipment. I have plenty of room for quarantine tank(s). It's going to be a mixed reef, so I'll need a separate QT for corals as well.

Michael Hoaster · 09/13/2019, 10:13 AM

Having a disinfected QT is more important than a cycled one. You have to start with a clean slate. I clean my QTs between sessions with a bleach solution to ensure nothing icky can infect the fish. I match the QT's salinity to the incoming bagged fish's water, so I can float and release, saving the fish a ton of stress. If the fish shows symptoms, I begin appropriate meds asap. If its ICH, I start lowering salinity to hypo salinity, rather than using copper. Then I use ammonia test strips to monitor water and do water changes when needed. If its not ICH, but something else, I'll do hypo AFTER the treatment.

In a one month-ish QT session, you may not see ammonia levels rise before its over. In the past, I kept my QTs up and running, and likely infected the incoming fish from the start!

Once your display tank is up and running, and cycled, you can scoop a spoonful of sand from it and add it to your QT. I also throw a pruned piece of macro algae in there to help suck up nutrients and make the QT more homey.

Good luck with your build!

HarlequinTusk · 09/13/2019, 09:37 PM

Approximately how many water changes do you end up doing? For an uncycled QT, i would think you'd have to do 50% water changes every few days. I hope I'm mistaken and can do far fewer.

Michael Hoaster · 09/16/2019, 08:31 AM

Far fewer. I did two 25% (fresh) water changes to lower salinity to hypo levels, after the initial med treatment round. I check ammonia weekly. I'm at eighteen days, still no ammonia spike. I fed the QTs a little fish food before the fish arrived to start the cycle.

alton · 09/17/2019, 09:28 AM

I use Fritz Turbo 900 to control ammonia in my QT

HumbleFish · 09/18/2019, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alton

I use Fritz Turbo 900 to control ammonia in my QT

+1 This product will supply enough nitrifying bacteria to cycle a QT. Just dose daily for a week before any fish + meds go in.

Dmorty217 · 09/19/2019, 05:55 AM

Here is what I use and have used for years. I cycle all my QT's and cycled my 625g with it.
www.tlc-products.com If you want to give it a try frag20 gets you 20% off

09/13/2019, 09:02 AM	#1
HarlequinTusk Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Niagara Falls, NY Posts: 117	Quarantine method for new tank Pretty much every article or video discusses using media (usually a sponge) from the DT to introduce adequate nitrifying bacteria. While this totally makes sense, what if you are trying to quarantine for a brand new tank? Do you have to use the same tank cycling method on the QT as you would for a DT? Or should you do large water changes every few days? Any advice would be appreciated.

09/13/2019, 09:20 AM	#2
nereefpat Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Central Nebraska Posts: 3,190	It kind of depends what type of quarantining you plan on doing. Most folks probably don't have a cycled qt, but rely on water changes and Prime to keep ammonia low enough. Are you just keeping new fish separate for a while? Copper? Tank transfer method? __________________ Pat Current Tank Info: 125 in-wall , 40b sump. 6 bulb T5. ASM G2 skimmer. LPS and leathers

09/13/2019, 10:13 AM	#4
Michael Hoaster Registered Seaweedist Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 5,807	Having a disinfected QT is more important than a cycled one. You have to start with a clean slate. I clean my QTs between sessions with a bleach solution to ensure nothing icky can infect the fish. I match the QT's salinity to the incoming bagged fish's water, so I can float and release, saving the fish a ton of stress. If the fish shows symptoms, I begin appropriate meds asap. If its ICH, I start lowering salinity to hypo salinity, rather than using copper. Then I use ammonia test strips to monitor water and do water changes when needed. If its not ICH, but something else, I'll do hypo AFTER the treatment. In a one month-ish QT session, you may not see ammonia levels rise before its over. In the past, I kept my QTs up and running, and likely infected the incoming fish from the start! Once your display tank is up and running, and cycled, you can scoop a spoonful of sand from it and add it to your QT. I also throw a pruned piece of macro algae in there to help suck up nutrients and make the QT more homey. Good luck with your build! __________________ As many naturalists and environmentalists have suggested, we should set aside our arrogance, our desire to conquer and control everything, and walk hand in hand with Mother Nature. -Walter Adey Current Tank Info: 180g Seagrass Sandbar Lagoon, START DATE November 28, 2018

09/16/2019, 08:31 AM	#6
Michael Hoaster Registered Seaweedist Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 5,807	Far fewer. I did two 25% (fresh) water changes to lower salinity to hypo levels, after the initial med treatment round. I check ammonia weekly. I'm at eighteen days, still no ammonia spike. I fed the QTs a little fish food before the fish arrived to start the cycle. __________________ As many naturalists and environmentalists have suggested, we should set aside our arrogance, our desire to conquer and control everything, and walk hand in hand with Mother Nature. -Walter Adey Current Tank Info: 180g Seagrass Sandbar Lagoon, START DATE November 28, 2018

09/19/2019, 05:55 AM	#9
Dmorty217 Saltwater Addict Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Vandalia OHIO Posts: 11,624	Here is what I use and have used for years. I cycle all my QT's and cycled my 625g with it. www.tlc-products.com If you want to give it a try frag20 gets you 20% off __________________ Fish are not disposable commodities, but a worthwhile investment that can be maintained and enjoyed for many years, providing one is willing to take the time to understand their requirements and needs Current Tank Info: 625g, 220g sump, RD3 230w, Vectra L1 on a closed loop, 3 MP60s, MP40. Several QTs

09/13/2019, 09:37 PM	#5
HarlequinTusk Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Niagara Falls, NY Posts: 117	Approximately how many water changes do you end up doing? For an uncycled QT, i would think you'd have to do 50% water changes every few days. I hope I'm mistaken and can do far fewer.

09/17/2019, 09:28 AM	#7
alton Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Zuehl, Texas Posts: 4,460	I use Fritz Turbo 900 to control ammonia in my QT