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View Poll Results: Stand Refurb or New | |||
Refurb existing wood stand | 1 | 33.33% | |
Make a new steel stand skin to come later | 2 | 66.67% | |
Voters: 3. You may not vote on this poll |
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03/29/2018, 09:49 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Gilbert, Az
Posts: 232
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Slow 150 Eurobraced build
I am moving up from my 90 gallon acrylic to a 150 gallon eurobraced starfire tank that I picked up used. Much of what I have now will be moved as I usually bought items oversized for durability and flexibility. I am in no rush as the current mixed 90 is doing fine and I want to use the experience to correct mistakes I have made in the past. Here is the list of materials I have so far.
Last edited by azsoccerpop; 03/29/2018 at 01:20 PM. |
03/29/2018, 09:56 AM | #2 |
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Location: Gilbert, Az
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The Beginning
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03/29/2018, 11:19 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Bay Area California
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Looks nice and sounds like you are going with some solid equipment along with it.
Opposite over here the little lady wants no more black so went with stained wood with mine I think a darker grey color looks really nice IMO Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk |
04/01/2018, 12:09 AM | #4 |
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Location: Gilbert, Az
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Have not exactly been laboring but I did cut out that old ugly glass overflow.I also painted the back of the tank with plastic dip black. I should have bought 2 cans but let's see what it looks like in the morning
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04/01/2018, 12:13 AM | #5 |
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Put the geisemann shell on the tank just to get a feel for it. What a beautifully designed fixture. German engineering will be refit with custom stand off the tank 3 Ecotech Radions Gen3 and 110v dimmable ballasts. Stoked
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04/06/2018, 03:59 PM | #6 |
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Location: Gilbert, Az
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got the custom drill pattern template from exotic marine systems for the overflow. A perfect fit. I can't wait to see the overflow in the tank. I also decided to redo the silicon around the bottom of the tank. The seals are all good but the clear silicone around the inside bottom looked a little shabby. May as well get it right while I can
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04/06/2018, 11:19 PM | #7 | |
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Location: Bay Area California
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Quote:
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04/07/2018, 11:14 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
The exotic marine systems template for the overflow was made to fit the existing 3 1" bulkhead holes. No patching and redrilling needed. The 24" overflow will be made to fit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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04/07/2018, 11:21 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
Picked up a bnib icecap 660 Ballast for the Geismann infinity-Radion modification. I was considering staying with 80 watt T5s but since they are only supplementing I will be using 4x54w T5s instead. Any suggestions for bulbs? I plan on running them for 3-4 hours daily in the middle of an 8 hour radion light cycle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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04/11/2018, 07:23 AM | #10 |
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Location: Gilbert, Az
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Giesemann fixture cut to 60", icecap 660 ballast mounted and wired for testing. 4 t5 bulbs in and let there be light!
Next step is to modify the 3 MH mounting plates to hold the 3 Radion XR30Ws in the center. I am still not sure if I am going to disassemble and house the Radion Transformers in the fixture on the same plate as the lights or keep them remote and use the standard cord which may be too short for the light furthest from the access hole. I want all wires on one side to stay clean if I can Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by azsoccerpop; 04/11/2018 at 07:42 AM. |
04/13/2018, 09:35 PM | #11 |
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So the 1st radion is fitted and rewired. I have decided to use the empty space below the light with the transformer. This way I only need the bring power to the fixture. The other 2 modules are still in use but I will have all the brackets drilled and ready to go so it won't take long to finish and place the light once the 90 gallon is broken down.
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05/17/2018, 03:18 PM | #12 |
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So it has been a while and although I did not update the journal I have been busy. I installed and tested the slim designed overflow from Exotic Marine Systems and tested the bean animal setup into a 5 gallon bucket. Flawless design and test. Really great quality and flexibility from that company.
Next I purchased a bashsea signature series 48 sump in red. Steve Bashi is great to work with and again super high quality product. He even sent me the water level adjustment plate as an addon so that I can adjust my water levels in both the 2nd and 3rd chamber depending on what I want to use them for. I am considering chamber 1 for the skimmer and maybe 2 as a frag area. Anyone else have a small frag grow out area in their sump?? Would love feedback on it considering the high flow rate as a possible negative Next up is the stand refurbish or maybe replace. I have browsed every thread on every forum titled "show me your stands" and the designs all rock. The stand that came with the tank is becoming less desirable but the cost to build a new one may not work either. If I do replace I would build a steel stand and skin it. I have concerns on the structure of the current stand as I do not believe the 2x4s uprights are screwed into the headers but rather glued and nailed to the outer 3/4" skin that is all pocket screwed. And being painted all I can really do is repaint. I can do a redesign similar to the J&L fusion with little effort and it would be ok but I am not sure using this shell is going to last if I don't reinforce it. Maybe 2x2 angle iron supports under the headers? Would love any feedback on this as it is really the last big step. Here are some pics of the possible design and some of the current stand. J&JL Enterprise Fusion series below is the basis for the refurbish. I would replace the paneled doors with etched glass so I can see that nice sump. Current stand I could wedge a 2x2 angle iron under the header for added support and possibly eliminate the need for centered brace. Thanks for hangin with me. Can't wait to get the 2 ORA frags I bought at my LFS-The Coral Life in this setup. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by azsoccerpop; 05/17/2018 at 03:52 PM. |
06/04/2018, 07:12 AM | #13 |
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Location: Gilbert, Az
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Did a bit of work on the stand. Stripped off all the paint, cleaned up the inside and made some shaker doors for the front and side access. First time ever and I think the doors came out ok. Still not sure if I will stain with color or paint. The Mrs. likes light teal stain.
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06/04/2018, 11:41 AM | #14 |
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Location: Gilbert, Az
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Plumbing Question for anyone who cares to reply. The tank is back drilled for 2 3/4" loc lines. I am reusing a Varios 6 return pump which currently has a manifold for reactors so i am thinking of adding a second pump because the flow will not be enough. Should I plumb both pumps together and then to the manifold and split for the dual returns or, plumb each one separately and run the manifold off one pump then each to it's own return. I am planning for a 36 watt UV and 2 reactors and also an option for a Chiller should I need one in the future.
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06/11/2018, 08:21 AM | #15 |
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Location: Gilbert, Az
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The stand is just about finished. I added angle iron bracing along the front and back headers and 3 more columns to carry the weigh down. I sealed the inside with caulk and Killz white paint. I cut the skin flush with the top platform and then added back a 3/4" high poplar crown along with the wrap around molding top and bottom. Some more sanding and it's ready for the outside finish. Still undecided. I also fit the badass Bashsea sump inside just to see it. Next up is the apex mount on the side door and wire management. This week the tank will go back on and plumbing will start. I think I will run 2 pumps. one to each lock-line with one pump also supplying the manifold. Debating a matching Varios6 or upgrading to an 8 or possibly a Neptune COR 20 as the second pump.
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06/16/2018, 06:29 PM | #16 |
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Location: Gilbert, Az
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So this just happened.
Plumbing coming soon Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
06/25/2018, 11:05 PM | #17 |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 11
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Great job so far!
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07/05/2018, 08:53 PM | #18 |
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Location: Gilbert, Az
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So this week I plumbed in the drains and I am testing the system with a makeshift return. The overflow is silent and just a bit of noise in the sump but I am happy overall. The icecap ballast took a crap but I opened it up and the 2 varistors look to need replacing. I was able to buy compatible parts for a few dollars and hope that does the trick otherwise I will scrap the one ballast and go with 2 sylvania HO T5 ballasts instead.
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08/05/2018, 09:27 AM | #19 |
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Location: Gilbert, Az
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The tank build was put on hold to work on the floors on the house. It took me a week to put down close to 900 sq ft of tile. I tip my hat to all the tile setters as that is some hard work. I was able to finish on time and now we will do carpet then the 150 comes in the house and cycling starts.
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08/06/2018, 05:48 PM | #20 |
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 29
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that looks great love the red and black theme!
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08/14/2018, 08:20 PM | #21 |
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Gilbert, Az
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Finally made the decision on the stain. Went with pecan and I like it. Warm tone. I also had to replace the icecap ballast which burned out again. That was the second one so I decided to just use standard sylvania which I found on eBay for $12 ea. It has been storming out here fierce with the monsoons so I am glad the wood is sealed and protected figure I am about 3-6 weeks away from cycling the tank finally. I will be in Orlando next week on business and plan to go to WWC. Not sure if I will bring anything back with me but they have a new subscription club I may join. Here's some pics and I welcome any comments. Been a long road but I can see the exit sign now!
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08/20/2018, 02:24 PM | #22 |
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So I was in Orlando for business and had to stop in to see World Wide Corals Inc. it was a great setup and Luis was great to talk with. He showed us the large display tank they have in the back which was amazing. I did not have time to buy and transport but I will be back and make it part of my trip again.
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08/29/2018, 07:48 PM | #23 |
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More PROGRESS!!!!
Started the return plumbing but has to stop when I realized I bought the wrong Tee joints. So I took the dry fit as far as I could. I'm running 1-1/4" up to 2 Neptune fs-100 flow sensors then into the tank. I am wating for the Tees to build the manifold. Still hoping I can deliver around 800 gph to the tank otherwise the varios6 will have to be upgraded. Maybe a COR20. I like have Apex speed control. I turned to the light again and finally made the mount. It's a simple 3/4" conduit but I like the fact the light looks like it's floating. So far not too much spillover as I placed the light 1 inch closer to the front and slightly tilted it back. Also put the door hardware on with clean European style pulls. Getting closer and I hope to be cycling by end of September. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
08/29/2018, 08:05 PM | #24 |
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I also started with some concepts for aquascape. This is a bit of a struggle as I don't think I even have a right brain. I have been reading and looking and saving pictures and ... came up with this. I just don't know
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08/31/2018, 12:06 PM | #25 |
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 340
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I really like that scape design!
The only thing I would even slightly suggest is to turn the structure on the right hand side 90 degrees to the left if you can or maybe not even 90 degrees maybe just 45 degrees would look great, to create more of a canal and to move the bottom pieces away from the front of the tank. I'm not sure if that's even possible but I think it would look great if you could. other than that it looks awesome. Build is coming along nicely! |
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