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03/14/2011, 06:27 PM | #101 | |
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03/14/2011, 06:29 PM | #102 |
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Terahz are you using cat 4101 drivers?
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03/14/2011, 06:38 PM | #103 |
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Hi, I have 12 drivers but 2 channels can I use a 2N2222A TO-18 Style transistor instead ? I have got a bunch ! thanks Jeff
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03/14/2011, 06:47 PM | #104 | |
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Also, my drawings might be different but should work if legs assignment are followed. |
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03/14/2011, 06:52 PM | #105 |
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Great, Also what pwm pins do I use? will it matter? or will they be assigned
in the software? |
03/14/2011, 06:56 PM | #106 |
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03/14/2011, 07:01 PM | #107 |
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Аз съм българче! Current Tank Info: DIY 40 Breeder with LEDs |
03/14/2011, 07:07 PM | #108 |
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Did you figure out what we will case this squrrels nest in ?? thanks J
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03/14/2011, 07:32 PM | #109 | |
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http://www.radioshack.com/family/ind...goryId=2032276 I have mine on the same shoe box where all the drivers are.... its not really good looking, but maybe in the future, i will put it on these boxes. Last edited by katchupoy; 03/14/2011 at 07:45 PM. |
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03/14/2011, 11:00 PM | #110 |
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Here is another diagram complete with resistor and transistor on a breadboard.
Hope this makes sense... |
03/14/2011, 11:04 PM | #111 |
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Hmmm it would seem we would not need the dimming pots any more after we get a way to turn white or blue on or off and dim from the keypad.
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Regards, Tom Current tank: 45g acrylic cube, Sunpod 150w 14k bulb Current Fish: Hey I gots some fish.. |
03/14/2011, 11:24 PM | #112 | |
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1) It came from the original wiring diagram. 2) If arduino dies, we can simply short the negative (to make it 100%) and control the device from the "POT". Plan B? if arduino dies. 3) If for example I want to use only 50% or so intensity of lighting, instead of me re-programming my arduino, I simply turn this dial. Hope it makes sense. And another thing, my sketch (code) is so simple (i dont know any better), it does not have any control from the keypad yet. Just making it simple for now... Maybe in the future. |
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03/14/2011, 11:33 PM | #113 | |
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Got my RTC's in today along with my Hydra Reef Controller board ( I plan on building that project also ) this should be a fun few weeks ahead.
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Regards, Tom Current tank: 45g acrylic cube, Sunpod 150w 14k bulb Current Fish: Hey I gots some fish.. |
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03/14/2011, 11:49 PM | #114 | |
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03/15/2011, 12:15 AM | #115 | |
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So you should order a few DS18B20 1 Wire Digital Thermometer ( http://www.taydaelectronics.com/serv...ITAL-DS/Detail ) there only $1.60 and shipping was $.99 for 4 of these and 6 other items and you could use one in your heatsink to see what the leds are running at. here is a chunk of code that I found to use it Code:
// Get temp data from DS18B20 *************************************************************************************** if ( !ds.search(addr)) { ds.reset_search(); return; } ds.reset(); ds.select(addr); ds.write(0x44,1); // start conversion, with parasite power on at the end delay(750); // !!! keep this line for parasite power mode of DS18B20 present = ds.reset(); ds.select(addr); ds.write(0xBE); // Read Scratchpad for ( i = 0; i < 9; i++) { // we need 9 bytes data[i] = ds.read(); } LowByte = data[0]; HighByte = data[1]; TReading = (HighByte << 8) + LowByte; SignBit = TReading & 0x8000; // test most sig bit if (SignBit) // negative { TReading = (TReading ^ 0xffff) + 1; // 2's comp } Tc_100 = (6 * TReading) + TReading / 4; // Multiply by (100 * 0.0625) or 6.25 Tc_100 = (Tc_100 * 9/5) + 3200; // Convert to fahrenheit, comment this out to display in celcius added 100 for temp correction temp_Low = min(temp_Low, Tc_100); temp_High = max(temp_High, Tc_100); // Display current temperature line 0 ***************************************************************************** if(on_minute == 0) { lcd.setCursor(0,0); lcd.print("Wt:"); delay(keypad_delay); Whole = (Tc_100 / 100); // separate off the whole and fractional portions Fract = (Tc_100 % 100)/10; lcd.print(Whole, DEC); delay(keypad_delay); lcd.print("."); delay(keypad_delay); lcd.print(Fract, DEC); delay(keypad_delay); lcd.write(0xDF); delay(keypad_delay); } //Display Low Temp*************************************************************************************** if(on_minute == 0){ //used so if bad data is sent for the first reading, it is not saved lcd.setCursor(0,9); Whole = (temp_Low / 100); // separate off the whole and fractional portions Fract = (temp_Low % 100)/10; lcd.print(Whole, DEC); delay(keypad_delay); lcd.print("."); delay(keypad_delay); lcd.print(Fract, DEC); delay(keypad_delay); lcd.write(0xDF); delay(keypad_delay); lcd.setCursor(0,14); lcd.print("-"); delay(keypad_delay); } //Display High Temp*********************************************************************************** if(on_minute == 0){ //used so if bad data is sent for the first reading, it is not saved lcd.setCursor(0,15); Whole = (temp_High / 100); // separate off the whole and fractional portions Fract = (temp_High % 100)/10; lcd.print(Whole, DEC); delay(keypad_delay); lcd.print("."); delay(keypad_delay); lcd.print(Fract, DEC); delay(keypad_delay); lcd.write(0xDF); delay(keypad_delay); } Hookup is power, ground, and the digital signal wire pretty easy. EDIT!!!!!! forgot to mention you can encase these in silicone or some resin epoxy and use em for tank water temp also. thats why I got a few I will do 1 for led temp and 1 for tank temp EDIT EDIT!!!! he adds this up top in the code Code:
#include Code:
Digital Pin 44 = Temp Sensor Code:
OneWire ds(44);
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Regards, Tom Current tank: 45g acrylic cube, Sunpod 150w 14k bulb Current Fish: Hey I gots some fish.. Last edited by TheReefNinja; 03/15/2011 at 12:32 AM. Reason: added last paragraph |
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03/15/2011, 08:57 AM | #116 |
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TheReefNinja, the code tags have trouble including code with brackets so use the php tag instead.
I'm also using DS18B20 on my Hydra and they seem to work well. However few days ago, one of the dipped-in-silicone ones decided to malfunction and my PH started measuring almost 2pts down (showing 6pH !). So just keep that in mind
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03/15/2011, 09:00 AM | #117 | |
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Regards, Tom Current tank: 45g acrylic cube, Sunpod 150w 14k bulb Current Fish: Hey I gots some fish.. |
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03/15/2011, 09:09 AM | #118 |
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I believe the silicone must have cracked and caused some voltage leak in the tank, because once I took the probe outside the water the PH normalized.
I just realize I made it sound as though the chip actually cause the PH to dip.
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Аз съм българче! Current Tank Info: DIY 40 Breeder with LEDs |
03/15/2011, 10:03 AM | #119 | |
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03/15/2011, 10:21 AM | #120 | |
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Terahz, did you use fish tank silicone? I only wonder if the salt had any effect on it. I plan on doing a thin epoxy dip 3"in up the wires and then encase in silicone hope it holds up. One thing I can think of is the wires being moved around may have loosened up the silicone and allowed water to seep in. EDIT: what coding environment are you guys using for this I have Eclipse all set up for my android dev stuff but this is C isnt it?
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Regards, Tom Current tank: 45g acrylic cube, Sunpod 150w 14k bulb Current Fish: Hey I gots some fish.. Last edited by TheReefNinja; 03/15/2011 at 10:29 AM. |
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03/15/2011, 10:50 AM | #121 |
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Ok so I got the Arduino environment all set up. Does this tell you errors in your code like some other dev environments?
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03/15/2011, 10:51 AM | #122 |
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I used aquarium silicone, yes. It was a pretty big dab of silicone on the chip and exposed wires and it worked for a few months. I might try the epoxy+silicone and see how that holds up. I just got my 1wire bus boards so it is time to rewire the probes anyway.
I work with the Arduino IDE. It isn't as good as eclipse, but not that bad either.
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Аз съм българче! Current Tank Info: DIY 40 Breeder with LEDs |
03/15/2011, 05:42 PM | #123 |
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Woohoo I got my first piece of the project!...The DS1307 RTC...yep that's right I now have a clock....LOL
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03/15/2011, 06:06 PM | #124 | |
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Thats all... |
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03/15/2011, 06:33 PM | #125 |
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excellent info here Katchuppoy!
One question, can this controller make LEDs undergo softstart or softstop? |
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