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Unread 01/01/2014, 03:00 PM   #1
jharding08
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120g Acrylic Tank with C2C Overflow

I'm getting a 48"x24"x24" acrylic tank made where I am going to implement an internal coast to coast exactly like BeanAnimal (3 1" bulkheads, 1.5" plumbing, http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1310585). Looking to get at least 1200 GPH through the overflow

My question is, how big should the "L" be in the overflow and how close to the top off the tank where the water overflows? Is 6" from top and 4" deep good enough? Where should the bulkheads be drilled (center line) and how far from each other (horizontally)? How big of a hole for a 1" bulkhead?

Also, what size acrylic should be used for the overflow?

The tank will not have any trim, but will have a center brace.


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Unread 01/03/2014, 03:45 PM   #2
jharding08
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I've figured out most of the dimensions.

I will have a 4" deep, 5" tall "L" overflow attached to the back of the tank at 6" from the top, to leave a 1" gap for the water to flow over



For the bulkheads, I will have the center of the hole 4" from the top, leaving 2" from the center for the 1" down turned street elbows. I dont know the distance from the center of the street elbow to the tip of the other end, but it shouldnt be more than 2" right. That way there wont be much of a gap for snails and fish to get sucked up. I could cut grate holes in the elbow as well



Having all the bulkheads at 4" from the top gives me plenty of room in case of back flow to the emergency drain and it should never flow back over the wier to the main display tank



Do these dimensions look right?

When I put the bulkheads and elbows (not street, couldnt find in SU) into the holes in SketchUp, it shows the downturned elbows touching the bottom, does this look correct?




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Unread 01/03/2014, 04:36 PM   #3
mcgyvr
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I wouldn't have the elbows gap so small.. It will just trap more "medium" particles against it and get blocked .. IMO leave 1/2" from the bottom of the elbow to the floor of the overflow.

As for the 1" gap for the water to flow over.. that should be fine..Unless you want to run wavemakers..Then 1.5" You can easily get 1" waves or more..

And I would center the "full siphon" overflow and put emergency and open channel on each side.. Why.. Just to try to even out the flow on each side of the c2c.. My full channel is on the right side (easy to switch though) and the left side of the c2c "collects" a bit of crap.

And don't glue/secure the inner elbows at all.. Just slip without any glue.. Then you can remove them for maintenance,etc.. So plan for them not to be full seated.. You don't need to worry that they will leak.


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Unread 01/06/2014, 01:49 PM   #4
jharding08
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I supopose I can cut the end of the elbow to get that 1/2" spacing. If I did that, how would i prevent snails and things from getting in the pipe and clogging it up?

I dont run waves in my tank , although i do have two Tunze 6105s that are set to provide turbulent and surging water conditions.

My sump drain area is on the left of the sump, that is why I have the overflow holes on the left of the tank/overflow. That way the water can go straight into the sump.



I am wondering more if 4" of depth and 5" of height is enough for the C2C overflow. I made sure that the emergency drain is below the wier between the tank and the overflow, so it will catch the water before it flows back into the DT. Just wondering how much water should that overflow section hold. I might put a powerhead on the right side of the overflow to keep detritus from buidling up on that side.


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Unread 01/06/2014, 06:11 PM   #5
salmon alley
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Tagging along....this is exactly what I want to do for my next tank.
Jharding- who is making the tank for you?


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Unread 01/06/2014, 06:16 PM   #6
jharding08
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My girlfriend's dad works in an acrylics shop and used to own his own company. Just paying for the materials...


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