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Unread 09/15/2018, 03:16 PM   #1
AnthonyA9953
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How to convert sump to a pvc setup

So I currently have a sump with clear tubing and I’d like to change that to pvc. Also, I need to clean my return pump as it’s been 2 years so I’m gonna have to disconnect the tubing anyways. Can anyone let me know what the process is and how to keep water from coming out the overflow holes. By the way my tank is pre drilled with 2 holes under each over flow (2 overflows, 125 gallon tank).



Last edited by AnthonyA9953; 09/15/2018 at 03:17 PM. Reason: Misspelling in the title
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Unread 09/15/2018, 03:36 PM   #2
fijisrfr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyA9953 View Post
So I currently have a sump with clear tubing and I’d like to change that to pvc. Also, I need to clean my return pump as it’s been 2 years so I’m gonna have to disconnect the tubing anyways. Can anyone let me know what the process is and how to keep water from coming out the overflow holes. By the way my tank is pre drilled with 2 holes under each over flow (2 overflows, 125 gallon tank).


Siphon out water until water level is below the overflow, siphon out overflow compartments then plumb away!


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Unread 09/15/2018, 03:38 PM   #3
AnthonyA9953
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Wow that easy alright thanks man. What type of adhesive do I use to secure the pvc? Is it just normal cement or does it have to be a special one.


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Unread 09/15/2018, 03:39 PM   #4
AnthonyA9953
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Also will the pvc still get crapped up with algae like my current setup is?


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Unread 09/15/2018, 03:39 PM   #5
fijisrfr
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PVC primer then glue


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Unread 09/15/2018, 03:41 PM   #6
fijisrfr
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Also will the pvc still get crapped up with algae like my current setup is?


Yes, that’s why I always use vinyl tubing. If you hard plumb, making any changes will require cutting, gluing etc...
why do you want to change it up?


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Unread 09/15/2018, 03:49 PM   #7
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Also, if you don’t like looking ay dirty lines, just replace them with black tubing


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Unread 09/15/2018, 04:01 PM   #8
AnthonyA9953
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Oh ok wow so you think I should stay with the vinyl? In that case how do I clean my return pump since it’s currently glued to the tubing.


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Unread 09/15/2018, 05:52 PM   #9
WVfishguy
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[QUOTE=fijisrfr;25497074]Yes, that’s why I always use vinyl tubing. If you hard plumb, making any changes will require cutting, gluing etc...
why do you want to change it up?

I used PVC in the past, but never again. Why would I?

Vinyl is more reliable, easier to work with, etc. There's no downside to vinyl that I can think of. I've seen PVC vibrate under pressure and leak at joints. Vibration doesn't affect vinyl.

Plus, you really need to use a higher grade PVC than you will find at most hardware stores. I can't remember PVC grades, but I'm sure many folks on this forum know them by heart.

Regular PVC is designed to have a low rate of fluid going through it at intervals, like drains. Aquarium plumbing is just the opposite - large amounts of fluid with continuous, high flow.

If you don't like the algae build up, you can clean it easily, unlike PVC. The PVC also gets crud in it, you just can't see it. The algae build up in pipes is additional filtration - which is why I'd never clean one out unless flow is reduced substantially.

I can see where massive, commercial / public aquariums would use PVC, but for a home aquarium 300 gallons or less, I'd use vinyl.

I've never found it necessary to glue vinyl to tubing. All I did was heat the vinyl, force it over the intake of the pump, and use a plastic hose clamp. In my 90 gallon display (75 gal. sump) I'm using two 9.5 mag drives on each hose and they never get loose. To remove the hoses, simply reverse the process.


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Unread 09/15/2018, 05:54 PM   #10
fijisrfr
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[QUOTE=WVfishguy;25497115]
Quote:
Originally Posted by fijisrfr View Post
Yes, that’s why I always use vinyl tubing. If you hard plumb, making any changes will require cutting, gluing etc...

why do you want to change it up?



I used PVC in the past, but never again. Why would I?



Vinyl is more reliable, easier to work with, etc. There's no downside to vinyl that I can think of. I've seen PVC vibrate under pressure and leak at joints. Vibration doesn't affect vinyl.



Plus, you really need to use a higher grade PVC than you will find at most hardware stores. I can't remember PVC grades, but I'm sure many folks on this forum know them by heart.



Regular PVC is designed to have a low rate of fluid going through it at intervals, like drains. Aquarium plumbing is just the opposite - large amounts of fluid with continuous, high flow.



If you don't like the algae build up, you can clean it easily, unlike PVC. The PVC also gets crud in it, you just can't see it. The algae build up in pipes is additional filtration - which is why I'd never clean one out unless flow is reduced substantially.



I can see where massive, commercial / public aquariums would use PVC, but for a home aquarium 300 gallons or less, I'd use vinyl.



I've never found it necessary to glue vinyl to tubing. All I did was heat the vinyl, force it over the intake of the pump, and use a plastic hose clamp. In my 90 gallon display (75 gal. sump) I'm using two 9.5 mag drives on each hose and they never get loose. To remove the hoses, simply reverse the process.


Nicely stated!


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Unread 09/15/2018, 06:22 PM   #11
AnthonyA9953
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Ok so just a hose clamp to secure everything?


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Unread 09/15/2018, 09:15 PM   #12
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There is some goofy/incorrect information in this thread...specifically that regular pvc is insufficient...Thats just wrong..
Also pvc being opaque will not get algae growth in it as algae needs light...It can get other growth after years but not algae..

Proper use of unions will allow easy maintenance and modification as/if needed..

You never need fo heat vinyl or glue it either..
Blah.blah..


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Unread 09/15/2018, 10:13 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVfishguy View Post

Plus, you really need to use a higher grade PVC than you will find at most hardware stores. I can't remember PVC grades, but I'm sure many folks on this forum know them by heart.

Regular PVC is designed to have a low rate of fluid going through it at intervals, like drains. Aquarium plumbing is just the opposite - large amounts of fluid with continuous, high flow.
This is poor information and very much untrue. Your "regular" PVC from any home improvement store is more than sufficient for our tanks. I have never seen a store not carry at least schedule 40.I have plumbed every tank I have had for the past 15 years with PVC with no issues. My last tank had a Reeflo Hammerhead rated at 6000 GPH plumbed exclusively with PVC and had no issues.


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Unread 09/15/2018, 10:34 PM   #14
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Another plus for pvc is that you can make a manifold and run your reactors off of your return pump if you wanted to. Can’t do that effectively with vinyl. Mine is pvc for the return plumbing but ends about 6” above my return pump. I use a 6” section of vinyl from the pump to the pvc to deaden vibration, not because I feel it would damage anything, just deaden the noise.


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Unread 09/16/2018, 08:41 AM   #15
AnthonyA9953
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Thanks for all the info guys. However I really don’t want to have to do all the plumbing as I would rather just use the vinyl tubes. So, if I were to purchase black tubing and secure everything using just hose clamps I would be ok?


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Unread 09/16/2018, 09:09 AM   #16
lafayettereefer
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The bias misinformation in thread should be taken very lightly. The use of enough unions which Is strongly recommend by anyone using pvc will make maintenance a breeze. I hard plumb all of my setups now with schedule 40 pvc from any lowes or HD and wouldn't do it any other way. It doesnt kink like vinyl, doesnt grow algae, has the ability to make a manifold.


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Unread 09/16/2018, 10:29 AM   #17
moondoggy4
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Lee's black pond tubing is very good tubing so is Eheim tubing. I have some that is over 30 years old.


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Unread 09/16/2018, 12:07 PM   #18
AnthonyA9953
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Thanks


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Unread 09/16/2018, 12:14 PM   #19
AnthonyA9953
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Also, what size barb fitting is needed for a vectra m1?


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Unread 09/16/2018, 12:29 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyA9953 View Post
Also, what size barb fitting is needed for a vectra m1?
The vectra m1 accepts 1" pvc on the inlet and 3/4" pvc on the outlet.
If you want to use tubing you will need a short piece of hard pvc to put onto the pumps fittings then something like a slip to threaded coupling then to the threaded to barb fitting..
As vinyl is also more of a restriction vs hard pipe you are best up sizing 1 size also to avoid excessive friction losses which will reduce overall flow


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Last edited by mcgyvr; 09/16/2018 at 12:38 PM.
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Unread 09/16/2018, 12:48 PM   #21
AnthonyA9953
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Instead of a pvc to tubing could I just do a check valve connected to the pump then have a barb fitting from there?


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Unread 09/16/2018, 01:09 PM   #22
scottwhitson
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Check valves really have no place on your return system. They are prone to failure in saltwater systems and shouldn't be relied on to prevent a flood. Now if you already have on and are just using it to convert to vinyl then it would work. They also restrict flow so they need to be upsized from what your tubing size is.


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Unread 09/16/2018, 04:40 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by AnthonyA9953 View Post
Instead of a pvc to tubing could I just do a check valve connected to the pump then have a barb fitting from there?
As stated check valves are really not the best idea not to mention that one is unlikely to have the male end to fit to the pump without a stub of pipe between it.

Anti siphon holes are better than check valves...A couple on your return line just below the water line work great..


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Unread 09/19/2018, 11:58 AM   #24
WVfishguy
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As I stated, I used hard PVC many times. But I repeat, Why?

I learned not to use standard PVC from professionals who warned me off it. And I've seen hard connections leak from vibration. I stand by my statement that standard PVC is NOT made for continuous flow.

I admit I do not know why "vinyl is also more of a restriction vs hard pipe." Not saying it's not true, I just never heard this.

There's a huge difference between setting up personal tanks at your home and plumbing customer's aquaria at a business.

One of the biggest downsides to hard PVC is how much flow you lose with bends, elbows, connectors etc.

There is no reason NOT to use high grade PVC. The damage from 125 gallons of salt water is a lot more expensive than the best quality PVC.


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Unread 09/19/2018, 01:32 PM   #25
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Quote:
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I learned not to use standard PVC from professionals who warned me off it. And I've seen hard connections leak from vibration. I stand by my statement that standard PVC is NOT made for continuous flow.
What is standard PVC to you? That might be why they warned you off of it.... Do they consider Schedule 40 to be standard, like most people in this thread do?

Or were they thinking the older and now discontinued schedule 20?

Any well glued and properly made PVC fitting won't vibrate out. It literally can not vibrate out. Its bonded, it functionally is one piece.

And if it isn't, then they didn't do it glue it properly, and that is the cause of their issue.


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