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12/05/2017, 06:52 AM | #1 |
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cementing joints
I will be plumbing my tank shortly and just wondered what the do's and don'ts and how do you keep the cement work neatly?
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12/05/2017, 06:55 AM | #2 |
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First off, skip the purple primer! Get the clear stuff, that will make it so any drips don't show up as purple runs down the pipe. That is a huge turnoff for me when viewing someones plumbing.
Dry fit everything and mark orientation with a sharpie. Then reassemble gluing as you go. One thing to remember, unions are your friend, the more the merrier.
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80G SCA Build: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2560256 Originally posted by der_wille_zur_macht: "He's just taking his lunch to work" |
12/05/2017, 07:21 AM | #3 |
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Working with pvc is one of those things that's easy to do once you know how, but a little hard to explain all the nuances. You just need to practice. Watch some YouTube videos, it'll be easier to learn by seeing instead of reading.
One thing to keep in mind - cutting and dry fitting is handy but it's easy to insert pipe further into a fitting when it's wet than dry, so don't go for ultimate precision when dry fitting - if anything, make your pipe cuts 1/8th inch long.
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12/05/2017, 08:00 AM | #4 |
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In the US all our PVC cement has a big "q-tip" like applicator..
You simply pull that out of the container and wipe around the inside of the fitting (2 times around) then quickly push the pipe in fully and give it a slight twist (no more than 1/8 turn) if even possible as its usually set in place that quick.. Done... Its really simple..
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12/05/2017, 12:45 PM | #5 | |
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12/05/2017, 01:33 PM | #6 | |
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12/05/2017, 01:38 PM | #7 |
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Reactor Manifold started
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12/05/2017, 06:32 PM | #8 |
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I always put the cement on the male part of the joint so that I don't push excess inside the pipe. I prefer medium duty clear, and wipe off the outside as soon as I push the two pieces together.
Although I agree that putting cement on both surfaces would be best (and when I have plumbed real water lines in/around my house, I do), for out purposes it is just not necessary. No primer for me, ever. Just a extra step that, once again, just is not needed in this case.
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12/06/2017, 02:45 AM | #9 |
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I have noticed a bit of excess of cement in the pipe, not a lot, I am assuming it's not a big problem?
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12/06/2017, 05:39 AM | #10 | |
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12/06/2017, 11:45 AM | #11 |
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I also recommend using Green PVC transition cement for PVC to ABS such as bulkhead connections if they are slip. You do not need to use primer with the Green Cement.
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12/08/2017, 12:52 PM | #12 | |
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I have literally never, in 30 years, had a solvent welded joint fail. Cracked more than my fair share of female fittings due to over taping though.
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12/08/2017, 01:08 PM | #13 |
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No need to use primer. The primer is used by inspectors to verify the joints have been cemented. Primer actually soften the pipe a little. It's just a light weight cement dyed purple so the inspectors can see it. I have read studies that joints using primer are weaker than joints with out it. I usually put cement on both pieces being joined. Although once I found I assembled a joint with out any. It didn't leak for about a year when it got really hot
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