DIY Stands Template and Calculator

[Meshmez]

Originally Posted by BigJohnny

Quick question,

I prefer rockets design in that the 8 supports are positioned so that the front of the stand is 3" more open, but wouldn't putting the supports like this be more structurally sound? Id prefer to do it rockets way (to have more space below), but I have seen a lot of people do it this way instead and it looks like overlapping them like this "connects" everything together more. Again, the downside is the screw strips have to face the other way and the mouth of the stand from the front and back is 3" smaller. Thoughts?

THANKS!

yes that would be more structurally sound. BUT, just make your short top pieces be on the ends of the long pieces and you can put the legs the other way

[Saltwatercoral2]

I'm building a stand for my dad's new dart frog aquarium. Ithe tank is 72" long x 24" front to back x 36" high. There may be 4" of water in the bottom and about 8 inches if substrate. What would you recommend to use for building this? I will be enclosing it with plywood. The stand will be the same dimension as the tank but be 40" tall.

Thanks in advanced

[BigJohnny]

Originally Posted by Meshmez

yes that would be more structurally sound. BUT, just make your short top pieces be on the ends of the long pieces and you can put the legs the other way

Interesting idea! However, I am pretty sure your supposed to have shorter bracketed by longer for added stability.......or I have no idea what I am talking about which is also a possibility.

[Kbel1969]

Big Johnny, either way you do it is fine, as long as you overlap with the legs its basically the same result. The only plus to having the sides shorter between the face boards is that your legs for the front and rear will be wider for a little more support, but you lose just a little width for your opening. It really comes down to your preference. I personally choose the latter for my stand build

[MaccaPopEye]

Sorry if this is already somewhere else in this massive thread but I couldn't find it when searching. I have a couple of issues / questions that I would really appreciate some help with.

My current stand is steel (came second hand with the tank) but was not painted properly and I have noticed a couple of small bits of rust. So i want to build a new stand asap.

Here is the rough sketch up of the stand frame I want to build (using 90mmx45mm pine):



I want to make the new stand longer than the tank so that i can also fit in the chiller and a sectioned off electrical compartment.

This has me a bit confused with where to put the supports for the left hand side of the tank. The DT footprint is 48x20 and the new sump footprint is 48x14. Because the new sump is the same length as the DT I wouldn't be able to use 2 planks perpendicular to each other on each left hand corner as in the recommended design.

Is 1 support either side here OK? Or if I did 2 or 3 supports side by side would that support the weight (bulky but I would be ok with it). If this is OK then could I also only use 1 support on each far left corner near the chiller or does it still need the right angle supports?

I also wanted to skin the stand with removable panels but it seems like a plywood skin secured to the stand might be required?

Cheers,

Macca

[Meshmez]

Originally Posted by MaccaPopEye

Sorry if this is already somewhere else in this massive thread but I couldn't find it when searching. I have a couple of issues / questions that I would really appreciate some help with.

My current stand is steel (came second hand with the tank) but was not painted properly and I have noticed a couple of small bits of rust. So i want to build a new stand asap.

Here is the rough sketch up of the stand frame I want to build (using 90mmx45mm pine):



I want to make the new stand longer than the tank so that i can also fit in the chiller and a sectioned off electrical compartment.

This has me a bit confused with where to put the supports for the left hand side of the tank. The DT footprint is 48x20 and the new sump footprint is 48x14. Because the new sump is the same length as the DT I wouldn't be able to use 2 planks perpendicular to each other on each left hand corner as in the recommended design.

Is 1 support either side here OK? Or if I did 2 or 3 supports side by side would that support the weight (bulky but I would be ok with it). If this is OK then could I also only use 1 support on each far left corner near the chiller or does it still need the right angle supports?

I also wanted to skin the stand with removable panels but it seems like a plywood skin secured to the stand might be required?

Cheers,

Macca

lets start with the easy stuff first. The single support on the chiller end should be fine, there should be very little weight supported there. it would still be good to have the support bridge the joint between the 2 frame boards though.

It is highly recommended you attach plywood. you may be able to get away with attaching it to the back and then one of the sides, leaving the front and the other side removable.

Now about the perpendicular boards on the left end of the tank. assuming the sump is exactly 14", you could build the stand to be 21" or 21.5" deep instead of 20", then position the perpendicular boards so that one edge is even with the outside of the stand. then put the parallel board (the ones already in your drawing) to the right of those. this closes off your front opening a bit (1.5"), but you should have just enough space for the sump to fit in between.

EDIT: looking at your drawing again, you should actually orient the boards on the right side this way too, so that you bridge the gap between the boards in the frame. this would close your front opening 3" total.

[kendrid]

I am doing an inwall build in an existing non-load bearing wall (6' 125 gallon) where I want the tank flush with the drywall. Can the existing wall studs be used with a 2x4 across the top of the studs and the stand pushed up against the wall. Here is an example I found online:


That seems possibly not safe since it is recommended to use a 2x8 for the long beams, but that is the recommendation because there are no vertical support studs in the middle. The wall has vertical studs for support.

The other option would be to cut down the studs 7.25" below the drywall hole and rest the top front of the stand on the studs and attach them. That would be a bit more difficult to cut without ripping out the drywall below the viewing hole.

Thoughts?

[Meshmez]

ok the part facing upward here is the back of my stand, would it make sense to attach the 2 pieces of plywood as shown in the second pic? or leave it open? the sides will have plywood, and the front will have one piece of plywood, but cut out for the openings.

[BrettDS]

Originally Posted by kendrid

I am doing an inwall build in an existing non-load bearing wall (6' 125 gallon) where I want the tank flush with the drywall.

When I did my in wall tank I simply built this stand without modification and removed the studs and toe plate entirely, then I attached the drywall to the stand. I considered adding a few 2x4's in the stand for additional places to attach the drywall, but didn't. It doesn't seem to be a problem. The drywall still seems solid enough.

There are some pictures in my build thread here:

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...9&share_type=t

[kendrid]

Originally Posted by BrettDS

When I did my in wall tank I simply built this stand without modification and removed the studs and toe plate entirely, then I attached the drywall to the stand. I considered adding a few 2x4's in the stand for additional places to attach the drywall, but didn't. It doesn't seem to be a problem. The drywall still seems solid enough.

There are some pictures in my build thread here:

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...9&share_type=t

That is a great idea, and in my case the side where the tank is sitting is unfinished basement so the studs are already visible. Did you use a reciprocating saw to cut the studs? What did you do to remove the drywall screws from the studs without hurting the drywall?

[BrettDS]

Originally Posted by kendrid

That is a great idea, and in my case the side where the tank is sitting is unfinished basement so the studs are already visible. Did you use a reciprocating saw to cut the studs? What did you do to remove the drywall screws from the studs without hurting the drywall?

Yes, I used a reciprocating saw to cut 95% of the way through the studs... Just had to go slow and be very careful not to accidentally go through the drywall. Then I used a hand saw for the last little bit. Once the studs were cut I just carefully pulled them out pulling the screws through the back of the drywall. I wound up with one or two screw holes on the finished side that needed to be patched, but not many. I also made some additional screw holes on the finished side when I screwed the drywall to the stand, so I just patched them all at the same time. Patching screw holes like that is quick and easy.

[kendrid]

Originally Posted by BrettDS

Yes, I used a reciprocating saw to cut 95% of the way through the studs... Just had to go slow and be very careful not to accidentally go through the drywall. Then I used a hand saw for the last little bit. Once the studs were cut I just carefully pulled them out pulling the screws through the back of the drywall. I wound up with one or two screw holes on the finished side that needed to be patched, but not many. I also made some additional screw holes on the finished side when I screwed the drywall to the stand, so I just patched them all at the same time. Patching screw holes like that is quick and easy.

Thank you for the detailed reply. I am leaning toward doing it this way now. This seems more straightforward than building the stand into the existing studs. Since I have easy access to the studs I can cut them out one day, build the stand another, get the tank setup and plumbed, then when ready cut the hole in the drywall, slide the tank into place, frame, done (if only it were that simple).

I am doing this project without my kids knowing. Two weeks from today they are leaving on a one week trip and when they get back I want the fish moved from their old home into the in-wall. Doing it the way you did I can do all of the steps except cutting the drywall before they leave. Two weeks from today I could cut the hole, move the tank, fill it and start moving rock. I could spend that week cleaning up the the wiring, finishing the unfinished side so it looks nice, etc.

[BrettDS]

Sounds like a plan, although cutting out the hole in the drywall might be a pain with the tank already in place... And once you plumb the tank it will probably be difficult to remove. In my case I set up the tank and stand and plumbed the tank elsewhere in the room, then I prepped the wall and cut the hole and then moved the plumbed tank and stand into position.

[kendrid]

Originally Posted by BrettDS

Sounds like a plan, although cutting out the hole in the drywall might be a pain with the tank already in place... And once you plumb the tank it will probably be difficult to remove. In my case I set up the tank and stand and plumbed the tank elsewhere in the room, then I prepped the wall and cut the hole and then moved the plumbed tank and stand into position.

That is exactly what I am going to do. I will test the tank in my workshop area then take it apart and move it after cutting the drywall.

Sent from my XT1064 using Tapatalk

[codytrandall]

Hey everyone, thanks so much for this thread, this is my first attempt at woodworking.

I followed the directions except there is a small gap from the red/yellow and the purple on a couple of the sides. I've attached a link to some pictures. Should I redrill?

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...p1ZkpQMm5FSW9R

[Hitmanx]

I think I F'ed up here on my design...

This is for a 48x30x12 shallow tank with bottom trim...

I designed and built my stand last year but haven't used it yet, then I found this design and I fear mine just won't work... I would appreciate opinions or suggestions please:

Please disregard the flat 2x4s on the ground... Didn't end up using those... The front 2x4 is doubled up to account for no center brace, but I haven't added vertical supports for that piece yet...

[rickztahone]

Originally Posted by Hitmanx

I think I F'ed up here on my design...

This is for a 48x30x12 shallow tank with bottom trim...

I designed and built my stand last year but haven't used it yet, then I found this design and I fear mine just won't work... I would appreciate opinions or suggestions please:

Please disregard the flat 2x4s on the ground... Didn't end up using those... The front 2x4 is doubled up to account for no center brace, but I haven't added vertical supports for that piece yet...

What do you feel is wrong with the design?

[Meshmez]

Originally Posted by Hitmanx

I think I F'ed up here on my design...

This is for a 48x30x12 shallow tank with bottom trim...

I designed and built my stand last year but haven't used it yet, then I found this design and I fear mine just won't work... I would appreciate opinions or suggestions please:

Please disregard the flat 2x4s on the ground... Didn't end up using those... The front 2x4 is doubled up to account for no center brace, but I haven't added vertical supports for that piece yet...

put the legs on top of the bottom frame (same as if you were to flip it over and lay it on the top frame.)

also i would change the orientation of the legs so the seam doesnt match up with frame. like this:

[jharding08]

I'm sorry if this is redundant in this thread and I missed the original post.

I am looking for plans for a stand to hold a 48"x48"x24" glass cube tank with a center overflow (11"x8"). Looking for the stand to be 32" tall.

Can I use 2x6s without a center brace? Would like 2 doors on three sides (tank will be against a wall. Also, behind one of the back doors, away from the sump, I was thinking of boxing it off and making an isolated electrical box for my Apex and all the power blocks.

I need to skin it and add molding so it looks nice, but that is secondary to strength and building it right. I was also thinking of making the doors recessed into the plywood for a seamless look. I also have young boys, so the less they can get into the better

Any ideas would be helpful. Thank you

[EagleI]

Originally Posted by jharding08

I am looking for plans for a stand to hold a 48"x48"x24" glass cube tank with a center overflow (11"x8"). Looking for the stand to be 32" tall.



Can I use 2x6s without a center brace? Would like 2 doors on three sides (tank will be against a wall. Also, behind one of the back doors, away from the sump, I was thinking of boxing it off and making an isolated electrical box for my Apex and all the power blocks.

Yes since your longest span is only 48" you can keep the center open on all sides if you use 2x6.

[jharding08]

Originally Posted by EagleI

Yes since your longest span is only 48" you can keep the center open on all sides if you use 2x6.

How would I do the cross braces for the top and bottom sections? Is something like this overkill for the top?



I need a base for my sump underneath too, so how much bracing would I need for the bottom box

[jharding08]

Originally Posted by jharding08

How would I do the cross braces for the top and bottom sections? Is something like this overkill for the top?



I need a base for my sump underneath too, so how much bracing would I need for the bottom box

Here is what I have right now:


Definitely needs more support. Should I double up the 2x6 on the top around the outer frame as well?

The tank is 48.5" to the outside of the black frame on the bottom. So it will be sitting on the outside of the 2x6s. Should I make the square 49x49 instead to have it sit in the middle? I am going to add some molding to cover the black frame later

[Meshmez]

jharding08, are you going to put plywood across the top? or have the tank frame rest on the 2x6? I normally oversize by 1" so that the tank sits 1/2" from the edge of the 2x6 on all sides.

[jharding08]

Originally Posted by Meshmez

jharding08, are you going to put plywood across the top? or have the tank frame rest on the 2x6? I normally oversize by 1" so that the tank sits 1/2" from the edge of the 2x6 on all sides.

I am thinking I am going to lay 3/4" plywood across the top, but still oversize by .5"-1" larger than the tank width so it wont be right at the end.

Even with plywood, wont I need cross braces on the top and bottom parts?

[EagleI]

Originally Posted by jharding08

I am thinking I am going to lay 3/4" plywood across the top, but still oversize by .5"-1" larger than the tank width so it wont be right at the end.



Even with plywood, wont I need cross braces on the top and bottom parts?

If it were me I'd do cross beams on both the top and bottom frame, plus 3/4 ply on top. It prevents skewing or twisting. Also, if you're not putting doors on all four sides you could add a center stud on the faces that won't be accessed but I don't know it to be necessary.