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Unread 06/21/2017, 06:41 PM   #1
October Sky
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What's the best method to get Loc-Line from a 1" return pipe into tank?

I know I'm going to run 3/4 inch loc-line, either split or single line as my return. I just cannot figure out the best method to get it into the tank?

If I use 3/4 Threaded adapter, what does it plug into in the wall? A bulkhead? Uniseal? Is there a threaded bulkhead that will directly take this?

Should I use a different part to get it to the outside of the tank? I'm just not certain of the diameters of all the (non)moving parts here, and don't feel like having to make multiple store runs.

Whenever I get it set up, I'll launch a build thread to explain so the next guy/gal doesn't have to ask the same thing.

Thanks in advance.


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Unread 06/21/2017, 08:13 PM   #2
bblumberg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by October Sky View Post
I know I'm going to run 3/4 inch loc-line, either split or single line as my return. I just cannot figure out the best method to get it into the tank?

If I use 3/4 Threaded adapter, what does it plug into in the wall? A bulkhead? Uniseal? Is there a threaded bulkhead that will directly take this?

Should I use a different part to get it to the outside of the tank? I'm just not certain of the diameters of all the (non)moving parts here, and don't feel like having to make multiple store runs.

Whenever I get it set up, I'll launch a build thread to explain so the next guy/gal doesn't have to ask the same thing.


Thanks in advance.
3/4" threaded bulkhead would be best if your tank is drilled. You would just screw your 3/4" threaded adapter into the bulkhead. If you need to go over the top, then you would end the fitting with a 3/4" NPT female adapter and screw the locline into that.


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Current Tank Info: 150G mixed reef (6x Blue Acro 20K Pro COB LEDs, 4x 80W T5 supplement), 150g fw discus (T5 lighting), 110G fw Angelfish (DIY LED lighting), 4 x 40 g frag tanks (DIY LED).
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Unread 06/21/2017, 08:52 PM   #3
Lsufan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bblumberg View Post
3/4" threaded bulkhead would be best if your tank is drilled. You would just screw your 3/4" threaded adapter into the bulkhead. If you need to go over the top, then you would end the fitting with a 3/4" NPT female adapter and screw the locline into that.
If it is possible I would do it like this with a 3/4" threaded bulkhead. That way the locline adapter screws straight into the bulkhead. To me any other way eighther doesn't look good because of the white pvc adapters u have to use or sticks out to far into the tank.

If your return is going over the back of the tank then I would special order the fittings u need in black or if u have a canopy u can place it up high in the tank to where all u can see is the locline


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Unread 06/22/2017, 08:51 AM   #4
October Sky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bblumberg View Post
3/4" threaded bulkhead would be best if your tank is drilled. You would just screw your 3/4" threaded adapter into the bulkhead.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lsufan View Post
If it is possible I would do it like this with a 3/4" threaded bulkhead. That way the locline adapter screws straight into the bulkhead.
Thank you both, I certainly plan on going through the tank, not over the back.

I guess my question is ultimately, is the thread count/pitch of 3/4 NPT adapter Loc-line uses the same as a 3/4 bulkhead?

And then I got to get down to the pump. Any suggestions to get from 3/4 to 1 inch as quick as possible?


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Unread 06/22/2017, 04:26 PM   #5
bblumberg
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Yes, the 3/4" NPT of the loc-line adapter is standard and will screw into a normal 3/4" threaded bulkhead that is also NPT (which is how they come, at least in the US).

What I did on my 2 tanks was to run a 1" line from the manifold (fed by the return pump) to a T (at almost the same level as the return bulkheads. From the T, I ran 1" flex PVC to the back of the 3/4" bulkheads and connected with a 1" to 3/4" reducing elbow. This way, you have 1" pipe throughout and only reduce it at the very end.


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Current Tank Info: 150G mixed reef (6x Blue Acro 20K Pro COB LEDs, 4x 80W T5 supplement), 150g fw discus (T5 lighting), 110G fw Angelfish (DIY LED lighting), 4 x 40 g frag tanks (DIY LED).
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Unread 06/22/2017, 04:40 PM   #6
Lsufan
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U don't say to much about your system but I usually upsize my pump outlet by atleast one size & if u have to reduce down for the bulkhead then do it as close as possible to the bulkhead. So if the outlet on the pump is 1" I would use 1.25"pipe & so on. If u don't plan on any manifold & u only have one return outlet then u should be ok by using 1" pipe & just reducing it at the bulkhead if u don't want to upsize to 1.25". If that is the case I would use all 1" & get a 1" to 3/4" bushing & slide that into the 1" 90 at the bulkhead. Then u just have to attach the 90 to the bulkhead with a short 3/4" pipe.

I would pay attention to what bblumberg posted about the 12" or so of flex pvc. He used it a little differently then I do but it does come in handy. I always make the first 12" or so of pipe from the return pump flexpvc. It uses the same fittings as regular pvc but it reduces the vibration from the pump which ultimately makes it quieter.


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Unread 06/22/2017, 07:39 PM   #7
bblumberg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lsufan View Post
U don't say to much about your system but I usually upsize my pump outlet by atleast one size & if u have to reduce down for the bulkhead then do it as close as possible to the bulkhead. So if the outlet on the pump is 1" I would use 1.25"pipe & so on. If u don't plan on any manifold & u only have one return outlet then u should be ok by using 1" pipe & just reducing it at the bulkhead if u don't want to upsize to 1.25". If that is the case I would use all 1" & get a 1" to 3/4" bushing & slide that into the 1" 90 at the bulkhead. Then u just have to attach the 90 to the bulkhead with a short 3/4" pipe.

I would pay attention to what bblumberg posted about the 12" or so of flex pvc. He used it a little differently then I do but it does come in handy. I always make the first 12" or so of pipe from the return pump flexpvc. It uses the same fittings as regular pvc but it reduces the vibration from the pump which ultimately makes it quieter.
Thanks. I put FlexPVC there to allow the pipe to sag a bit from the bulkheads to the T so that the T is slightly lower than the bulkheads and the pipe drains completely when the return is off. Your comments about the pump outlets are spot on. In my case, I didn't want to go with 1.25" plumbing for the return sto stuck with 1" throughout. I have a 12" section of silicone tubing from the outlet of my pump to the input of the manifold for vibration reduction.


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Current Tank Info: 150G mixed reef (6x Blue Acro 20K Pro COB LEDs, 4x 80W T5 supplement), 150g fw discus (T5 lighting), 110G fw Angelfish (DIY LED lighting), 4 x 40 g frag tanks (DIY LED).
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Unread 06/23/2017, 08:04 AM   #8
October Sky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lsufan View Post
U don't say to much about your system but I usually upsize my pump outlet by atleast one size & if u have to reduce down for the bulkhead then do it as close as possible to the bulkhead. So if the outlet on the pump is 1" I would use 1.25"pipe & so on. If u don't plan on any manifold & u only have one return outlet then u should be ok by using 1" pipe & just reducing it at the bulkhead if u don't want to upsize to 1.25". If that is the case I would use all 1" & get a 1" to 3/4" bushing & slide that into the 1" 90 at the bulkhead. Then u just have to attach the 90 to the bulkhead with a short 3/4" pipe.

I would pay attention to what bblumberg posted about the 12" or so of flex pvc. He used it a little differently then I do but it does come in handy. I always make the first 12" or so of pipe from the return pump flexpvc. It uses the same fittings as regular pvc but it reduces the vibration from the pump which ultimately makes it quieter.
I have a Reef Octopus Varios 2 DC pump, it has 1" fittings. I have a Modular Marine 1200 overflow box using 1" plumbing (setting up bean-animal style). I want to do only 1 return, as it's a 40 breeder and doesn't really need two. I plan on running some distance of flex pvc from the pump, to a union where it will be 1" pvc with a ball valve near the top of the return for maintenance purposes. From there I gotta get into the tank while reducing to a 3/4. I figure 3/4" NPT to 3/4" threaded bulkhead on the wet side.

On the other side (dry side) I have to move up from 3/4" to 1" as soon as possible. I can run a reducer right into the bulkhead, attached to an elbow, or I can run a 3/4 threaded elbow to a reducer, to 1" pipe. I'm really inexperienced in this area, so any and all information is welcome. And if you could be as specific as possible that would be great.


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Unread 06/23/2017, 08:57 AM   #9
Sk8r
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If it's an underwater join and two hoses are nearly the same size, you can use a hairdryer to slip one hose into the other, sort of like a toothless hose barb. If outside the water, use a hose clamp on the join and it'll still be pretty good. I have one for my ATO that's stepped, plus uses a screw-in locline nipple connector with about a half-inch screw diameter by shoving like a hose barb into the last gauge hose from my pump.


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Unread 06/23/2017, 09:19 AM   #10
der_wille_zur_macht
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Quote:
Originally Posted by October Sky View Post
On the other side (dry side) I have to move up from 3/4" to 1" as soon as possible. I can run a reducer right into the bulkhead, attached to an elbow, or I can run a 3/4 threaded elbow to a reducer, to 1" pipe. I'm really inexperienced in this area, so any and all information is welcome. And if you could be as specific as possible that would be great.
Some times it's best to just go to the plumbing aisle and play until you get the parts that do what you want. You're asking for very specific solutions but
some big box stores carry more parts than others - we may not be able to describe an option that's on the shelf, while there may be others there that we don't think of.

I know at my local Lowes there is a 1" to 3/4" street elbow, so you can glue the 3/4" end directly into your bulkhead (or a threaded adapter if the bulkhead is threaded) and your 1" pipe directly in to the other end.

They also have reducers that are threaded, so you can get one with a 3/4" male thread on one end, and a 1" slip fitting on the other. Then you put a 1" street elbow (or a standard elbow with a short bit of pipe) into the 1" slip end and you've got your connection to 1" pipe.

Or you could use a 3/4" male threaded adapter, a short piece of pipe into a 3/4" elbow, a 1" to 3/4" reducing bushing, and then your 1" pipe.

And so on. There are tons of possibilities.


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Unread 06/23/2017, 08:21 PM   #11
Lsufan
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I don't really see anything wrong with what u plan so it seems like u pretty much got it figured out. Willie is right about the big box stores. U may have a plan on how u want to do it but when u get to the store they don't carry something that u need, so u have to come up with a little different way. A lot of them will carry a 3/4" to 1" 90, so that could be one option. The other would be to use a 1" 90 & install a 1" to 3/4" bushing. That will slide right into the 90, so u would just need a short piece of 3/4" pvc to connect the 90 to the bulkhead. The difference between bushings & reducers is bushings actually slide into a fitting & reducers the pvc actually slides into it on both sides, so bushing take up quite a bit less room being the will slide into a fitting.

In your case I would just stick to the 1" plumbing throughout the system & reduce down at the return bulkhead to 3/4. I like to use slip bulkheads unless I have a reason for threaded. So on your return I would use slip on the outside of the tank & threaded on the flange side for your locline adapter

I will add, I know locally to me that lowes usually has a few more options in the plumbing section then Home Depot.



Last edited by Lsufan; 06/23/2017 at 08:32 PM.
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Unread 06/23/2017, 08:29 PM   #12
Lsufan
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Wrong button, quoted instead of edited


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