Algae Scrubber Basics

[srusso]

Originally Posted by BluScrnOdeth

Picked up this little Guy today.

Nice pickup! I have been wanting a clam for such a long time! I need to get the funds together.

How big is it?

[srusso]

Originally Posted by srusso

Just in case there is still any doubt they SPS corals can be successfully kept in tanks with algae scrubbers. Many documents point to high particulate (including plankton) environments can increase SPS grow several times over.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...843241&page=11

Just realized that this posts link is dead. Here is the working link.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1843241

[salty joe]

Originally Posted by Floyd R Turbo

One thing to note, when you say "doubled up screen" are you thinking of using 2 screens back to back? If so, do not do this. If you rough up one screen enough, it will have all the algae holding power you need. Double screens were attempted and the result was to advise against their use due to many factors.

Care to elaborate?

[Floyd R Turbo]

I think the idea originally was to provide more surface area for the algae to adhere to. I believe it became problematic when it came to cleaning the screen, because there was no reliable method for adhering the screens together, because during cleaning they would separate and then what do you do. Over time I think it was realized that significantly roughing the screen up allow all the anchoring area needed. I can attest to this, I roughed my screen up to the point where it was almost falling apart (at the edges, it actually did) and I have never had a problem with algae detachment

[BluScrnOdeth]

Originally Posted by srusso

Nice pickup! I have been wanting a clam for such a long time! I need to get the funds together.

How big is it?

Its almost 4" wide

[rysher]

done with my scrubber.
however, my problem is the the water not wetting the whole screen.
flow is good, but there are some spots that werent wet.

help for a sol'n is appreciated.

[srusso]

Originally Posted by rysher

done with my scrubber.
however, my problem is the the water not wetting the whole screen.
flow is good, but there are some spots that werent wet.

help for a sol'n is appreciated.

Please post some pictures of your newly build scrubber.
Also if you don't mind include pictures of your tank in it current state. Please do not feel ashamed if it not looking good at the moment, we will soon fix that.

Also is describe your tank and build, tank size, screen size, lights used etc...

Thank you

[srusso]

Here is another SPS tank that uses only an algae scrubber

Originally Posted by From another site

"Skimmerless since the 10th of Jan [2009]. Obviously the ATS was running for a while before I switched the skimmer off. I didn't have an increase in PO4 or NO3 from day 1. Both have been undetectable since then."

[srusso]

More pictures from the same tank...

[srusso]

Here is the scrubber for that tank, I really like this build!

Originally Posted by From another site

Here is the scrubber...

[rysher]

Originally Posted by srusso

Please post some pictures of your newly build scrubber.
Also if you don't mind include pictures of your tank in it current state. Please do not feel ashamed if it not looking good at the moment, we will soon fix that.

Also is describe your tank and build, tank size, screen size, lights used etc...

Thank you

ATS screen size is 8x7
using 23 watts 5000 kelvin (2)
8inch diameter reflector
will take pics soon.

[srusso]

This is a very old post from SantaMonica, it gives a good basic understanding of the SM100 he builds. The spray bar is no longer used in place now is the slit design.

REMEMBER THIS POST WAS FROM BACK IN 2007, BEFORE MOST OF THE BASIC RULES WE USE ON ALGAE SCRUBBERS TODAY.

LOOK AT IS AS A LITTLE HISTORY LESSON.

Originally Posted by SantaMonica

I want to build a cheap and easy turf algea filter, primarily to knock down N and P. After reading about the superior nutrient uptake of turf algea compared to other macros, and after seeing that there are really no units for sale anywhere, I thought I'd see what I could (easily) build myself in about a day. After all, we are just trying to get water to splash across a screen that is lit up. It's shouldn't be this hard to do.

So I came to realize the hardest thing to build would be the device that sloshes the water across the screen; the two prevailing methods were a dump bucket, and a rotating wheel. Both seemed difficult to build. So I thought, those methods are going through a lot of work to get water from point A to point B; why not just let the water fall on it's own (like a waterfall)? Think vertical, instead of horizontal.

So the idea came to just tilt the screen up vertically, and let the water slosh down the screen. Here are the advantages to building a waterfall version of a turf algea filter instead of one of the other versions:


o The turf algea screen can be lit from BOTH SIDES.

o Extremely simple design, about as complex as a HOB overflow (and may even be able to use the same HOB box.)

o There are NO MOVING PARTS at all.

o You get to choose any (low cost) water pump size you wish, and keep it wherever you wish (sump or otherwise).

o You get choose to have the pump on continuously (very easy to do), or pulsed with a timer to simulate waves.

o You don't have to move or turn off the lights to get to and scrape the screen; just slide the screen up out of the box.

o The unit can fit right over (and drain into) a sump if desired.

o There is NO dumping-bucket to build or deal with or wear out.

o There is NO rotating wheel or drum to build or deal with or wear out.

o There is NOTHING to break or clog.

o VERY cheap and EASY to build (main item required: a square acrylic box.)

o Theoretically, would have no no dumping sound to listen to.

o Theoretically, would have no microbubbles.

o Theoretically, would be half the size of a one-sided filter (since it is lit from both sides).



Drawbacks:

Not designed to provide a surge to display tank.
Not designed to douse the screen with high-velocity water (like a dumping bucket would).
May give tint to water; may need carbon to clear it.



"Open" Option:

For an even easier setup that is almost free to build (all that is needed is a pvc tube with holes or a slit in it), you can just not use a box at all, by just placing the screen vertically over your sump, and use your existing sump/fuge lighting (or else add small light on both sides of the screen. This version might not be as effective since the lights may not be as bright (or as near). And you'll need to figure out how to attach the spraybar to the top of the screen. But talk about simple! You don't have to open anything at all in order to scrape the screen!


Anyway, remember that I have not built this yet, since I wanted to get input first. My current tank is about 100 gal, and I seem to remember a recomemdation of once square inch of screen per gal, so that would be 100 square inches for me (10 X 10). Pretty small. But the two big unknowns are: Can it be smaller since it's lit on both sides, and, will it perform less since the water will not be "surging" as much.

Here's the basic cutout of an acrylic box, is open on the top, and closed on the bottom. Note the drain hole on the bottom too:


Add the algea screen; could be held in place with a slot or rail or pegs:


Add the spraybar over the top; a piece of pvc drilled on the bottom, or slit from one side to the other. It fits in the the circular cutouts in the box:


A standard light, placed vertically; this one is facing towards you:


A standard light, placed vertically; this one is facing away from you:


Both lights:


This is how the lights would be attached to the box:

[srusso]

I pioneer of our time, Paul B has been running his own version of an algae scrubber on his tank for quite some time. Did I mention his tank is 40 YEARS OLD!?

Originally Posted by Paul B

Being this is an algae scrubber thread, here is my, no maintenance, no power, no electric, no detritus 5' long algae trough.
Have fun guys.

Here is his thread celebrating his 40 year old tank...

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1976198

[srusso]

Keeping with the theme of history, the Smithsonian Marine Station at Fort Pierce has used algae scrubbers as the "most important life support" of their tanks.

Here is a quote from the link below.
http://www.sms.si.edu/smee/behindthescenes.htm

"Biological Filtration
The most important life support system employed at the exhibit is the one used to control the buildup of inorganic nitrogen and phosphorus, which is excreted by all aquatic animals. In the small controlled environments of our model ecosystems, inorganic nitrogen in the form of ammonia and nitrites can quickly reach toxic levels, while elevated nitrates (which can also reach toxic levels) and phosphates are often associated with algae blooms. In natural waters, these nutrients are maintained at nearly undetectable levels by organisms like seagrasses, phytoplankton, algae, and to a lesser extent certain specialized bacteria.

Over 20 years ago, Smithsonian scientists led by Dr. Walter Adey, developed a biological process which utilizes naturally occurring turf or hair algae to control nitrogen and phosphorus levels. The process called algal turf scrubbers or ATS, takes advantage of the photosynthetic capabilities of algae which need nitrogen and phosphorus to grow. Water from the Harvestingaquarium is constantly circulated over brightly illuminated shallow trays of fast growing turf algae grown in the absence of herbivores. Excess nutrients are removed from the system by routinely harvesting the excess algae, as seen in the photograph to the right. In addition to maintaining naturally low levels of nitrogen and phosphorus, other advantages of using ATS filtration include the night-time production of oxygen and the removal of carbon dioxide. In keeping with the Exhibit's philosophy of modeling nature, ATS are the primary means of removing excess nutrients."

[mrbncal]

Wow. . . Srusso I'm ok with you using my images. I'm flattered that you would think its worthy to post here. I have a few more shots for you guys. In teh first one you can see (maybe) the growth on teh slimer acro from the first pics to now.


This was in March'10 one month after starting the ATS


This was Feb'11 not a great comparison pic, I know

[srusso]

User "fishoutawater" build an algae scrubber a few months back. Here is his orginial post.

Originally Posted by fishoutawater

I just added this very basic ats to an existing 2 tank system 3 weeks ago.


Here are the two tanks, and here is the screen at the two week mark.

I don't have a current pic, but the screen has more green on it this week, and is filling in faster.

[srusso]

Originally Posted by mrbncal

Wow. . . Srusso I'm ok with you using my images. I'm flattered that you would think its worthy to post here. I have a few more shots for you guys. In teh first one you can see (maybe) the growth on teh slimer acro from the first pics to now.

Always a modest one,
Your tank is a great example, thank you for the additional photos!!!

[srusso]

Originally Posted by rysher

ATS screen size is 8x7
using 23 watts 5000 kelvin (2)
8inch diameter reflector
will take pics soon.

Almost missed your post, I assume your using a scrubber lit on both sides?

If that is the case, an 8"x7" screen will host an 56 gallon tank.

The pictures will help us figure out how we can get a more even flow of water on your screen.

[rysher]

Originally Posted by srusso

Almost missed your post, I assume your using a scrubber lit on both sides?

If that is the case, an 8"x7" screen will host an 56 gallon tank.

The pictures will help us figure out how we can get a more even flow of water on your screen.

yes they are lit on both sides.
K, will get pics tomorrow.
my tank is only a 40B, i made it 8x7 suitable for a 56G so i can overfeed and not worry about having a small scrubber

[bucks448]

Below are pictures of my tank and scrubber. I have some cyano going on right now. I've been converting the tank to a reef. I've been working on water params, and now I'm waiting on lighting.

The scrubber's been running for 7 days, and I just added a second 23w light on each side. Previously I was running a single 40w light on each side, so now I have 63w on each side, total 126w. The screen size is 17x9", and another 2" hanging in the water. BTW, the 2" in the water doesn't count towards scrubber size. Oh, my tank is 180g, so screen size and watts are a little under optimal.

One more thing, I really have no idea how much flow is going over the screen. I have about 1500gph returns and the scrubber is plumbed into the full siphon overflow. I have a ball valve at the end of the overflow and another ball valve going to the scrubber, adjusted to keep a full siphon. I could push more water over the scrubber, but right now it's adjusted for minimal noise and max flow. I may have to adjusted it more as it grows.

[srusso]

Great job, keep us updated as things progress. Thank you for posting

[rysher]

srusso,
can you elaborate on the "slits"???

[stormrider27]

Originally Posted by Floyd R Turbo

I think the idea originally was to provide more surface area for the algae to adhere to. I believe it became problematic when it came to cleaning the screen, because there was no reliable method for adhering the screens together, because during cleaning they would separate and then what do you do. Over time I think it was realized that significantly roughing the screen up allow all the anchoring area needed. I can attest to this, I roughed my screen up to the point where it was almost falling apart (at the edges, it actually did) and I have never had a problem with algae detachment

I took some fishing line and a needle and stiched the two sheet together along the edges. It worked great.....

[srusso]

Originally Posted by rysher

srusso,
can you elaborate on the "slits"???

This should help... it was taken from this document which also explains building an ATS.

www.radio-media.com/fish/AlgaeScrubbers.doc

"Construction:

Pipe: A basic algae scrubber starts out with a ¾” (1.88 cm) pvc pipe, with a 1/8” (3mm) slot cut along the length of it (the slot is only on the bottom side; it does not go through to the top side). Mark the slot with a marker, and cut it with a Dremel or similar power tool:



Cutting this slot is actually the only hard part of building an algae scrubber. If you don’t think you can do it, just ask another hobbiest to do it for you; a cabinet maker or model builder could also do it. It will probably take a few tries, so give yourself some time and some extra pipe to get it right. As a last resort, you could try using a drill to make a series of 1/8” holes really close together, and then use a file to open them all up into a slot. "

[srusso]

Same document, here is how they explain creating your screen...

Screen: Next, get a piece of “plastic canvas” (otherwise known as “knitting screen”) at your local sewing or crafts store, or online. Rough it up REALLY good with a “hole saw” from your hardware store:



If you can’t get a hole saw, then scrape a wood-saw blade sideways across the screen in different directions. A rough screen is very important; the amount of filtering a scrubber can do is proportional to how much the screen can hold on to the algae, without the algae being washed away. Spend some time making every part of the screen super rough, like a cactus:



Tilting the hole-saw will help. Make the first pass in one direction, then do another direction. Repeat on the other side. When roughing the edges, go outwards. Be careful on the other side of the screen, since it will rip more easily than the first side. If you do rip a small piece, the screen will still work fine. Do not ever use a non-roughed screen; the algae will fall right off and you will have no filtering. Now slip the screen into the slot, and attach it with zip-ties wrapped around the pipe:



The bottom of the screen should go into the sump water an inch or so, to keep the flow quiet and bubble-free.