AI Hydra Settings Thread

[limavet1]

Originally Posted by limavet1

1,00 x 0,60 x 0,50 (meters) or 300 litres + 100 litres on sumo.

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100 litres on sump.

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[pickle311]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

Upload the file I posted in my last post to your lights. It is a preset for the lights with everything preprogrammed. This is what the schedule looks like.


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I'm in the process of filling my tank with water now and setting up my light. I'm running the Hydra 26 with director.
It's hard to argue with the success people are having with this lighting profile, so I'd be a fool to not start with it.
A couple of questions about the setup though. Reading through your thought process on the dips and peaks in the photo period makes perfect sense.
Did you test the built in feature for cloud cover before manually programming curves to account for it?
I'm curious if it would have a similar affect, seems it would make programming a bit easier for those who don't have the HD versions and can't import the file.

Also, have you or anyone else changed the light spectrum to a touch more on the white end of the scale and had the same success? These settings are a little on the blue side for my personal taste. I'd like to whiten it up a little, but also I obviously don't want to create a condition that it's optimal for the corals.

Tank will be a mixture of SPS, LPS, clams, and a couple softies.

Thanks and thank you for all of the support and help you've provided everyone.
It certainly makes things easier to have this kind of documented success and info when you're taking your first stab at LEDs.

[Hentz]

Originally Posted by limavet1

Running with Orcus setting thread 12AWL for one month. Very happy here.

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Love it bro. What are you using to take the picture? LED's and my iPhone 6 don't get along... The Orange Filter fixes it though. But curious to what you're using.

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by pickle311

I'm in the process of filling my tank with water now and setting up my light. I'm running the Hydra 26 with director.

It's hard to argue with the success people are having with this lighting profile, so I'd be a fool to not start with it.

A couple of questions about the setup though. Reading through your thought process on the dips and peaks in the photo period makes perfect sense.

Did you test the built in feature for cloud cover before manually programming curves to account for it?

I'm curious if it would have a similar affect, seems it would make programming a bit easier for those who don't have the HD versions and can't import the file.



Also, have you or anyone else changed the light spectrum to a touch more on the white end of the scale and had the same success? These settings are a little on the blue side for my personal taste. I'd like to whiten it up a little, but also I obviously don't want to create a condition that it's optimal for the corals.



Tank will be a mixture of SPS, LPS, clams, and a couple softies.



Thanks and thank you for all of the support and help you've provided everyone.

It certainly makes things easier to have this kind of documented success and info when you're taking your first stab at LEDs.

I know if you scroll through the thread, in the past 10 pages or so another reefer adapted my files for use with director and posted them. On your second question about altering the very blue tilt of the schedule the answer is not in my experience. I killed plenty of corals trying to bring the schedule down to the 10-15000k range. I was quite frankly lost and about to give up on led lightning all together until I read the Ecotech/WWC study and adapted their Radion schedule to ai's lights. Wish I had a better answer but I can show you that the schedule still does work on the older lights. Here's a few pics from my 16gallon cube running an original prime! Tank is only been up for 2 months so don't mind the algae.

Almost forgot but no I have do not and will not use the weather feature as someone at AI made the idiotic decision to incorporate lightning strikes. It was like a bad rave in my house when I attempted to use it... Hence the reason why I built in respiration peaks . Also, it takes all the control away from the user and it seemed at times that it would decrease the lighting way too much and then shoot right back up to full power. This is great and fine with actual sunlight but with leds and the directional intensity they produce it gives the corals no time to ramp back up from a "cloud". IMG_1470.jpg


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[limavet1]

Originally Posted by Hentz

Love it bro. What are you using to take the picture? LED's and my iPhone 6 don't get along... The Orange Filter fixes it though. But curious to what you're using.

I'm using just my mobile phone (moto g 5). When you are taking a picture whitout a filter, you need take out a lot of blue led and improve the white. I make this way here. Sorry about my english.

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[Danielkiss]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

The settings I have posted a few times in the past 20 or so pages of the thread are used by many of us here and will do well on a tank that size. I would start out with the 12" profile but you may need to use the 24" profile eventually!


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Thanks for your help Orcus. I'll try it and see how the corals go.

[FullBoreReefer]

Orcus, or anyone for that matter, I've had the original hydras since day 1, I'm talking the ORIGINALS! I also use the apex AWM to control them, has anyone converted setting to that of which an AWM would replicate?

I've had my current setting running for a few years now. Decent growth, colors, etc, but just wondering if I can improve.

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by FullBoreReefer

Orcus, or anyone for that matter, I've had the original hydras since day 1, I'm talking the ORIGINALS! I also use the apex AWM to control them, has anyone converted setting to that of which an AWM would replicate?

I've had my current setting running for a few years now. Decent growth, colors, etc, but just wondering if I can improve.

Unfortunately the diode layout, type and number is so drastically different from the 13 led pucks in the later models that it would be difficult for me to make any tangible recommendations. Hopefully someone else running your lights can be of more assistance.



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[FullBoreReefer]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

Unfortunately the diode layout, type and number is so drastically different from the 13 led pucks in the later models that it would be difficult for me to make any tangible recommendations. Hopefully someone else running your lights can be of more assistance.



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No worries, I've been happy with what I've had running. Just thought if those conversations were out there that I'd give them a shot. I'll keep mine as is as its been good for awhile now.

Thanks for the response.

I almost feel like a pioneer, I remember commenting way back when this thread started, nobody really knew what to try! Page 14 (12/7/2013), WOW time flies!

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by FullBoreReefer

No worries, I've been happy with what I've had running. Just thought if those conversations were out there that I'd give them a shot. I'll keep mine as is as its been good for awhile now.

Thanks for the response.

I almost feel like a pioneer, I remember commenting way back when this thread started, nobody really knew what to try! Page 14 (12/7/2013), WOW time flies!

On the downside we are aging way too fast... On the bright side it's good to know the build quality of AI's products mean my lights will be viable for years to come haha


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[Reeftub]

Orcas Varuna I have gone with the AB+ setting with an adjustment due to I have regular hydra 52. I guess we will see what it brings with the sps I have. Here is what I have
I use 4 T5 also so that's why I drop mid day in percentage or it adds too much par as they run for 4 hrs.

[Reeftub]

I put my big hand in the pic for size reference lol.

[Reeftub]

[Reeftub]

Tanks a little cloudy because I just fed a lot of food

[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by Reeftub

Tanks a little cloudy because I just fed a lot of food

I don't even think words describe your system. Gives me something to strive for! IMG_1485.jpg


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[Orcus Varuna]

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Akco_cmvvLNrgZdidaM1bosnUqv21g

Above is the link to both sps ab+ profiles and a profile for the original prime. I Just wanted to bring these forward in the thread since I have been getting a bunch of pm's asking me for them lol


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[Reeftub]

Originally Posted by Orcus Varuna

I don't even think words describe your system. Gives me something to strive for! Attachment 372242


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Thanks man! Here is my tank with all lights at 100%

[Reeftub]

[oohnoo]

What's the difference between the 12" and 24" files? Is it the tank depth?
Also if anyone want's I adapted the Non-HD Hydra to start at 7:30am as the tank is in my office at work. I may remove some points so total time the lights are on is 10 hours. Currently running it at 50% reduction as my peaks before were only at 55% before. Should I reduce the peaks in all colors as some are at 90% as that seems a lot for a shallow tank. Current tanks is a 15gal. My new tanks is InnovativeMarine 30L which I"ll be running two Hyda's 26's

Save files and chagne extension to .aip

[Mache62]

@reeftub how high are your lights off the water? I an running 4 of the regular hydra52s with a T5 on either side and can't seem to get the sps to color up

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[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by Reeftub

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[Orcus Varuna]

Originally Posted by oohnoo

What's the difference between the 12" and 24" files? Is it the tank depth?
Also if anyone want's I adapted the Non-HD Hydra to start at 7:30am as the tank is in my office at work. I may remove some points so total time the lights are on is 10 hours. Currently running it at 50% reduction as my peaks before were only at 55% before. Should I reduce the peaks in all colors as some are at 90% as that seems a lot for a shallow tank. Current tanks is a 15gal. My new tanks is InnovativeMarine 30L which I"ll be running two Hyda's 26's

Save files and chagne extension to .aip

It's for the height above the water line you are running the lights. The basic premise is for a softie/lps tank you elevate the lights 24" off the water, increase the intensity of the profile and run fewer lights. If your doing a tank full of acros you lower the lights the 10-12" off the water, run more lights and decrease the white channels since it makes acros bleach for some reason.


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[daniel90]

good thread

[Arafas]

Ok, question orcus, do you have anywhere in this thread explaining how much to lower the intensity. I have mine hanging like 10'' AWL. had some yuma and other corals bleaching running 70% acclimation. How much to decrease the whites or how much to increase?

[Reeftub]

Originally Posted by Mache62

@reeftub how high are your lights off the water? I an running 4 of the regular hydra52s with a T5 on either side and can't seem to get the sps to color up

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I'm at 10" off the water. How many T5 are you running with your leds?