Questions about LED power supplies.

GlassReef · 04/23/2017, 02:02 PM

I'm getting together the parts needed to build LED lighting for my 375gal DT. I'll be using 12 Lumia 5.2 chips - each draws 70 watts. I'd like to use 3 Meanwell NES-350-48 - 350w 48v dc power supplies.

My questions:

1. Will each PS suffice for 4 of the Lumia chips (70W each)?

2. Each PS has 3 V+ and V- connectors. What is the best way to connect the PS to 4 chips, seeing as how there are only the 3 connectors (+&-)?

Some say there is no such thing as a dumb question but, I'm sure these are pretty close. I just want to make sure that my new lighting doesn't explode the first time I turn it on.

Thank

hegeh · 04/23/2017, 02:08 PM

You may also want to post this to instructable.com forum. I always seek advise on my electronics stuff there 😆

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Ron Reefman · 04/23/2017, 02:55 PM

Or the DIY forum here at RC.

LostShoopuf · 04/23/2017, 04:26 PM

1) No. 4 Chips would require 4 * 18 VDC = 72 VDC if ran in series. 2 pucks in parallel would require 10.2 amps, with the PS in question only provides 7.3. Best you'll get on a puck that requires 18 VDC per puck is 2 per 48 VDC power supply.
2) pick a V+ and provide it to the 5 channels, through the Mean Well drivers.

oreo57 · 04/23/2017, 10:20 PM

those are just power supplies. You need constant current drivers...
Meanwell elg-c-700b.. One per channel for the 700mA color (3 total)
elg-c-1050b for the 2 1050mA channel (2 total)
Might be able to find 1400-1500mA 66v dc driver..
$30 each and can do 0-10v ,10v pwm or pot dimming

http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/M...5-C1050B.shtml

one example of many..
Each channel is put in series +ch1-..+ch1-...+ch1-...+ch1-.. on one driver
Voltage adds in series..
Cost is about the same doing it correctly..

theatrus · 04/23/2017, 11:20 PM

Just slapping a power supply to some LEDs will produce some expensive paperweights pretty fast.

As Oreo57 said, you need constant current power supplies, sometimes sold as "LED power supplies". Meanwell has a whole lineup.

GlassReef · 04/24/2017, 07:43 AM

Thanks for all the input!

bblumberg · 04/24/2017, 10:18 AM

The Lumia 5.2 looks to be a 5-channel chip that requires 18v on several channels. This limits your possibilities somewhat.

Your main choices are to run each channel in series with a high voltage power supply (probably multiple), or use a lower voltage power supply and Meanwell LDD-H drivers. I tried the former with 3 COB LEDs in series and found very quickly that the chips were junk, not to mention the fact that high voltage DC near to water is inherently dangerous. Possible, but not recommended. Ultimately, I had to go to the next method anyway. I have a pile of left over high voltage Meanwell power supplies now taking up space in my closet.

If you use 5-up boards to control your Lumias, you can use 48v power supplies and run 2 chips on each driver board (each board will use up to 5.1a). This seems expensive (30 x LDD-H, 6x 5-up boards) but if you do it this way, I think you will be happier long run. Buy the 5-up boards from one of the usual LED vendors and the LDDs direct from Mouser or whoever has the best pricing (it will be $2-3 less per LDD than the LED vendors).

Having said that, there are other options to the Lumia 5.2 chip out there. I ended up trashing the "DreamChips" I bought (2/3 were defective) and bought BlueAcro Acrostar 20k blue pro LEDs and am delighted with them. They are not inexpensive, but use Philips Luxeon Z LEDs which give quite a bang for the buck lumens/watt of power. If you go this route, you can put 3 chips on each driver connected in series so you will only need 4 of the 4-up boards which will save you some cash over the Lumias. You need 3.7a (call it 4a) for each board and 16a for the total system. You will probably need multiple power supplies for this (probably 2 x 600W). I like the higher efficiency MeanWell HEP series power supplies but they are costly. Get yourself a Bluefish mini or equivalent controller, a big Makers heat sink and you are in business. This is still going to be a costly system, but much less than a commercial one of similar output.

My last recommendation would be to consider using about half this many LEDs and replace those you removed with T5 retrofits. The more even illumination from the T5s will nicely complement the LEDs. I have my LEDs on a Makers heat sink flanked by 2 x 80 w T5 retrofits on each side on my 150g.

mcgyvr · 04/24/2017, 10:25 AM

And "back to the drawing board" you go..
Make sure you are 100% clear on the concepts to powering LED diodes (before purchasing anything)..
Specifically Forward voltages, required current levels, constant current vs constant voltage,etc...
Most importantly..
Do a drawing (schematic) of how each one would be ran, in series/number of channels,etc... Keeping track of how the forward voltage adds in series,etc..

04/23/2017, 02:02 PM	#1
GlassReef Got Reef Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Weeki Wachee, Florida Posts: 2,501	Questions about LED power supplies. I'm getting together the parts needed to build LED lighting for my 375gal DT. I'll be using 12 Lumia 5.2 chips - each draws 70 watts. I'd like to use 3 Meanwell NES-350-48 - 350w 48v dc power supplies. My questions: 1. Will each PS suffice for 4 of the Lumia chips (70W each)? 2. Each PS has 3 V+ and V- connectors. What is the best way to connect the PS to 4 chips, seeing as how there are only the 3 connectors (+&-)? Some say there is no such thing as a dumb question but, I'm sure these are pretty close. I just want to make sure that my new lighting doesn't explode the first time I turn it on. Thank __________________ Tom No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.

04/23/2017, 02:55 PM	#3
Ron Reefman Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Cape Coral, FL Posts: 10,431	Or the DIY forum here at RC. __________________ The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it. (Neil deGrasse Tyson) Visit my build thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2593017

04/23/2017, 10:20 PM	#5
oreo57 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Posts: 1,793	those are just power supplies. You need constant current drivers... Meanwell elg-c-700b.. One per channel for the 700mA color (3 total) elg-c-1050b for the 2 1050mA channel (2 total) Might be able to find 1400-1500mA 66v dc driver.. $30 each and can do 0-10v ,10v pwm or pot dimming http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/M...5-C1050B.shtml one example of many.. Each channel is put in series +ch1-..+ch1-...+ch1-...+ch1-.. on one driver Voltage adds in series.. Cost is about the same doing it correctly.. Last edited by oreo57; 04/23/2017 at 10:31 PM. Reason: edit

04/23/2017, 11:20 PM	#6
theatrus 100-mile-commuter Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: almost nevada Posts: 4,721	Just slapping a power supply to some LEDs will produce some expensive paperweights pretty fast. As Oreo57 said, you need constant current power supplies, sometimes sold as "LED power supplies". Meanwell has a whole lineup. __________________ Custom electronics purveyor. blueAcro.com Current Tank Info: 90g SPS+mixed reef (10 yrs): LEDBrick LEDs, 40g custom sump, Ca reactor, chiller, Vortech, lots of custom electronics

04/24/2017, 07:43 AM	#7
GlassReef Got Reef Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Weeki Wachee, Florida Posts: 2,501	Thanks for all the input! __________________ Tom No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.

04/23/2017, 02:08 PM	#2
hegeh Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Posts: 223	You may also want to post this to instructable.com forum. I always seek advise on my electronics stuff there 😆 Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

04/23/2017, 04:26 PM	#4
LostShoopuf Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 15	1) No. 4 Chips would require 4 * 18 VDC = 72 VDC if ran in series. 2 pucks in parallel would require 10.2 amps, with the PS in question only provides 7.3. Best you'll get on a puck that requires 18 VDC per puck is 2 per 48 VDC power supply. 2) pick a V+ and provide it to the 5 channels, through the Mean Well drivers.

04/24/2017, 10:18 AM	#8
bblumberg Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Irvine, CA Posts: 606	The Lumia 5.2 looks to be a 5-channel chip that requires 18v on several channels. This limits your possibilities somewhat. Your main choices are to run each channel in series with a high voltage power supply (probably multiple), or use a lower voltage power supply and Meanwell LDD-H drivers. I tried the former with 3 COB LEDs in series and found very quickly that the chips were junk, not to mention the fact that high voltage DC near to water is inherently dangerous. Possible, but not recommended. Ultimately, I had to go to the next method anyway. I have a pile of left over high voltage Meanwell power supplies now taking up space in my closet. If you use 5-up boards to control your Lumias, you can use 48v power supplies and run 2 chips on each driver board (each board will use up to 5.1a). This seems expensive (30 x LDD-H, 6x 5-up boards) but if you do it this way, I think you will be happier long run. Buy the 5-up boards from one of the usual LED vendors and the LDDs direct from Mouser or whoever has the best pricing (it will be $2-3 less per LDD than the LED vendors). Having said that, there are other options to the Lumia 5.2 chip out there. I ended up trashing the "DreamChips" I bought (2/3 were defective) and bought BlueAcro Acrostar 20k blue pro LEDs and am delighted with them. They are not inexpensive, but use Philips Luxeon Z LEDs which give quite a bang for the buck lumens/watt of power. If you go this route, you can put 3 chips on each driver connected in series so you will only need 4 of the 4-up boards which will save you some cash over the Lumias. You need 3.7a (call it 4a) for each board and 16a for the total system. You will probably need multiple power supplies for this (probably 2 x 600W). I like the higher efficiency MeanWell HEP series power supplies but they are costly. Get yourself a Bluefish mini or equivalent controller, a big Makers heat sink and you are in business. This is still going to be a costly system, but much less than a commercial one of similar output. My last recommendation would be to consider using about half this many LEDs and replace those you removed with T5 retrofits. The more even illumination from the T5s will nicely complement the LEDs. I have my LEDs on a Makers heat sink flanked by 2 x 80 w T5 retrofits on each side on my 150g. __________________ Bruce Current Tank Info: 150G mixed reef (6x Blue Acro 20K Pro COB LEDs, 4x 80W T5 supplement), 150g fw discus (T5 lighting), 110G fw Angelfish (DIY LED lighting), 4 x 40 g frag tanks (DIY LED).

04/24/2017, 10:25 AM	#9
mcgyvr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: North Carolina Posts: 20,050	And "back to the drawing board" you go.. Make sure you are 100% clear on the concepts to powering LED diodes (before purchasing anything).. Specifically Forward voltages, required current levels, constant current vs constant voltage,etc... Most importantly.. Do a drawing (schematic) of how each one would be ran, in series/number of channels,etc... Keeping track of how the forward voltage adds in series,etc.. __________________ Who me?