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Old 03/18/2018, 10:42 AM   #1
billaweed
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Carbon dosing for 30 gallon

What would be a good amount of vodka 40% to dose my tank with to get phosphate down. This green hair algae is getting outta control

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Old 03/18/2018, 11:08 AM   #2
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Carbon dosing will bring down nitrates much faster than phosphates. Run some GFO for phosphate removal with little to no impact on nitrates. Use GFO and carbon dose to bring both down.

IMO a 30g system would benefit more from a 15 gallon WC. You'd instantly cut nitrates and phosphates in half.

New system will be plagued with gha for a while is started with new dry base rock. It's leaching phosphates. If this is an existing system you need to know where the nutrients are coming from or the algae will just come back. Most likely from over feeding.


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Old 03/18/2018, 12:24 PM   #3
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big water help... but you can look into vibrant, it'll gets rid of most algae


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Old 03/18/2018, 02:04 PM   #4
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This article gives a conservative dosing schedule:

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...nftt/index.php


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Old 03/18/2018, 03:16 PM   #5
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This article gives a conservative dosing schedule:

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...nftt/index.php
Maybe it would be a good idea to point out that this table was incorrectly scaled by the original authors starting with the 50 gallon column. All columns are correctly scaled in the first two rows, that is, week 1 (Day 1-3) and week 1 (Day 4-7), but afterwards the dosing schedule is smaller compared to the schedule for the 25 gallon column. There is no scientific reason for this “using less ethanol on larger systems”.

The error might not be a big issue because it causes the chart user to underdose their system, but the underdosing likely prevents a fair trial of carbon dosing to be conducted and to reduce nitrate levels.


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Old 03/18/2018, 03:26 PM   #6
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What would be a good amount of vodka 40% to dose my tank with to get phosphate down. This green hair algae is getting outta control
What is your current phosphate level?
What have you done to address the phosphate input into the tank?


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Old 03/18/2018, 04:11 PM   #7
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Maybe it would be a good idea to point out that this table was incorrectly scaled by the original authors starting with the 50 gallon column.
Maybe I should make up a new chart that doesn't have this error. That'd be a good project, in any case.


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Old 03/18/2018, 05:57 PM   #8
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Maybe I should make up a new chart that doesn't have this error. That'd be a good project, in any case.
And a generous deed. Thanks.


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Old 03/19/2018, 06:58 PM   #9
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I only use white distilled vinegar in my 29 gal. at 15ml. per day . Nitrates 0-3 PPM on average and I do use GFO for phosphate control . Maybe a cheaper way for you to try .


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Old 03/21/2018, 06:28 PM   #10
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I forgot to add that I modified my biocube lid and have a hang on eshopps PSK75 and when the cup needs emptying what comes out of it smells like a septic tank !! I mean putrid !


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Old 03/21/2018, 09:06 PM   #11
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I forgot to add that I modified my biocube lid and have a hang on eshopps PSK75 and when the cup needs emptying what comes out of it smells like a septic tank !! I mean putrid !
Ill look into gfo. My phosphates are high but my nitrates are only 10 ppm. Green hair is getting outta control!

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Old 03/22/2018, 04:22 AM   #12
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Ill look into gfo. My phosphates are high but my nitrates are only 10 ppm. Green hair is getting outta control!

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15g water change cuts both in half immediately.


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Old 03/22/2018, 06:34 AM   #13
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15g water change cuts both in half immediately.
yes on such a small tank water changes are just so easy/effective..


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Old 03/22/2018, 07:20 AM   #14
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15g water change cuts both in half immediately.
Ya, unless the phosphates are coming from the water source. Which i still need to test. I get Ro/di water from the LFS, and they dont have algae problems. Wish my LM Blenny would eat this algae!

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Old 03/22/2018, 08:15 AM   #15
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I didn't see where you stated your current phosphate level?
Also did you use pukani rock or check your tank when you started to see if the phosphate could be bound/leaching from your rock?
Also describe your current stocking level in the tank and amount of food..

Phosphate problems are from
1-Overfeeding
2-Leaching from the rock
3-Water source (not nearly as likely as 1 and 2)


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Old 03/22/2018, 11:36 PM   #16
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I agree that live rock appears to be able to leach a lot of phosphate. That can be an annoyance to handle.


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Old 03/23/2018, 07:39 PM   #17
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Lanthanum Chloride can also be used to bring the phosphate levels down pretty quickly .


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Old 03/23/2018, 09:43 PM   #18
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Carbon dosing will bring down nitrates much faster than phosphates. Run some GFO for phosphate removal with little to no impact on nitrates. Use GFO and carbon dose to bring both down.

IMO a 30g system would benefit more from a 15 gallon WC. You'd instantly cut nitrates and phosphates in half.

New system will be plagued with gha for a while is started with new dry base rock. It's leaching phosphates. If this is an existing system you need to know where the nutrients are coming from or the algae will just come back. Most likely from over feeding.
plus one on this. with that size tank a good 30% water change will have as great an effect on parameters as any thing you can add to it at this time.


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Old 03/23/2018, 11:40 PM   #19
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Lanthanum chloride works and is inexpensive, but the dosing produces a precipitate that should removed from the system, so it's a bit more annoying in practice. That said, it works well and it is very inexpensive compared to GFO.


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Old 03/27/2018, 05:55 PM   #20
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So oddly enough, i did notice that one rock in particular is where it started. Its kind of like pumice type looking roxk as well. Its now completely covered and i have a little here and there on a few others.

I bought some phos-guard and put it in the sump as well as reduced my lighting cycle by 2 hrs.

Anyone know how long GHA takes to start dying off after the levels have gone down?

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Old 03/27/2018, 05:59 PM   #21
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Thats the rock!

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Old 03/27/2018, 09:29 PM   #22
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I don't remember how long various people have reported for hair algae die-off. I would give it some number of weeks, at least 2-3, to show much improvement, but that's just a thought.


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Old 03/28/2018, 04:22 AM   #23
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As you observe die off, or the algae significantly thinning and turning white, water change frequency should be increased. The die off will send those DOC back into the water column to be used by the remaining algae. Hence the cycle of die off/growth will never end.


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