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Unread 02/18/2018, 05:26 PM   #101
LobsterOfJustice
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Vermetid Snail ELIMINATION - In tank Treatments

I have the space and some extra equipment, so I went ahead and set up a test tank.

Just a 10g tank with a heater and powerhead. Fluorescent strip light for observation. I put a bunch of spare LR from my sump into the tank which already has vermetids on it. I am going to try to let their population explode for a few weeks before trying any treatments. I figure I can feed them a daily dose of detritus - either siphon some from my frag tank or suck some up with a baster from the sump. I can feed some small particulate food if the detritus isn't cutting it or if I run out.

My thing that I'm personally interested in trying is ground up NLS Ich Shield pellets (containing CP) as I mentioned above... potentially also something like CP bound to a particulate food using Seachem Focus. I already have all of these things, so easy for me to try. There are also some other good options listed on page two that I could move onto. If/when I find something that kills the vermetids, I also have some frags from the frag tank to run a test and see if the corals can withstand whatever treatment as well.


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I remember when zoanthids were called things like "green" and "orange" and not "reverse gorilla nipple."

Current Tank Info: 180g reef with all the bells and whistles

Last edited by LobsterOfJustice; 02/18/2018 at 05:57 PM.
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Unread 02/18/2018, 05:51 PM   #102
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Keep us informed please.


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Unread 03/07/2018, 12:02 AM   #103
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If anyone is interested this is how I am dealing with the phosphates that were left behind by the Chloroquine Phosphate.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2667999


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Unread 03/07/2018, 04:36 AM   #104
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i wish there was an easier way for a full mixed reef.


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Unread 03/11/2018, 11:22 AM   #105
LobsterOfJustice
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Not much to update - I was hoping that a few weeks of daily detritus feedings would make the population in the test tank explode but that doesn't seem to be the case. I guess they were more happy in my main system with a constant supply. So I think I'm going to initiate the first test today. Crush up some NLS ich shield pellets containing CP into a powder and broadcast feed the test tank. I will run some carbon to absorb any CP that leaches into the water column.

I think in my tank, the challenge is that I have a constant food supply. I run mechanical filtration, but I have a lot of fish, a lot of flow, and two diamond gobies, so detritus is getting produced (and remains in suspension) just as fast as its getting filtered out. At any given time I can see plenty of suspended particles floating around the DT. I run 3-5x sump turnover, I would like to run more but once you get to high output DC pumps the cost jumps from a few hundred to a few thousand...

I have considered getting one of those small marineland internal diatom filters and running that inside the DT, maybe for a month or two, to try and polish their food from the water.

I'm also thinking about biological competition options. I don't have any of those small feather duster hitch-hikers in my system because I have two angels and a butterfly that eat them. So maybe adding some competition for food source (suspended detritus) could help as well. Either adding some fresh LR rubble to the sump to increase biodiversity, or a few other kinds of ornamental filter feeders - maybe NPS corals/gorgonians, or even something less common like a filter feeding cucumber or feather starfish. If I have a good enough food supply for a few thousand vermetids, there has to be something else less invasive that would also eat the same thing.


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I remember when zoanthids were called things like "green" and "orange" and not "reverse gorilla nipple."

Current Tank Info: 180g reef with all the bells and whistles
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Unread 03/11/2018, 01:09 PM   #106
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The ground-up NLS ich shield absolutely resulted in a feeding response from the vermetids, and I could see particles get trapped by the nets, reeled in, and consumed... stay tuned.


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If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.

I remember when zoanthids were called things like "green" and "orange" and not "reverse gorilla nipple."

Current Tank Info: 180g reef with all the bells and whistles
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Unread 03/12/2018, 06:50 AM   #107
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do you have micro brittle starfish? the live rock in my last tank was filled with them and they would wave their arms out trying to catch suspended food. might be an option unless the butterfly likes them too.


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Unread 03/12/2018, 07:21 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LobsterOfJustice View Post
The ground-up NLS ich shield absolutely resulted in a feeding response from the vermetids, and I could see particles get trapped by the nets, reeled in, and consumed... stay tuned.
Interesting... I'd still be scared using a non-reef safe medication with it, but could be used to help get the vermetids to ingest another type of medication they would normally be able to avoid by not ingesting too much of it.


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Unread 03/13/2018, 12:26 AM   #109
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I'd be cautious about anything that had CP if you had corals in the system. The medication would have to be ok for the corals to consume as well. Its a tricky subject.
I tried feeding CP laced food for a bit a while back and the fish didn't eat it, they hated it actually. The lps coral didn't react very well.


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Unread 03/13/2018, 09:09 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkeracer619 View Post
I tried feeding CP laced food for a bit a while back and the fish didn't eat it, they hated it actually. The lps coral didn't react very well.
What CP laced food are you referring to? I’ve found that NLS ick shield pellets are quickly eaten by all my fish. It seems that decaying or mushy medicated fish food has a bad taste that the fish recognize.


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Unread 03/15/2018, 12:39 PM   #111
tkeracer619
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Dr G's. Fresh batch.

http://www.drgsmarineaquaculture.com...iparasitic.cfm


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Unread 03/15/2018, 03:32 PM   #112
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Here is a video showing how tangs eat the nls pellets without hesitation. I’ve experienced the same. https://youtu.be/paJXi8IaCP0


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Unread 03/15/2018, 05:20 PM   #113
LobsterOfJustice
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Vermetid Snail ELIMINATION - In tank Treatments

Maybe the fish eat the pellets because there isn’t much CP in them...

After four days of 1x daily feeding of crushed ich shield pellets (vermetids visually confirmed to catch and consume pellet pieces) the vermetids are doing just fine. Along with all other typical LR microfauna (pods, Asterina and micro brittles, aiptasia, etc).


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If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.

I remember when zoanthids were called things like "green" and "orange" and not "reverse gorilla nipple."

Current Tank Info: 180g reef with all the bells and whistles
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Unread 05/14/2018, 07:22 PM   #114
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Any progress ?


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Unread 05/15/2018, 09:15 PM   #115
LobsterOfJustice
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I tried lacing some food with ich shield powder but I wasn’t super careful about it and I think it got into the water so I’m not drawing any conclusions from that test. I needed the QT tanks for other things so the experiments are on pause. I did notice the population declining simply being in another tank, which to me is more evidence that my water is giving them constant food supply and even with daily detritus feeding their population somewhat declined.

I also have treated my DT twice with fenbendazole and the vermetids didn’t miss a beat.


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If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.

I remember when zoanthids were called things like "green" and "orange" and not "reverse gorilla nipple."

Current Tank Info: 180g reef with all the bells and whistles
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Unread 05/15/2018, 09:26 PM   #116
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I had a few of them and someone told me to try KZ coral snow... yea, I know you can make it yourself for about $5/5 gallons now but I digress. I started dosing it daily and those lil suckers kept spitting up their webs and now I don’t see any webs anymore. May depend on the variety you have but it worked for me.


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Unread 05/16/2018, 07:38 AM   #117
LobsterOfJustice
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Vermetid Snail ELIMINATION - In tank Treatments

Quote:
Originally Posted by five.five-six View Post
I had a few of them and someone told me to try KZ coral snow... yea, I know you can make it yourself for about $5/5 gallons now but I digress. I started dosing it daily and those lil suckers kept spitting up their webs and now I don’t see any webs anymore. May depend on the variety you have but it worked for me.


I tried the DIY option (powdered CaCO3) with no effect. Might be worth trying the brand name though.


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If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.

I remember when zoanthids were called things like "green" and "orange" and not "reverse gorilla nipple."

Current Tank Info: 180g reef with all the bells and whistles
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Unread 05/16/2018, 08:04 AM   #118
five.five-six
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I dosed daily baised on total water volume, not tank volume.



It may depend upon the brand of vermeted snails you have though.


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Originally posted by yellowslayer13:

"I hate that hole"

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Unread 06/06/2018, 05:48 PM   #119
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fenbendazole

Has anyone been successful using fenbendazole against vermited snails? It seems a few folks in others posts found it worked and a few experienced the opposite. I’m wondering if it’s an issue of effective dosing strength? Thoughts?


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Unread 07/21/2018, 12:38 PM   #120
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interesten in update. very close to complete system reboot


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Unread 08/30/2018, 11:48 PM   #121
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Not necessarily completely important to this thread as CP concentration for vermatid snails seems to not matter so much, they're pretty easy to eradicate with cp.

Since I did this, the tank has been vermatid and flatworm (well all worm) free since a few days in. However, crypto got into the tank. Since I don't get any die off now when dosing cp as I haven't added anything to the tank I decided to use CP in the display to treat crypto. After an unsuccessful attempt i've purchased the lab equipment necessary to test for CP concentrations in saltwater.

My first test run gave me surprising results. Without any degradation my concentration should be around 44mg/gal concentration. It's closer to 25mg/gal concentration. No wonder crypto treatment was unsuccessful.


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Last edited by tkeracer619; 08/31/2018 at 12:28 AM.
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Unread 09/01/2018, 06:46 PM   #122
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Not necessarily completely important to this thread as CP concentration for vermatid snails seems to not matter so much, they're pretty easy to eradicate with cp.

Since I did this, the tank has been vermatid and flatworm (well all worm) free since a few days in. However, crypto got into the tank. Since I don't get any die off now when dosing cp as I haven't added anything to the tank I decided to use CP in the display to treat crypto. After an unsuccessful attempt i've purchased the lab equipment necessary to test for CP concentrations in saltwater.

My first test run gave me surprising results. Without any degradation my concentration should be around 44mg/gal concentration. It's closer to 25mg/gal concentration. No wonder crypto treatment was unsuccessful.
Out of curiosity, how much did your CP testing equipment run ya?


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Unread 09/01/2018, 08:16 PM   #123
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Out of curiosity, how much did your CP testing equipment run ya?
After researching a bunch on measuring CP the requirement that they all came up with was a Spectrophotometer that measures absorbance at 343nm. The only reference I could find regarding measuring in aquariums mentioned very expensive equipment like a Hach DR5000 but I don't think that is necessary. I bought a Milton Roy Spectronic 21D and a set of Quartz Cuvettes. Very old equipment but this one was in mint condition.

I talked with Humblefish after reaching out to Reeffever without any response and he showed me some interesting information regarding this. Apparently if the chloroquine contains metabolite the metabolite will also register at 343 so a different process is required to separate the two components to get an accurate measurement of the active component. So it's better than nothing and probably accurate enough for us but I'm going to investigate further.

Beyond that, something very interesting appears to be happening. I can't actually dose enough CP to get the display to 40mg/gal safely. It appears bacteria is breaking down the CP rapidly. The more I dose, the quicker it breaks down. So fast that I am likely to abort dosing the display, last night I dosed the tank up to 27mg/gal and this morning 12 hours later it was down to 17mg/gal. The 40mg/gal sample from new SW I made on Thursday is still testing out at 40mg/gal.

So while CP probably works well on a freshly started QT and certainly nuked my vermatids and flat worms, it's a stretch that this med can be used in a display tank to treat fish. Obviously every system is different but at least in my case the CP is metabolized and removed at a rate faster than I want to dose CP.


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Unread 09/02/2018, 07:04 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkeracer619 View Post
After researching a bunch on measuring CP the requirement that they all came up with was a Spectrophotometer that measures absorbance at 343nm. The only reference I could find regarding measuring in aquariums mentioned very expensive equipment like a Hach DR5000 but I don't think that is necessary. I bought a Milton Roy Spectronic 21D and a set of Quartz Cuvettes. Very old equipment but this one was in mint condition.

I talked with Humblefish after reaching out to Reeffever without any response and he showed me some interesting information regarding this. Apparently if the chloroquine contains metabolite the metabolite will also register at 343 so a different process is required to separate the two components to get an accurate measurement of the active component. So it's better than nothing and probably accurate enough for us but I'm going to investigate further.

Beyond that, something very interesting appears to be happening. I can't actually dose enough CP to get the display to 40mg/gal safely. It appears bacteria is breaking down the CP rapidly. The more I dose, the quicker it breaks down. So fast that I am likely to abort dosing the display, last night I dosed the tank up to 27mg/gal and this morning 12 hours later it was down to 17mg/gal. The 40mg/gal sample from new SW I made on Thursday is still testing out at 40mg/gal.

So while CP probably works well on a freshly started QT and certainly nuked my vermatids and flat worms, it's a stretch that this med can be used in a display tank to treat fish. Obviously every system is different but at least in my case the CP is metabolized and removed at a rate faster than I want to dose CP.
In a fish only tank with substrate you can tell you need more CP when algae starts to grow again. At that point you add another 1/2 dose of CP and the algae will quickly die back off. It only takes about 2-3 weeks for the CP to diminish naturally like that. I experienced this a couple of years ago by helping a friend who owns an LFS. He wasn't happy the the meds he had been using so we dosed CP in 3 of of his fish only storefront systems. As soon as he started that regimen, his fish loss rate diminished to almost nothing. We figured out more CP was needed by noticing the display went from pristine to where algae started growing again. The algae will tell you what you need to know. This dose method is probably more on the safe side but fish deaths post sale are also way down so we know it works. Customers know this store uses CP and they buy with confidence.

I started my a new build last year by treating with CP in my new tank build. I started it out out as a fish only system for the first 90 days. A powder blue tang and a dozen other fish were the first to go into the DT. At 90 days I stopped the treatment and within a month after that I started adding LPS and soft corals without issue. A year later and I haven't had a single disease problem.

The LFS owner also maintains tanks for customers and has dosed it successfully in a few systems now. With an established system, you start with a 1/4 dose to avoid too much die off at once and any resulting ammonia spike.

These are just some real life experiences. Nothing scientific but it works and is safe. Good luck with your setup. I'm sure you will get to where you want to be soon enough.


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Unread 09/02/2018, 11:19 AM   #125
tkeracer619
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In a fish only tank with substrate you can tell you need more CP when algae starts to grow again. At that point you add another 1/2 dose of CP and the algae will quickly die back off. It only takes about 2-3 weeks for the CP to diminish naturally like that. I experienced this a couple of years ago by helping a friend who owns an LFS. He wasn't happy the the meds he had been using so we dosed CP in 3 of of his fish only storefront systems. As soon as he started that regimen, his fish loss rate diminished to almost nothing. We figured out more CP was needed by noticing the display went from pristine to where algae started growing again. The algae will tell you what you need to know. This dose method is probably more on the safe side but fish deaths post sale are also way down so we know it works. Customers know this store uses CP and they buy with confidence.

I started my a new build last year by treating with CP in my new tank build. I started it out out as a fish only system for the first 90 days. A powder blue tang and a dozen other fish were the first to go into the DT. At 90 days I stopped the treatment and within a month after that I started adding LPS and soft corals without issue. A year later and I haven't had a single disease problem.

The LFS owner also maintains tanks for customers and has dosed it successfully in a few systems now. With an established system, you start with a 1/4 dose to avoid too much die off at once and any resulting ammonia spike.

These are just some real life experiences. Nothing scientific but it works and is safe. Good luck with your setup. I'm sure you will get to where you want to be soon enough.
Without knowing the minimum therapeutic dose and when algae returns it's hard to say what works and doesn't work other than things you've experienced. Obviously my test isn't definitive, there are so many variables at play. It is possible that the bacteria that consumes it forms after dosing it and if you went into a system that hadn't been dosed prior it would have been different. You should check out the thread I posted last night that puts CP concentrations against time. For me to keep the 40mg/gal concentration I would have to dose 260 grams of CP over a month just to keep it there if my consumption stayed consistent. The dose to bring the tank up to 40mg/gal is only 26 grams. That is a LOT of cp, not a half dose. Not really willing to test that.


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