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Unread 03/04/2009, 09:44 PM   #101
buccard
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Quote:
Originally posted by aravindk
one more question that I have is, the screws in some of the pictures are pretty close to the edge of the wood. In one of my previous projects, nailing a drywall screw closer to the edge always ended up splitting the wood. How do I avoid this situation?
If you drill the pilot hole and counter sink the hole to match the angle on the head of the screw you shouldnt split the wood as long as you dont overtighten.


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Unread 03/04/2009, 09:46 PM   #102
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Ah, the pilot hole. Yep, that makes sense. thank you.


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Unread 03/04/2009, 09:48 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally posted by Reefer2727
Another question regarding the weight of the stand.

Could anyone ballpark what the weight of this stand built for a standard 75 gallon would be?

I am curious what the difference would be between 2x4's and 2x6's as far as weight goes.

I think I am going to do the top and bottom rails as 2x6's. Im all about over kill. Actually I may do 2x4's along the bottom in order to give me more room for the sump area. An extra 2" I guess.
I could lift the frame for my 90 gallon pretty easily, If I had to guess I would say my frame weighed 40 lbs or so?-maybe 50 lbs...




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Unread 03/04/2009, 09:56 PM   #104
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Looks great Roger.

What do you mean when you say countersink the hole to match the angle on the head of the screw? Do you mean just make it a little wider so the head has room to counter sink? How do you do that cleanly?


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Unread 03/04/2009, 11:46 PM   #105
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Here is a diagram to show you what I am talking about:




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Unread 03/04/2009, 11:55 PM   #106
drummereef
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Quote:
Originally posted by Reefer2727
Looks great Roger.

What do you mean when you say countersink the hole to match the angle on the head of the screw? Do you mean just make it a little wider so the head has room to counter sink? How do you do that cleanly?
Go to your local hardware and pick up a countersink bit for your drill. Every woodworker should have one.


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Unread 03/05/2009, 12:22 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally posted by Reefer2727
Also, what would be a good sized drill bit to use for pilot holes? I guess it matters which screw is used but what would be good fo the average deck screw?

Another absolutely stupid question but whatever....when I am drilling pilot holes, I only drill them through the first piece correct? For example on the bottom frame pieces...I would pilot the orange piece and not the blue end piece??

As you can tell I know nothing!!
Quote:
Originally posted by aravindk
one more question that I have is, the screws in some of the pictures are pretty close to the edge of the wood. In one of my previous projects, nailing a drywall screw closer to the edge always ended up splitting the wood. How do I avoid this situation?
i used one of THESE it drills & countersinks so the screw head is below the surface....perfect for putting an external skin over everything

lowes & home depot have something similar.....in the department w/ the drill bits & such. i like this one better cause it has the adjustable depth guide


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Unread 03/05/2009, 07:42 AM   #108
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Just out of curiosity, you guys are all building "the stand" out of 2x material (2x4, 2x6 etc) then "skinning" it with plywood for a final finish? Why are you doing it that way?


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Unread 03/05/2009, 07:45 AM   #109
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Thanks everyone,

I have added a countersink drill bit to my shopping list. Should make the project much easier.


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Unread 03/05/2009, 08:22 AM   #110
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Hi Maypo,

What is wrong with the way we are doing it? Any suggestions? What part of the process are you referring to? The skinning with plywood?


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Unread 03/05/2009, 10:16 AM   #111
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Quote:
Originally posted by maypo59
Just out of curiosity, you guys are all building "the stand" out of 2x material (2x4, 2x6 etc) then "skinning" it with plywood for a final finish? Why are you doing it that way?
maypo59,

RocketEngineer started this threat to help folks make their own stands. As he mentions at the beginging of the thresd, this is an easy way to make a stand with minimal tools and in my case, skills. Check out the begining of the thresd at

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...5&pagenumber=1

2xs are strong and easy to work with and I think most will agree that the stands are over built but that works well for me. RocketEngineer also recommends which 2x to use based on the size of the tank and the span you want to have. Skinning with plywood makes the stand even more stable and gives you the opportunity to make your stand look like furnature. If you don't want to skin with plywood you can use oak, maple, poplar, etc... boards to trim it out. There are a lot of good pictures of completed stands at

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...=&pagenumber=1

HTH


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Unread 03/05/2009, 10:38 AM   #112
buccard
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Quote:
Originally posted by maypo59
Just out of curiosity, you guys are all building "the stand" out of 2x material (2x4, 2x6 etc) then "skinning" it with plywood for a final finish? Why are you doing it that way?
Simplicity and peace of mind-I did not skin my stand with plywood-I used pine planks of various sizes to finish the stand.

I have read other threads and alternative ways of building the stand but this way worked best with my skill level and tools available-and what I was comfortable tackling.

My stand is definately overbuilt but I would rather it that way. All-n-all its really not that heavy finished-I can lift it by myself but it is a bit awkward.


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Unread 03/05/2009, 10:49 AM   #113
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Hi Buccard,

Instead of skinning you used pine boards...did you attach those boards right to the frame or did you 'skin' it with something first to make it easier to board?


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Unread 03/05/2009, 10:55 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally posted by Reefer2727
Hi Buccard,

Instead of skinning you used pine boards...did you attach those boards right to the frame or did you 'skin' it with something first to make it easier to board?
I attached right to the frame- I used brad/finishing nails and glue. On some of the boards I put wood screws in from the backside. I wanted as few screw-nail holes as possible since I was going to stain the wood and not paint it-if you are going to paint the screws and nials wont show after you fill in the holes with some wood filler and paint over them.

I did not document with alot of detail but I did take a lot of pictures of the building process-maybe some of them will help, Here is my thread:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...5&pagenumber=6


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Unread 03/05/2009, 11:20 AM   #115
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That stand is awesome. Not sure if I could pull that off. Any pics of how your sump ended up? I am trying to figure all that out also.


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Unread 03/05/2009, 11:22 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally posted by Reefer2727
That stand is awesome. Not sure if I could pull that off. Any pics of how your sump ended up? I am trying to figure all that out also.
I am still working on the sump=I will post pics on my thread as I figure out what I am going to use.

I didnt think I could pull that off either so dont cut yourself short-a little time and patience and you never know what you can do.

There are lots of great people on this website willing to help-


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Unread 03/05/2009, 12:22 PM   #117
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You sure are correct about people on this site being great help. It is amazing. Thanks for the ote of confidence on the stand. My problem might be that I lack as far as the finishing tools are concerned. Well see. I figured I would just skin it with plywood, but I think I may try putting in some nice boards. A little pricier but worth it in the long run.

I will see how the frames goes and I may ask for you some questions after that. I like the look of that power strip. The thought of getting rid of the multiple power bar setup if certainly enticing.


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Unread 03/05/2009, 03:12 PM   #118
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All engineers... I am desperate for some feedback on my fix for making the depth too deep. (Forgot to subtract 3" when making my cut sheet... I think my subconscious wanted more room for equipment to buy! ) See my posts a page back for more detail. The stand is for a standard 125 reef ready 72.5" x 18.5".

I have gone ahead and applied my solution and have the stand ready for initial paint. Please let me know if this seems acceptable to you all.

If not for that snafu, the stand went together very easily.

View from outside...


View from inside...


Full view...



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Last edited by Misled; 04/12/2018 at 06:43 PM.
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Unread 03/05/2009, 03:21 PM   #119
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I am no engineer but it looks good to me-is your plumbing going to clear the frame?


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Unread 03/05/2009, 03:32 PM   #120
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With this 're-design' I have no choice but to put the doubled up part in the front. I think once skinned out, it will look nice though.


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Unread 03/05/2009, 03:46 PM   #121
Reefer2727
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Looks good to me MVlk,

What are your skinning plans? Plywood or boards?


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Unread 03/05/2009, 07:13 PM   #122
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All, great and easy to design here. I'll be building a stand for a 72" x 24" x 30" tank with 2x8 and was wondering did all of you include an additional space? I just want the stand to be 30" for easy access. Example.

Stand = 74" x 26" x 34"
Tank = 72" x 24" x 30"

or should it be:

Stand = 72" x 24" x 34"
Tank = 72" x 24" x 30"


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Unread 03/05/2009, 07:22 PM   #123
buccard
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Quote:
Originally posted by amay121
All, great and easy to design here. I'll be building a stand for a 72" x 24" x 30" tank with 2x8 and was wondering did all of you include an additional space? I just want the stand to be 30" for easy access. Example.

Stand = 74" x 26" x 34"
Tank = 72" x 24" x 30"

or should it be:

Stand = 72" x 24" x 34"
Tank = 72" x 24" x 30"
I built the stand about 1/2 inch more than the actual tank dimensions-just to allow for some error-last thing I want is to put the tank up and it not fit properly...


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Unread 03/05/2009, 07:38 PM   #124
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Reefer2727: I bought some birch 1/2" plywood for the sides and will cut some triangles from scrap to put on the back corners. These are all just for extra stability. Although, today it seemed pretty strong as is. I hope to have that all cut and in place along with a bottom tomorrow night so I can paint the innards this weekend.

For the final dressing, I will use poplar planks for the front and dress up the sides. I am thinking of painting the outside a flat/eggshell black currently... will see.

After reading the whole thread, I did not gather that there is a consensus on putting a plywood top on it or not for tanks with rims/braces. I am pretty sure the foam is not recommended, but would a plywood top be OK or recommended?

Anyone have a site to order doors from? I tried www.cabinetdoorsandhardware.com, but they did not have any simple/non-stained doors in the style I want which I could paint up. Looking for a unfinished door like: Door


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Unread 03/05/2009, 07:47 PM   #125
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Try this link:

http://www.advantagecabinetdoors.com/

Plywood is not needed for the top when the tank has a rim/brace-all the weight is placed on the edges-plywood would just add unneeded weight to the stand.


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